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Posted

I have decided I will in fact get a baitcaster soon. I am going to spend the money on something like the Shimano SLX DC or Curado DC. 


I’ve scoured many forum posts about which line to use. Recommendations seem to be all over the place!


I’ve come across lots of posts recommending just straight Big Game 12-15# test. 

I’ve seen lots of recommendations for a hybrid like Yo-Zuri or McCoy Mean Green. 

And of course lots of recommendations for braid to a floro or mono leader depending on the application. 
 

I’ve seen a ton of hate for straight fluorocarbon.

 

I’m not sure I would want to mess with tying leaders at first either, so the braid to leader doesn’t sound too appealing right now. 

 

is there just a good do-it-all line for someone starting out on a baitcaster, in which I want to try all kinds of techniques including top water, Texas rigs, ned rigs, soft jerk baits, and even frogs?

The recommendation doesn’t necessarily have to be the absolute perfect choice for every application, but just looking for most universal and easy to get started with. Thanks. 

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Posted
7 minutes ago, bgaviator said:

in which I want to try all kinds of techniques including top water, Texas rigs, ned rigs, soft jerk baits, and even frogs?

Problem is - a rod that's good for frogs is going to be lowsy for Ned - and visa-versa.

 

Good, middle of the road rod - the MH/F being the 'swiss army knife' of BC rods - will let you do a number of techniques. Jigs, T-Rigs, spinners, chatters, some frogging (long as the weeds aren't dense), even some wacky and shaky (but it's not ideal).

 

In that case, being your first BC - I'd get use to the 'how to cast' with something cheap that if you end up having to cut a massive amount out due to backlash and an epic bird's nest.

 

Berkley Big Game - 15# is where I'd start.

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Posted

Trilene xl 12-14 pd is a good starting point. Then you could branch off to fc.

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Posted
3 minutes ago, Ben77 said:

Trilene xl 12-14 pd is a good starting point. Then you could branch off to fc.

I have seen both Big Game and XL mentioned a lot. What’s the difference between the two and the the advantage one would have over the other in a baitcast setup?  Thanks. 

Posted

I haven't fished big game for years but from  what I remember it's a stiffer line which coli's up. The xl stands for extra limp very smooth casting and sensitive comes off the spool like butter and is very strong. Try it you'll like it.

Posted

Looks like you are able to buy a nice reel which will help tremendously. I started with a black max with big game. After 1 trip I switched to tatula sv reel with 12lb trilene xl. The difference was night and day. Big game was way too stiff for a new caster imo. And as someone else suggested a mh fast rod will cover most of what you are looking to do adequately. If you said your rod budget many of us could offer suggestions. Good luck!

Posted
2 minutes ago, Pogues2300 said:

Looks like you are able to buy a nice reel which will help tremendously. I started with a black max with big game. After 1 trip I switched to tatula sv reel with 12lb trilene xl. The difference was night and day. Big game was way too stiff for a new caster imo. And as someone else suggested a mh fast rod will cover most of what you are looking to do adequately. If you said your rod budget many of us could offer suggestions. Good luck!

I’d be willing to go up to $120 on a rod I think. 

Posted

My tip for anyone starting with baitcasters is to become proficient at untangling birdnests before you hit the lake. And start with monofilament. It is more forgiving and doesn’t kink as bad .

Posted

You are going to backlash and throw line away at first.  No reason to waste money.  Put Big Game on it.  Long term you will like 15 better, but it is easier to learn with 20lb so I'd start there.  Get a spool of both and after you ruin a couple 20's switch up

 

Posted

I’d agree with the all the above

 

Mono go 15-17

Braid I’d go 30-65. Light braid (10-20) isn’t friendly for just starting out

 

Once you get dialed in, you’ll know what you like and don’t 

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Posted
1 hour ago, bgaviator said:

I’ve come across lots of posts recommending just straight Big Game 12-15# test.  

There's your answer right there.

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Posted
22 minutes ago, bgaviator said:

I’d be willing to go up to $120 on a rod I think. 

If you are looking at the SLX you can get the combo for $150. It's a very underrated rod IMHO. I'd put it at about the Dobyns Fury level. 

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Posted

Buy good line. Fishing is meant to be enjoyed and you enjoy fishing more with better line ... heck you might even catch more fish. 

 

Most of these recommendations are assuming youre gonna blow up the reel. I have never had to throw out an entire spool even when I was learning to cast so don't assume you will have to, especially considering the reel you'll be starting with. 

 

If you are that worried about loosing line, strip out 100yrs, put put a piece of electrical tape on the line to make picking out backlashes easier. 

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Posted

I’ve been using 10 lb Big Game or 12 lb YZH on my baitcasters. I don’t punch or fish heavy cover. Once I run out of YZH I’ll likely use Big Game only. It’s brutally strong (even the 10 lb), ties great knots and is cheap enough that changing line costs next to nothing. 

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  • Super User
Posted

My current thoughts on bait casters & rookies.  If you're going to lead off with a Curado or SLX DC, I'd get one of the lower gear ratio ones and focus on throwing reaction baits, like cranks & spinner baits, stuff like that.  I'd use a cheap mono to start, then when I  thought I was past the frequent backlash stage I'd go to a quality co-poly.   I use 15 lb Yozuri on my Curado DC's and it works great for me.  Should you choose to focus more on jigs & soft plastics I'm not really sure that the DC feature is necessary.  Maybe a regular Curado, or the next step up from that, whatever that is this year.  An exception to that rule would be if you're fishing alot of docks.   I don't fish reservoirs that have alot of docks, but friends of mine who do love the Curado DC because they say it makes dock skipping easier.   I can't really speak to that because I don't fish that way, but it makes some sense to me.

I started fishing bait casters with an old red ambassador and I was terrible with it until I acquired a Shimano with magnetic brakes - a Custom X 2000 which I got in the early 80's.   Magnetic brakes made all the difference in control for me.

 

I learned to throw a bait caster, mostly using over head casts, because that is what most of the literature at the time said to do.  Then I saw Jimmy Houston on TV, and his little side arm roll cast made alot of sense to me and was pretty easy for me to learn.   As a mostly bank fisherman at the time, I made many side arm flick casts with spinning gear and transferring that skill to bait casting was just a matter of educating my thumb rather than my fore finger.

 

In hindsight, I think that I would have learned bait casting quicker had I learned how to pitch first.  The back lashes wouldn't have been as major for one thing.  But at the time, I considered a quarter ounce jig with a pork frog a heavy bait, these days I generally throw a heavier bait.

 

So I don't know, good luck learning a new skill - use cheap line to start.  Be mindful that once you start on this trip to learn bait casters, after you learn one, you'll want to own another one, then more as you gain competence with different baits.

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Posted

I would go with 12lb big game for all around versatility. 

 

Be sure to spool it with the line coming off the top of the spool of the line, otherwise the memory will be horrible. 

 

When you cast, do it smoothly. Nice easy fluid movement. 

 

Always keep light contact with your thumb on the spool when casting, it will help with backlashes. 

 

Set spool tension loose-medium and brakes high at first, work your way down as you get more comfortable. 

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Posted
5 hours ago, Fishes in trees said:

My current thoughts on bait casters & rookies.  If you're going to lead off with a Curado or SLX DC, I'd get one of the lower gear ratio ones and focus on throwing reaction baits, like cranks & spinner baits, stuff like that.  I'd use a cheap mono to start, then when I  thought I was past the frequent backlash stage I'd go to a quality co-poly.   I use 15 lb Yozuri on my Curado DC's and it works great for me.  Should you choose to focus more on jigs & soft plastics I'm not really sure that the DC feature is necessary.  Maybe a regular Curado, or the next step up from that, whatever that is this year.  An exception to that rule would be if you're fishing alot of docks.   I don't fish reservoirs that have alot of docks, but friends of mine who do love the Curado DC because they say it makes dock skipping easier.   I can't really speak to that because I don't fish that way, but it makes some sense to me.

I started fishing bait casters with an old red ambassador and I was terrible with it until I acquired a Shimano with magnetic brakes - a Custom X 2000 which I got in the early 80's.   Magnetic brakes made all the difference in control for me.

 

I learned to throw a bait caster, mostly using over head casts, because that is what most of the literature at the time said to do.  Then I saw Jimmy Houston on TV, and his little side arm roll cast made alot of sense to me and was pretty easy for me to learn.   As a mostly bank fisherman at the time, I made many side arm flick casts with spinning gear and transferring that skill to bait casting was just a matter of educating my thumb rather than my fore finger.

 

In hindsight, I think that I would have learned bait casting quicker had I learned how to pitch first.  The back lashes wouldn't have been as major for one thing.  But at the time, I considered a quarter ounce jig with a pork frog a heavy bait, these days I generally throw a heavier bait.

 

So I don't know, good luck learning a new skill - use cheap line to start.  Be mindful that once you start on this trip to learn bait casters, after you learn one, you'll want to own another one, then more as you gain competence with different baits.

Why one of the lower gear ratios?  I was thinking about a 7:1 as it seems like that’s a sweet spot from what I’ve been reading as far as most all-purpose

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Posted
4 hours ago, FishTank said:

12lb Trilene XL or Sufix Elite.  Both good lines that won't break the bank.  

I wouldn't agree with all of the above.  Big Game is a great line (and cheap), but has more memory than some.  The higher the poundage the more the memory.   If you insist on Big Game, learn using 10# which is .012 diameter.  I would suggest one of the above or Sunline Super Natural to learn on.  All 3 are softer lines having less memory yet will get the job done.  I use a lot of 12# on my MH rods.

 

Once confident in your casting ability then go to 15# Big Game if that is what you want to use.  It offers good abrasion resistance along with being strong for its rating.  It does lay better once wet.

 

I'd suggest learning using a roll cast.  It will help smooth out your casting stroke which is very important with a baitcast reel.

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Posted

I'm going to add the first vote for Seaguar fluorcarbon in 12-lb.  

Not the spendy Tatsu, but Red label.  

 

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If you choose the equally cost-effective Yo-Zuri copolymer, I'd recommend 10-lb.  

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Posted

Just start with 15lb braid. You’ll thank yourself when you get used to it. If you fish clear water, add a 3 to 6’ leader. That Seaguar Fluorocarbon, mentioned above, is an awesome leader at 12lbs. Breaks at a much higher test than that. I refuse to pay $37 for a 25 yard spool of the fluoro leader, because that’s how much Dicks had it for last month.

 

The whole trick is don’t cast too hard and don’t throw less than 1/2 oz until you can cast all day on open water without any issues.

Posted

After years away, when I came back to fishing I put 30lb braid on my BC. It was a smart move. Easy to pull the bird nest out, easy to cast with it tightened down while I got my thumb memory back. The bird nests didn’t compromise the line after me pulling. 

Posted

I started with 12lb big game, very forgiving and my pick for beginners.  Then, moved to all diameters of braid and greatly appreciated it's castability and reduced chance of backlashes, but when it did backlash it was terrible to clear.  Now, I have a lot of straight FC and some braid.  I recommend this progression. 

 

practice casting somewhere, maybe a big field, and get used to all the mechanics and backlashes. 

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