How expensive is it to own a bass boat?(maintenance related)

[NavyVet1204]

As someone who is looking at getting my first bass boat along with having never owned a boat with a motor to boot, what kind of maintenance costs am I looking at? I do have a good understanding of mechanical things as per my trade and all but as long as the boat is under warranty I’d rather a dealer service it in under those terms. 
 

I have an older friend whose boat is well maintained year around and he was telling me that he pays a tech to come to his lake home and services his boat right there in the water for approximately $300-$400 each time and says it’s just a “good tune up”. I understand that a new boat will/should have recommended service intervals. My work schedule may or may not allow for me to fish as much as I want all depending on the economy at any given time so I may not meet hourly interval recommendations, but none the less I do want my boat to run like a top at any of those given times respectively. 
 

Edit: B.O.A.T- Break Out Another Thousand. Is that just a common thought from people who don’t properly maintain a boat? My friend I mentioned above pays that fee once a year and his boat runs great all year even after it hangs in his covered dock during his “off season”.

[Bolar]

Annual engine oil and gear oil, filters, grease for the trailer bearings.  Occasional plugs, impeller for the water pump...according to your owners manual.  If you do it yourself maintenance shouldn't be that expensive.  If you take it somewhere, your paying for those items and their time.  $300-400 seems like a lot to me, but I do my own oil.  Also, your engine size is going to make a difference in what you pay.  If you have a place in mind for service, check their fees.

 

 

[J Francho]

31 minutes ago, NavyVet1204 said:

B.O.A.T- Break Out Another Thousand. Is that just a common thought from people who don’t properly maintain a boat?

No.  It means if something goes wrong despite your maintenance it will generally run $1000.  However, it seems like that has to go up.  Some maintenance costs go up with usage, some are fixed, seasonal expenses.  Overall, for me it never seemed that bad.  Figure around 15% of what you spend on gas and oil for the year as a spitball figure.

[gim]

The bigger the boat, generally, the more it will cost to run and maintain.  Its just like comparing a sedan to a full size truck.  It takes more gasoline and tires cost more.

 

A new boat should, in theory, have less problems than an older one.  You can expect to pay preventative maintenance associated costs every year at a minimum.  Plus insurance if your state requires it and should you want it.  A lot will depend on where you live too.  Some places just cost more and some are less.

 

I pay annual winterization costs, insurance, and indoor winter storage fees ever year at a minimum assuming there are no major expenses.

[Jig Man]

I owned my last boat 14 years.  It was a 20’ with a 225 hp 2 stroke engine.  I had it serviced yearly.  It usually cost me under $200.

 

My current boat is four years old with a 200 with a 250 hp four stroke engine.  I have it serviced yearly.  It has been coating a little over $200 because of the engine oil change.

 

I use mfg additives every time I add gasoline.  I also run 91 octane non ethanol gasoline.

 

My greatest expense is insurance.

[Way2slow]

Biggest thing is the age and condition of the boat and motor to start with.  The older, the more apt it is to break. It's the breakdown repairs the eat your lunch, not the factory recommended maintenance.

A whole lot of people over maintain their boats/motors.  There are a lot of things people do annually that does not need to be done, but it gives the peace of mind they've done all they can do to prevent a breakdown. 

Four stroke motor is more expensive to maintain because of the oil changes etc, but, at the same time your not having to buy that high price two stroke oil at the rate of approximately a gallon for every 50 gallons of gas you burn, and with most outboard, it really doesn't take that long to burn 50 gallons of gas.  Again, depending on the size but most larger outboards can burn 10 - 20 gallons of gas and hour. Older, large, two stroke motors can burn more than that.

A lot of the factory recommended maintenance can easily be performed by the operator.  Every three years or so, the water pump impeller needs to be changed, again, not a major task if you are familiar with it, but many let the shop do it.  That alone can be several hundred dollars.

In cold climates, winterizing is a must, again,, something you can do yourself, but many have a shop to do it.  That can run a few hundred bucks.

Also, you said your buddy says they service his at the lake, if they don't have a way of getting the boat out of the water, he's getting ripped off, there's a lot of stuff that can't be done with the boat in the water or over the water in a boat house, it has to be out on dry land.

[Michigander]

I have an older boat (20+ years old) and every spring I replace and/or upgrade stuff that either failed the previous season or is looking like it will fail soon. Last year it was redoing all the fuel lines and rebuilding a trailer. Year before it was redoing all the oil lines in the motor and replacing busted latchea. This year it is a total rewire and replacing all the seals around the hatches.

 

If I had a new boat, theoretically I wouldn't have to do these things but what money I was saving from decreased maintenance would be going to the boat loan. So it's going to get me either way, lol.

[NavyVet1204]

20 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

Biggest thing is the age and condition of the boat and motor to start with.  The older, the more apt it is to break. It's the breakdown repairs the eat your lunch, not the factory recommended maintenance.

A whole lot of people over maintain their boats/motors.  There are a lot of things people do annually that does not need to be done, but it gives the peace of mind they've done all they can do to prevent a breakdown. 

Four stroke motor is more expensive to maintain because of the oil changes etc, but, at the same time your not having to buy that high price two stroke oil at the rate of approximately a gallon for every 50 gallons of gas you burn, and with most outboard, it really doesn't take that long to burn 50 gallons of gas.  Again, depending on the size but most larger outboards can burn 10 - 20 gallons of gas and hour. Older, large, two stroke motors can burn more than that.

A lot of the factory recommended maintenance can easily be performed by the operator.  Every three years or so, the water pump impeller needs to be changed, again, not a major task if you are familiar with it, but many let the shop do it.  That alone can be several hundred dollars.

In cold climates, winterizing is a must, again,, something you can do yourself, but many have a shop to do it.  That can run a few hundred bucks.

Also, you said your buddy says they service his at the lake, if they don't have a way of getting the boat out of the water, he's getting ripped off, there's a lot of stuff that can't be done with the boat in the water or over the water in a boat house, it has to be out on dry land.

He said the guy does it right where it sits which was in the water when he told me, but he has a lift in his dock house that he uses to lift out of the water as well. He could very well have meant that he lifts it for the tech.

22 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

Biggest thing is the age and condition of the boat and motor to start with.  The older, the more apt it is to break. It's the breakdown repairs the eat your lunch, not the factory recommended maintenance.

A whole lot of people over maintain their boats/motors.  There are a lot of things people do annually that does not need to be done, but it gives the peace of mind they've done all they can do to prevent a breakdown. 

Four stroke motor is more expensive to maintain because of the oil changes etc, but, at the same time your not having to buy that high price two stroke oil at the rate of approximately a gallon for every 50 gallons of gas you burn, and with most outboard, it really doesn't take that long to burn 50 gallons of gas.  Again, depending on the size but most larger outboards can burn 10 - 20 gallons of gas and hour. Older, large, two stroke motors can burn more than that.

A lot of the factory recommended maintenance can easily be performed by the operator.  Every three years or so, the water pump impeller needs to be changed, again, not a major task if you are familiar with it, but many let the shop do it.  That alone can be several hundred dollars.

In cold climates, winterizing is a must, again,, something you can do yourself, but many have a shop to do it.  That can run a few hundred bucks.

Also, you said your buddy says they service his at the lake, if they don't have a way of getting the boat out of the water, he's getting ripped off, there's a lot of stuff that can't be done with the boat in the water or over the water in a boat house, it has to be out on dry land.

I quite honestly would probably be one of those who over maintain as you stated simply because I would have a note on it to begin with. I am a do it yourself type with almost everything that comes my way, but again the warranty is why I would let the shop do it.

[TnRiver46]

It’s like owning a car that you don’t drive everyday. It will mess up, just be ready! There is no way to predict how much it costs, Murphy’s law is the main variable 

[J Francho]

I found this video, which may be helpful.  Not everything applies to a bass boat, but there's some good advice to help build your perspective:

 

 

[NavyVet1204]

18 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I found this video, which may be helpful.  Not everything applies to a bass boat, but there's some good advice to help build your perspective:

 

 

Thank you!

[gim]

1 hour ago, TnRiver46 said:

It’s like owning a car that you don’t drive everyday.

 

That is a good way of describing it.  Its basically a third vehicle that gets used less.  Still needs to be maintained so it can be used when desired.

[Captain Phil]

Over the years I have owned just about every boat imaginable.  From an 8' boat I built myself out of plywood to a 40 ft. twin diesel sportfish.  If you must pay someone else to work on your boat, you are going to pay a lot more than if you do the work yourself.  Don't buy an old boat blindly no matter how great the owner tells you it is. Some years ago, boat manufacturers quit using wood in boats and switched to composite materials.  You don't want a boat with any structural wood under the fiberglass.  If you are going to buy a used boat, buy a quality boat less than ten years old.  I bought a 18' Skeeter Bass boat in 2,000 and ran it constantly for ten years. Except for a few scratches, the hull looked like new when I sold it.  Before you buy, look at other boats of the same age and make.  This will tell you how they hold up.

 

Modern outboard engines are so much better than old engines there is no comparison.  Buying an old two stroke outboard is asking for trouble.  Four strokes are the way to go.  They use less fuel and hardly ever break.  Change the oil when you are suppose to and you should be fine.  I change my own oil and it's a piece of cake.  Paying a factory trained mechanic to check out the motor before you buy is worth the investment.  The biggest problem with boats is corrosion.  Old boats will almost always have bad wiring connectors.  This issue is on going and there is not much you can do about it other than spraying your connectors with WD40. 

 

Another issue is lack of use.  A boat that is used more will have less maintenance problems than a boat that sits for months at a time.   A boat that looks like a bargain may not be one.  Always buy the best quality you can afford.  Get used to the idea that you will spend a considerable amount of time and money working on your boat.  If this concerns you,  use OPBs (other people's boat).

[NavyVet1204]

21 minutes ago, Captain Phil said:

Over the years I have owned just about every boat imaginable.  From an 8' boat I built myself out of plywood to a 40 ft. twin diesel sportfish.  If you must pay someone else to work on your boat, you are going to pay a lot more than if you do the work yourself.  Don't buy an old boat blindly no matter how great the owner tells you it is. Some years ago, boat manufacturers quit using wood in boats and switched to composite materials.  You don't want a boat with any structural wood under the fiberglass.  If you are going to buy a used boat, buy a quality boat less than ten years old.  I bought a 18' Skeeter Bass boat in 2,000 and ran it constantly for ten years. Except for a few scratches, the hull looked like new when I sold it.  Before you buy, look at other boats of the same age and make.  This will tell you how they hold up.

 

Modern outboard engines are so much better than old engines there is no comparison.  Buying an old two stroke outboard is asking for trouble.  Four strokes are the way to go.  They use less fuel and hardly ever break.  Change the oil when you are suppose to and you should be fine.  I change my own oil and it's a piece of cake.  Paying a factory trained mechanic to check out the motor before you buy is worth the investment.  The biggest problem with boats is corrosion.  Old boats will almost always have bad wiring connectors.  This issue is on going and there is not much you can do about it other than spraying your connectors with WD40. 

 

Another issue is lack of use.  A boat that is used more will have less maintenance problems than a boat that sits for months at a time.   A boat that looks like a bargain may not be one.  Always buy the best quality you can afford.  Get used to the idea that you will spend a considerable amount of time and money working on your boat.  If this concerns you,  use OPBs (other people's boat).

Thank you as well as others here who have given me the advice and insight so far. I’m capping my budget for a new boat at $20k and was wondering...if it were your money...what would you buy?

@Captain Phil

[Way2slow]

One thing I should have mentioned.  It's not the maintenance that makes one expensive.  

It's when the new wears off and you've found out how much it cost to go fishing in it each time.  That's when they start getting expensive. 

You look and see it just sitting there and how much it's costing you each month in payments and insurance, that's when it starts getting expensive.  

Then you decide you will get rid of it to get out from under that monthly waste.  That's when it really gets expensive.  You find out it's only worth about 3/4ths of what you owe on it and it's going to cost you a few thousand out of your pocket just to get rid of it.

[NavyVet1204]

6 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

One thing I should have mentioned.  It's not the maintenance that makes one expensive.  

It's when the new wears off and you've found out how much it cost to go fishing in it each time.  That's when they start getting expensive. 

You look and see it just sitting there and how much it's costing you each month in payments and insurance, that's when it starts getting expensive.  

Then you decide you will get rid of it to get out from under that monthly waste.  That's when it really gets expensive.  You find out it's only worth about 3/4ths of what you owe on it and it's going to cost you a few thousand out of your pocket just to get rid of it.

I appreciate that friend.

[Shimano_1]

All gonna depend on several factors.  My rig is still pretty new so all I need to do is an oil change and the 4 stroke is good for the year. Trailer has vault hubs so probably 5 years or so of little to no maintenance.  Obviously assuming I keep it those costs will go up as the rig gets older. Actual maintenance costs will never be crazy but actual repairs are pretty costly.  Id say 3-400 is a little steep depending on what ur willing to do urself.  I change my fluids and such myself.  Id say my oil change and lower unit fluid change may set me back 80 bucks or so. 

[mcipinkie]

Let me add what little I know, and may bring to the discussion

 

I have a Yamaha 200 HP SHO that I bought exactly a year ago. 

 

The fluids, parts, etc for the 100 hour maintenance are $311.80 from Partsvu.  Probably take a good day to to perform in the yard since this would the first time I've worked on a SHO.

 

An oil change kit alone is $116.    A gear lube kit is $94, but it's out of stock.

 

I could have done the old HPDI for well under $100.These new high tech motors are very expensive to maintain.

[Captain Phil]

15 hours ago, NavyVet1204 said:

Thank you as well as others here who have given me the advice and insight so far. I’m capping my budget for a new boat at $20k and was wondering...if it were your money...what would you buy?

@Captain Phil

 

I would look for a quality brand used boat owned by someone who loved and cared for it.   The best used boats were owned by retirees who have passed or can no longer use it.  They are normally well maintained with low hours.  There are a lot of those in Florida.  I would want a boat from a well known manufacturer that is still in business.  I would want a boat that had been garaged. I wouldn't buy a fiberglass boat with serious stress cracks.  If it's a bass boat, the condition of the carpet will tell you a lot about the boat's history.  What engine you buy will be based on the availability of service.  Mercury and Yamaha are the best in this regard.  It is better to buy a used boat with a smaller engine than a racer.  Maintenance will be less and the motor will most likely have lower hours. 

 

Aluminum boats are inexpensive, easy to trailer, light and generally have smaller engines.  I ran an 18' Lowe side console aluminum boat for a number of years. It was a good boat.  It was not the best boat in rough water.  My Skeeter was the best bass boat I ever owned.  It was an 18' fiberglass bass boat with a 150 Yamaha Pro Max.  I ran the heck out of that boat and it never let me down.  

 

With the price of new boats these days, I doubt I would buy new.  I could write the check, but it would keep me up at night.  My buddy just bought a 20' Skeeter with all the bells and whistles for $60K.  I paid $11,000 for my used pontoon boat and I catch more fish than he does.  If you have the money to spend, there is nothing wrong with using it to make you happy.  Personally, I can't see the value in shelling out $60K to catch fish a foot long.  When I was young, I would have thought differently. 

 

Once this Covid-19 stuff is over, I suspect the market will be flooded with used boats.  So many people bought boats who will park them behind their house.  May be better to wait a little?

 

 

[roadwarrior]

1 hour ago, Captain Phil said:

I paid $11,000 for my used pontoon boat and I catch more fish than he does.  

As I have gotten older, the "floating dock" became a better option. My pontoon

fits me and my fishing partners like a glove! I co-own the boat with my friend 

at Pickwick and he has indoor storing capacity. The cost of ownership and

maintenace is low.

[Captain Phil]

1 hour ago, roadwarrior said:

As I have gotten older, the "floating dock" became a better option. My pontoon

fits me and my fishing partners like a glove! I co-own the boat with my friend 

at Pickwick and he has indoor storing capacity. The cost of ownership and

maintenace is low.

 

I always thought pontoon boats were for people who were not that serious about bass fishing.   The problem has always been how to control and position the boat?  A pontoon boat would always blow into the wrong bank and fishing in the wind was nearly impossible.  This issue has been solved by the new GPS trolling motors.  I installed a Minn Kota Trevora on my pontoon.  It's like having a guide run the boat for me.  The anchor lock feature is amazing.  It holds the boat in position at the touch of a button.  This lets me fight fish instead of fighting the boat.  If you are going to trailer your boat, you don't want a pontoon.  The guy I bought my pontoon from sold it for that reason.  My pontoon is moored in a marina on Little Lake Harris.  At my age, it doesn't get much better than that.

[roadwarrior]

Trailering is a BIG issue.  It's a two man job just to get hooked up. Then you have

put-in and take-out which is VERY challenging for one old man.

[Way2slow]

First, let me say, I have not owned a new boat since I got married in 1969.  There's nothing about one I can't fix myself so I have no problem buying somebody else's junk for a nickel or dime on the dollar, fix it up for little of nothing, use them until I found a buyer, make a couple thousand and buy another.  I've probably owned close to 100 boats in my lifetime doing that.

I guess I would have to change that to a 75, since it's seems most tin cans that size are not rated for a 90.  

 

Now, here's when my thoughts are on a new boat or make suggestion to someone that has never owned a boat.  I would start off with something like a 17.5 - 18' aluminum with a 90hp motor  Mercury, Yamaha or Honda.  Those three have excellent reputations.  The Suzuki seems to be pretty good also, but never had any dealing with one of those.  I think Honda is about the champ in the four stroke world, they've been doing it a long time.

 

Fiberglass boats look nicer, and ride a lot better, and that's that's about all I have ever owned, for a bass boat.  The problem with glass boats,, they have gotten very expensive to make, they are heavier than aluminum and when you get into the 18' range, even though they a done a lot to trim weight off them, they are still heavy enough you will just about need a full size truck to safely tow one, mostly for getting one stopped in a panic situation.  I've had a 18' Stratos with a tow weight of approx 3,100 pounds, push me completely through an intersection a car ran the light on and stopped in front of me, and just by the grace of god, I managed to avoid them at the last second, while towing it with a 4WD Toyota pickup.  There was a young girl on the back seat looking straight at me as I was sliding toward her door.  Totally not fun.

So, while shopping, you need to consider what you are going to be towing it with, because you average mid size vehicle is not going to be able to handle much;

Since I'm doing very little fishing now, I'm going to 24' pontoon I recently bought.  Something the family and relatives can go to the lake in and just enjoy a day on the lake.  However, I also know of several guides that use pontoons and say they wouldn't use anything else, gonna find out.

[J Francho]

2 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

However, I also know of several guides that use pontoons and say they wouldn't use anything else, gonna find out.

Honestly, it's not a bad deal when you've got retired age passengers, people with mobility issues, or kids that want to try fishing.  Adults in the middle (18-60) with no mobility issues seem to be able to adapt to fishing boat conditions well.  When they're bored of fishing, there are plenty of other boating activities to do on your floating living room.  

[Dwight Hottle]

If I had to put a dollar figure on yearly maintenance for a used boat $500 would not be unreasonable especially if you live in a northern climate where winterization to protect from freezing is necessary. If you budget with that amount each year & don't spend it all you can always allow the extra to ride in the kitty to help with unexpected repairs. The amount you actually spend yearly will vary with how much maintenance you can perform personally based on your time constraints. Marine shop labor starts around $60 per hour & up if you have to pay someone else to do the work.