Pixy 60 bearing swap?

[OkobojiEagle]

Has anyone reading this changed Pixy 68 stock bearings to ceramic hybrids?  Did you find a noticeable difference of any kind?  Thanks for any insight.

 

oe

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

The difference you’ll notice depends on what you’re comparing to. If the stock bearings are in good condition , flushed and oiled lightly the difference is much more subtle. If you’re doing true BFS fishing <1/4oz for example the easier startup helps. Make sure to use proper tool and care to avoid spool damage replacing that bearing. 

[bulldog1935]

You might check both SDScustom and HPRbearings on ebay - search Daiwa Pixy spool bearings - both offer a range in bearings from shielded to Air BFS.  

If HPR has what you want, he can get them to you sooner from Florida than SDS can post from Ukraine.  

Both good vendors.  

 

If you're not casting heavy weights, go for the lightest bearings they have.  

Lowering the spool inertia with lighter total mass, lighter and more efficient bearings, improves both cast distance and backlash control.  

Lower inertia = easier to start, less start-up overshoot, and easier to stop.  

 

 

I looked up the Pixy spool, and @Delaware Valley Tackle is correct about using the right pin tool - I'm guessing it needs the Daiwa tool - also a good idea to use a magnifier, because if the pin is tapered, it only goes in and out one way. 

[redmeansdistortion]

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

also a good idea to use a magnifier, because if the pin is tapered, it only goes in and out one way. 

I take a Sharpie and put a dot on the side of the shaft with the larger hole, and a dot on the fatter end of the retainer pin as well.  There's usually about a 0.25mm to 0.5mm difference in size between the larger and smaller end of the retainer.

[NOC 1]

15 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

You might check both SDScustom and HPRbearings on ebay - search Daiwa Pixy spool bearings - both offer a range in bearings from shielded to Air BFS.  

If HPR has what you want, he can get them to you sooner from Florida than SDS can post from Ukraine.  

Both good vendors...

 

 

I looked up the Pixy spool, and @Delaware Valley Tackle is correct about using the right pin tool - I'm guessing it needs the Daiwa tool - also a good idea to use a magnifier, because if the pin is tapered, it only goes in and out one way. 

 

I changed all of mine to the Hedge Hog Air BFS. They are excellent bearings. I never use oil on them, only TSI 321. Using oil slows the ceramic bearings down, especially the BFS bearings with the tiny ceramic balls.

 

As you say, you will need a pin removing tool, but not necessary the Daiwa tool. I use and prefer the pliers type of pin remover. Many people say it is difficult to use, but I don't agree. I think they are quick and easy. I think the tools like the Daiwa remover are tedious and slow. But they usually work too.

 

[bulldog1935]

I have the Billings tool that works on most of my spools, but with the SP spool I show in my photo, with the main spool bearing recessed in the shallow spool - the Billings tool won't reach that pin, and the Daiwa pin tool will.  

[NOC 1]

17 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

I have the Billings tool that works on most of my spools, but with the SP spool I show in my photo, with the main spool bearing recessed in the shallow spool - the Billings tool won't reach that pin, and the Daiwa pin tool will.  

I'm not familiar with a Billings tool so I can't really comment on that. The pliers have a pin that was able to push out any pins that I have encountered, but my reels are limited to Daiwa, Shimano and Abu. I think the pliers would work on the spool that you show as you only need maybe 1/16" clearance, which you have if the Daiwa pin pusher works on it.

 

Is the Billings a brand or type of tool?

[bulldog1935]

It's a brand, and a cost-effective copy of the Hedgehog tool - Hedgehog states in their product listing that it won't fit certain Daiwa spools.  

 

 

The Daiwa tool has a rotating anvil that reaches those deep pins, and flips for shallower pins.  

[NOC 1]

3 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

It's a brand, and a cost-effective copy of the Hedgehog tool - Hedgehog states in their product listing that it won't fit certain Daiwa reels.  

 

I get it now. I've used that type before, and do like that they have that little cup that catches the pin and also that they are good at precision. But on the other hand, they are slow and I've had them strip out on the really tough pins. But maybe the ultra expensive Daiwa tool is made of harder material.  I've lost a few pins with the pliers, but I don't mind much, I often will put a new pin in anyway so I always have spares.

 

I just went with the Boca pliers and haven't had a reason to look back yet.

[OkobojiEagle]

I have the Hedgehog pin removal tool and I thought it worked on my Pixy when I last serviced it... that was several years ago though and my memory is getting worse with age.

 

My interest was whether the the ceramics would give a significant improvement over the stock bearings which are quite good.  I usually use it for small jerkbaits such as the Pointer 78...

 

oe

[bulldog1935]

Understood, don't have your specific reel, and gave the generic answer up front.  

Like @NOC 1 and his results, I've been very happy with Air bearings in my spools for inshore casting, light lures (1/8 to 3/8), and big fish. 

I have to clean and lube my bearings annually, anyway, and except for drive bearings, heavy shielded bearings are more trouble than they're worth.  

[NOC 1]

6 minutes ago, OkobojiEagle said:

I have the Hedgehog pin removal tool and I thought it worked on my Pixy when I last serviced it... that was several years ago though and my memory is getting worse with age.

 

My interest was whether the the ceramics would give a significant improvement over the stock bearings which are quite good.  I usually use it for small jerkbaits such as the Pointer 78...

 

oe

I am hesitant to say that anything is anything for sure on a fishing forum. As soon as I do, a half dozen people come out and argue that it isn't.

 

I will say, that the ceramic bearings make enough difference to ME that I've changed to either ZPI or Hedge Hog ceramics on more than 20 of my bait casters. But on the other hand I don't normally change out the bearings on brand new higher end Daiwa or Shimano reels unless it's going to be for really light baits. Both companies use very nice bearings in their reels.

 

But, I would recommend that folks put away the oil and try the TSI 321 lubricant. In my experience that makes a big difference in the way that bearings perform.

 

The PX68 with a stock spool and (good) original bearings ought to be decent with down to 1/8 oz. or so. The ceramic bearings would help a bit with the original spool, but would I think be a must for the ultra light aftermarket BFS spools.

[OkobojiEagle]

Yes, I agree with your assessment about TSI321 oil and I remove at least one side of spool  bearing shields to make maintenance oiling easier.  Frame bearings get 90wt lower unit oil.  I've changed spool bearings to ceramic hybrids in the past but have conflicting thoughts about the Pixy as it is prepared stock for light weight lures... I'm leaning toward leaving it stock.

 

oe

[garroyo130]

Im surprised at the love for TSI321 over 301. I too am a 321 user but for high performance bearings, a 301 dip might be the ticket

[OkobojiEagle]

321 is easier to apply... needle oiler.

 

oe

[NOC 1]

21 minutes ago, garroyo130 said:

Im surprised at the love for TSI321 over 301. I too am a 321 user but for high performance bearings, a 301 dip might be the ticket

My understanding is that it is the same stuff. The 321 is just in a suspension making it easier to apply.

32 minutes ago, OkobojiEagle said:

Yes, I agree with your assessment about TSI321 oil and I remove at least one side of spool  bearing shields to make maintenance oiling easier.  Frame bearings get 90wt lower unit oil.  I've changed spool bearings to ceramic hybrids in the past but have conflicting thoughts about the Pixy as it is prepared stock for light weight lures... I'm leaning toward leaving it stock.

 

oe

If the stock bearings are still good, I think you'd be good either way with jerk baits etc.

[garroyo130]

21 minutes ago, NOC 1 said:

My understanding is that it is the same stuff. The 321 is just in a suspension making it easier to apply.

If the stock bearings are still good, I think you'd be good either way with jerk baits etc.

 

301 contains a strong solvent and you dip the entire bearing. It dries completely leaving only a minimal amount of oil. 301 comes in metal cans 321 comes in elmers glue bottles.

[redmeansdistortion]

I use both 301 and 321.  301 gets used in bushings and 321 in bearings.  For instance, reels with a synchronized level wind, I will hit the axle where the spool pinion rides with 301.  301 also gets used on worm gears and pawls as well.

[NOC 1]

1 hour ago, garroyo130 said:

 

301 contains a strong solvent and you dip the entire bearing. It dries completely leaving only a minimal amount of oil. 301 comes in metal cans 321 comes in elmers glue bottles.

It is the same stuff. It is a dry lubricant. You can buy it as a dry powder but it's kind of a pain. They both are mixed with a liquid, and in both cases the liquid evaporates leaving the dry powder in the bearing. They both come in just about any size you want to buy it in and it's cheap except for when it is sold in little bottles to fishing geeks.

 

I buy it in 8oz. bottles for about $4-5. It's about $.75 an ounce retail by the gallon and stupid cheap by the drum. It's a widely used industrial product and is often sold by the 55 gal. drum.  There is some difference between the 321 and the 301, but it is not a different material or anything, but simply that the 301 is mixed with a solvent and is not compatible with many plastics (which is why it comes in cans) whereas the 321 is not mixed with solvent and is safe for use with most plastics. Other than that they are the same thing. There is no oil in 321.

 

Unlike a lubricant like oil which temporarily fills in microscopic imperfection in the metal surfaces to reduce friction, but which adds a bit of rolling resistance as it does so, the powder fills in even tinier imperfections and bonds with the surface of the material leaving no residue and adds no rolling resistance.

 

Engineering specs show no deterioration over time or with pressure and temp effects.

 

As for me, I'll just stick with the 321 since most reels have plastic parts, but either works fine as long as you remember to let the bearing dry out completely before you put them back into the reel.