Connecting old plug to new trolling motor

[desmobob]

The MinnKota Edge 45lb. trolling motor that came on my Tracker Pro170 is failing after almost seven years of good service.  I had initially thought I would want to replace it right away but I didn't really have any complaints with it, other than sometimes wishing there were more than just five different speed settings on it.

 

I have a new Motorguide X3 Digital 55lb. 12V motor arriving today.  I found one in stock through WalMart's website, strangely enough, and it included next day FedEx delivery!  The product page just said "Free Delivery" so the next-day thing was a nice surprise.  I had e-mailed Bass Pro to find out which power plug would fit the receptacle already in my boat but haven't heard from them.  Since the motor is arriving today, I'd like to install it right away and use the old plug.

 

I noticed the new plugs have crimp-on connectors on the pigtails.  If I'm unable to find those in the only hardware store in my rural town, would soldering be acceptable?  I had always though soldering was the preferred way to connect wiring but have read that the good crimp-on connectors are sometimes preferred.  I have a Weller gun that's big enough and can do a good job.

 

Thanks for any advice,

Bob 

 

 

[Goldstar225]

Soldering will do a fine job and would actually be preferred over butt connectors.  I'm assuming that you will put heat shrink tubing over the bare areas after soldering?

[Way2slow]

Soldering DC connections is always preferred but there is one rule you should always follow when soldering.  Make a good mechanical connection before you solder the connection.  This means when using crimp on connectors, crimp them first, then solder.  If you need to use butt connectors to make the splice, again, crimp them then solder them.

Since I don't even own a Weller gun, I can't say for sure, but I would think it would have a hard time believing it would get a connecter of much size hot enough.   I have a 150 watt iron I have used but when they get much size to them, I just use a BenzOMatic tourch, just don't try using it to heat the wire or put heat directly on where you want to solder.

Also, make sure you put your heat shrink far enough away that it does not get hot enough to shrink while soldering the terminal.

[desmobob]

8 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

Soldering DC connections is always preferred but there is one rule you should always follow when soldering.  Make a good mechanical connection before you solder the connection.  This means when using crimp on connectors, crimp them first, then solder.  If you need to use butt connectors to make the splice, again, crimp them then solder them.

Since I don't even own a Weller gun, I can't say for sure, but I would think it would have a hard time believing it would get a connecter of much size hot enough.   I have a 150 watt iron I have used but when they get much size to them, I just use a BenzOMatic tourch, just don't try using it to heat the wire or put heat directly on where you want to solder.

Also, make sure you put your heat shrink far enough away that it does not get hot enough to shrink while soldering the terminal.

My Weller is 100W/140W but I also prefer to use a propane torch for large gauge wire soldering.

 

I just wanted to double-check with any experienced folks to be sure there wasn't some weird reason not to solder the connection.  The connections will be individually and jointly covered with heat shrink tubing and treated with Corrosion-X.

 

Thanks

[Jig Man]

You might want to do some more researching before you proceed.  There is a different train of thought out there about soldering wires in a boat.

[Jaderose]

21 minutes ago, Jig Man said:

You might want to do some more researching before you proceed.  There is a different train of thought out there about soldering wires in a boat.

Source please.  I would love to hear why the trolling motor plug I changed out probably 10 years ago in my Bass raider and ALL the wiring I did in my Jon boat is wrong.  No offense but there is a "different train of thought" for virtually everything these days.

[TnRiver46]

Soldering Certainly improved my connections in my boat. Also you can buy a new plugs and new receptacles fairly easy

[Jig Man]

52 minutes ago, Jaderose said:

Source please.  I would love to hear why the trolling motor plug I changed out probably 10 years ago in my Bass raider and ALL the wiring I did in my Jon boat is wrong.  No offense but there is a "different train of thought" for virtually everything these days.

There are lots of discussions all you have to do is a google search.  I’m not advocating either way just putting out some information.

[Bankc]

Soldering is better, if you can do it properly.  There are many that will argue for crimping, but the main reason for that is they don't know how to solder properly, and crimping properly is pretty straight forward and easy to do.  So their bad soldering joints fail, and they blame the solder, rather than their soldering skills, or lack there of.  

 

Still, if you're not good with soldering, then crimping is fine.  It's better to crimp than to use a poorly soldered connection.  

[Mjmj]

9 hours ago, Jaderose said:

Source please.  I would love to hear why the trolling motor plug I changed out probably 10 years ago in my Bass raider and ALL the wiring I did in my Jon boat is wrong.  No offense but there is a "different train of thought" for virtually everything these days.

I believe (could be wrong) that he is referring to the crimped vs soldering theory.  Many believe soldering is the best possible way to make a solid connection. That is not how the automobile and aviation industry look at it. Airplanes and automobiles do not soldering wires anymore.  The reason behind this is the vibration can cause a soldered connection to Crack or become brittle. With the new waterproof crimps it offers a more solid connection. Before this turns into a solder vs crimping war, I am just stating what I have read and could care less how anyone connects their wires

[desmobob]

Just now, Mjmj said:

I believe (could be wrong) that he is referring to the crimped vs soldering theory.  Many believe soldering is the best possible way to make a solid connection. That is not how the automobile and aviation industry look at it. Airplanes and automobiles do not soldering wires anymore.  The reason behind this is the vibration can cause a soldered connection to Crack or become brittle. With the new waterproof crimps it offers a more solid connection. Before this turns into a solder vs crimping war, I am just stating what I have read and could care less how anyone connects their wires

 

This is why I asked... I had also read about the aviation industry not using soldered connections.  That says a lot.

 

I bought an expensive crimp tool last year for making up some ham radio stuff.  I had the right jaws for the tool and connectors to do the trolling motor plug, so that's what I used.  

 

It was a royal PITA installing the new Motorguide.  It was impossible to get to the nuts/washers under the mount and I had to cut out a bit of aluminum below the deck so I could get my arm under the bow to get the old mount off and bolt on the new one.  In hindsight, I really think I might have been able to just clamp the new Motorguide into the MinnKota mount that was already on the boat!  Doh!

 

I got out and fished for about six hours to try it out.  All is good.  The momentary foot switch is on the opposite side of the foot pedal than the one that was on my MinnKota.  The switch is also much longer so I think it will allow me to fish barefoot, which I couldn't do with the MinnKota as the length of my size 16 feet had the ball of my bare foot past the small foot switch.  The switch was under the top of my arch so I wasn't able to depress it without shoes or at least sandals on.

 

My only complaint is that the foot control requires a lot more effort to operate than the MinnKota pedal did.  That may be because it's brand new or the cable tension might be a little too tight.  I'll check it out.

 

 

[Way2slow]

When you can make the quality of crimps the aircraft and automotive industry in a factory controlled environment, I might tend to agree.  However, I don't know of many average Joe boat owners that would have or even have access to anything that would even come close.   For the control wires on my RC stuff, I have a specialized crimper I paid $80 for just to crimp small connectors on small wires, because if you solder them, they won't gone into the housing.  

I have a $800 crimper set for large terminals, with specialized jaws for each type and size terminals I used in my electric fork lift repair days.  Not many average guys gonna have something like that.  

 

However, soldering also requires a certain amount of skill and know how also, that most don't have.  If the wire is not bright, clean copper, it's not going to solder properly.  Even on bright clean copper, I always use a rosin flux.  When you strip a wire back, and the copper is black or discolored, it's not going to let the solder bond to it.  A condition very common with cables that have been connected to a lead acid battery or exposed to the elements like trailer lights and boat stuff.  

Now, I will pass on a little trade secret I learned many years ago with the electric fork lifts and replacing battery connectors and ugly wire.  Strip it back, loosen the strands up a little, dip it in muriatic acid for a couple of seconds and the in a water with baking soda solution for a couple of seconds to neutralize the acid.  Wire is clean as a whistle and solders like a breeze. 

With umpteen years experience installing/replacing most any kind of connector on all kind of wire, I will still stick by my method of making a good mechanical connection (in this case, a crimp) and then solder it after crimping for the average person without the specialized crimping tools need to make solid crimps.  That little thing that comes in a terminal kit is not, and the ones you buy for $20 or so ain't gonna do it either.  

[TnRiver46]

I was told to crimp then solder then shrink wrap my boat connections by an auto mechanic buddy of mine. He said it will always be exposed to the elements so corrosion is inevitable 

[MN Fisher]

16 minutes ago, TnRiver46 said:

I was told to crimp then solder then shrink wrap my boat connections by an auto mechanic buddy of mine. He said it will always be exposed to the elements so corrosion is inevitable 

I add Liquid Electrical Tape to that - gets in where the shrink-tube can't cover.

[Way2slow]

Use something like this for your heat shrink tubing.  

https://www.amazon.com/Wirefy-200-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B089D82FLG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Industrial+Heat-Shrink+Tubing&qid=1624227866&s=industrial&sr=1-2-spons&ts_id=700782011&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSkYySUQ3R1c4QVVUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTU5ODIxMkNQSFBORlhZUlRJQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzYwOTY2M0ROSzRINks3V0xKTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Also note: I just used these as an example,  there are many types and sources besides the example I used.  I buy it in about 4' sticks the size and color I want.

 

DO NOT order those cheap Chinese connectors off ebay or else where.  If you do, you definitely have to solder them.  I pulled that stunt and ended up throwing them in the trash.  They are so thin, there's not enough metal in them to make strong crimp.  Just to get out of a bind, I pull the insulator off, crimped and soldered the few I had to have and trashed the rest.   

If you are going to depend on just crimping, make sure you get a good quality connector from a reliable source, NOT ebay.   I usually order mine from Digi-Key or Mouser.  

[MN Fisher]

15 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

Also note: I just used these as an example,  there are many types and sources besides the example I used.  I buy it in about 4' sticks the size and color I want.

Ya - one place I worked we used the adhesive lined tube for connectors that were going to be in humid environments...gotta be careful to not overheat those though. Regular shrink-tube can take a wider variation in temp than the adhesive lined ones can...they shrink fine, but the sealing adhesive can get too hot and become brittle...defeating the sealing qualities.

 

17 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

If you are going to depend on just crimping, make sure you get a good quality connector from a reliable source, NOT ebay.   I usually order mine from Digi-Key or Mouser.  

Add Jameco to that list - those three are the only ones I get electronic components from.