Not getting the casting distances I hoped for out of my Daiwa reels, Tatula CT100 and CC80

[J Francho]

A couple things I can think of.  You're new to casting gear, so you just need some practice - tons of it.  Also keep in mind most 'tubers are using wide angle lenses that make a 20' cast look like 100 yards.  Bottom line: practice, and don't worry about anything else.  Work on accuracy, and distance will come with it for free.

[GetFishorDieTryin]

14 minutes ago, Blk69 said:

I am casting in the front yard and using a measuring wheel for distances.  Seeing Youtubers doing similar and outperforming me.  

 

Yes, an angler fishing on the water and saying they cast 40 to 50 yards is basically a best guess for them.  As I am only casting 25 yards, seeing a big difference.  

 

I would be happy hitting 75 feet with a weightless setup.

I think there is too much emphasis on reels being the biggest factor in casting distance.  No doubt they play a major part, but that's only half the equation.  The action, power, length and weight range is just as important IMO.  A stiff rod that doesn't really load up isn't going to give you as much distance as a rod with a little more tip.  

What are the specs on the rods your using   

No offense, but realistically you cant just pick up a BC outfit for the first time and expect to max performance.  It would be like expecting to hit a target 500yds downrange the first time you ever picked up a rifle.  As you get more proficient with controlling the spool while casting use less and less brakes in small increments.   

[new2BC4bass]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the rods you chose.  A 7' MHF is probably the most suggested rod for all around use.  Whoever suggested 20# braid on a MH rod for someone to learn with doesn't know what he is talking about.  My opinion.  Going smaller is the wrong direction.  Is 20# doable?  Yes, but by someone familiar with using braid.  Please go up to 40#-50# braid.

 

Berkley Trilene XL is a soft line.  XT is harder.  XT could give you a little more trouble due to more memory.  Which are you using?  No mono is as soft as braid (any that I've used), but should not be an issue.  Mono will have less memory once wet.

 

Setting spool tension correctly on the CT and doing the drop test often shown on videos is asking for a huge overrun.  I just checked several of my Magforce Z reels.  Brakes are set from 5 to 7 on most.  7.5-8 on one or two.  I've been using Magforce Z for 12 years, but didn't start using a casting reel until I was 61 so I will never be as good as most of these other guys.

 

You can get excellent distance with a linear mag brake reel.  Probable the longest casts I've made were done on such a reel...a Gen1 STX.

 

I always use my reels straight out of the box with no cleaning and relubing.  I hate tinkering.

 

EDIT:  I am like BaitFinesse...I don't baby my casts.  Fishing from shore has me doing the opposite.

[WRB]

20# J braid is .009D, 12# Trilene is  .012-.013D. Small D braid can dig into itself on a casting reel slowing down the spool but you have the same casting distance with mono.

This indicated to me you are the problem not your tackle.

I have casted over 50 yards with dozens of different rod/reel/line bait casting tackle for over 65 years now.

The faster action rods are harder to cast long distance then moderate action rods equal length. The reason is release becomes reduced with a stiffer rod and the lure weight loads up a shorter length of the rod, both reduce casting length.

The only way to improve your casting skills is practice using the proper mechanics.

Most pro’s I watch have marginal casting mechanics. When you see the reel handle at 9 or 3 o’clock the wrist is turned 90 degrees or thumb up and that is incorrect. Your thumb  should be pointing towards your ear hand knuckles up at the end of the casting motion so the wrist can bend properly creating faster rod tip velocity, plus the spool spins freely. 

Casting motion isn’t a baseball bat swing, your elbow stays close to your side, not extended until the end of the casting motion.

Suggest you pull off 60 yards of braid and tape over the line on the spool with Teflon plumbers tape. This will prevent a backlash any deep.

Next buy a  3/4 oz practice plug and practice and practice until your motion is comfortable and casting 30 yards with ease. Continue casting and reducing the brakes until you reach 40 yds. A football field is ideal, open space with yard markers. Take a hula hoop for a target.

Good luck,

Tom

 

[Deleted account]

5 hours ago, PhishLI said:

4 on the brakes on that reel is for expert level casters, and even then that's the hairy lower limit. 

In my best Steve Martin from The Jerk voice:

"I'M AN EXPERT LEVEL CASTER! I'M AN EXPERT LEVEL CASTER! 

[Revival]

A 1/2 oz jig + trailer will be closer to 3/4oz or even more.  I just don’t think jigs at that size is the best choice to testing for distance either.

 

Try a lipless crank and report back.

 

I would also change that 20lb braid to 30lb-40lb braid on that reel but that’s just me.

 

Edit: I would also put some cheap mono backing on that CT reel if you are using braid.  

[islandbass]

First, I’d switch to mono for the sake of learning, anywhere from 10-14 test. 
 

Second, assuming you have properly set the reel, you need to work on your casting timing and mechanics. The mechanics are the same between spinning and casting rigs but NOT the timing. Your thumb comes of the spool of a casting rod EARLIER than your forefinger does on a spinning rod. 
 

More on that later. Also your mechanics are more critical with a casting rig than with a spinning rig. You can be sloppy and whippy with a spinning rig and still get a decent cast. Not so with a casting rig. Distance will suffer. If you don’t or haven’t noticed this yet, learn to allow the weight of the lure to load (ie, bend the rod back) the rod and allow rod to spring back. This is the key, honestly, for any cast. 
 

picture yourself in the middle of a clock face with 12 o’clock directly above you and 9 o’clock directly in front of you and 3 o’clock behind you. The ideal position you let thumb comes off the spool is somewhere between 2 and 1 o’clock and 12:30 at the latest. 
 

Yes, that early. 
 

1) Ensure the rod gets properly loaded by the lure’s weight.

2) Release in the specified time frame and you’re golden. 
 

I’m telling this to you from my own experience, including choosing 20# braid, getting line dig to boot, my first go at learning casting gear. Worse yet, I even bought a reel with the handle on the wrong side, lol. 
 

50 yards is a pretty darn good cast if you ask me, that’s 150 ft. 

[Bankbeater]

When I got my reels, they were just about dry on the inside.  After I oiled them they were much smoother.

[dodgeguy]

50 lb braid minimum on a baitcaster. I've said it a million times and I'll say it a million more.it will handle better and cast further than thinner line. Forget the J braid and buy some Sufix 832. For mono I would use Sufix Advance mono. Smoothness casts further than force.

[Boomstick]

You might be casting too soft, using too much brake etc.

The other thing is what lures are you throwing? If you are throwing lighter lures on a MH/F rod, they won't cast as far as something weighing at least 1/2oz.

 

Finally, with the Daiwa reels, you basically set your tension spool to the point the reel just begins to click ever so slightly. From there, you shouldn't have to touch it. Try to keep your brake no more than 10.

[Blk69]

On 5/12/2021 at 3:19 PM, ajschn06 said:

Thicker braid will help reduce backlashes and digging.  I was not all that enthralled with the Tatula CT reel, but it should perform substantially better than the CC80 (I did use the CR80 reel and was pretty impressed with that one for the price though).  Go to the big auction site for your reels, I got a Tatula SV brand new for just a few dollars more than you paid for the CT- casting ease and distance between those two is night and day...

Not familiar with the CT vs SV.  Sounds like you got great deal.

On 5/12/2021 at 3:48 PM, GetFishorDieTryin said:

I think there is too much emphasis on reels being the biggest factor in casting distance.  No doubt they play a major part, but that's only half the equation.  The action, power, length and weight range is just as important IMO.  A stiff rod that doesn't really load up isn't going to give you as much distance as a rod with a little more tip.  

What are the specs on the rods your using   

No offense, but realistically you cant just pick up a BC outfit for the first time and expect to max performance.  It would be like expecting to hit a target 500yds downrange the first time you ever picked up a rifle.  As you get more proficient with controlling the spool while casting use less and less brakes in small increments.   

Unfamiliar with the "BC" term, is that a combo?  Agree should not expect max results as a novice, was hoping for better results thou at this point.  

[Blk69]

On 5/12/2021 at 4:14 PM, new2BC4bass said:

 

Berkley Trilene XL is a soft line.  XT is harder.  XT could give you a little more trouble due to more memory.  Which are you using?  No mono is as soft as braid (any that I've used), but should not be an issue.  Mono will have less memory once wet.

 

Setting spool tension correctly on the CT and doing the drop test often shown on videos is asking for a huge overrun.  I just checked several of my Magforce Z reels.  Brakes are set from 5 to 7 on most.  7.5-8 on one or two.  I've been using Magforce Z for 12 years, but didn't start using a casting reel until I was 61 so I will never be as good as most of these other guys.

 

You can get excellent distance with a linear mag brake reel.  Probable the longest casts I've made were done on such a reel...a Gen1 STX.

 

I always use my reels straight out of the box with no cleaning and relubing.  I hate tinkering.

 

EDIT:  I am like BaitFinesse...I don't baby my casts.  Fishing from shore has me doing the opposite.

Using Berkley Trilene big Game mono, .14" dia.  This line seams to have a lot of memory to it, backlashes little easier to get out with the braided 20#.

 

Setting tension like you described, seams give the max casting distance.

 

Almost went with the SLX but thought the mags were an upgrade vs the plastic brakes.  Plus taking the reel apart to access the brakes of the SLX concerned me....didn't want anything to fall into the water.

On 5/12/2021 at 5:53 PM, BaitFinesse said:

They are different.  The Tatula has Magforce Z which uses centrifugal weights to push the inductor rotor of the spool into the magnetic field where braking occurs.  The mag dial increases the intensity of the magnetic field and the magnets remain at a fixed distance from the spool.  The CA80 has fixed magnetic field strength and the dial moves the magnets closer to the spool.  The spool remains fixed in place. 

 

On both turning the dial up increases braking.  On the Tatula it increases the intensity of the magnetic field.  On the CA80 if moves the magnets closer.  The key difference is that on the Tatula the braking profile is non-linear.  It will brake less at the end of the cast than the CA80 for the same amount of braking in the beginning or, for the same about of braking at the end of the cast, the Tatula will brake more at the beginning.  This allows the Tatula to be cast harder.  You can really whip it and centrifugal forces with extend the inductor into the magnets at the beginning of the cast and pull them further away at the end of the cast.  On the CA80 and other linear magnetic brake reels it would be like if someone cranked up the mag dial as soon as you released thr spool on a cast then turned it down as the bait sails away.  Impossible to actually do yourself but Magforce Z accomplishes this on its own.  Same for the older Magforce V.  

 

Thank you for explaining.  I have re-read this a couple of times now and still trying to get the concept.  Going to take the reels apart to see the difference.  

[Blk69]

On 5/12/2021 at 6:38 PM, Revival said:

A 1/2 oz jig + trailer will be closer to 3/4oz or even more.  I just don’t think jigs at that size is the best choice to testing for distance either.

 

Try a lipless crank and report back.

 

I would also change that 20lb braid to 30lb-40lb braid on that reel but that’s just me.

 

Edit: I would also put some cheap mono backing on that CT reel if you are using braid.  

Do not understand why backing is needed for the braid.  Probable over 1/2 of the line never leaves my spool, any backing would never be used.

On 5/12/2021 at 8:21 PM, islandbass said:

First, I’d switch to mono for the sake of learning, anywhere from 10-14 test. 
 

Second, assuming you have properly set the reel, you need to work on your casting timing and mechanics. The mechanics are the same between spinning and casting rigs but NOT the timing. Your thumb comes of the spool of a casting rod EARLIER than your forefinger does on a spinning rod. 
 

More on that later. Also your mechanics are more critical with a casting rig than with a spinning rig. You can be sloppy and whippy with a spinning rig and still get a decent cast. Not so with a casting rig. Distance will suffer. If you don’t or haven’t noticed this yet, learn to allow the weight of the lure to load (ie, bend the rod back) the rod and allow rod to spring back. This is the key, honestly, for any cast. 
 

picture yourself in the middle of a clock face with 12 o’clock directly above you and 9 o’clock directly in front of you and 3 o’clock behind you. The ideal position you let thumb comes off the spool is somewhere between 2 and 1 o’clock and 12:30 at the latest. 
 

Yes, that early. 
 

1) Ensure the rod gets properly loaded by the lure’s weight.

2) Release in the specified time frame and you’re golden. 
 

I’m telling this to you from my own experience, including choosing 20# braid, getting line dig to boot, my first go at learning casting gear. Worse yet, I even bought a reel with the handle on the wrong side, lol. 
 

50 yards is a pretty darn good cast if you ask me, that’s 150 ft. 

Thank you for explaining the clock.  Have to do some tests on when I am releasing the spool.

I have some Pline ultra thin low memory 8lb mono.  Is this any good?  Better or worse the the Trilene I have?

[MN Fisher]

Just now, Blk69 said:

Do not understand why backing is needed for the braid.  Probable over 1/2 of the line never leaves my spool, any backing would never be used.

That's it exactly...two reasons to use backing.

1: Cheap mono backing saves money in the long run. Since you only need 70yds or so of mainline, why spend all that money on expensive braid where it might even take more than a single 150yd source-spool to fill your reel. Using backing you can get two fills from one source spool.

2: Braid can slip on the spool if tied direct. A backing of mono prevents slippage.

[WRB]

You are too far into the weeds on this.

Berkley Big Game 12 lb mono is .014D and will cast a 1/2 jig 50 yards on several reels I have used from Abu 4500C, Daiwa  HTSA’s and Daiwa Tatula 100R using 6’10” MH fast rods.

Sunline Defier Armillo 11 lb test is .011D, very smooth long casting Nylon mono line. FC Seaguar Tatsu 12 lb is excellent casting line for a FC.

Set your mag @ 6, adjust the spool tension using the lure so it falls with slight resistance, not free fall. 

I use a product called Tangle Free for line lubricant on FC and mono to reduce memory issues.

re read what I took the time to write originally.

Peace,

Tom

 

 

[GetFishorDieTryin]

18 hours ago, Blk69 said:

Unfamiliar with the "BC" term, is that a combo?

No, it just means bait caster

[new2BC4bass]

.014 is 12# Big Game.  I use it on some reels.  If you are just practicing on dry land, then I can see you having a problem with memory.  Big Game will lay better once wet.  It is a well thought of line with good abrasion resistance.  Unfortunately that means it has more memory than some lines.  For a line that will lay better...especially when dry...I'd suggest Sufix Elite, Sunline Super Natural or Berkley XL.

[Revival]

On 5/14/2021 at 3:31 PM, Blk69 said:

Do not understand why backing is needed for the braid.  Probable over 1/2 of the line never leaves my spool, any backing would never be used.

 

Think of backing as a “filler” for your reel and also gives the braid something to grip on to prevent it from slipping when retrieving your bait or fighting a fish.

 

I usually use 100 yds of braid and mono backing for the rest.

[Dash Riprock]

On 5/12/2021 at 2:19 PM, ajschn06 said:

Thicker braid will help reduce backlashes and digging.  I was not all that enthralled with the Tatula CT reel, but it should perform substantially better than the CC80 (I did use the CR80 reel and was pretty impressed with that one for the price though).  Go to the big auction site for your reels, I got a Tatula SV brand new for just a few dollars more than you paid for the CT- casting ease and distance between those two is night and day...

 

fwiw, I have both a Tatula CT and a Tatula SV-TW103 and have had a similar experience. The TW103 is almost magical in how little effort on my part it takes, while the CT requires a lot more attention. They're set up a little differently (CT has 50# braid, TW103 has 20#), and I tend to throw lighter stuff on the TW103.

 

The CT is not a bad reel, but I've never been able to dial it in such that I don't have to keep a thumb on it to prevent backlashes, while the TW103 pretty much does it all by itself unless I get stupid with a bad cast or something.

 

 

[rtwvumtneer6]

On 5/12/2021 at 2:44 PM, BassWhole! said:

Spinning casts longer than BC.

Every time I see this, I can't help but think I need to put the casting reels down and work on my spinning technique.

 

Spools, rods, line size and lure weight are not apples to apples.  At least that's my excuse.

 

For the OP - Experience is the best answer/solution.  Go make a ton of casts!  My only suggestion would be a heavier braid.  15-20# (4-6# mono equivalent dia) goes on my spinning reels, 50# on all casting reels (12# mono equivalent dia).