inline spinners

[BassSteve]

Hey all,

 

I tried my hand recently on making inline spinners. I made two so far, the first one functions perfectly. They are panther martin style without the clevis. My second one does not spin well, I constantly have to reel faster or slower to get it going it seems. The first one had less decorative beads on it, but I don't know why it won't work properly. Please give me your take on why it may not be working well ?

 

Thanks

[Deleted account]

Assuming there is nothing catching between the blade and the wire, the blade isn't bent or the bearing bead is not burred or misshapen, then it's most likely the beads over the blade causing the problem. 

[BassSteve]

26 minutes ago, BassWhole! said:

Assuming there is nothing catching between the blade and the wire, the blade isn't bent or the bearing bead is not burred or misshapen, then it's most likely the beads over the blade causing the problem. 

hmm..I have a smooth gold bead above and below the blade. I can spin it with my finger it seems to spin just fine. Does it make a difference how high up or low the blade is positioned in relation to the body of the spinner?

[Deleted account]

43 minutes ago, BassSteve said:

hmm..I have a smooth gold bead above and below the blade. I can spin it with my finger it seems to spin just fine. Does it make a difference how high up or low the blade is positioned in relation to the body of the spinner?

Yes, for those Panther Martin style spinners, they like the blade up high near the tie. Those facetted beads can catch or disrupt the flow or cause pressure against the blade. I hardly ever put anything above the blade on most spinners. There is a lot of technical information online (pun intended) but a lot of it comes down to trial and error. Oh, and my grandma wants her pull chain back...  

[BassSteve]

8 minutes ago, BassWhole! said:

Yes, for those Panther Martin style spinners, they like the blade up high near the tie. Those facetted beads can catch or disrupt the flow or cause pressure against the blade. I hardly ever put anything above the blade on most spinners. There is a lot of technical information online (pun intended) but a lot of it comes down to trial and error. Oh, and my grandma wants her pull chain back...  

thanks for the good info. Whats the chances I can open it back up and remove the faceted bead that touches the blade and put it back together?

[Deleted account]

28 minutes ago, BassSteve said:

thanks for the good info. Whats the chances I can open it back up and remove the faceted bead that touches the blade and put it back together?

That's going to be hard. Wire is cheap (I use Malin coils). You can also just crack the bead with pliers. I would rule out others things before going that route. Some combinations work better than others. Also, some spinners that have trouble starting up or run intermittently are sometimes what the fish want. I made one once that hardly spun, but kept getting bit when it wobbled like a spoon, go figure.

[islandbass]

It could be the result of that style of blade that doesn’t use a clevis, but I think that is not too likely. 
 

A general good rule of thumb is to have the blade long enough to cover or almost cover the lure body. In yours, it seems only about 50% of the body is covered. 

Perhaps you should build another just like this but make sure the blade covers at least most of the body.  See if that makes a difference. 
 

Also, is the body a real inline spinner body or a bullet weight? While bullet weights have a great profile, and make casting easy and awesome, they tend to be really heavy to the point that the retrieval speed is going to be really high to ensure the blade can make enough lift to keep the lure “afloat” or steady so to speak. Basically, the spinning blade helps to provide lift for lack of a better word. Or else the lure will drop through the water column like a rock. The converse could also be true where the blade shape can produce too much lift that you have to slow down the retrieve, lol. 
 

Unfortunately, the only way to rebuild it is to destroy it but fortunately, wire bodies are cheap. Do not destroy it yet. Let it be your control lure and  build another like it with the constraints I mentioned above. 

 

I am glad to see that you are using a single hook. It is my strong preference vs. a treble. I even make them barbless for easy removal since mine spinner catch trout and they seem to have softer mouths figuratively speaking. If you can find them, try siwash hooks. They are strong by design and some come with an open eye that makes them very easy to install directly to the body or split ring. 
 

It is just my opinion, but the extra wire at the front is a bit too long. But like I said, don’t destroy this lure yet. This extra length is not needed and will actually help the lure to get out of tune because the likelihood of it bending the lure out of shape has increased. 
 

Lastly, I incorporate split rings (when I have them) to attach the hook for two reasons. One, so I can easily replace the hook without having to destroy the lure. Two, I think the split ring helps to reduce leverage the fish might have to thrown the lure. 
 

Really lastly now. Sometimes I will incorporate  a good quality swivel at the front (small) to aid with inherent line twist. It will also allow for switching out different spinners on the fly if you have like a duo lock snap (small) at the end of you line.

 

Glad you got into making inclines. I love them. My first outing with them I nailed so many trout on my own spinners that it felt like I was in fishing heaven. Not only that, it also caught my first bass this season too. Welcome to the club!

 

 

 

[Bdnoble84]

I have found a beed above the blade on both inlines and spinnerbaits can put to much pressure on the clevis inhibiting spinning, i would try removing the bead or whipping up another one without that bead and see what happens

[BassSteve]

2 hours ago, islandbass said:

It could be the result of that style of blade that doesn’t use a clevis, but I think that is not too likely. 
 

A general good rule of thumb is to have the blade long enough to cover or almost cover the lure body. In yours, it seems only about 50% of the body is covered. 

Perhaps you should build another just like this but make sure the blade covers at least most of the body.  See if that makes a difference. 
 

Also, is the body a real inline spinner body or a bullet weight? While bullet weights have a great profile, and make casting easy and awesome, they tend to be really heavy to the point that the retrieval speed is going to be really high to ensure the blade can make enough lift to keep the lure “afloat” or steady so to speak. Basically, the spinning blade helps to provide lift for lack of a better word. Or else the lure will drop through the water column like a rock. The converse could also be true where the blade shape can produce too much lift that you have to slow down the retrieve, lol. 
 

Unfortunately, the only way to rebuild it is to destroy it but fortunately, wire bodies are cheap. Do not destroy it yet. Let it be your control lure and  build another like it with the constraints I mentioned above. 

 

I am glad to see that you are using a single hook. It is my strong preference vs. a treble. I even make them barbless for easy removal since mine spinner catch trout and they seem to have softer mouths figuratively speaking. If you can find them, try siwash hooks. They are strong by design and some come with an open eye that makes them very easy to install directly to the body or split ring. 
 

It is just my opinion, but the extra wire at the front is a bit too long. But like I said, don’t destroy this lure yet. This extra length is not needed and will actually help the lure to get out of tune because the likelihood of it bending the lure out of shape has increased. 
 

Lastly, I incorporate split rings (when I have them) to attach the hook for two reasons. One, so I can easily replace the hook without having to destroy the lure. Two, I think the split ring helps to reduce leverage the fish might have to thrown the lure. 
 

Really lastly now. Sometimes I will incorporate  a good quality swivel at the front (small) to aid with inherent line twist. It will also allow for switching out different spinners on the fly if you have like a duo lock snap (small) at the end of you line.

 

Glad you got into making inclines. I love them. My first outing with them I nailed so many trout on my own spinners that it felt like I was in fishing heaven. Not only that, it also caught my first bass this season too. Welcome to the club!

 

 

 

Thank you for your great advice! Yes I switched to using single siwash hooks last year. On this particular lure I did not have a siwash available but this hook will do the job. I crushed the barb down too. If you keep line pressure there really is no need for a treble, it took me a while to learn that. I snipped off the top of the wire and removed the faceted bead...

 

It turns out it was grinding into the underside of the spoon not allowing it to spin properly! Now I took it for a test run and it works perfectly! My problem now is the loop you tie the line too is only bent in a u shape...there is not enough wire to wrap any remaining around the main wire to secure it. Will it hold, or do you think the first bass i catch will straighten it out and I will lose everything?..??

4 hours ago, BassWhole! said:

Yes, for those Panther Martin style spinners, they like the blade up high near the tie. Those facetted beads can catch or disrupt the flow or cause pressure against the blade. I hardly ever put anything above the blade on most spinners. There is a lot of technical information online (pun intended) but a lot of it comes down to trial and error. Oh, and my grandma wants her pull chain back...  

Thank you very much, the bead was rubbing against the blade just like you thought! ?

31 minutes ago, Bdnoble84 said:

I have found a beed above the blade on both inlines and spinnerbaits can put to much pressure on the clevis inhibiting spinning, i would try removing the bead or whipping up another one without that bead and see what happens

You're right the glass bead was rubbing against the blade. On this particular lure I don't have a clevis, its panther martin style ?✌?

[islandbass]

To answer your question, it should be fine. I wouldn’t rebuild it for the sake of shortening the lure. Just fish it until it gets out of whack enough to warrant remaking it. 
 

I am glad you discovered the joys of the siwash hook over the treble.  It too took me a while to realize that, as I initially though three times, three times the chances. The single hook imho has given me better hook up ratios, more direct hook sets (although many a time the fish set the hook on themselves, lol) and removing the barb allows for easy release. When I get them close enough, I just let the line go slack and the free themselves most of the time.  It’s awesome. 

[BassSteve]

3 minutes ago, islandbass said:

To answer your question, it should be fine. I wouldn’t rebuild it for the sake of shortening the lure. Just fish it until it gets out of whack enough to warrant remaking it. 
 

I am glad you discovered the joys of the siwash hook over the treble.  It too took me a while to realize that, as I initially though three times, three times the chances. The single hook imho has given me better hook up ratios, more direct hook sets (although many a time the fish set the hook on themselves, lol) and removing the barb allows for easy release. When I get them close enough, I just let the line go slack and the free themselves most of the time.  It’s awesome. 

You are dead on about that. Just yesterday I caught a bass that got hooked on the top of its head! ? it didn't put up much of a fight because I'm sure it was painful but he should be ok. I released him asap. I use the gamakatsu siwash and they are very sharp. Release is so simple and they can usually just throw the hook themselves ?✌ 

[islandbass]

3 hours ago, BassSteve said:

You are dead on about that. Just yesterday I caught a bass that got hooked on the top of its head! ? it didn't put up much of a fight because I'm sure it was painful but he should be ok. I released him asap. I use the gamakatsu siwash and they are very sharp. Release is so simple and they can usually just throw the hook themselves ?✌ 

Indeed! Great minds think alike. I also use the gamakatsu siwash hooks.  ?

[islandbass]

On 5/23/2021 at 6:50 AM, BassSteve said:

Hey all,

 

I tried my hand recently on making inline spinners. I made two so far, the first one functions perfectly. They are panther martin style without the clevis. My second one does not spin well, I constantly have to reel faster or slower to get it going it seems. The first one had less decorative beads on it, but I don't know why it won't work properly. Please give me your take on why it may not be working well ?

 

Thanks

Where did you buy the panther blades? Thanks. 

[Fallser]

I had a similar problem when I was trying to make a smaller version of an in-line spinner bait I had picked up at a fishing flea market.  The guy was selling them as a striper lure.  It measured about 8 inches long.  I made up a couple of bass size ones but wasn't getting any blade action.  Turned out I was using too small a blade for the size of the in-line spinner.  I re-did them with a larger blade but still only got intermittent blade action.  I redid them again using a clevis with a Colorado or French blade.  This style uses a single hook.  I'll have to look at a Siwash hook.  I still use barbless treble hooks on my Mepps style in-line spinners. 

16 hours ago, islandbass said:

Where did you buy the panther blades? Thanks.

I got mine from Jann's Netcraft.  They're listed as In-Line Blades.  The blurb below tells you they're used without a clevis.

[MassBass]

I wouldn't get too carried away with barbless hooks and even singles to. Barbless is a good idea in theory, but especially with bigger fish that move more deliberately, that fish can make a turn and then it is off, fish lost. If the spinner bite is hot you will get many taps and bites that don't connect- and that is with trebles. It could get frustrating if you are getting bites without hook ups when you are using a single, might make you think it would be better with a treble. 

[Jigfishn10]

Please delete

Edited December 30, 2021 by Jigfishn10
Just realized that this thread is 7 mos old. I deleted my post

[Jigfishn10]

Please delete 

[islandbass]

3 hours ago, Jigfishn10 said:

Please delete 

Don’t feel so bad. I didn’t realize it either but then I had a little deja cut and low and behold, I went earlier into the thread and I did post and gosh almighty — my response was nearly identical, lol. This is not the first time for me either. Most of the time I catch myself before I hit the submit button, but I didn’t this time, lol. 

4 hours ago, MassBass said:

I wouldn't get too carried away with barbless hooks and even singles to. Barbless is a good idea in theory, but especially with bigger fish that move more deliberately, that fish can make a turn and then it is off, fish lost. If the spinner bite is hot you will get many taps and bites that don't connect- and that is with trebles. It could get frustrating if you are getting bites without hook ups when you are using a single, might make you think it would be better with a treble. 

I hear you. In my state, sometimes barbless is mandatory and if you do a tick poor job crimping the barb down you can still be cited. 
 

My experience between treble vs single, my hook ups seem higher with the single hook vs the treble. I also think in certain positions, the single hook can contribute to a more direct hook set. As for short strikes, they will happen regardless of whether the hook is single or treble. In addition, it is far easier to release a fish caught on a single hook especially if barbless. That said, my preference for single hook over treble hook is with regard to inline spinners and spoons.