Bunk length on trailer for 1542 Jon boat

[E-H]

I made the mistake of buying a trailer that was a bit too short for my 1542 Jon boat.   The bunks are 4ft. And 2x1 vertical. 
 

I was going to replace them with 6ft ones to extend it out to the end of the boat.  I will never have a gas motor on the back in transit (or ever).  Pretty light boat and about 40 hours a year transporting it. 
 

Any issues with extending the bunks a couple of feet to put less pressure on the back of the boat?  It does sit on the trailer year round when not in use over the summer. 

 

I don’t know much about trailers. Anyone know if that will work and a good idea to do it?  

[Jigfishn10]

I don't know. To be on the safe side I'd go 1' over, 2' maybe pushing it. 

Can you take a pic and post what you have?

[Way2slow]

Are these pivoting bunks on the rear or are they straight and anchored at both ends.

 If they pivot, you have very little option on how long they can be.  They have to be off center enough there's enough weight to make them drop down at the rear when the boat is launched, so you can get the boat on.   The length is going to be determined by the trailer height because if they are too long, they will dig into the surface when you try to back up.   If you try making them longer toward the front, the will drop down in the front and leave the back sticking up, kinda hard to get the boat on like that.

So, the back half has to be longer than the front half but short enough it doesn't dig into the rap/ground when backing up. 

Now as long as you meet that requirement, you can make them what ever length you like.  You might can look at putting some sort of stop on the trailer that keeps them from dropping down far enough to dig in when backing.  That would let you make them longer both ways.

[E-H]

They are straight bunks and I will be extending them to the back.  There are 2 brackets - one in the front and one near the back, so I should be fine I think.  Attached is a pic of the current bunks at length at 4'.  Can't see the front bracket on it but there are 2.  I just purchased 2 bunks that are 6' (arrive Friday), so they will extend 2 additional feet on the back.

[Way2slow]

Wow, with the boat sitting that far back on the trailer, you are going to have to be very careful how much weight is on the back of the boat.  You really don't won't to get below about 10 percent tongue weight or you run into the problem of the boat wanting to sway back and forth when towing.  That will eat up tires and can get dangerous, depending on the size and weight of the vehicle.  That far back, by the time you have the motor, batteries gas, etc, you could end up with a negative tongue weight, and you definitely don't want that.  Hit a bump and watch your boat pass you going down the road.

 

Have you moved the front winch/stop bracket as far forward as you can?

I see that's a galvanized trailer.  Are the axle hanging brackets bolted or welded on, it looks like they are bolted.  If they are bolted, you might want to look at moving the axle and fenders back some.  It looks like you have about four of five inches you might be able to move them back.

[Catt]

Yeah that's not good 

 

Mine extend 2" pasted the transom & are 8' in length for a 16' boat.

[Jigfishn10]

11 hours ago, Catt said:

Yeah that's not good 

 

Mine extend 2" pasted the transom & are 8' in length for a 16' boat.

Agree. 
NO BUENO!

[Alex from GA]

Like slow said have you moved the winch stand as far forward as you can?  If the bunks are on edge you can move them back, if they're not it won't do any good, they'll bend.  When you're not using the boat take the weight off the transom; put a box or some concrete blocks under the back and raise the jack.  Do you or any of your friends weld?  

[E-H]

Appreciate the info and questions.

 

Winch is as far front as it can go.  I never travel with anything in it and the boat is pretty light in the back.  The only extra weight is in the front where my nephew welded a part (25lbs) for my terrova.  It's an easy tow.  Total boat weight is about 215lbs with the mod.  I only drive it to the lake and leave it (6 hours each way) one time a year.  So the bunks will just be back an extra 2' to help the transom.

 

Knowing this info, do you guys really think this could be an issue towing it with the trailer (with the extended bunks)?  Hopefully the pics help paint the picture better. 

 

I could probably move the axle back a little bit.  Great idea.  That way I will only be extending the bunks about 16" or so vs. the 2'.

 

The only reason I am doing anything now is because the bunks are in bad shape, as you can see - stick badly. The new ones have good carpet on them.  I am going to use gulf wax on them to help me load and unload since it's typically just me out there on the water.

 

 

 

[E-H]

21 hours ago, Way2slow said:

Wow, with the boat sitting that far back on the trailer, you are going to have to be very careful how much weight is on the back of the boat.  You really don't won't to get below about 10 percent tongue weight or you run into the problem of the boat wanting to sway back and forth when towing.  That will eat up tires and can get dangerous, depending on the size and weight of the vehicle.  That far back, by the time you have the motor, batteries gas, etc, you could end up with a negative tongue weight, and you definitely don't want that.  Hit a bump and watch your boat pass you going down the road.

 

Have you moved the front winch/stop bracket as far forward as you can?

I see that's a galvanized trailer.  Are the axle hanging brackets bolted or welded on, it looks like they are bolted.  If they are bolted, you might want to look at moving the axle and fenders back some.  It looks like you have about four of five inches you might be able to move them back.

Thanks for the info.  I posted more info and pics above.

[Way2slow]

Just to haul the boat with no motor and batteries back there, just supporting it with better with bunks will probably work for you.  Just pay attention where you put stuff in it.  You will want to keep 30-50 pounds of tongue weight to may it tow properly.

 

Also, even if you add a motor, batteries etc to it, it's not a total loss.  It's more than simple enough to add a couple of extensions onto the back of that trailer and move the axle back more and get the weight distribution where you need it.  They can be welded by the right person, galvanizing is a problem to weld but it can be done.  They can also be made to bolt on, with a little smart fabrication.

Then you always have the option of selling that one and buying a longer one.

 

 

[E-H]

28 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

Just to haul the boat with no motor and batteries back there, just supporting it with better with bunks will probably work for you.  Just pay attention where you put stuff in it.  You will want to keep 30-50 pounds of tongue weight to may it tow properly.

 

Also, even if you add a motor, batteries etc to it, it's not a total loss.  It's more than simple enough to add a couple of extensions onto the back of that trailer and move the axle back more and get the weight distribution where you need it.  They can be welded by the right person, galvanizing is a problem to weld but it can be done.  They can also be made to bolt on, with a little smart fabrication.

Then you always have the option of selling that one and buying a longer one.

 

 

Sounds good.  The front is already the heaviest part of the boat with the mod.  I  never travel with anything in the boat so I should be good to go. 
 

I knew nothing about trailers when I bought it.  Hindsight I would have gotten a longer one better suited.  Not thrilled with the trailer place. I told them it was a 15 foot boat. 

 

I already replaced the lights with led so I will keep this one for a while unless I notice issues with it. 
 

Thanks again.
 

 

[Catt]

@E-H just curious but is the tongue (the whole thing) welded or bolted?

 

In the picture it appears bolted, if it is you may check into buying a new one.

[E-H]

45 minutes ago, Catt said:

@E-H just curious but is the tongue (the whole thing) welded or bolted?

 

In the picture it appears bolted, if it is you may check into buying a new one.

I will have to check in the morning.  Assuming that’s a really bad thing for trailers - cheap.  Remember my boat is only a couple hundred lbs. 

[Catt]

32 minutes ago, E-H said:

I will have to check in the morning.  Assuming that’s a really bad thing for trailers - cheap.  Remember my boat is only a couple hundred lbs. 

 

If you can buy either a new "tounge" or square tube that is longer which will move the axle backwards.

[Way2slow]

Catt's taking the easy way out, by just replacing the square/rectangle tube in the front with one two or three feet longer.  Actually I had my head up my butt, because I have done that on a couple of them.  Matter of fact, I have a piece of tubing left from doing one of my jon boat trailers several years ago.  It's almost as cheap to buy a full 20'-24' stick as is to buy a drop (a cut to length piece) so I always buy a stick of metal.  Actually, a lot of places are getting where they won't cut drops and you have to buy a stick, but it's not very expensive in a 16 gauge, which is probably all that is. Unless you try finding it in galvanized.

[E-H]

Great idea about the tongue.  It is bolted on so a longer piece would solve things long term. 
 

For now I am going to just add the new bunks and see how it goes.  Again the boat is 200 lbs or so and I put 12 hours on the trailer a year.  I might just trade it in down the road and get a better trailer.

 

The bunks will be vertical so they should hold behind the trailer a foot or so and help enough.

 

I can take a picture when I am done this weekend.

 

 I might move the axle back a little if the bolts come off easily.

 

Well changed my mind. I will look for a new longer tube for the front and put the bunks the way they were but have them extend forward more (2 ft).  I didn’t want to deal with another purchase or all the bolts but I have some time before I get it to the late and the boat on the water.  Might as well do it right. 

 

Best place for the new tube purchase?

[Way2slow]

You can go on line and check prices but shipping would eat your lunch.  Somewhere close to you, there's most likely a steel supply house.  You can double check the thickness of the walls on yours but my guess is, it's probably only about 16 gauge.  You can call around and ask if the sell drops cut to length, and what it cost vs what a whole stick cost..  Most places will make one cut for free so it's easier to haul, so give them the length you need for that one free cut, and then you will have a spare piece to lay around the house and rust.

 

By the way, the easiest way to haul it, take the boat off the trailer and use the boat trailer.  

[MN Fisher]

4 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

You can go on line and check prices but shipping would eat your lunch.  Somewhere close to you, there's most likely a steel supply house.  You can double check the thickness of the walls on yours but my guess is, it's probably only about 16 gauge.  You can call around and ask if the sell drops cut to length, and what it cost vs what a whole stick cost..  Most places will make one cut for free so it's easier to haul, so give them the length you need for that one free cut, and then you will have a spare piece to lay around the house and rust.

That's what I did with the canoe trailer - changed out the 5' front length for a 10'. 2"x3" 16gauge was $60. Matched up the front and rear ends, marked and drilled the holes and voila - 10' trailer became a 15' trailer for my 14' canoe.

[Catt]

@MN Fisher My exact plan ?

 

Another place you may want look is companies that sell material for building awnings. 

[MN Fisher]

4 minutes ago, Catt said:

@MN Fisher My exact plan ?

 

Another place you may want look is companies that sell material for building awnings. 

Ya - or a place that ships fairly inexpensively. I'm lucky that I have several local suppliers I can pick from...got mine from Cormark - which has another location in Fort Worth, TX (just an FYI)

[Catt]

13 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

I'm lucky that I have several local suppliers I can pick

 

Same down here, especially after 2 hurricanes there's a lot of awnings being rebuilt.

Edited March 20, 2021 by Catt
Operator Error

[Way2slow]

Might want to check the price of pressure treated 2x4's and a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet (they have that at Lowe's and HD also vs the cost of the steel.  Unless it has come down some, PT lumber has gotten almost like gold.  

[E-H]

Well - I looked at the wiring etc...and it would be a bit of work.   I decided to just try the new bunks extended.

 

Not sure exactly how to check the tongue weight but it's probably about 40 to 50 lbs by lifting it at the hitch area.

 

Here is the final product with the boat just being 8" total past the bunks.  That feels like 40-50 lbs when lifting it up when on the trailer.  Seems very balanced and the new bunks make it so much easier to load and unload on my own.

 

Appreciate all the help and advice.  All done.  If I have a problem I will get a tongue extension.