My first Custom Builds - NFC & Phenix

[kayaking_kev]

 

Starting from bottom to top. (Click on the picture and it will make it bigger)

 

NFC X-Ray SJ-736 - H/F, cut down to 7'0" / NFC Carbontex Grips / G2 Razor Carbon Reel Seat / G2 Carbon Insert / G2 Carbon Foregrip Sleeve / Fuji SiC Guides / Cagey Hook Spiral Wrapped Guides / Decal from Decal Connection / Shimano Metanium MGL

 

NFC X-Ray MB-736 - MH/F / G2 Carbon Grips / G2 Blade Carbon Reel Seat / G2 Carbon Foregrip Sleeve / Fuji Titanium Torzite Guides / Simple Spiral Wrapped Guides / Carbon Fiber Rod Skin / Decal from Mudhole / Daiwa Tatula SV  ( First rod that I built )

 

NFC X-Ray MB 7109 - Mag Heavy/MF, cut down to 7'6" / CFX Carbon Composite Grips / G2 Vibe Reel Seat / G2 Carbon Insert / G2 Carbon Foregrip Sleeve / Fuji Black Alconite Guides / Simple Spiral Wrapped Guides / Diamond Wrap / Decal from Decal Connection / Daiwa Tatula CT Type-R

 

Phenix X-10 Composite - M/MF / Winn Grips / G2 Razor Carbon Reel Seat / G2 Carbon Insert / G2 Carbon Foregrip Sleeve / Fuji SiC Guides / Marbling / Decal from Decal Connection / Shimano SLX MGL 70 

 

NFC X-Ray MB-733 - ML/F / G2 Carbon Split Grips / American Tackle AERO Carbon Spinning Reel Seat / Fuji Sic Guides / Marbling / Decal from Decal Connection / Shimano Vanford 2500

 

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I will upload more pictures when I'm able to and also talk about some things regarding the building process, such as where I had the most difficulty.

I have been able to catch fish on 4 of the 5 rods in only the few times I have been able to fish this Spring, but I haven't fished with the other one yet.

[Dwight Hottle]

??

[Michigander]

Fantastic!!

[.ghoti.]

Nice selection 

[kayaking_kev]

Thanks everyone!

 

One of the biggest problems I ran into, if not the biggest was applying finish over a longer area, as I didn't have the same problem with guides.

 

You can see in the pic below on the 2nd rod from the bottom, which was the first rod I built and is the most noticeable in the picture. You can see the unevenness or wavy finish after the decal section where the carbon fiber rod skin starts. This was the worst because I had the carbon fiber skin start to unwrap as I was applying finish to it and it became a pain. I later found out that by using a instant UV light resin on decals and rod skins before applying finish I could eliminate this problem.

 

But, I still have a little problem applying finish over a couple of the decal sections. It didn't come out as even as I would have liked on a couple rods. You can't even notice it unless you run your hands down the section. I'm not exactly sure what I did wrong though, but have some ideas.

 

Could it be the unsanded X-Ray blanks, even though I put down a layer of finish underneath the decals first to create a smooth surface? I didn't have any problem on my Phenix blank.

 

Could my room have been to hot? It gets pretty warm, but I don't think over 80 F.

 

Could I have spread the finish to thin or to thick?

 

Could I have waited to long to apply the finish after mixing?

 

Could it be a mixing ratio problem, even though I use syringes for precise parts?

 

What else could cause my finish to get wavy like that?

 

[Deephaven]

Great work.  I love my customs.  The one I built is the most satisfying to use as well

[NOC 1]

On 3/24/2021 at 2:43 PM, kayaking_kev said:

Thanks everyone!

 

One of the biggest problems I ran into, if not the biggest was applying finish over a longer area, as I didn't have the same problem with guides.

 

You can see in the pic below on the 2nd rod from the bottom, which was the first rod I built and is the most noticeable in the picture. You can see the unevenness or wavy finish after the decal section where the carbon fiber rod skin starts. This was the worst because I had the carbon fiber skin start to unwrap as I was applying finish to it and it became a pain. I later found out that by using a instant UV light resin on decals and rod skins before applying finish I could eliminate this problem.

 

But, I still have a little problem applying finish over a couple of the decal sections. It didn't come out as even as I would have liked on a couple rods. You can't even notice it unless you run your hands down the section. I'm not exactly sure what I did wrong though, but have some ideas.

 

Could it be the unsanded X-Ray blanks, even though I put down a layer of finish underneath the decals first to create a smooth surface? I didn't have any problem on my Phenix blank.

 

Could my room have been to hot? It gets pretty warm, but I don't think over 80 F.

 

Could I have spread the finish to thin or to thick?

 

Could I have waited to long to apply the finish after mixing?

 

Could it be a mixing ratio problem, even though I use syringes for precise parts?

 

What else could cause my finish to get wavy like that?

 

 

I'm not an expert by any means, but I have run into that problem when I've tried to apply the resin with a paintbrush, as in painting it on.

I have better luck just using the brush to sort of drizzle the material onto the top of the rod. I put so much on that it starts forming drips at the bottom and then I use the brush to soak those up without actually touching the rod. I think using the brush to paint it on is what just makes it wavy.

 

The idea is that if you have an excess so that it is almost dripping over the entire length, then it should all settle to the same uniform depth...oh and lots of heat. Also I use thin build resin there so that it doesn't end up too thick.

 

 

[MickD]

I have never been able to master applying wrap epoxy with anything but brushes.  I don't recommend using much heat.  Some do and do well with it, but I have found that too much heat will make for waviness.  I warm the wrap epoxy a little by immersing the bottoms of the epoxy containers in warm water for a couple minutes, but it just makes it warm and not hot.  The room is about 70 degrees.  Yes the longer sections are most troublesome, but using strokes with the brush that are longitudinal with respect to the blank, long strokes wetting all areas but not so much that it drips off.  I use lite build and use two coats.  Excessive build with one coat can cause waviness.  Here is a good tutorial on wrap epoxy.  https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/betterepoxy.pdf

[.ghoti.]

kev, the reasons you asked would all be possibilities, except an incorrect ratio

Cure time for epoxy is heat dependent. A 10°C rise will cut the cure time in half. So applying epoxy in a very warm room will shorten the cure time, reducing the time for it to flow out and level.

 Applying too much finish will cause a number of problems, and is the most likely cause of your issue.

Don’t mix until you are ready to apply. Curing starts as soon as the two parts are put together. 
achieving a consistently fine finish is a matter of experience. Ask ten people to explain their procedure with finish epoxy, and will likely get ten different procedures. You need to find yours, and when you get a finished product that meets your standards, do it that way, whatever way it was, every time.
 Regarding your problem child in the above pic, try to remember exactly what you did when finishing that rod. And do not do that again. I know, that sounds like a smart arsed comment, but that is exactly how I found my procedure. Making mistakes and not repeating them.

 

 

 

 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Wavy finish is too heavy of an application. Apply finish to the top edge and wick off excess from bottom, use lengthwise strokes to knock down ridges. This is kind of over simplified but a whole tutorial is available online 

[Michigander]

So is another thin coat a good way to correct the waviness? Or is there a prep task that needs to be done first?

[MickD]

The only way I know to correct waviness is to lightly sand off the ridges with sandpaper on a block.  If you don't use a block you will not sand just the ridges.  Be careful not to go through and affect a decal or the blank.  Then apply another coat, not too thick.  Maybe another light sanding and another coat.  

 

Of course the best thing is to avoid it in the first place.

 

I NEVER apply epoxy in a volume that will result in my having to wick it off the bottom.  If one is putting that much epoxy on, it's asking for trouble.  The second problem that many have is fooling around with the epoxy too much.  One should be able to within a total time of a minute or two apply it, check it out, fix any bubbles, then LEAVE IT ALONE.  As Ghoti says, apply it immediately after mixing it.  I do the long sections first before the wraps since the waviness will show up more there and I want the freshest epoxy on there.

 

If the wraps are a little wavy looking then another coat will probably fix it since they are short, not long like the decal/butt area.

 

If those reading this have not already read the link I offered in a previous post, find it and read it.  Good stuff by a real expert.  

[Ikaika]

On 3/23/2021 at 11:10 AM, kayaking_kev said:

NFC X-Ray MB 7109 - Mag Heavy/MF, cut down to 7'6" / CFX Carbon Composite Grips / G2 Vibe Reel Seat / G2 Carbon Insert / G2 Carbon Foregrip Sleeve / Fuji Black Alconite Guides / Simple Spiral Wrapped Guides / Diamond Wrap / Decal from Decal Connection / Daiwa Tatula CT Type-R

Great looking builds.  3 questions for you if you don't mind:

1. What's your take on the Xray 7109 blank?  I can't find any common cents intrinsic power or action angle measurements for it so am curious to hear your thoughts on how reasonable the 0.5-2oz lure rating is, as well as how moderate the taper really is.  Any applications besides jigs/flipping/punching you think this blank would excel at?
2. I was torn between the Xray 7109 and the Point Blank 761HM; ended up going with the Point Blank after getting scared off of NFC due to customer service horror stories.  How was your experience?  How long did they take to ship?
3. How would you describe the difference between the soft-touch NFC grips, the CFX grips, and the G2?  Do you have a preference so far on texture/grip?  What about weight?

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

I’ll add that achieving a fine finish minus waves and with crisp consistent edges is one of if not THE biggest challenge in rod building. Keep practicing with the goal of a consistently repeatable process that works for you. There are 100 ways to skin this cat. 

[kayaking_kev]

22 hours ago, Ikaika said:

Great looking builds.  3 questions for you if you don't mind:

1. What's your take on the Xray 7109 blank?  I can't find any common cents intrinsic power or action angle measurements for it so am curious to hear your thoughts on how reasonable the 0.5-2oz lure rating is, as well as how moderate the taper really is.  Any applications besides jigs/flipping/punching you think this blank would excel at?
2. I was torn between the Xray 7109 and the Point Blank 761HM; ended up going with the Point Blank after getting scared off of NFC due to customer service horror stories.  How was your experience?  How long did they take to ship?
3. How would you describe the difference between the soft-touch NFC grips, the CFX grips, and the G2?  Do you have a preference so far on texture/grip?  What about weight?

 

1. The X-Ray 7109 is powerful and stout, but I have only been able to use it once so far flipping a jig, and I also cut mine down to 7'6". I'm pretty sure I saw that it will handle small swimbaits, but I have little experience with swimbaits so I can't speak on it. Every X-Ray blank that I have can throw up to their max lure rating or beyond, they are powerful rods, IMO. You might want to ask Michander about this blank as I traded him one for a SJ-736 and he may have fished it more and may be able to tell you more about it.

 

2. I've had pretty good customer service from them. I've always received my orders in just over a week, and even received a replacement for a damaged blank in under two weeks from the time I put in a request.

 

3. The NFC and G2 grips have smaller arbor sections that don't run all the length of the grip, their about 3" or so, the CFX grips arbor runs all the way through. My preference on the texture in the NFC grips, they feel smooth but yet have some grip to them. I didn't think I would like them more than the G2 grips, but I have came around and they are now my favorite grips. I didn't weigh all of them, I think just the G2 and the NFC grips. The NFC full grips weighed 26 grams, and if I remember correctly, the G2 split grips weighed the same or even a little more and I didn't weight the G2 full grips. I posted the weights in one Michander's recent post, but he may have them written down. 

[Ikaika]

Thanks for pointing out that thread, great info there.  I just pulled the trigger on a split grip kit from NFC...hopefully my luck is as good as yours!  ?

[Crackintubes]

Great Job! 

I love all my NFCs