Broken 2x4 on trailer

[Chaz Hickcox]

I have a broken 2x4 on my boat trailer. I know I need to replace it at some point in time, but obviously I would have to do that at the lake. I was thinking that I would just get a 2x4 cut it to size and cover it at home then do the switch at the ramp. Obviously I need the boat off the trailer. My question now is what is a good way of securing the 2x4 without having bolts coming out and messing up my hull?

[ValkyrieRider]

Can't you just sink the bolts a little bit so they won't contact your hull?

[Chaz Hickcox]

Ok so valkrye just proved that I was incoherent in thought.  I don't know why that didn't cross my mind before.  Question answered!

[HPBB]

counter sink

[BLUESKY]

Use bolts that protude through the mounting surface less than 1 & 3/4"also I would use a treated piece of lumber for longivety also some gorilla glue on the treads of the screw.

[Lund Explorer]

While you are at it, think about replacing all of the bunks at the same time.  And make sure you set them at the correct angles so the entire bunk comes into contact with the bottom of the boat.

[TommyBass]

Are they bolts or screws?  All of mine have been screws that screw up from the bottom but do not have enough length to go through the board.  

Counter-Sinking it is an option as well.  You could even put the board on and counter sink the bolt, then carpet over it to be extra safe.  It would be harder to do that way though.

Shouldn't take you long, just dock your boat and get to it!

[tennwalkinghorse]

counter sink

2X

[zrt594]

I had to replace the boards on my trailer and I did it in the driveway with the boat on the trailer.  All you need is a couple of jack stands and a jack to get the boat up.  I just used the tongue jack on the trailer.  Lower the tongue as low as you can, place jack stands or blocks as high as you can get them under the transom, raise the front of the trailer as high as you can and block up the keel.  Then lower the trailer and the boat should be off the trailer enough to roll it out from under it.  This worked quite well on my 14 foot sea doo jet boat weighing ~1800 lbs.  When you are done just reverse the process.

[Jig Man]

I have done one side at a time by putting a 2/6 under the boat and using a hydraulic jack to raise that side off the skids.

[TrackerG]

I was fortunate. We have an overhead crane in our shop at work.I left the boat trailer hooked to truck for stability, hooked hoist to tie-down rings on back of boat, raised ip enough for clearance and replaced both boards and the rollers. I could see the jack stands working.

[farmpond1]

Lag bolts/screws will work but they will be the first thing to rot out after the trailers been dunked in water numerous times.  Just countersink some bolts and cover em with indoor/outdoor carpet.

[smallmouth man]

When I replaced mine I just lifted the boat up with my hi-lift jack. Worked like a charm.

Brian

[txfisherman]

WHen I had to replace mine, I did all of them when I was up on a tournament, I put the boat in the water, fished the tournament, after I weighed in my fish, I went to the truck, got out the socket wrench and removed the bolts from the bottom of the boards on the trailer, I had already cut the pressure treated boards to the length I needed and glued then stapled the edges of the carpet to the board, then when I put the boards to the trailer, I applied Gorilla glue to the threads of the bolts and snugged them up.  They were only one inch bolts, so not long enough to come through the boards.  Once I got them on the trailer, I applied some clear silicon to the heads to seal them, and put a little vaseline on the end of the carpeted bunks to allow the boat to slide on and off the trailer easier.  If you don't apply the vaseline to the dry carpet you boat may not want to slide off easy when you go back to unlaod your boat.  Just the way I did it and it took only about 45 minutes to do all four of my bunks and that included removing and repplacing the rollers on the trailers while I had the oppurtunity.

[Chaz Hickcox]

So I replaced all of the bunk boards on my trailer today.  Broke 2 drill bits and the battery died on my power drill.  Fun.  Overall I just put the boat in the water and had a buddy help me out with all the drilling.  I was going to countersink the bolts and replace the retarded wood screws but the bolts I bought did not fit through the holes on the brakets.  Instead of normal carpeting, I used the  new hard plastic covers instead.  They work well and the boat slides on and off very easy. 

When all was said and done I needed to adjust the bunks and I found a pretty easy way to do it.  I put the boat on the trailer, then I took a 2 1/5 ton floor jack and placed it under the brackets.  Then I jacked up the boat until the bunks were straight.  then I went to the side ones and lifted them until they were maintaining some of the weight.  It was time consuming, but the boat had never sat so sturdy on the trailer since I have owned it. 

[South FLA]

I used the new hard plastic covers instead. They work well and the boat slides on and off very easy.

Be very CAREFUL with your new super slick bunkers!  Its great for sliding off and on easy, but when backing up especially on steep ramps keep your boat winched until in the water.  Seen it to many times where boat comes completely off or partially of trailer with plastic slicks or after silicon spraying bunks. 

[Chaz Hickcox]

Good point, thanks for the heads up.  Most of our slips out here aren't that steep, but I can see where that would be an issue.