What are your top three fluorocarbon lines and the worst?

[txchaser]

Tatsu mostly, and invisx sometimes when I think I need more stretch.

Mostly eliminated flouro when I don't need slack-line sensitivity though.

[WRB]

I hate FC line, poor knot strength.

I like FC line feedback for jigs.

It’s like handling a rattle snake it’s going to bite you when least expected.

Tried most brands with similar results.

Only evaluatecusing line diameter, # test varies greatly between brands. 

started in mid 90’s with Sunline Shooter .011/.012D FC 

, good line with random knot issues. Sunline Sniper .008 / .009D for finesse with good results, some knots and memory issues until using Tangle Free line conditioner and still use both.

Tried Seaguar Tatsu with no advantage over Sunline Shooter .012D, less abrasion resistance with less memory   , about equal knot performance. 

Black Water Torah Bass Superhard was good FC, price climbed $35/ 82 yards with marginal performance over Shooter or Tatsu. Giving Tatsu another try this year to see if abrasion resistance has improved.

No other brands come close to Sunline our Seaguar.

Tom 

 

[bulldog1935]

5 hours ago, WRB said:

I hate FC line, poor knot strength.

I like FC line feedback for jigs.

It’s like handling a rattle snake it’s going to bite you when least expected.

Tried most brands with similar results.

Only evaluatecusing line diameter, # test varies greatly between brands. 

started in mid 90’s with Sunline Shooter .011/.012D FC 

, good line with random knot issues. Sunline Sniper .008 / .009D for finesse with good results, some knots and memory issues until using Tangle Free line conditioner and still use both.

Tried Seaguar Tatsu with no advantage over Sunline Shooter .012D, less abrasion resistance with less memory   , about equal knot performance. 

Black Water Torah Bass Superhard was good FC, price climbed $35/ 82 yards with marginal performance over Shooter or Tatsu. Giving Tatsu another try this year to see if abrasion resistance has improved.

No other brands come close to Sunline our Seaguar.

Tom 

 

If you're pushing braid to its test limit, you need the added stretch of leader for shock resistance.  (a big snook will pop your low-test braid before the drag has time to pay)

Knots are also really important.  You think in terms of bigger is tougher, but the problem with knots can be having a load-point where a single bend of lower-diameter, even lower-test line wraps over a bend in the larger diameter line.  Even same composition, fluoro, mono, etc - the smaller diameter line can cut the larger diameter before you get anywhere near the line test.  

I know double-uni is really convenient, easy to tie when you need it, but it's the worst for the lower-test fluoro cutting through the higher-test.  

[WRB]

I don’t use braid to a FC leader. The knot to fail is the connection to the jig hook that is .047D to .011D FC.

Double knots like a Palomar are no stronger the single line knot like San Diego Jam and I tried and test nearly every knot used in fishing. The bass I catch out weight the line strength so everything must be perfect.

Snook are strong fish, not like Wahoo, tuna or marlin I’ve caught using FC line. 

The issue wear and tear from bottom contact structure when bass fishing. Open water presentations no issue but that isn’t where these big bass live.

Most anglers are using line 2 to3 times higher strength then the bass weigh, the knot strength margin shouldn’t be an issue but is as proved by the number of knots used to solve the problem.

Kine stretch isn’t a issue, set the drag and learn to use the rod to fight fish. FC, copolymer and Nylon mono all have good impact strength, the drag should slip long before the line breaks if the hasn’t been damaged.

When we spool line on the reel the crosses over itself, not precision spooled. Time under pressure cold flows all plastics. The force of timing knots cold flows and deforms the FC or any monofilament. We call deformation notch strength and lines are not equal. When line is made it’s extruded into a round shape drawn to size the diameter. Higher end processing tends to have better diameter controls eliminating thin and thicker areas. The line is precision spooled to reduce any cross overs to cold flow during storage. You get what you pay for with Seaguar and Sunline FC.

Tom

PS, never leave a knot tied over night and re tie if you feel or see any damage.

Been known to re tie after 1 cast if the line doesn’t look right, usually about every hour as a habit. Too late after you hook a big bass.

 

 

[ChrisD46]

I only have two :

1) Tatsu

2a) InvizX

2b) AbrazX

2c) Sniper

2d) Shooter

[ChrisD46]

Has anyone tried P-Line FC line ? I'm also curious about the new Strike King FC line and the Sufix Advance FC lines ? ... Gama Edge appears to be a solid FC line but may not be any better than Sunline or Seaguar FC lines and is harder to find (unless ordering on line) .

[roadwarrior]

Tatsu is THE BOMB!

 

Gold Label for leader

[Blaine Donders]

PLine Halo

All Seaguar

Sniper

Top Knot

Trilene 100%

 

All have worked good for me. Really line Halo though.
 

[Gary_Snyder]

On 1/28/2021 at 7:11 AM, bulldog1935 said:

With Seaguar Tatsu, you can gain a little less line memory at almost 3X the cost.

That's exactly why I never tried it - a little less memory is not necessary for me when it comes to fluoro.

I would stay away from cheap Fluoros such as regular Vanish, and Fluorocast. They don't hold up long and get weak.

 

I Like Vanish Transition - it's a totally different line than regular Vanish. I use it because it's strong and it's fluorescent, so I can see it.

 

I'm not sure I like the Transition colors though, so I may try Sunline Night Fluorocarbon someday.

[roadwarrior]

Seaguar InvizX for spinning tackle and AbrazX for baitcasters are affordable

alternatives to Tatsu.

 

?

[Deplorable Fisherman]

Best: Trilene 100%  Trilene 100% and Trilene 100%

 

Worst: Anything Sufix 

 

I've gone through dozens of brands and their different iterations of fluoro and Trilene 100% fluoro is without a doubt the best I've used.

I'm still cussing over lost fish and lures from using Sufix trash and it's been a couple of years since I spooled it up.

[snake95]

22 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

Seaguar InvizX for spinning tackle and AbrazX for baitcasters are affordable

alternatives to Tatsu.

@roadwarrior

 

Several years ago you were recommending YZH 6 and 12 lb as good multipurpose lines, with line conditioner as needed. I took your advice back then and was happy I did.

 

With the clear understanding that YZH is not fluoro - and it has great knot strength and is thicker than a comparable "rated" mono...

 

With the passage of time, these days would you default to InvizX and AbrazX instead of YZH?

 

I'm talking for the avid angler but weekend warrior here, not necessarily a serious tournament angler.

 

 

 

 

 

[roadwarrior]

1 hour ago, snake95 said:

@roadwarrior

 

Several years ago you were recommending YZH 6 and 12 lb as good multipurpose lines, with line conditioner as needed. I took your advice back then and was happy I did.

 

With the clear understanding that YZH is not fluoro - and it has great knot strength and is thicker than a comparable "rated" mono...

 

With the passage of time, these days would you default to InvizX and AbrazX instead of YZH?

 

I'm talking for the avid angler but weekend warrior here, not necessarily a serious tournament angler.

 

Although I have for the most part converted to Seaguar, I would still

recommend Yo-Zuri Hybrid as an affordable alternative. Specifically

I like #4 (8.5 lb breaking strength) for spinning tackle and #12 (19.5)

for baitcasting.

 

 

[MN Fisher]

4 minutes ago, roadwarrior said:

Specifically I like #4 (8.5 lb breaking strength) for spinning tackle and #12 (19.5)

for baitcasting.

I'm down to one rig with YZH - 12# on my cranking BC. Some say it floats, but from my observations if it does, it's not as buoyant as nylon-mono...closer to neutral buoyancy, which helps keep crankbaits at proper depths.

 

I'll be trying Tatsu (gifted to me) AbrasX (also gifted) and InvizX this year, see if the 'bad taste' for FC left by my experiments with Vanish and Fluorocast a couple years ago goes away.

[BBuck]

I don't have three, but I can tell you from my experience, Seaguar Red Label has never failed me, but Vanish is straight trash. 

[rtwvumtneer6]

Seaguar and Sunline.  

 

Done wasting money trying to find a budget fluorocarbon.  

 

-RT

[Boomstick]

Top fluorocarbon lines I've tried so far:

 

#1) Berkley Trilene 100% Flurocarbon. I buy it buy one get one free from BPS/Cabelas every year during their spring sale, it's strong, casts well and the knot strength is great. The downside is that it's as thick as thick mono.

 

#2) Seaguar Blue Label. I haven't tried the gold yet, but this has been my go to leader line for a few years now.

 

#3) Seaguar InvisX. Strong, reliable, casts well, acceptable knot strength and a thinner diameter.

 

I will be trying some Daiwa J-Fluoro Samurai this year, and I got some Sunline Sniper FC for my oldest son to try out. I will probably pick up some 12lb Assassin too for him to try with crankbaits, lighter T-Rigs and finesse jigs as well. One of these days I'll get around to trying Shooter and Tatsu.

 

The worst fluorocarbon line I have used is Berkley Vanish. I bought some at Walmart when I was in a pinch, it doesn't handle very well and it doesn't hold up to abrasion at all.

 

If you count copoly lines, I'd have to say that P-Line floroclear is almost certainly much worse. I didn't try it for myself, but I bought some based on tackletour's review for my oldest son and he instantly had issues casting and he typically casts extremely well. Plus when he picked out a birds nest, the line would coil and that made it easy for it to knot itself when pulled out. I went home and ordered some Yo Zuri Hybrid and never had problems like that again.

6 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

I'll be trying Tatsu (gifted to me) AbrasX (also gifted) and InvizX this year, see if the 'bad taste' for FC left by my experiments with Vanish and Fluorocast a couple years ago goes away.

I would recommend a uni knot. I can tell you from experience you'll be fine with InvizX but I have no doubts about the Tatsu and AbrazX either. Even Red Label is passable for a cheaper line, but the step up to InvixX is definitely worth it.

[MN Fisher]

5 minutes ago, Boomstick said:

I would recommend a uni knot.

I'll be testing initially with the 'Multifile Knoten' I've tooted around here. It's very similar to a Uni, and has yet to fail me whether it's been mono, hybrid or braid I've tied with it.

[Boomstick]

7 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

I'll be testing initially with the 'Multifile Knoten' I've tooted around here. It's very similar to a Uni, and has yet to fail me whether it's been mono, hybrid or braid I've tied with it.

That's also known as the improved uni. That's probably the strongest knot out there and will definitely work as well but wastes a lot of line and is a little bit slower to tie. I just use a 4-6 turn uni because that's been adequate for me.

[MN Fisher]

3 minutes ago, Boomstick said:

That's also known as the improved uni. That's probably the strongest knot out there and will definitely work as well but wastes a lot of line and is a little bit slower to tie. I just use a 4-6 turn uni because that's been adequate for me.

I dunno about the line waste - I end up cutting less of a tag tying that one than tying a Palomar on a bare hook, much less a Palomar on something like a 5" jerkbait. It's all in how much of a tag you start with and how you tighten it down.

[Boomstick]

2 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

I dunno about the line waste - I end up cutting less of a tag tying that one than tying a Palomar on a bare hook, much less a Palomar on something like a 5" jerkbait. It's all in how much of a tag you start with and how you tighten it down.

You've clearly gotten good at it. I can tie a regular uni and waste less than an inch of line with a regular uni, with an improved uni I'm not that great at estimating it so it's usually a few inches.

[MN Fisher]

5 minutes ago, Boomstick said:

You've clearly gotten good at it. I can tie a regular uni and waste less than an inch of line with a regular uni, with an improved uni I'm not that great at estimating it so it's usually a few inches.

It's usually an inch or less of tag I'm cutting off. It's become my default knot for all terminal connections other than a snell - and there I use the Uni-snell.

[txchaser]

I know we've wandered a little into knot land, but for what it's worth the San Diego Jam knot has been far better for me on flouro than anything else. And on tatsu 15 the double SDJ is stronger... I had to know so I tested it enough times to be really sure - tied both ends to a 3/0 hook, single on one end and double on the other, and the double won every time. Maybe just the way I tie it, so YMMV, and it is important enough to test. 

 

One trick I picked up for the SDJ - use the tag end to dress the knot, not the main line. It'll be much cleaner. Then work the not-yet-all-the-way-tight knot down to the hook, pull on the tag one more time for some final tightening, again on the main line, and your done. Sounds like a lot of fiddling, but it's really just pull, slide, pull, pull. You'll know it is snug enough when the part around the hook binds and won't rotate.

 

[J Francho]

23 hours ago, snake95 said:

@roadwarrior

 

Several years ago you were recommending YZH 6 and 12 lb as good multipurpose lines, with line conditioner as needed. I took your advice back then and was happy I did.

 

With the clear understanding that YZH is not fluoro - and it has great knot strength and is thicker than a comparable "rated" mono...

 

With the passage of time, these days would you default to InvizX and AbrazX instead of YZH?

 

I'm talking for the avid angler but weekend warrior here, not necessarily a serious tournament angler.

 

23 hours ago, roadwarrior said:

 

Although I have for the most part converted to Seaguar, I would still

recommend Yo-Zuri Hybrid as an affordable alternative. Specifically

I like #4 (8.5 lb breaking strength) for spinning tackle and #12 (19.5)

for baitcasting.

 

 

 

This is a great point about evolving tastes and opinions.  You could substitute P-Line CXX for around 1/2 the times RW recommended YZH.  Same caveats: use line conditioner, look at the line diameter, etc.  I would still recommend 20-25# CXX for any swimbaits over 1 oz.  For everything else that doesn't require braid, I've totally replaced it with Invisx or Tatsu.  If you had asked me the same question in 1998, I would have said Trilene 8# XL for spinning and 17# XT for casting.  

 

I think it's cool that you can still get al of theis, and you really can't go wrong with the recommendations from years past.  It's just so much better now, with what I'm using.

[roadwarrior]

40 minutes ago, J Francho said:

If you had asked me the same question in 1998, I would have said Trilene 8# XL for spinning and 17# XT for casting.  

 Brothers from different mothers. Xl & XT for me until I discovered P-Line CXX.

Yo-Zuri came into play several years later. Now Seaguar...I wonder what's next?