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Posted

I found the previous version of the Daiwa SV TW for a decent price and have a few questions.  Is there really much difference in the new version and the older version?  I know the older version had the color accents for gear ratio and did not have the zero adjust spool tension knob like the new version.  Does anyone that has both versions notice any difference in performance between the two versions of the reel?

Posted

Other than the things you mentioned the 2020 version is quite a bit smaller in hand, and lighter.

They are similar, but have a little different feel. Both reels are very smooth, I'd say the 2020 version is a touch more connected feeling when reeling. That doesn't mean better, just different. Casting is about the same to me. I have four 2017, and  three 2020, and love them all. If you ever get into BFS type fishing, you can get shallow spools for both, and they do a great job.

Both are excellent for skipping too.

Posted

I have a bunch of both of them. A slight preference for the new one because it's smaller, but the older one feels more...refined? It's not a very good description, but net net I'm not replacing my old ones, and I can't tell enough difference even with the size to move reels around so that the new ones are on my more frequently fished rods. 

 

If you care a lot about the size get the new one. Otherwise if you can get an older one at a great price just do that. 

Posted

Never mind the "zero adjust knob" it works just the same as the old one . They just made it hard to turn.

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Posted
44 minutes ago, NOC 1 said:

Never mind the "zero adjust knob" it works just the same as the old one . They just made it hard to turn.

It's actually set from the factory and you should never turn it.  I wish they wouldnt have even put a knob there because it confuses a lot of people.

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Posted
1 minute ago, David Austin said:

It's actually set from the factory and you should never turn it.  I wish they wouldnt have even put a knob there because it confuses a lot of people.

Except that different people have different ideas of what's the best way to set the spool tension. How I set mine may not be how you set yours. Making it harder to adjust, IMO, is just a pain.

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Posted

The only difference I've found in schematics is the bearing retainer, which makes the spool bearing sit deeper into the spool, and farther from the pinion bearing.  There's probably differences in the spools themselves, newer G-series v. 105, differences in spring rates in the SV that gives them a different braking curve.  

Daiwa sells their aftermarket spools with different springs for different lure rate ranges.  

uvt5kjY.jpg I7dvi08.jpg

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Posted

before thumb gets educated, the old-fashioned gravity-way of setting spindle cap tension is still a good idea to help prevent impossible backlashes during learning curve. 

After your mind and thumb get it together, no reason to have spool tension for anything but end-play adjustment.  

Something Daiwa did intentionally was made it really tough to get to and adjust the zero adjust spindle cap.  

You do have to adjust it for spool swaps - in fact, you may have to open it wide before you can close the palm cap on a new spool.  

jXbiJNI.jpg

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Posted

My Zero Adjusters needed adjusting; one was toight, the other was loose. I love the difficult to turn knob, but a clicking cc knob accomplishes the same. Not touching the knob is putting a lot of trust in the Thailand factory. 

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Posted (edited)

never mind, figured out we were talking about the same thing...

 

gratuitous decoration since I'm here

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Edited by bulldog1935
Posted
4 hours ago, David Austin said:

It's actually set from the factory and you should never turn it.  I wish they wouldnt have even put a knob there because it confuses a lot of people.

Yes, It has confused you for sure. I can only pass the info. You do as you wish with it.

Posted
5 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

Except that different people have different ideas of what's the best way to set the spool tension. How I set mine may not be how you set yours. Making it harder to adjust, IMO, is just a pain.

Yeah. I think the idea was to remedy the problem they were having with many people who did not know how to set up their reels properly and who would instead use the old gravity drop method of setting the tension or worse yet use the spool tension as a part of their brake adjustments.. Then they would complain about how their Daiwa won't cast very far or is too wild. The tension should be set to match the spool not the bait. Use the brakes to compensate for weight if you have to.

 

So the idea is to hype some "no touch" gimmick in the propaganda and then make the handle hard to turn and set it at the factory.

 

I agree with you that there is no way the factory is going to get it right for everyone or everything especially the people who know what they are doing and know what they want. But, I'd bet that what the factory sends out is a whole lot better than what the clueless would have ended up with had they tried to adjust it themselves.

 

It is probably a good thing that some folks believe the marketing.

  • Like 3
Posted

I own a few of both, and though they fish about the same I find myself preferring the older version a little more. It mostly comes down to the frame size for me. I prefer the slightly larger frame for my hand size. I have no issue using the newer one and enjoy them, but the older model is just a little more comfortable for me. 

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Posted

The main applicable difference between the two honestly is the newer one is about a full ounce lighter and it's smaller in your hand. It's definitely easier to palm and put your hand on the line.

 

The new one does have the zero adjust knob, but if you were to adjust it like an old SV reel, they adjust exactly the same. Back off on the tension spool and tighten it down to the point where the spool just stops clicking and you don't ever have to touch it from there. It literally takes under a second to set on the older one, so I could care less about that feature.

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Posted
6 hours ago, Boomstick said:

The new one does have the zero adjust knob, but if you were to adjust it like an old SV reel, they adjust exactly the same. Back off on the tension spool and tighten it down to the point where the spool just stops clicking and you don't ever have to touch it from there. It literally takes under a second to set on the older one, so I could care less about that feature.

Bingo...This is why I brought it up to the OP. There is no need to consider the "no touch knob" when deciding between the 2 reels since they both do the same thing.

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Posted
1 hour ago, NOC 1 said:

Bingo...This is why I brought it up to the OP. There is no need to consider the "no touch knob" when deciding between the 2 reels since they both do the same thing.

Ah yeah I didn't see your message even, but yeah it's really a marketing ploy for people who don't know how to setup Daiwa reels.

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Posted

Shimano and Daiwa are in a constant war to come up with catchy little tradenames for common technology they can sticky on their reel model pages and boxes.  

 

More stickies = higher price.  

 

ZERO_ADJUSTER.png?v=14769733817439472385

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Posted
8 hours ago, Boomstick said:

tighten it down to the point where the spool just stops clicking

Eh I recall learning it as just a wee little bit of click. Maybe that's why my non-sv spools feel like they are riding wild mid-cast.

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Posted
17 minutes ago, BaitFinesse said:

Any reel can be set up that way.  Almost every reel I have it that way.

Can be, but should they be? I would probably not ever set up a Shimano reel that way and cliterally would never use an Abu Garcia reel that way.

 

1 hour ago, txchaser said:

Eh I recall learning it as just a wee little bit of click. Maybe that's why my non-sv spools feel like they are riding wild mid-cast.

Either where it just begins to click, or just stops to click. It's a super finite difference either way.

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Posted
18 minutes ago, Boomstick said:

I would probably not ever set up a Shimano reel that way and cliterally would never use an Abu Garcia reel that way.

You made me blush, and that aint easy.

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Posted
2 minutes ago, BaitFinesse said:

So is my Black Max 3 and Revo Elite IB

With my Black Max, the knob will fall off before the spool clicks. Same deal with my Pflueger Patriarch. The Shimano Curado K's aren't too far away.

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Posted
2 minutes ago, BaitFinesse said:

You're got getting any side to side movement on the spool before the knob backs all the way out?  Maybe you're just not hearing the "click"?  You should absolutely be able to loosen the knob to the point where the spool have excessive side to side movement and still have the knob on the threads.

Actually I mis remembered one thing. On the Patriarch, I eventually do, but that reel doesn't work great that way. On the Black Max the knob will fall off first.

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Posted
Just now, Boomstick said:

Actually I mis remembered one thing. On the Patriarch, I eventually do, but that reel doesn't work great that way.

Ya - same with my Patriarch - if there's any side-to-side play, the brakes don't function correctly.

 

Maybe it's something to do with the dual-braking system?

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Posted
3 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

Ya - same with my Patriarch - if there's any side-to-side play, the brakes don't function correctly.

 

Maybe it's something to do with the dual-braking system?

That would actually partially disengage the centrifugal brakes I believe. Shimano adds a dial that backs off the centrifugal breaks in a similar manner to their reels.

 

Basically, that one is best adjusted by tying on a bait and adjusting it by controlling the speed the bait hits the ground. I find that on some light baits, there is a maximum fall speed and when I hit that, I back off just a little bit more and that's where it works the best. Same deal with the Shimano reels.

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