clearcoat question

[oakley]

I just bought a stratos and one side of the boat has a good shine but the other side is dull looking.  Does anyone know if there is anything that I can use to bring the shine back?

[Fishing Rhino]

You can buff it.  Be careful if you do.  If you use too aggressive a compound and too much pressure, you can buff through to the flake, if you have any.  Once you reach the flake, the color will come off and you'll have dull silver flakes.

I'd start by trying a cleaner glaze, and hand rubbing a small area.

If that doesn't do the job, try a swirl remover, and buff lightly.

When I'm buffing my molds, I use a spray bottle and water to keep misting the area I'm working.  It provides lubrication and reduces heat buildup.  

The other benefit is that as you work with the compound, it breaks down into ever finer particles, which will produce the ultimate shine, like that produced by a glaze or swirl remover.

Go slowly and use light pressure.  High rpms will do the job faster, but if you are not experienced, you can create excessive heat.

Keep it slow, the pressure light and spritz frequently.  

One more thing.  Use a high quality buffing pad, and keep it clean.  Using small amounts of compound and misting the surface will usually eliminate buildup on the pad.  

Any automotive paint shop should carry quality pads.  I use the yellow 3M pad.  They will also carry the star wheel tools for cleaning the pad.

You will need a good quality, variable speed buffer.  You should be able to rent one that has a threaded shaft.  With a threaded shaft, you can get a two sided buffer, and flip it over from time to time.  

You will do a better job of cleaning the pad when you turn it over, since it will be rotating against the way the fibers are laid over.  I prefer to clean it with the star wheel when the built up side is toward the buffer for that reason.

My guess is that the boat was parked with that side facing the sun, and the UV rays have dulled the finish.

The first rule is do not damage the finish.  Start off very lightly.  If you're not comfortable, or inexperienced with buffing, get some quotes from those who do that type of work.

While it may cost you a few or many bucks, if you damage the finish, you'll end up spending many times what you would save by doing the job yourself.

[Sfritr]

3 letters       BTS

[oakley]

Thanks for the advice guys,  I will give it a try this weekend

[Way2slow]

Fishing Rhino gave you some good advice, just be sure you understand the part about using a variable speed buffer or you will burn the gel coat.  I usually run mine at 1,200 rpm and never above 1,800.   If there is a rough texture to the bad side, it's already through the clear and into the color and metal flake.  Most anything you do is going to leave silver specks where it takes the color off flake if you try to make it smooth.

I use nothing but 3M products.  I use the fine cut buffing compound and both 3M machine glaze and the Hand Glaze.   I start by wet sanding with 2,000 grit wet/dry to take the dead gel off, buff it out with fine cut buffing compound.  You may see areas that still don't have a bright shine, I resand those and buff again.   When I have the gel shining nicely, I work a coat of machine glaze over the whole thing, using the hand glaze in areas that are difficult to get with the buffer.    

Understand, it's work, be careful and not go through the clear and when done, if done right, it will shine better than new.