Trolling motor wire extension

[TriStateBassin106]

I have to extend my minn kota endura max 55 trolling motor wire so it can reach the back of my 10ft boat, I believe the wire the motor came with is 10 gage, what equipment do I need to do this with? 

[MN Fisher]

Extending it that far I'd go with 8 gauge for the run to the battery. Connect with a couple crimp butt connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Conext-Link-BCV8-25-Vinyl-Connector/dp/B01F6SCUVM/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1PAEKARRJBGP4&dchild=1&keywords=8+gauge+butt+connector&qid=1623694397&s=industrial&sprefix=8+guage+butt%2Cindustrial%2C185&sr=1-26

[TriStateBassin106]

4 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

Extending it that far I'd go with 8 gauge for the run to the battery. Connect with a couple crimp butt connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Conext-Link-BCV8-25-Vinyl-Connector/dp/B01F6SCUVM/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1PAEKARRJBGP4&dchild=1&keywords=8+gauge+butt+connector&qid=1623694397&s=industrial&sprefix=8+guage+butt%2Cindustrial%2C185&sr=1-26

Would I have any problems with the wire being a smaller gage than the 10 gage wire the motor comes with? Also would I need a circuit breaker? My battery is 100amps. 

[MN Fisher]

Just now, TriStateBassin106 said:

Would I have any problems with the wire being a smaller gage than the 10 gage wire the motor comes with? Also would I need a circuit breaker? My battery is 100amps. 

Wire gauges work in reverse - the smaller the number, the thicker the wire.

1 gauge is about the diameter of your pinky finger

32 gauge is hair-thin

 

So the 8 gauge is thicker than the 10 gauge of the TM - less resistance, less prone to heating, better carrier of current.

 

I would put at least a fuse in line - 60 amp - if not a circuit breaker.

[TriStateBassin106]

4 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

Wire gauges work in reverse - the smaller the number, the thicker the wire.

1 gauge is about the diameter of your pinky finger

32 gauge is hair-thin

 

So the 8 gauge is thicker than the 10 gauge of the TM - less resistance, less prone to heating, better carrier of current.

 

I would put at least a fuse in line - 60 amp - if not a circuit breaker.

Any recommendations for a fuse? 

[MN Fisher]

3 minutes ago, TriStateBassin106 said:

Any recommendations for a fuse? 

Here's a decent in-line circuit breaker.

https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-Waterproof-Inverter-Trolling-Protection/dp/B077D1C7L3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=60+amp+inline+fuse&qid=1623695426&sr=8-5

[Jim Johnson]

I'd definitely use a circuit breaker, nothing more flustering than getting to the lake and motor not working due to blown fuse.

[TriStateBassin106]

1 hour ago, MN Fisher said:

Here's a decent in-line circuit breaker.

https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-Waterproof-Inverter-Trolling-Protection/dp/B077D1C7L3/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=60+amp+inline+fuse&qid=1623695426&sr=8-5

how I would install the circuit breaker on my wire or wires? I'm guessing connect the copper on both ends? And how does the in line circuit breaker function once connected I see there is a switch for it, I'm not a big electrical guy so this all new to me lol. 

[MN Fisher]

Just now, TriStateBassin106 said:

I'm new to all this so how I would install the circuit breaker on my wire or wires? And how does the circuit breaker function once connected I see there is a switch. 

Here's how I'd do it.

 

Black 8 gauge - terminal ring at battery end, butt connector to TM negative wire

Red 8 gauge - terminal ring at battery, 4"-5" length to circuit breaker, butt connector to TM positive wire.

 

Circuit breaker goes on the positive line, as close to either the power source or the item being powered as possible...in this case, right by the battery.

 

The switch acts like a disconnect - manually operating it cuts power to what ever is connected. If the circuit breaker trips for what ever reason, you can reset it after finding out what the issue is.

[TriStateBassin106]

35 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

Here's how I'd do it.

 

Black 8 gauge - terminal ring at battery end, butt connector to TM negative wire

Red 8 gauge - terminal ring at battery, 4"-5" length to circuit breaker, butt connector to TM positive wire.

 

Circuit breaker goes on the positive line, as close to either the power source or the item being powered as possible...in this case, right by the battery.

 

The switch acts like a disconnect - manually operating it cuts power to what ever is connected. If the circuit breaker trips for what ever reason, you can reset it after finding out what the issue is.

So do I keep the circuit switch on while using the motor? Also I don't have the Minn Kota Battery Box doesn't that already have a cir breaker with it? Would I be better off connecting the 8 gage wires directly to Minn Kota Battery Box? 

[MN Fisher]

Just now, TriStateBassin106 said:

So do I keep the circuit switch on while using the motor? Also I don't have the Minn Kota Battery Box doesn't that already have a breaker with it? Would I be better off connecting the 8 gage wires directly to the Battery Box? 

If you've got the Minnkota Power Center - just ignore the separate circuit breaker and use the one on the box - so direct connect both positive and negative from the box to the TM.

 

Note however - the Power Center is a 50amp breaker and Minnkota recommends a 60amp for the Max-55...so at full thrust, you might trip the breaker on the Power Center as the TM draws right at that 50amp limit.

[TriStateBassin106]

2 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

If you've got the Minnkota Power Center - just ignore the separate circuit breaker and use the one on the box - so direct connect both positive and negative from the box to the TM.

 

Note however - the Power Center is a 50amp breaker and Minnkota recommends a 60amp for the Max-55...so at full thrust, you might trip the breaker on the Power Center as the TM draws right at that 50amp limit.

That's probably what happened with my boat this past weekend, I have a plastic pontoon boat that's prewired and something happened to the fuse inside. My setup was the trolling motor on the bow plugged into the boat and the wires came out the back and hooked up to the battery. 5 minutes in and the motor stopped at max speed. But when I tested the motor wires directly to the battery it started back up. So hopefully the extension to the back of the boat will fix it with the correct circuit breaker. 

[MN Fisher]

3 minutes ago, TriStateBassin106 said:

That's probably what happened with my boat this past weekend, I have a plastic pontoon boat that's prewired and something happened to the fuse inside. My setup was the trolling motor on the bow plugged into the boat and the wires came out the back and hooked up to the battery. 5 minutes in and the motor stopped at max speed. But when I tested the motor wires directly to the battery it started back up. So hopefully the extension to the back of the boat will fix it with the correct circuit breaker. 

Except if you wire to the terminals on the box, you still have the 50amp breaker in the line. Have to put in a 60amp and bypass the box-breaker...wire directly to the battery by running the wires under the lid.

[TriStateBassin106]

22 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

Except if you wire to the terminals on the box, you still have the 50amp breaker in the line. Have to put in a 60amp and bypass the box-breaker...wire directly to the battery by running the wires under the lid.

Yeah so the 60AMP is definitely needed, So when I connect the circuit breaker do I put terminal rings on each side of the wires or do I just strip and put the copper instead the circuit breaker? 

[MN Fisher]

Should come with instructions, but if what I'm seeing in the pic is right....take off the plastic cover on the end and thread it over the wire, loosen the set-screw that you can see under the plastic, insert the bare wire, tighten the set screw, put the plastic cap back on.

 

[TriStateBassin106]

On 6/14/2021 at 2:14 PM, MN Fisher said:

Extending it that far I'd go with 8 gauge for the run to the battery. Connect with a couple crimp butt connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Conext-Link-BCV8-25-Vinyl-Connector/dp/B01F6SCUVM/ref=sr_1_26?crid=1PAEKARRJBGP4&dchild=1&keywords=8+gauge+butt+connector&qid=1623694397&s=industrial&sprefix=8+guage+butt%2Cindustrial%2C185&sr=1-26

What size gauge connectors would you recommend for connecting the motor wires with the thicker 8 gauge wire? 

[MN Fisher]

8 minutes ago, TriStateBassin106 said:

What size gauge connectors would you recommend for connecting the motor wires with the thicker 8 gauge wire? 

I used those exact ones to connect the 8 gauge main run with the 10 gauge TM wires on my setup...just crimp the 10 gauge end REALLY HARD.

[WRB]

50 amp circuit breaker should be good for 55 lb thrust TM...imo.

I would wire the TM with 6* ga marine grade multi strand copper wire. DC current  get restricted by smaller size wire and can over heat.

*8 ga may be OK for a 10’ run.

Tom

[Bankc]

8 gauge would be the minimum under ideal circumstances.  6 gauge would be safer and might give more power to the trolling motor.  8 gauge is good for about 50 amps up to about 10 feet.  If you're having to snake the wire around, giving your about 10-20 feet of wire run, then 6 gauge would be recommended.  

 

And I'd remove that 10 gauge wire that came with the trolling motor and replace it with either the 6 or 8 gauge.  That 10 gauge wire was put there by the factory with the intention that that would be connected directly to the battery.  It's only designed for about up to 5-7 feet of wire run.  Since you're doing a much longer run, you don't want that stretch of 10 gauge wire to defeat the purpose of running the rest of it with 8 or 6.  

 

Now, having said all of that, I don't think running even 10 gauge wire the whole way poses a safety hazard.  It's still a pretty thick wire.  But I imagine that it will limit the performance of your trolling motor, as it won't be able to draw the full power it wants when it wants to.  And the wire might get hot, but I doubt it would get so hot as to start burning or melting anything.  

[TriStateBassin106]

58 minutes ago, Bankc said:

8 gauge would be the minimum under ideal circumstances.  6 gauge would be safer and might give more power to the trolling motor.  8 gauge is good for about 50 amps up to about 10 feet.  If you're having to snake the wire around, giving your about 10-20 feet of wire run, then 6 gauge would be recommended.  

 

And I'd remove that 10 gauge wire that came with the trolling motor and replace it with either the 6 or 8 gauge.  That 10 gauge wire was put there by the factory with the intention that that would be connected directly to the battery.  It's only designed for about up to 5-7 feet of wire run.  Since you're doing a much longer run, you don't want that stretch of 10 gauge wire to defeat the purpose of running the rest of it with 8 or 6.  

 

Now, having said all of that, I don't think running even 10 gauge wire the whole way poses a safety hazard.  It's still a pretty thick wire.  But I imagine that it will limit the performance of your trolling motor, as it won't be able to draw the full power it wants when it wants to.  And the wire might get hot, but I doubt it would get so hot as to start burning or melting anything.  

How would I go about to replace the factory trolling motor wire? Does minn kota sell 6 or 8gauge wire to connect or would I have to buy marine grade wire? 

[MN Fisher]

9 minutes ago, TriStateBassin106 said:

How would I go about to replace the factory trolling motor wire? Does minn kota sell 6 or 8gauge wire to connect or would I have to buy marine grade wire? 

Take the cover off, trace the current 10 gauge to it's attachment points - re-wire with this which should be more than enough to reach TM to battery.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MI5NOCG/?coliid=I1JHY51WZ67OC6&colid=2FGJVI8R82B0P&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

[newbiedmv]

On 6/14/2021 at 4:22 PM, TriStateBassin106 said:

how I would install the circuit breaker on my wire or wires? I'm guessing connect the copper on both ends? And how does the in line circuit breaker function once connected I see there is a switch for it, I'm not a big electrical guy so this all new to me lol. 

You can get minn Kota 60 Amp breakers off the internet. They are nothing like a house breaker. Very easy to use and mount and very well labeled. I have a 80lb thrust@24v I had severve trouble in using fuses. They all were fast blow and you need a slow blow, which a circuit breaker is kinda.

Definitely mount it somewhere were its safe and won't be kicked on bumped. 

[TriStateBassin106]

2 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

Take the cover off, trace the current 10 gauge to it's attachment points - re-wire with this which should be more than enough to reach TM to battery.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MI5NOCG/?coliid=I1JHY51WZ67OC6&colid=2FGJVI8R82B0P&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

So basically instead of crimping the 10 gauge factor wire with lets say a 6 gauge like some other people recommended in the thread it woupd be better to just replace the 10 gauge with a long 6 gauge all together? 

[MN Fisher]

6 minutes ago, TriStateBassin106 said:

So basically instead of crimping the 10 gauge factor wire with lets say a 6 gauge like some other people recommended in the thread it woupd be better to just replace the 10 gauge with a long 6 gauge all together? 

That would be the best route...connections can fail, overheat, etc. By making it a single run you eliminate possible points of failure.

[TriStateBassin106]

2 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

That would be the best route...connections can fail, overheat, etc. By making it a single run you eliminate possible points of failure.

What are the parts used to connect the wires to the motor head? Also would I still need a circuit breaker if it's just directly from the motor to the battery?