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Posted

I've seen the vids by the guy who runs this forum but have some questions. 

 

1. Is a coil just a large twist? I ask because people talk about removing line twists when (I think) they are referring to the coils from memory of spinning reel spool. Are these really the same? I always though of twist like when I watch my lure in the air turn round and round and then undo itself, but it seems different to me than the coils formed from my spinning reel but I am probably wrong, are these things really the same and are they fixed by the same methods (free line boat troll and snap swivel to fixed object pull)?

 

2. With the boat method, if I have a little snap swivel on anyway, will it still work or will be a problem, not suggesting doing it on purpose just if I need to remove if its on my line already?

 

3. Last Question, how long will these methods work? Will coils show up again like 48 hours later after being on my spool or will they be small for a while and how long until they get bad again roughly, just getting an idea how long this works.  

Sorry I need to add a 4th Q, lol its getting long - a larger reel size can reduce line twists I have heard. Is this caused by a larger inner spool? Like how big the diameter is of the inner tube? Asking because I see a 2500 and 3000 shimano but I think the inner tube diameter is the same, one just goes out further w the top lip. If it were the inner tube that makes the difference then this increase would not matter and I would only get the benefit from a 4000. Or is the space between outer line and lip of spool thing?

Posted

I don't think the "line twist" they're referring to is the coils from a line's memory.  I think of it more as this; imagine you have a piece of playdoh and you roll it into a... well, roll.  If you twist the playdoh from both ends, the playdoh will eventually get really thin in the center and break apart.  Some techniques with rod cause the bait to spiral and jerk and spin and snap, which can cause the line to twist like the example.  So, a barrel swivel is used so that the bait can freely spin without the mainline, thus mitigating line twist.

 

Line memory is a part of fishing with fluorocarbon or monofilament.  There are some fixes, like line conditioner, using braid, or using a larger reel, but I don't think it has any effects on line strength.  Someone please correct me on that if it does...

  • Like 1
Posted

As far as memory coils go, KVD Line conditioner is worth its weight in gold. Its just great stuff no matter whose name is on it.   

 

If its line twist you're referring to, I have no help there. I'm sure I get it but I dont really notice much. On spinning I run braid to fluoro leader on everything except my UL and 9 ft crappie rod. Braid to leader to me, is about the best idea for line on spinning, again my opinion. I was a skeptic for years until i tried it and will never go back. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok so memory and twist are different, thats helpful. Will the videos I referenced remove the coil like shape in flourocarbon (the boat troll and on land swivel and fixed object and pull)? Or is this removign twists only?

  • Super User
Posted
23 hours ago, LakeWinni said:

Ok so memory and twist are different, thats helpful. Will the videos I referenced remove the coil like shape in flourocarbon (the boat troll and on land swivel and fixed object and pull)? Or is this removign twists only?

For the most part, I would say no. We can call it memory because the line takes on the shape of the spool. It “remembers” its form and place in the spool for lack of a better description. Twist is just that. The line is twisted about itself. 
 

Let me help you prevent losing more brain cells overthinking this. Memory is a given in mono and fc lines. Period. It doesn’t affect performance of the line. Can it look ugly? To some. Can it be managed? Sure with a line conditioner. But is that necessary? No. I personally don’t condition either line type. 
 

You were pretty much spot on in your first point. I am a shore-angler so I don’t have the luxury of panning out line like that. Instead, I will take the short amount of time to let the lone “relax” and untwist itself letting the line with the lure attached spin back and forth as you described. It works for me, and take it from someone who suffer from this occasionally. Don’t  overthink, lol.  

  • Like 1
Posted

You can remove coils a number of ways. The first one is for mono only and that is to remove the spool and let it soak in warm water. The second works for both mono and fluoro, but I don't recommend it as it weakens the lb. test, IMO. Tie the tag end to a stationary object and walk off 30-40yrds. of line. Grab the line at that point and continue walking away, stretching the line. The mono will spring back to its original length, but the fluoro will stay stretched out. 

Two things you can do for line twist. The first is to remove everything from the end of the line and let 15-30yrds of line trail behind a slow moving boat.  The other is to walk off  a short section of line 15-20yrds) over your lawn, again with everything removed. Close the bail by hand, point the rod tip to the grass and reel slowly. You may need to do this a couple of times.  There are other ways I've heard of that do work, but these are the easiest I know.

Posted
9 hours ago, papajoe222 said:

You can remove coils a number of ways. The first one is for mono only and that is to remove the spool and let it soak in warm water. The second works for both mono and fluoro, but I don't recommend it as it weakens the lb. test, IMO. Tie the tag end to a stationary object and walk off 30-40yrds. of line. Grab the line at that point and continue walking away, stretching the line. The mono will spring back to its original length, but the fluoro will stay stretched out. 

Two things you can do for line twist. The first is to remove everything from the end of the line and let 15-30yrds of line trail behind a slow moving boat.  The other is to walk off  a short section of line 15-20yrds) over your lawn, again with everything removed. Close the bail by hand, point the rod tip to the grass and reel slowly. You may need to do this a couple of times.  There are other ways I've heard of that do work, but these are the easiest I know.

I thought the pull and boat thing were for twists, but they work on memory too?

  • Super User
Posted
4 minutes ago, LakeWinni said:

I thought the pull and boat thing were for twists, but they work on memory too?

The pull thing works on both - BUT - as PapaJoe said, FC will remain 'pulled'...which thins and weakens the line.

 

I personally use the KVD and put up with the remaining memory of FC lines - doesn't affect performance that much and I haven't weakened the line by stretching it.

Posted

Pulling/stretching the line, will NOT remove line twist. If you are a non boater, another method of removing twist is to reel the line between your wet fingers, again with nothing tied on. Reel slowly as the twist will work its way down the line and get worse as you near the end.

You can eliminate some of the line twist by manually closing the bail on your spinning reel prior to reeling, using a quality swivel a foot or more above your soft plastic baits that may spin and allowing your lure to hang a rod length under your rod tip and allowing it to spin every few casts.  

Posted

Coils are just loose loops, they are not that big of a deal. But line twist can really mess everything up. Here is a pic of a bad line twist.

 

 

linetwist.jpg

  • Super User
Posted

To answer your question about leaving a swivel on……no, it will not allow your line to untwist from spinning baits.  I am a finesse fisherman and if my line gets too much “memory” from being on the spool, I change it out.  Line conditioners will work a couple of times but if your line is laying on the water looking like an old phone cord, then for me it’s time to respool.  You will find that the heavier test lines get memory sooner and hold it longer.  Dunking your spool in warm water has never worked for me and only made it worse by actually “setting” the line to the spool.  I never use swivels so about every 3rd outing, I either feed the line out the back of the boat or walk line down my yard at home and reel it back with 2 fingers on the line to eliminate “line twist” from my baits.  

  • Super User
Posted
3 hours ago, papajoe222 said:

Pulling/stretching the line, will NOT remove line twist

It will if you attach the end to a quality small BB swivel. Stretch it then reel it back tight while pointing the rod at the swivel, and holding the line snugly between fingers.

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  • Super User
Posted

I agree with always fish spinning tackle with some form of swivel.  

Since I'm usually with toothy fish in the salt, I use titanium-wire bite traces. with micro swivels. 

6MKJLDr.jpg

  

But simply connecting a micro swivel between your base line and leader accomplishes the same thing.  

 

Line memory loops are a permanent set in the monofilament. 

In spite of the answer trends given on this forum, limper monofilmament lines take worse memory set than stiffer monofilament lines (Tatsu).  

If you dislike line memory enough to not accept any (me), fish braid.  

TS0aWYT.jpg?1

 

If you want to avoid wind knots, cast with good manual bail technique, no matter what line you use.  

  • Super User
Posted
16 hours ago, BassWhole! said:

Memory and twist are two different things. 

Exactly. You're always going to have some twist, it's the nature of spinning reels. The video shows how to resolve that issue. Memory is a double edged sword. Without a little bit of it, line just flies off the spool. Too much and it hinders casting. 

  • Super User
Posted

The most important factor with spinning reels and line management is the line diameter. 2500-3000 spools are very similar regarding outside spool diameter (1.85D). The spool arbor (inside) isn’t a functional casting factor, you never get down beyond half the line capacity bass fishing.

Line coils are memory of the line wrapped along the spool, smaller spool diameter creates more memory with mono/FC line over .010D.

Line twist occurs every rotation of the spinning reel bail roller that wraps the line onto a fixed spool. The only way to let reduce line twist is the line itself must be able to untwist.

Good swivels help but don’t eliminate line twist. 

When you cast a spinning reel the line come off the spool in coils, that is why the 1st guide is large to reduce coils size.

If the line has high memory the coil doesn’t go through the first or 2nd guide smoothly slowing the lure down or stopping it., coils fall off the spool and creates a mess.

Line lubricants help to reduce both memory and guide drag increasing casting performance.

Tom

  • Like 1
Posted

In threads about line memory and using KVD 'line and lure'; I try to put the word out that KVD spray is simply quick detail spray that is found in the automotive section.  16oz of Megiars is $4.97 versus  $19.99 for 16oz of KVD.  You can even step up your game and go with the new quick detailers with nano ceramic tech...which according to them will leave a ceramic coating on your line.  

 

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-53409-Solutions-Coating-16/dp/B07XYPS3PS/ref=asc_df_B07XYPS3PS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385435208149&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5733890240403285281&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026545&hvtargid=pla-840505364135&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=80126920938&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385435208149&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5733890240403285281&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026545&hvtargid=pla-840505364135

 

  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, WRB said:

The most important factor with spinning reels and line management is the line diameter. 2500-3000 spools are very similar regarding outside spool diameter (1.85D). The spool arbor (inside) isn’t a functional casting factor, you never get down beyond half the line capacity bass fishing.

Line coils are memory of the line wrapped along the spool, smaller spool diameter creates more memory with mono/FC line over .010D.

Line twist occurs every rotation of the spinning reel bail roller that wraps the line onto a fixed spool. The only way to let reduce line twist is the line itself must be able to untwist.

Good swivels help but don’t eliminate line twist. 

When you cast a spinning reel the line come off the spool in coils, that is why the 1st guide is large to reduce coils size.

If the line has high memory the coil doesn’t go through the first or 2nd guide smoothly slowing the lure down or stopping it., coils fall off the spool and creates a mess.

Line lubricants help to reduce both memory and guide drag increasing casting performance.

Tom

So for less FC memory, I want a reel with a larger spool arbor right, not outside? Like a 4000 size? 

 

In other words is memory lessened with a bigger arbor (inside) or diameter (outside)? Inside right?

Just now, LakeWinni said:

So for less FC memory, I want a reel with a larger spool arbor right, not outside? Like a 4000 size? 

 

In other words is memory lessened with a bigger arbor (inside) or diameter (outside)? Inside right?

I use 8 - 10 lb FC FYI

  • Super User
Posted

Fluorocarbon doesn't have hardly any memory at all, which is the issue with manageability.  Some fluorocarbon lines are more limp, and easier to manage.  Line conditioner helps prevent it from uncoiling from the spool.  Spool size only changes the size of the coils if memory is there.  

  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, LakeWinni said:

So for less FC memory, I want a reel with a larger spool arbor right, not outside? Like a 4000 size? 

 

In other words is memory lessened with a bigger arbor (inside) or diameter (outside)? Inside right?

I use 8 - 10 lb FC FYI

The larger the spool outside diameter is the less FC tends to  uncoil off the spool. 8 lb is under .010D line, 10 lb is .010+ D marginal for 2500-3000 size spinning reel. 4000-5000 size are big spinning reel, weigh more but can handle line .012+D, common for inshore salt water use. Rods need a larger 1st guide. For these reason bass angler use braid with/leader on 2500-3000 size reels.

Tom

PS, FC doesn’t wet, stays dry, doesn’t lay on the spool unless using a line conditioner to allow water to wet the line.

 

  • Super User
Posted

I have a stockpile of the wide spool reels that I use for braid.  Here is a pic showing the wider spool.  If I had my choice, I would use the wide spool on any line or type over 8lb test.  Bigger spool = less loops.  
 

 

749DA247-8F27-4B7E-8871-8785B9E30FCC.jpeg

  • Super User
Posted

US Reels had a oversized spool design with smaller housing that worked good. Too bad they couldn’t make a profit margin as a domestic manufacture. The other spinning reel mgr’s are missing the opportunity!

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