AManWearingAHat Posted April 14, 2021 Posted April 14, 2021 Newer to the world of bait casters. I don't have the funds to invest in technique specific rod / reel set ups right now. I eventually settled on two St. Croix Mojo's. Both 7'1" MH's, one is a Fast action for Jigs, T-Rigs, Carolina, etc. The second is a Mod-Fast that I use for my Spinner Baits, Chatter Baits, Cranks, and Lipless. Both have Tatulas on them, Jig rod has a 7.3:1, crank rod has a 6.3:1. I spooled both reels with 16 pound Diawa J-Fluoro treated with a line conditioner as I heard it was very good quality line. In doing some more research, I've read that line weight can effect how your crank baits run and how deep. Some have suggested dropping down to 12 or 14 on the cranking rod. My question is, I thought Fluorocarbon sinks anyway, so why would it affect depth on a crank bait? Should I drop down to a lighter line on my cranking set up? My reel manual only lists spool capacity down to 14 pound mono. Ive fished some lipless cranks in ponds on the 16 pound test just getting used to it and felt I was getting acceptable casting distance, and no backlashes once I got used to the reel and figured out the settings. Would I pick up some more casting distance going to a smaller diameter? Thanks! Quote
Super User jimmyjoe Posted April 14, 2021 Super User Posted April 14, 2021 Retrieving a moving lure creates resistance, and smaller diameter line creates less resistance. It makes no difference that the line sinks; that only makes a difference when your line is dead, as in bottom contact, jig fishing, senkos, etc. I use FC on moving lures because I can get better sensitivity than nylon on slow retrieves in dicey situations, like riprap. I use 12. lb test InvizX. jj 3 Quote
Solution galyonj Posted April 14, 2021 Solution Posted April 14, 2021 Reel capacity is just a guideline so you can get a ballpark idea of what capacity you'll have at a given line diameter depending on what you're doing with it. So there are several things to unpack here: I remember reading that most diving crankbaits are designed to reach their rated depth on 12lb line. Heavier means they don't dive as far, lighter might get you a little more depth. All else being equal, lighter line will generally allow more casting distance, which is nice. You're gonna want to consider what the cover/structure situation is where you usually fish. Remember, too, that traps and cranks aren't the only lures you'll be tying onto that line. Do you generally fish in areas where you can get a big single hook driven home and get the fish yanked out of whatever it darts into after the hookset on 12lb line? That's something that only you can answer. In any event, with a MH rod and the line you have on it, you'll want to keep what's tied on the other end in mind when you set the hook. You can fish with exactly what you've got and you'll be successful. Will switching to lighter line make you more successful with small treble-hooked hard baits? Maybe. Would that same change make you less successful with big single hooks? Maybe. In either case, you will absolutely want to keep what you have tied on in mind when you set the hook, lest you yank those little treble hooks right out of the fish's mouth. TL;DR: If you aren't generally fishing areas with lots of brushy cover to have to winch a fish out of on a spinnerbait or chatterbait, I think it'd be worth seriously considering going down to maybe even 12 lb test on your mod-fast to help with sensitivity and give you some fight buffer for the treble hooks. But only you can answer that, bro. 2 Quote
AManWearingAHat Posted April 14, 2021 Author Posted April 14, 2021 Thank you very much. I am still new to the more technical side of this world so I suspect Ill be experimenting a good bit still before I get it right. Now I understand why I'm doing what I am doing. Just the explanation I needed! Quote
RDB Posted April 14, 2021 Posted April 14, 2021 Lot’s of good advice. The only thing I would add is if your using fluoro and looking to save money, use some backing line. You don’t need the reel fully spooled with expensive fluoro. If you choose to add backing, you don’t need to waste the line on the reel. Just wrap some paper towels around a drill bit until it fits snug through the center of the line spool, tighten the spool tension on the reel so it doesn’t backlash, and use the drill to slowly put line back on the original spool. Since you’re new to baitcasters, same thing applies if you blow up a reel. 1 Quote
AManWearingAHat Posted April 15, 2021 Author Posted April 15, 2021 Decided to down size to 12 pound and see how it works out for me. Will save the 16 on the original spool for a rainy day! 1 Quote
Super User WRB Posted April 15, 2021 Super User Posted April 15, 2021 Your 16# FC is only .013D, smaller then most 12# Mono. You will have higher knot strength and less chance of line failure cranking for hours causing wear and tear. Tom Quote
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