New to me boat - questions about how the trailer should be set up.

[Koopster]

Thanks for taking the time to read this!  I did also post on *** forums and got a couple replies.  I am on this site far more so I thought I'd ask here also.

 

I recently picked up a new (old) boat.  I'm not new to boats, just never owned one.  I got an '03 G3 HP180 with a 100hp Yamaha 4-stroke motor.  The boat is in great condition for it's age and runs well.  I've attached a pic of the boat for anyone interested in seeing what $8300 gets you in crazy covid 2021!  It came with a Helix9 DI G3N and I added the Ultrex, which are also impossible to find!  I ended up finding a 112lb 36v with Link and SI, so I switched to 36v.  The Ultrex is a BEAST on that boat! 

 

My question is around the trailer.  I noticed that when I release winch and let out the winching strap (what's the right terminology here?? lol), the nose of the boat will naturally rise about 4-5".  Is this normal?

 

I have a couple options here -

1. I can pull the boat further onto the trailer.  Right now the transom is about even with the bunks.  The eyes on the back of the trailer are just forward of the boat, so the straps are nearly vertical when secured.
2. I can raise the tower at the front of the boat so the front eye of the boat gently rests on the roller.  I'm concerned here with the front roller being too high when loading the boat.  (btw, the winch is on it's own tower, not the same one as the roller).
3. I can look at adjusting the bunks - I haven't looked, but I assume they can be adjusted?  Raise the front or lower the back?  This is likely done when the boat is in the water and done via trial and error? 

 

Thanks for any advice! 

[TnRiver46]

Mine has done that for over a decade. I have thought about moving the winch and rubber stop thing (u bolts) forward but it has never caused trouble so I just ride like it is. I also have to push my boat off the trailer at a few ramps so I kind of like it 

 

I believe the ideal position would be forward a few inches or maybe a foot

[TOXIC]

How does it act when you are trailering?  How is the tire wear? Is the trailer the original one set up from the factory? Does it look like the trailer has been adjusted in the past?  Pics of the trailer with the boat on it would help.  

[Koopster]

2 minutes ago, TOXIC said:

How does it act when you are trailering?  How is the tire wear? Is the trailer the original one set up from the factory? Does it look like the trailer has been adjusted in the past?  Pics of the trailer with the boat on it would help.  

 

Trailering it has been trouble free so far.  

 

Since the whole setup is new to me, I can't comment on tire wear yet - the previous owner did put new tires on it.  The trailer is original and I don't believe it has been adjusted in the past, but I can't know for sure.

 

I can certainly get some pics of the trailer with the boat on it.

 

Thanks!

[TOXIC]

Since it’s an 03 I’m assuming that it’s been through at least few sets of tires.  My concern is that normally if your boat is resting on the bunks properly you shouldn’t have to winch the nose down to the roller or if you do it should be minimal.  To see how your boat sits on the bunks is what a picture should tell.  Is there any abnormal scuffing or wear on the bunks or carpet? Did it do this before you converted to a 36 volt system and added the extra weight of another battery? 

[Koopster]

11 minutes ago, TOXIC said:

Since it’s an 03 I’m assuming that it’s been through at least few sets of tires.  My concern is that normally if your boat is resting on the bunks properly you shouldn’t have to winch the nose down to the roller or if you do it should be minimal.  To see how your boat sits on the bunks is what a picture should tell.  Is there any abnormal scuffing or wear on the bunks or carpet? Did it do this before you converted to a 36 volt system and added the extra weight of another battery? 

 

Understood regarding the pic.. I'll see what I can get tonight after work.

 

No abnormal scuffing or wear on the bunks or carpet that I can tell.

 

I put the trolling motor on immediately, so I don't know how it behaved prior.  I'm guessing that the weight of the Ultrex (heavy!) pretty well counters the weight of the added battery.  I could take the battery out and and see how it impacts the balance.

[TOXIC]

If your boat is sitting flush on the bunks on the rear as you have said, then the battery weight would not matter.  Only if it were hanging over the bunks.  Do the bunk boards look like they have ever been replaced?  next time you are out, snap a few pics of your trailer without the boat on it.  Above and below.  No rush, I do not think you are doing any damage the way it is when you trailer.  Since your rig is relatively light, a warped bunk could push the nose up.  Very few trailers that I have ever seen need wench adjustments unless it was not a factory trailer or a new wench, or had the bunks replaced and not fitted to the boat.  When I replaced my bunks, I left the mounting bolts to the trailer semi loose and loaded the boat on it.  Then slid underneath and tightened them up so that they fit perfect to the hull.  You may be able to loosen yours and do the same thing.    

[galyonj]

1 hour ago, Koopster said:

I ended up finding a 112lb 36v with Link and SI, so I switched to 36v.  The Ultrex is a BEAST on that boat!

 

I don't have an answer to your specific question, but I bet a 36V Ultrex on an 18' hull will run like a cut ape.

 

I keep the 12V All-Terrain that's on my little 15' boat set to 2 on the speed wheel because that's about as fast as I trust myself to let it go without wadding something up. I've already tore one transducer off it (though I maintain that it's only partially my fault, because it was mounted really stupidly).

[Koopster]

23 minutes ago, TOXIC said:

If your boat is sitting flush on the bunks on the rear as you have said, then the battery weight would not matter.  Only if it were hanging over the bunks.  Do the bunk boards look like they have ever been replaced?  next time you are out, snap a few pics of your trailer without the boat on it.  Above and below.  No rush, I do not think you are doing any damage the way it is when you trailer.  Since your rig is relatively light, a warped bunk could push the nose up.  Very few trailers that I have ever seen need wench adjustments unless it was not a factory trailer or a new wench, or had the bunks replaced and not fitted to the boat.  When I replaced my bunks, I left the mounting bolts to the trailer semi loose and loaded the boat on it.  Then slid underneath and tightened them up so that they fit perfect to the hull.  You may be able to loosen yours and do the same thing.    

 

Thanks for this great info!  I'll get a pic as soon as I can and also look at "tuning" the bunks as you suggest as well. 

 

I'm not sure if the bunks have been replaced.. they have an odd looking carpet on them though.  It's not what I believe is typical.  I could be wrong though.

27 minutes ago, galyonj said:

 

I don't have an answer to your specific question, but I bet a 36V Ultrex on an 18' hull will run like a cut ape.

 

I keep the 12V All-Terrain that's on my little 15' boat set to 2 on the speed wheel because that's about as fast as I trust myself to let it go without wadding something up. I've already tore one transducer off it (though I maintain that it's only partially my fault, because it was mounted really stupidly).

 

It's pretty riduculous honestly. lol  We've run the trolling motor all day and when I recharge the batteries, it only takes a couple hours.  

 

The one issue I'm having is that when spot lock wants to correct our position, it tends to use what feels like power 10.  When it decides its drifted too far off of the spot - HANG ON!  I wish it had a setting for max power applied, or at least to ramp it up slowly.  

[galyonj]

6 minutes ago, Koopster said:

The one issue I'm having is that when spot lock wants to correct our position, it tends to use what feels like power 10.  When it decides its drifted too far off of the spot - HANG ON!  I wish it had a setting for max power applied, or at least to ramp it up slowly.  

 

You might can tone that down with the remote if you've got that. I dunno much about the newer ones beyond what I've read online, however, I got curious (and I'm procrastinating), and I did a quick search.

 

When you set it up, did you set a vessel weight or anything like that? Based on what I'm reading, you might can play with those numbers to sandbag the speed the motor chooses when it's repositioning on a spot, or going to a saved spot. Might make it a little less...adventurous.

[InfantryMP]

45 minutes ago, Koopster said:

The one issue I'm having is that when spot lock wants to correct our position, it tends to use what feels like power 10.  When it decides its drifted too far off of the spot - HANG ON!  I wish it had a setting for max power applied, or at least to ramp it up slowly.  

Change the boat scale in the settings on the remote. 

 

The rationale is the TM is rated for thrust vs weight of the boat. 

 

For example: I have a 17ft Triton. The 80lb thrust is good for a 19+ ft boat. I adjusted the scale to -1 which means I am telling the Ultrex that my boat is smaller, so make smaller adjustments based on the weight of my boat. 

 

This will ensure the head of the TM is not going in circles to adjust, and also should make the adjustments smaller and slower for you as it is not working as hard to keep you on that spot. 

 

I hope this helps

34 minutes ago, galyonj said:

 

You might can tone that down with the remote if you've got that. I dunno much about the newer ones beyond what I've read online, however, I got curious (and I'm procrastinating), and I did a quick search.

 

When you set it up, did you set a vessel weight or anything like that? Based on what I'm reading, you might can play with those numbers to sandbag the speed the motor chooses when it's repositioning on a spot, or going to a saved spot. Might make it a little less...adventurous.

It does go off the weight of the boat. In the owners manual it shows the weights vs thrust and what scale you should be using depending on what you have. I think by default it comes at 0.

 

You can only have 2,1,0,-1,-2. The more negative you go= the smaller the weight of the boat. The positive numbers= heavier boat. 

[galyonj]

7 minutes ago, InfantryMP said:

It does go off the weight of the boat. In the owners manual it shows the weights vs thrust and what scale you should be using depending on what you have. I think by default it comes at 0.

 

You can only have 2,1,0,-1,-2. The more negative you go= the smaller the weight of the boat. The positive numbers= heavier boat. 

 

Sweet. My hunch was correct.

[Koopster]

1 hour ago, InfantryMP said:

Change the boat scale in the settings on the remote. 

 

The rationale is the TM is rated for thrust vs weight of the boat. 

 

For example: I have a 17ft Triton. The 80lb thrust is good for a 19+ ft boat. I adjusted the scale to -1 which means I am telling the Ultrex that my boat is smaller, so make smaller adjustments based on the weight of my boat. 

 

This will ensure the head of the TM is not going in circles to adjust, and also should make the adjustments smaller and slower for you as it is not working as hard to keep you on that spot. 

 

I hope this helps

It does go off the weight of the boat. In the owners manual it shows the weights vs thrust and what scale you should be using depending on what you have. I think by default it comes at 0.

 

You can only have 2,1,0,-1,-2. The more negative you go= the smaller the weight of the boat. The positive numbers= heavier boat. 

I'm an idiot.. I even remember reading about this in the manual.  The excitement of using the TM wiped that all out of my brain.

 

This will be VERY VERY helpful!  Thanks!!