tangled spool when fishing wacky rig

[LakeWinni]

After a while of fishing a wacky rig I often get tangled up spools (spinning reel), there's lot's of time with no tension on the line which can form loops/tangles. I don't notice them initially then it becomes a mess, it probably starts when I reel under no tension but that's part of wacky fishing no?

 

Do other people have this issue and how can I solve it or might the problem be something else? Suggestions on technique, best line to use, any ideas appreciated.  

[jimmyjoe]

   Which line are you using and what test is it? Also .... which reel and which size? Line diameter needs to be matched to spool size (within certain limits) or the feed or the retrieve won't work well.   jj

[WRB]

Manually close the bail! Put a liitle tension on the slack line with your fingers by holding the rod in front of the reel.

Tom

[MN Fisher]

3 minutes ago, WRB said:

Manually close the bail! Put a liitle tension on the slack line with your fingers by holding the rod in front of the reel.

Tom

^ This - I use spinning for a number of techniques, including weightless wacky and weightless T-Rig. You need some tension on the line when retrieving in order for the line to lay on the spool properly.

[dodgeguy]

Lift the rod up and take the slack out then manually close the bail.

[a1712]

Whacky Rigs spin like mad twisting your line horribly. Untwist it every now and again. Brian.

[BrianMDTX]

51 minutes ago, dodgeguy said:

Lift the rod up and take the slack out then manually close the bail.

That’s what I do. Religiously. Cast. Let it start to sink. Lift rod up while manually closing bail to take out slack, reel in until line is semi-slack. 
 

Wait for strike...

[Kenny Yi]

Cast, manually close bail, then give slight pull on line to remove slack. 

 

If it truly is a bother, go to braided line with a leader, it's much friendlier for line twist, but that's a whole nother conversation. 

[BaitFinesse]

I forgot egg beater reels did this.  Verify that you line roller is working and that the line is falling into it and not sitting a above or on the bail arm or something.  Seen that before on a house brand reel.  Slack line would allow the line to stand up and get hung up on the bail arm instead of dropping into the line roller and then develop mega line twist.  

[islandbass]

6 hours ago, LakeWinni said:

After a while of fishing a wacky rig I often get tangled up spools (spinning reel), there's lot's of time with no tension on the line which can form loops/tangles.

It’s been mentioned. If you start the retrieve by first adding tension to the lone, you will practically eliminate the potential for loops. As for a twisted line, it’s going to happen over time and faster if you have lures that twist the line. One thing I found that helps when swivels aren’t in use is this. With the lure hanging about 18” (possibly more) from the top, I let the line “rest”. It only takes about 5-10 seconds but if the line is really twisted, you will see the lure spin as a playground swing that a kid twists up to spin around on like a helicopter. Then I continue fishing. 

Lastly, BaitFinesse’s point about the line being in the right spot of the line roller is critical. Even if you have some tension on the line, you run the risk of getting loops on the spool if the line isn’t in the line roller (ie, it could actually be somewhere on the bail).

 

 

 

[Jig Man]

You have been given some sound advice.  I do a lot of Ned rig fishing with 1/16 oz. jig heads so I also have a very light bait.

 

There are a few things that I do that haven’t been mentioned.  When casting a bait like that I allow the rod tip to drop as i feather the line with my fore finger.  I stop the line with my finger and hold it on the spool as I close the bail with the other hand.  Then I slightly lift the rod tip as I take up a little slack.  The line never has a chance to become loose or get looped.

 

I do a lot of fishing on windy days.  This method saves me a lot of grief.

[dodgeguy]

Or go bfs

[Bubba 460]

First off use a quality line, there are many good lines out there and some not so good ones. I have been using Trilene XL for for as long as can remember and I'm so old I can't remember back that far. I have no complaints with it but I stay away from Trilene XT, I have too much trouble with that line for the fishing I do.  To help with loops and tangles don't over fill your spool with to much line.

 

When fishing wacky or any "finesse" style presentation where you are jiggling or pulling the rod tip and releasing while reeling you must learn to mind your P's and Q's. Don't use too heavy a line, 10# test is the max for that light a presentation. Always check your spool after the cast to make sure your line is properly spooling on the reel done by applying a little tension before you start reeling. Do it enough and it will become a natural habit.

 

If you do see a loop down in your spool, loosen your drag way back and hand strip the line off the spool with the bail closed  until you get the loop out. Then tighten the drag back up and re-reel the line back on. This will work like a charm 90% of the time. If you open the bail and try to get a deep loop out by pulling the line off I can just about guarantee you a mess and the loss of about 20 to 30 feet of line.   

[TOXIC]

As has been said there are some methods to reduce line twist but some presentations twist up on the retrieve or are just more prone to twisting.  I am 100% against swivels and snaps except for Carolina rigs so I have to deal with line twist all the time.  First....don’t over fill your spool.  Second ....once you have filled the spool, prop your rod, open the bail and walk out as much line as possible.  Walk back to your rod and pinch the line in front of your spool with your fingers as you wind it back on to the spool.  This insures you are starting with your line properly laying on the spool.  I don’t wacky rig but I can tell you that neds, dropshot, flukes, t-rigged Senkos and a bunch of other spinning rod techniques will spin your line.  When it does happen, I cut the bait off and feed 2 casts worth of line behind the boat and reel it back in the same as my initial spool.  Or if you are bank fishing just walk it out.  It is really compounded if you are overspooled.  

[LakeWinni]

Here's what confuses me a little, you're supposed to let the wacky sink freely, if you have some tension doesn't it like not fall right or?

 

@TOXICWhy against swivels? I was thinking of tying a swivel a foot or so in front of the wacky rig so help with twisting. 

 

I have been using assassin 10lb flouro. Is there a flouro with less memory out there/which one?

[WRB]

I am not a fan of using braid with a leader with 1 exception unweighted wacky rigged Senko/stick baits,

You are right about letting the Senko free fall down through the water column, it’s a deadly presentation.

The problem is using FC line that sinks making strike detection is nearly impossible until the Bass has swallowed the lure resulting in gut hooked bass.

Braid floats on top of the water surface, watch the line for a strike detector.

10 lb FC is marginal on spinning reels 3000 size or smaller do to coil memory. 15# braid with 10# FC leader works good.

Adding a swivel like a small #10 Spro power  requires 3 knots that can fail and can knock out the rod tip ring insert if not careful.

Tom

[TOXIC]

23 hours ago, LakeWinni said:

Here's what confuses me a little, you're supposed to let the wacky sink freely, if you have some tension doesn't it like not fall right or?

 

@TOXICWhy against swivels? I was thinking of tying a swivel a foot or so in front of the wacky rig so help with twisting. 

 

I have been using assassin 10lb flouro. Is there a flouro with less memory out there/which one?

Tom covered it well.  I’m a little more of a purist when it comes to Senkos.  I don’t want anything interfering with the action.  That includes snaps, swivels and braided line.  I only throw mono for most all of the applications I mentioned.  I use fluro for cranking only and never on a spinning rig.  

[LakeWinni]

Thanks all I will use those tips, to clear up on the gear side of it...

 

1. So with a baitcaster there would be some but less spin correct?

 

2. Is the reason larger spinning reels tend to have less line twist because the diameter of the inner spool which line wraps around is greater, or that with the same amount of line there's more space between edge of top of spool and line (its deeper in), or both? guessing both.

 

3. If I use braid to help, where do you all stand on leader length, short so doesnt go through guides or long and knots dont hurt guides much over long term?

[LakeWinni]

Sorry and one last Q: If I step down from 10lb flouro to 8 or 6lb will that help?

[Luke Barnes]

On 5/30/2021 at 2:57 PM, WRB said:

I am not a fan of using braid with a leader with 1 exception unweighted wacky rigged Senko/stick baits,

You are right about letting the Senko free fall down through the water column, it’s a deadly presentation.

The problem is using FC line that sinks making strike detection is nearly impossible until the Bass has swallowed the lure resulting in gut hooked bass.

Braid floats on top of the water surface, watch the line for a strike detector.

10 lb FC is marginal on spinning reels 3000 size or smaller do to coil memory. 15# braid with 10# FC leader works good.

Adding a swivel like a small #10 Spro power  requires 3 knots that can fail and can knock out the rod tip ring insert if not careful.

Tom

Seriously, just take his advice and do this. Its exactly what I do and ive never once gotten a tangle or anything. Braid to fluoro leader was a mystery to me for years until I tried it. Now for finesse I'll never go back.