Not getting the casting distances I hoped for out of my Daiwa reels, Tatula CT100 and CC80

[Blk69]

Hello all.  New to using bait casting reels.  On recommendations selected these two combos, #1 a Daiwa Tatula CT100HS, Daiwa AirdX 7' MHFA rod, 20 lb Jbraid line.  Rod #2 a Daiwa CC80HS, 13 fishing 7' MH rod, Berkley Trilene mono12lb line.  Using a 1/2 oz jig best casting distances I can obtain are rod #1 75', rod #2 85'.  Spools are adjusted to minimize play and brakes adjusted to lightest possible before major backlashes.  

 

Watching YouTube, seeing anglers getting much better casting distances then what I am able to do.  Was hoping to hit casting distances around 120' with each combo.  Where should I start to try improvements.  Is my line or rods selected my major cause for poor performance?  Suspect some of the issue maybe my form as getting similar casting distance when casting overhead or from the side.   The Tatula was twice the price as the CC80 and casts 10' less.  

 

Thank you in advance for any guidance.  

[Mobasser]

It sounds like your rods/reels are good. Practice your form, ant timing your release on your casting. Keep at it. Practice will improve your casting in a huge way.

[brophog]

Have you flushed and relubed the spool bearings? Almost all factory bearings are too heavily lubricated if distance is a major consideration.

 

 

You said brakes are set to minimize backlash, but did not specify what that setting was. There’s a big difference in casting distance between setting for no thumb and some thumb. Since you say you are new to baitcast reels, I suspect you’ll gain distance by lowering the brakes even further as you get more comfortable controlling the spool via slight thumb pressure.

[fishwizzard]

30 minutes ago, BaitFinesse said:

Watch footage of pros casting.  Do what they do.  You're probably casting the Tatula too soft.  

 

This is how I taught myself how to cast.  Watching longer full-body shots of pros casting and trying to emulate their form is what flipped the switch for me. 

[bulldog1935]

Casting is a ballistic shot. 

Every 20% increase in initial velocity doubles cast distance.  

It doesn't take a lot of velocity improvement to add 30% to your cast.  

You can also improve your cast by aiming up, but then, mid-cast wind backlash becomes more critical.  

[swhit140]

Do you have any mono backing on the Tatula CT that has braided line on it? I usually put about 1/2 mono on the spool first. I would probably step up to 40lb if you going to use braid on it. I usually set my brake around 7-10 depending on wind conditions.

[new2BC4bass]

I don't have either of those reels, but the vast majority of my baitcast reels are Daiwas.  120 feet should be doable with both reels.  The rods are fine.  Your lines are fine as long as the braid isn't digging in.  Personally I would have suggested 40# to learn on.

 

I think you already gave the correct answer.  You are new to baitcast reels, and simply need more practice.  Also realize that we can't all make 70 yard casts.  I fished with a much younger guy who literally could make the rod whistle on a cast.  I will never equal his speed and power on a cast.

[txchaser]

1 hour ago, Blk69 said:

Spools are adjusted to minimize play and brakes adjusted to lightest possible before major backlashes.  

This sounds like you saw the daiwa-specific videos and are not using the tension to do anything other than get the spool to the point where it moves just a little bit side to side. But it should move just a hair. If not, fix that first. 

Second, what is the actual setting you have the brakes on? My daiwas hate whippy (vs smooth) casts, but you can overcome it with too much brakes. You should be at 10 or lower. If not, it's a casting issue. The trick that worked for me was to think about it as a) smooth and b) follow-through - if I stop the rod's forward movement too early it accelerates the spool and will blow it up pretty reliably, even with the SV TW.

 

[new2BC4bass]

5 minutes ago, txchaser said:

This sounds like you saw the daiwa-specific videos and are not using the tension to do anything other than get the spool to the point where it moves just a little bit side to side. But it should move just a hair. If not, fix that first. 

Second, what is the actual setting you have the brakes on? My daiwas hate whippy (vs smooth) casts, but you can overcome it with too much brakes. You should be at 10 or lower. If not, it's a casting issue. The trick that worked for me was to think about it as a) smooth and b) follow-through - if I stop the rod's forward movement too early it accelerates the spool and will blow it up pretty reliably, even with the SV TW.

 

Yup.  Smooth is king.  Never thought about it before, but you are probably also right about the follow through.  I will have to pay more attention to my casting style next time I get out.  Lots of things I do from habit without giving it a thought.

[813basstard]

Here’s the flow chart for problem solving 99% of athletic endeavors:

You

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Equipment

[Bluebasser86]

I don't know about the Tat CT, but I have a couple CC80s and those reels cast a mile. 

[Revival]

Are you talking 1/2 oz jig total or 1/2 oz jig + trailer?

 

Put on a 1/2-3/4 lipless and test that out.

 

What made you go with 20lb braid for your MH rod?

[Deleted account]

20 lb braid on a 1/2 oz jig? Why?

That aside, long casts with 1/2 or so lures will best be accomplished by loading the rod heavily on the back cast and accelerating it quickly but smoothly forward. Lubing the bearings, and making the adjustments will help as you progress. I find my Daiwa's casting distance best around 4 or 5 on the brakes, with no resistance from the spool tension knob. While distance is nice, not a huge issue in bass fishing.

[GetFishorDieTryin]

17 hours ago, Blk69 said:

 

Watching YouTube, seeing anglers getting much better casting distances then what I am able to do.  Was hoping to hit casting distances around 120' with each combo

If there's one thing I learned from a few years of guiding waterfowl hunts its that most people have poor distance estimation skills, especially over water.  It seems that hunters and anglers have a fascination with 40yds.  Its difficult to judge depth in videos as well, so unless they're walking off the distance with a tape measure take the estimations with a grain of salt.  Not saying there aren't people who can cast a weightless plastic 40 yds, but there aren't as many as review/comment sections would make you believe.  

[Blk69]

17 hours ago, brophog said:

Have you flushed and relubed the spool bearings? Almost all factory bearings are too heavily lubricated if distance is a major consideration.

 

 

You said brakes are set to minimize backlash, but did not specify what that setting was. There’s a big difference in casting distance between setting for no thumb and some thumb. Since you say you are new to baitcast reels, I suspect you’ll gain distance by lowering the brakes even further as you get more comfortable controlling the spool via slight thumb pressure.

Took the reels out of the box and put on the rods.  To be honest, little apprehensive about taking them apart.  Was hoping would be good for the first season without getting into them.  

 

Start brakes at max and then back off slowly after a few casts.  I have my thumb in the spool as seams to have the brakes too loose and get some wicked over spin mid cast.  Usually the lure will take care of this toward the end of the cast, but have had some bird nests.  The braid and the mono line act differently so still figuring that out also.

16 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

Casting is a ballistic shot. 

Every 20% increase in initial velocity doubles cast distance.  

It doesn't take a lot of velocity improvement to add 30% to your cast.  

You can also improve your cast by aiming up, but then, mid-cast wind backlash becomes more critical.  

When casting overhead, any wind at all (toward me) really messes with the line.  Probable I am making to large of an arch.

16 hours ago, swhit140 said:

Do you have any mono backing on the Tatula CT that has braided line on it? I would probably step up to 40lb if you going to use braid on it. I usually set my brake around 7-10 depending on wind conditions.

No mono backing.  Brakes set 4 or less.  Using thumb to limit spool over spinning.  Have seen on YouTube anglers casting with no thumb, have never been successful that way.  Probably not using my brakes correctly.  Sometimes they seam to lock up mid cast and have broken off a lure.  

16 hours ago, new2BC4bass said:

I don't have either of those reels, but the vast majority of my baitcast reels are Daiwas.  120 feet should be doable with both reels.  The rods are fine.  Your lines are fine as long as the braid isn't digging in.  Personally I would have suggested 40# to learn on.

 

I think you already gave the correct answer.  You are new to baitcast reels, and simply need more practice.  Also realize that we can't all make 70 yard casts.  I fished with a much younger guy who literally could make the rod whistle on a cast.  I will never equal his speed and power on a cast.

Not familiar with braid digging in reference.  This is the first time I have ever used braid, went with the 20 lb as was recommended (also the Jbraid brand).  Did notice the green die on the line does come off on anything in rubs against. Seams like birds nests are easier to get undone with the braid but that might just be my imagination.  

[Blk69]

16 hours ago, txchaser said:

This sounds like you saw the daiwa-specific videos and are not using the tension to do anything other than get the spool to the point where it moves just a little bit side to side. But it should move just a hair. If not, fix that first. 

Second, what is the actual setting you have the brakes on? My daiwas hate whippy (vs smooth) casts, but you can overcome it with too much brakes. You should be at 10 or lower. If not, it's a casting issue. The trick that worked for me was to think about it as a) smooth and b) follow-through - if I stop the rod's forward movement too early it accelerates the spool and will blow it up pretty reliably, even with the SV TW.

 

Tensioner is set to no side to side play, lure falls freely when spool released (gravity fall).  Brakes are usually set low around 4 and using my thumb to slow the spool when needed.  I am taking large sweeping motions with the casts, Not fast quick ones. Will thru extending my follow thru as you suggest.  The spool blowing up when you stop the forward movement to early I have observed.  Using my thumb to control this currently.  Thank you for the advice.

[Blk69]

7 hours ago, Revival said:

Are you talking 1/2 oz jig total or 1/2 oz jig + trailer?

 

Put on a 1/2-3/4 lipless and test that out.

 

What made you go with 20lb braid for your MH rod?

1/2 oz jig with a trailer, no idea what trailer wgt.  Rod selection and braid wgt from my niece's boyfriends suggestion.  He recommended the 13 fishing rod and my Brother the Tatula.  I went to Cabela's (Bass Pro shop) for a second pole and was planning on getting the Daiwa CC80 combo.  They had an AridX rod and really like it.  It was so light.   Unfortunately they didn't have any CC80 reels so ordered everything from Tackle Warehouse.  Stuck with with the MH rods as seamed like a good all purpose rating.  

7 hours ago, BassWhole! said:

20 lb braid on a 1/2 oz jig? Why?

That aside, long casts with 1/2 or so lures will best be accomplished by loading the rod heavily on the back cast and accelerating it quickly but smoothly forward. Lubing the bearings, and making the adjustments will help as you progress. I find my Daiwa's casting distance best around 4 or 5 on the brakes, with no resistance from the spool tension knob. While distance is nice, not a huge issue in bass fishing.

I am currently shore fishing, also have a kayak. Have the 20 lb braid because was recommended.  This is my first experience with braided line.  Have brake setting around 4 typically.  

 

The reason I switched from spinning reels to baitcasters was to gain casting distance.  Oh ya, I also picked up some waders and plan on doing some creek fishing for small mouth.

[Deleted account]

8 minutes ago, Blk69 said:

The reason I switched from spinning reels to baitcasters was to gain casting distance. 

Spinning casts longer than BC.

[Blk69]

57 minutes ago, GetFishorDieTryin said:

If there's one thing I learned from a few years of guiding waterfowl hunts its that most people have poor distance estimation skills, especially over water.  It seems that hunters and anglers have a fascination with 40yds.  Its difficult to judge depth in videos as well, so unless they're walking off the distance with a tape measure take the estimations with a grain of salt.  Not saying there aren't people who can cast a weightless plastic 40 yds, but there aren't as many as review/comment sections would make you believe.  

I am casting in the front yard and using a measuring wheel for distances.  Seeing Youtubers doing similar and outperforming me.  

 

Yes, an angler fishing on the water and saying they cast 40 to 50 yards is basically a best guess for them.  As I am only casting 25 yards, seeing a big difference.  

 

I would be happy hitting 75 feet with a weightless setup.

[PhishLI]

18 minutes ago, Blk69 said:

I am currently shore fishing, also have a kayak. Have the 20 lb braid because was recommended.  This is my first experience with braided line.  Have brake setting around 4 typically.  

You're new to this. 20 lb braid was not a wise recommendation for you at this point. 30lb, maybe, but 40 will be fine. You'd probably be better off starting with a softish 12lb mono until you get your legs under you. A fluff-and-recover with mono is typically a wrap-around-the-spool and break off your bait with braid.

 

4 on the brakes on that reel is for expert level casters, and even then that's the hairy lower limit. Keep it between 10-12 for zombie casting until you understand what's happening.

[Blk69]

38 minutes ago, BaitFinesse said:

Thats not the breaks doing that.  That's a backlash or line dig in.  I can't go below 7 on the dial of a Tatula reel but I don't cast soft.  I still think you are using too small a diameter of line and casting too soft.  Switch to 40# or 50# braid, turn the brake up to 10 and put that thing over your shoulder and cast it like you mean it.  Don't just swing your arms either.  Get that wrist snap action in of the cast.  Watch pros bomb baits.  Look at how they hold the rod and what their arms and hands do on the cast.  

Also this applies only to your Tatula.  It has centrifugally driven magnetic braking.  That CA whatever thing is not a real Daiwa and has a linear mag brake that probably likes smooth casts.  

Wait, thought they had the same brake systems.  The Magforce Z magnetic casting and braking system.  If they are different, getting similar results so issue is defiantly my casting form.   

[PhishLI]

1 minute ago, Blk69 said:

Wait, thought they had the same brake systems. 

Nope. Mag Z for the Tat and Linear Mag for the CC

[Blk69]

3 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

You're new to this. 20 lb braid was not a wise recommendation for you at this point. 30lb, maybe, but 40 will be fine. You'd probably be better off starting with a softish 12lb mono until you get your legs under you. A fluff-and-recover with mono is typically a wrap-around-the-spool and break off your bait with braid.

 

4 on the brakes on that reel is for expert level casters, and even then, that's the hairy lower limit. Keep it between 10-12 for zombie casting until you understand what's happening.

40 lb braid?  I was thinking about going with a smaller diameter braid (15 lb) to gain more distance.  How will the larger diameter assist? The 12lb mono I have on my cc80, seams like it dose not lay as nice on the spool as the the braid.  Someone did say it may lay to well (digging in) causing some of the issues I am having.  

4 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Nope. Mag Z for the Tat and Linear Mag for the CC

Well, guess you get what you pay for.  While I am not seeing it now, should I expect better performance from my Tatula vs the CC80?

[PhishLI]

3 minutes ago, Blk69 said:

I was thinking about going with a smaller diameter braid (15 lb) to gain more distance.

You don't know what you're doing yet. Correct? We've all been there. Get that out of the way first before you start worrying about distance. That will come. You haven't received any bad advice yet, and this subject has been beaten to death. You'll find the same advice given over and over again by guys who know what they're doing. Use the search function and get your learn on.

[ajschn06]

17 minutes ago, Blk69 said:

40 lb braid?  I was thinking about going with a smaller diameter braid (15 lb) to gain more distance.  How will the larger diameter assist? The 12lb mono I have on my cc80, seams like it dose not lay as nice on the spool as the the braid.  Someone did say it may lay to well (digging in) causing some of the issues I am having.  

Well, guess you get what you pay for.  While I am not seeing it now, should I expect better performance from my Tatula vs the CC80?

Thicker braid will help reduce backlashes and digging.  I was not all that enthralled with the Tatula CT reel, but it should perform substantially better than the CC80 (I did use the CR80 reel and was pretty impressed with that one for the price though).  Go to the big auction site for your reels, I got a Tatula SV brand new for just a few dollars more than you paid for the CT- casting ease and distance between those two is night and day...