Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Before  I install the bearing buddy should I fill the hub with grease or just pack the bearings , then pump grease in the bb ? I know it’s a lame question but I’m digging for gold here. 

Posted

pack the bearings good then put some in the hub you dont have to fill it full of grease

  • Thanks 1
Posted

AJ is spot on with letting the hubs cool down before launching. Even here in Florida with a much less temp change it happens. Couldn’t imagine what happens with his temp changes. Yikes. 
When it’s time I never just change the bearings anymore, I buy the complete hub assembly. Yes it’s more money but I know that everything matches and is new. 
Have you checked your spindles to see if something is wrong with them?  It would be extremely rare to have any problems with them but you never know. With the rate that you’re having to change bearings, might be worth looking at. 
Also when replacing the hubs, I’ll get a set of bearings at the same time and replace the ones in the old hub, repack them and wrap in stretch wrap and store in my truck so if you have a catastrophic failure on the road, you have a backup set to at least get you home. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
  • Super User
Posted

I suspect you have a rear seal issue.  Make sure there is not a seal grove cut into the spindles on the axle.  If there is, you need to get you some repair sleeves.  Also make sure they didn't get bits of weld slag on the spindle where the seal runs.  It should be a nice, smooth surface all the way around.  

As mentioned, the hubs heat up on the trip and when backed into the cold water, it creates a vacuum effect that can pull water in, but good seals should prevent this.  

Bearing buddies will help, but will not cure it completely if the seals a causing the problem.  

The trick to using bearing buddies is to have a grease gun with you and after a long tow, before backing into the water, give each one a shot of grease. Enough to ensure the center is floating in the springs but not so much you push the centers all the way out.  That causes them to make one greasy mess as it pushes the grease out the relief hole and can cause the grease to blow them off on the highway.   With the center floating in the springs, when you back into the water, the grease has room to contract so it does not create the suction that pulls the water in.  

If everything is good, you should only have to do bearings once a year.  In the fall after you have made your last trip is a good time.  Waiting until spring, if there's water in them, it rust the bearing over the winter and you have to replace them.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Way2slow said:

I suspect you have a rear seal issue.  Make sure there is not a seal grove cut into the spindles on the axle.  If there is, you need to get you some repair sleeves.  Also make sure they didn't get bits of weld slag on the spindle where the seal runs.  It should be a nice, smooth surface all the way around.  

As mentioned, the hubs heat up on the trip and when backed into the cold water, it creates a vacuum effect that can pull water in, but good seals should prevent this.  

Bearing buddies will help, but will not cure it completely if the seals a causing the problem.  

The trick to using bearing buddies is to have a grease gun with you and after a long tow, before backing into the water, give each one a shot of grease. Enough to ensure the center is floating in the springs but not so much you push the centers all the way out.  That causes them to make one greasy mess as it pushes the grease out the relief hole and can cause the grease to blow them off on the highway.   With the center floating in the springs, when you back into the water, the grease has room to contract so it does not create the suction that pulls the water in.  

If everything is good, you should only have to do bearings once a year.  In the fall after you have made your last trip is a good time.  Waiting until spring, if there's water in them, it rust the bearing over the winter and you have to replace them.  

Way2, that’s what I’m thinking about the spindles. If there’s anything in the way of metal or even rust on them, that will tear that rear seal up in a hurry. My(our?) guess is he’s got something on there causing that. 

Posted
4 hours ago, SC53 said:

AJ is spot on with letting the hubs cool down before launching. Even here in Florida with a much less temp change it happens. Couldn’t imagine what happens with his temp changes. Yikes. 
When it’s time I never just change the bearings anymore, I buy the complete hub assembly. Yes it’s more money but I know that everything matches and is new. 
Have you checked your spindles to see if something is wrong with them?  It would be extremely rare to have any problems with them but you never know. With the rate that you’re having to change bearings, might be worth looking at. 
Also when replacing the hubs, I’ll get a set of bearings at the same time and replace the ones in the old hub, repack them and wrap in stretch wrap and store in my truck so if you have a catastrophic failure on the road, you have a backup set to at least get you home. 

I shined the spindle up with Emory cloth and didn’t feel anything rough , or sharp. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I suspect you have a rear seal issue.  Make sure there is not a seal grove cut into the spindles on the axle.  If there is, you need to get you some repair sleeves.  Also make sure they didn't get bits of weld slag on the spindle where the seal runs.  It should be a nice, smooth surface all the way around.  

As mentioned, the hubs heat up on the trip and when backed into the cold water, it creates a vacuum effect that can pull water in, but good seals should prevent this.  

Bearing buddies will help, but will not cure it completely if the seals a causing the problem.  

The trick to using bearing buddies is to have a grease gun with you and after a long tow, before backing into the water, give each one a shot of grease. Enough to ensure the center is floating in the springs but not so much you push the centers all the way out.  That causes them to make one greasy mess as it pushes the grease out the relief hole and can cause the grease to blow them off on the highway.   With the center floating in the springs, when you back into the water, the grease has room to contract so it does not create the suction that pulls the water in.  

If everything is good, you should only have to do bearings once a year.  In the fall after you have made your last trip is a good time.  Waiting until spring, if there's water in them, it rust the bearing over the winter and you have to replace them.  

Awesome . The shot of grease before I back it in is something I would never have thought of. Thanks way2slow

  • Super User
Posted

Make sure you check the shoulder at the back of the spindle, not the spindle itself.  The shoulder at the back is the surface the seal rides on.  It must be smooth and no seal grove in it.  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Super User
Posted

Am I missing something or am I stupid? How do you not replace the rear seal when you replace the inner bearing? I've always used a seal tool to pull the rear seal to access the inner bearing. The seal is garbage after that.  

  • Super User
Posted

I've done it a few times successfully.  if I was getting failure at such a frequency, I would relent and farm out the work to a pro.  start from a clean slate.  I would suspect that I was doing something incorrectly.  but I'm paranoid.  

  • Like 1
Posted

I had a 1969 Wards 13' row boat and trailer. I had to repack the bearings after every third trip you could hear the scraping in the wheel. Thankfully they never gave out but it was a pain. I  always changed the outer bearings as they were very pitted.

My new boat has bearing buddies on it. I looked at the instructions that came with the boat and they seem very involved, it doesn't seem like they just change the outer caps. Anyway I love these things 10 years and no issues. Just 2 shots of grease a year.

The trailer came with them installed.

They are beyond my skill and tools so I take it to a pro.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I'm not saying no to replace the rear seal.   I seriously doubt you could get the rear bearing out to clean and pack it without damaging the seal.  My seals get replaced every time I clean and pack the bearings, which is usually once a year.  

I was just saying to make sure the seal surface area on the spindle is smooth and does not have s seal grove worn into it.

I don't even use a seal puller, I just go in from the front with something to knock the bearing out, and that takes the seal out with it.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Darth-Baiter said:

I've done it a few times successfully.  if I was getting failure at such a frequency, I would relent and farm out the work to a pro.  start from a clean slate.  I would suspect that I was doing something incorrectly.  but I'm paranoid.  

My pride won’t let me say uncle. I know I will get it, hopefully with the bearing buddies, new seals , smooth shoulder at the back of the spindle , corrosion resistant grease, waiting for the hubs to cool off before launching and a shot of grease at the ramp I’ll be fixed up. 

1 hour ago, newbiedmv said:

I had a 1969 Wards 13' row boat and trailer. I had to repack the bearings after every third trip you could hear the scraping in the wheel. Thankfully they never gave out but it was a pain. I  always changed the outer bearings as they were very pitted.

My new boat has bearing buddies on it. I looked at the instructions that came with the boat and they seem very involved, it doesn't seem like they just change the outer caps. Anyway I love these things 10 years and no issues. Just 2 shots of grease a year.

The trailer came with them installed.

They are beyond my skill and tools so I take it to a pro.

Oh how I long for a new boat . Just hook up and go. 

40 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

I'm not saying no to replace the rear seal.   I seriously doubt you could get the rear bearing out to clean and pack it without damaging the seal.  My seals get replaced every time I clean and pack the bearings, which is usually once a year.  

I was just saying to make sure the seal surface area on the spindle is smooth and does not have s seal grove worn into it.

I don't even use a seal puller, I just go in from the front with something to knock the bearing out, and that takes the seal out with it.

I understood what you meant and appreciate the advice 

  • Super User
Posted
On 5/19/2021 at 9:27 PM, newbiedmv said:

I had a 1969 Wards 13' row boat and trailer. I had to repack the bearings after every third trip you could hear the scraping in the wheel. Thankfully they never gave out but it was a pain. I  always changed the outer bearings as they were very pitted.

My new boat has bearing buddies on it. I looked at the instructions that came with the boat and they seem very involved, it doesn't seem like they just change the outer caps. Anyway I love these things 10 years and no issues. Just 2 shots of grease a year.

The trailer came with them installed.

They are beyond my skill and tools so I take it to a pro.

The biggest issue with bearing buddies is they can only be taken off and put back on once or twice for a repack or an inspection. The grooves on the lip that fits in the hub flatten and then you lose the bearing buddy riding down the road. I'd recommend doing a repack/inspection every 2-3 years just to CYA.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I didn't know that.  I've had sets that came on trailers I pulled off numbers of times.  I guess it's determined by how you remove and install them. 

However, when I buy a set, I normally buy the Red Eye bearing covers instead of the Bearing Buddy.  I've always liked them better.

The biggest thing is not to over fill them.  That will make the grease push them off when the warm up.

  • Like 1
Posted

I didn't know that either.  I guess it's time to jack it up after a trip to see if there is any play in them. I do check the temperature on the road every 2 hours. I see way way to many trailers sitting on the side with just a spindle on the ground. So far everything has been cool to the touch. I rarely go more than 3 hours away.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
11 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I didn't know that.  I've had sets that came on trailers I pulled off numbers of times.  I guess it's determined by how you remove and install them. 

However, when I buy a set, I normally buy the Red Eye bearing covers instead of the Bearing Buddy.  I've always liked them better.

The biggest thing is not to over fill them.  That will make the grease push them off when the warm up.

I've only used Bearing Buddy brand, use a rubber mallet to remove them, and reinstall with a block of wood and a hammer. I've thrown maybe 4 or 5 in 25 years of boat ownership. 

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, newbiedmv said:

I didn't know that either.  I guess it's time to jack it up after a trip to see if there is any play in them. I do check the temperature on the road every 2 hours. I see way way to many trailers sitting on the side with just a spindle on the ground. So far everything has been cool to the touch. I rarely go more than 3 hours away.

That may have been my trailer you saw . Haha

19 minutes ago, slonezp said:

I've only used Bearing Buddy brand, use a rubber mallet to remove them, and reinstall with a block of wood and a hammer. I've thrown maybe 4 or 5 in 25 years of boat ownership. 

I threw a dust cap last month. I’d probably taken it off a dozen times  . Every time I get home I take them off trying to drain the water out . 

11 hours ago, K1500 said:

I wonder if you have an alignment issue that is causing the tires to scrub and put abnormal wear on the bearings. 

I measured from the hitch to the axle on both sides. It’s pretty dang close. Is that what you mean ? 

11 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I didn't know that.  I've had sets that came on trailers I pulled off numbers of times.  I guess it's determined by how you remove and install them. 

However, when I buy a set, I normally buy the Red Eye bearing covers instead of the Bearing Buddy.  I've always liked them better.

The biggest thing is not to over fill them.  That will make the grease push them off when the warm up.

Do you just remove them with a deadblow hammer?

Posted

Just a fyi thing.

Found this on my trailer. I'm not messing with this.

Can't post the pic it I'll try a message. It's kinda worth a look.

 

  • Global Moderator
Posted

C6-E763-B7-3-C30-4365-9-B9-B-0-D0-CC787-I always put too much grease and it slings. Grandpa used to say never skimp on oil and grease. I can’t go cross country without packing them full.  I’m 5 hours south of home and it’s rolling nicely tho 

Posted
44 minutes ago, TnRiver46 said:

C6-E763-B7-3-C30-4365-9-B9-B-0-D0-CC787-I always put too much grease and it slings. Grandpa used to say never skimp on oil and grease. I can’t go cross country without packing them full.  I’m 5 hours south of home and it’s rolling nicely tho 

Is it slinging the grease through the spokes from the back of the wheel ? The wheel looks pretty clean around the lug nuts. 

  • Global Moderator
Posted
10 minutes ago, Skunkmaster-k said:

Is it slinging the grease through the spokes from the back of the wheel ? The wheel looks pretty clean around the lug nuts. 

I don’t know, I squeeze it full until it comes out the tiny hole. @Way2slow said to stop before then and it won’t happen, which is probably sound advice. I just have grandpa‘s advice in my head when I’m using oil and grease, the more the merrier. My weedeater runs rich! 

  • Haha 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



  • Outboard Engine

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.