painting gas tank area

[DMB Fan]

could someone link me to a thread or advice on what type of paint and prep work I might need to do to paint the inside of the gas tank/bilge pump area? I have a lot of spider web cranks and holes (from screws) that need to be filled. I cleaned the area with Simple Green but the fiber glass(?) still has an oily feel to it. Is there an offical name to this area. Thanks Guys.

[CGH]

I believe that it is call the Bilge area.

As far as that fiber glass still having an oily feel, Good Luck >

I tried everything under the sun and above it to no avail. I can get them clean but I can't get rid of that oily feel. If you figure out a way to do this please drop me a Line or 2

[Wayne P.]

For cleaning, try liquid dishwashing detergent. It will be "squeaky clean".

[bass or bass ?]

I used acetone, then detergent. Still stained looking, but very clean.

[DMB Fan]

Thanks Guys! Acetone was what I was trying to think of. Still trying to figure out what type of pimer and paint.

[TomDiBiasio]

Herculiner is what I plan to do mine with.  I just purchased a quart for $19 at walmart this week.  Can says that it is chemical resistant and gas and oil resistant.  As for a primer, I purchased a can of self etching primer by Rustolem.  Now my boat is aluminum in the bilge, so I am not sure if it will work on fiberglass.

Tough, durable, and most of all the bas tank will not slide around while trailering the boat.

[Chris W]

The problem with painting fiberglass is that fiberglass flexes paint not so much, the best thing to paint it with would be a polyurea type paint. The only problem with that is you cannot paint a polyurea it is a very specialized product that has to be applied with a sprayer designed only for it. It is very similar to the spray on bedliner that you see but without the texture and the weight. You might look around in your area and see if anyone applies this type of coating and see if you could work something out with them

[ohioriverrat]

Polyurethane paint (which is by far the very best solution to bilge area painting) is available in brush/roller or spray form. The following link has a good explanation of polyurethane paint. Read carefully- the stuff is not your average wall paint.

http://www.answers.com/topic/polyurethane-paint

I used this system on my bilge area, and I assure you it is fabulous stuff, albeit kind of pricy. I got mine from a local automotive paint supply (dedicated to ONLY paint products). They supply me with all my automotive paints (I paint cars for giggles) and since that is ALL they do, they are quite knowledgeable of their products. They can mix gloss for you, or satins, or flats- in any color you wish your bilge to be. They will steer you in the right direction.

Surface preparation is important when using any paint. The best way to clean the area is with a water based cleaner like Simple Green or Dawn dishwashing liquid (Dawn brand is the only one that cuts grease very well), flooding the area with water to wash off all residue. Do this at least twice. Let dry thoroughly for a couple days. But there is more prep

The surface will probably still feel waxy when you finish. This "wax" is the additive put in polyester resin for the top layer of fiberglass lay up. About the only way to get rid of the waxy feel is to scuff the area. IT is not affected by solvents. I used Scotchbrite brand pads (I used the green, and it took several of them). And finally

After the scuff, the area was wiped down twice with reducer (from the paint place). Lacquer thinner, acetone, or any non residual flashing solvent will also work. Do not use turpentine or paint thinner. I didn't tack it off like an automotive job. After all, it IS just the bilge area!

OK, with the prep work finally completed

It is not necessary to use a primer for this system. However, if a primer is desired, it must be compatible with the system. I find that it only adds to the cost of the job, and it really isn't needed, unless you have a RAW surface to paint.

Please realize that urethane paints can be an extreme health hazard. I always use a respirator (not a dust mask), and use a compressed air breathing system when spraying. Anyway, mix the two parts together EXACTLY like the mix sheet instructs (you will get a mix sheet from the paint guys when they sell you the paint. If you don't, ask for it) and brush or roll it on the surface. I always mix only enough to cover a few square feet at a time. You must work quickly as the solvents flash off rather quickly. You can buy retarders if you want a little more open time, but I never do.

If you do decide to go the urethane route, it'll be the last time you do the job. Urethanes are tough as nails (why airplanes are painted with it) and will look new for practically ever. It's a lot of work, but well worth the time if you want a premium job and finish that should last until you want a new boat!