Fast action vs mod fast

[GoneFishingLTN]

Taper

Moderate Fast

Line Weight

8-15lb

Lure Weight

1/4-3/4oz

Guides

9+Tip

Handle Length

***/2"

Is the rod I have but everything I read says to use a fast action is there a big difference if so what exactly is it I think I know the tip responds faster with a fast action but what does that exactly mean

[MN Fisher]

This is my opinion/experience

 

1) A mod-fast action is preferred for treble lures - cranks, topwaters, etc - helps soften the blow of a hookset.

2) A fast action is what you want for large, single hook lures - jigs, chatters, spinners, etc - helps drive that larger hook in solid.

 

You can use that mod-fast for the single hook lures, but you'll have to give it a harder 'whack' to set the hook solid.

If you have a fast action, then you'll want to soften the hookset with treble lures.

 

Just my $.02

 

 

[WRB]

Go online and search fishing rod action. There are several charts illustrating how the fishing rod bends indication “action”. Generally extra fast is tip bends down towards the rod handle between 15-20% before the lower rod starts to bend. Fast between 20-25%, moderate 25-35% parabolic or slow 40-50%

It is easier to cast a rod that has more bend or in the moderate action then a fast action rod because the release point is wider and more forgiving.

Tom

[MickD]

I think power is being ignored.  You cannot really discuss performance of a rod without considering both power and action.  It's power that drives a hook home. 

 

Action just describes where in the rod does the rod bend.  Slow means throughout the whole length of the rod, right into the grip most likely.  Extra fast means mostly just at the tip.

 

 

 

[jimmyjoe]

   Everything you read says to use a fast action FOR WHAT? 

 

   Action is the point on the blank where it bends under load.

  

   Power is HOW MUCH force is necessary to start that bend.

 

   Just to throw another monkey wrench into the works: action says nothing about how soft or stiff that tip is. You can have a fast action rod with a soft tip, or you can have a fast action rod with a stiff tip.

   @MickD finally got that through my head. Thanks, Mick!   ?     jj

 

p.s. - this also does not address the "speed" of the rod, which is how fast it will come back to center if the load is removed. Nor does it address settling time, which is how soon it stops "vibrating" after it has been deflected from center rest.

[WRB]

Agree, action is easier to define via a chart. Power on the other hand is subjective without a agreed rating.

Fenwick was one of the 1st rod makers in the 60’s to list power as maximum lifting force;

1 power or Light lifts 1 pound

2 power or Medium Light 2 pounds

3 power or Medium 3 pounds

4 power or Medium Heavy 4 pounds

5 power or Heavy 5 pounds

6 power or XHeavy 6 pounds.

This objective power rating works good for a ball park today.

Tom

[Eric 26]

Not sure but that description sounds a lot like the Lews TP1 7’3” rod that I also have. I bought mine for “treble baits”  mostly crank baits as MN Fisher points out. When I first researched my particular rod I read a review where someone brought up its merits as a “chatterbait” rod. If you find a recent post about “chatterbait” rods  here you will see the varying opinions on power and actions not to mention materials used and a number of different opinions. I agree with all the responses given so far and hopefully I didn’t muddy the waters to badly with my 2 cents.

Edited January 13, 2021 by Eric 26
Spelling error

[MN Fisher]

2 minutes ago, Eric 26 said:

Not sure but that description sounds a lot like the Lews TP1 7’3” rod that I also have. I bought mine for “treble baits”  mostly crank baits as MN Fisher points out. When I first researched my particular rod I read a review where someone brought up its merits as a “chatterbait” rod. If you find a recent post about “chatterbait” rods  here you will see the varying opinions on power and actions not to mention materials used and a number of different opinions. I agree with all three responses given so far and hopefully I didn’t muddy the waters to badly with my 2 cents.

Looking closer at the stats - that looks like a Medium power (Dobyns 3-power)

 

I would limit the lures on that to 5/8oz max for treble lures, 1/4oz max for jigs, chatters, spinners remembering that the printed weight is only for the head - hook, blades, skirts, etc are on top of that...and adding a trailer would bring it close to the max rating for the rod.

[GoneFishingLTN]

The rod listed is chatterbait rod Bryan thrift series Fitzgerald. I’m reading techniques such as tailspinners and slow rolling spinner baits and finesse jigs 

[WRB]

What line does Bryan Thrift use in this bait casting rod?

I will take a WAG it’s braid or braid with a leader.

Tom

[jimmyjoe]

  Is this 6'-09" rod that's at the top of the listings the same rod you're asking about?

 

   https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Fitzgerald_Fishing_Bryan_Thrift_Series_Casting_Rods/descpage-FBTCR.html

 

   If it is, that's a good chatterbait rod. You mentioned that you're "reading techniques such as tailspinners and slow rolling spinner baits and finesse jigs". The only place I can see comments like that are in the reviews on the actual Fitzgerald Rods website. 

   Remember one thing about reviews: anyone can say anything they like, but that doesn't mean that YOU would necessarily like the rod for the same thing if you were to fish with it.    jj

[GoneFishingLTN]

2 hours ago, jimmyjoe said:

  Is this 6'-09" rod that's at the top of the listings the same rod you're asking about?

 

   https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Fitzgerald_Fishing_Bryan_Thrift_Series_Casting_Rods/descpage-FBTCR.html

 

   If it is, that's a good chatterbait rod. You mentioned that you're "reading techniques such as tailspinners and slow rolling spinner baits and finesse jigs". The only place I can see comments like that are in the reviews on the actual Fitzgerald Rods website. 

   Remember one thing about reviews: anyone can say anything they like, but that doesn't mean that YOU would necessarily like the rod for the same thing if you were to fish with it.    jj

That is the rod I have and am looking at the techniques I listed above. Seemed like most people recommend the fast action rod and since I didn’t have a mh fast action was curious on if I needed to find a different rod for jigging spoons for example 

[jimmyjoe]

6 hours ago, GoneFishingLTN said:

Seemed like most people recommend the fast action rod and since I didn’t have a mh fast action

 

   I take it that you mean "most people" here on BR?

   So you've been reading many of the comments here on BR (which is good) and saw that "most people" recommend a "MH/F" rod for techniques that are, I take it, different from chatterbaits.  and similar to "techniques such as tailspinners and slow rolling spinner baits and finesse jigs".

 

   Okay. Now everything is starting to get a little clearer.

 

   The MH/F rod is most commonly recommended for people who want one rod for an "all-arounder". That's different from fishermen looking for technique-specific rods. So one person wants one rod for "techniques such as tailspinners and slow rolling spinner baits and finesse jigs" (and maybe a whole lot more)  whereas other fishermen want (possibly) three rods for those uses (and maybe many more).

   And I guess that you're asking whether or not the Fitzgerald rod would be okay as an all-arounder for everything or not. Correct so far?

  

   The answer is:  That depends entirely on  you.

 

   I learned on fiberglass. 57 years later, I'm still comfortable with fiberglass. I have 13 rods and reels, and I don't even have a boat; I'm a shorecaster. If I had to, I could give up 12 of those rods and reels and just use a fiberglass rod. I wouldn't want to, but if I had to, I could.

   Some people here on BR, people who are competition fishermen, would say that that's insane. No way. Definitely cannot be done. And they'd be correct ..... for them. But I'm not a competition fisherman. I'm just a retired old fart who loves to fish. So yeah, I could do it.  ?

 

   What about you? What do you want to do? Do you just want to fish, or do you want to be one of "The Boys"?

   If you just want to fish, the Fitzgerald rod, or most any other rod, is good enough. If, on the other hand, you want to get into fishing at what they call the "enthusiast level" or the competiton level, ...... well, that's a rabbit hole you may not want to start down. It never ends. The Tackle Monkey would own your soul.

 

   Hope I understood what you were trying to ask, and I hope this helps you a little.   jj

  

p.s. - If you wish to ask more questions in the future, please be as clear as possible. Other people cannot read your mind.

[roadwarrior]

I like technique specific gear, but you only NEED three.

 

 

[Jigfishn10]

13 hours ago, jimmyjoe said:

   Everything you read says to use a fast action FOR WHAT? 

 

   Action is the point on the blank where it bends under load.

  

 

This is how I learned it...Nice post JJ

[MickD]

LOTs of good info in this string of posts.  For example, I never knew the power numbers related to pounds.  

 

If you want to start measuring the power and action of your rods to get OBJECTIVE numbers, read up on the CCS system.  It really helps take the mystery out of this topic.  I measure all my rods, all the blanks I get, and know in advance how they will work for different techniques and how they relate to each for power and action.

 

https://www.common-cents.info/

 

It was conceived and developed for fly rods, but it works for all rods.  Putting the CCS power (in grams) and Action Angle numbers on the rod is more valuable than any number or word description in the OEM specs/label.

 

Interestingly, Dr. Hanneman, who developed it , recently passed away.

 

 

[Spankey]

You’ll struggle with lure and rod performance throwing crankbaits with fast and x-fast tips. More noticeable with a spinning type rod than a casting rod but still noticeable. Reel ratio and line retrieval per revolution comes into play also. Lower ratio and moderate action makes for a good crankbait rod. 

[Capt No Fish]

So I am newer to Bass fishing.  And I have bought a few rods based off what I have read and watched in articles as well.  My first piece of advice is see if one of your buddies has a rod with a similar power and action to what you are looking for and give it a try.

 

Everyone likes something different and although a consensus might be for one power/ action doesn't mean that something different works for you or your style.  Me personally, I fall into the moderate action rod bucket because I prefer the more parabolic feel of the MF action.  To me and this is where the personal feel comes in, a fast tip feels like a stick in my hands.  

 

Rod manufactures also differ in what they classify as F, MF and how they measure it.   Generally that ratting is how it compares to other in their line. Here is an example. To me a St Criox Bass Mojo feels like it has the flexibility of a 2x4.  I prefer the rating system of Falcon rods.  I like the extra flex (soft tip) they provide because I grew up on spinning poles and salt water fishing most of my life.

 

Specifically said to me a lot in this on purpose to make the point that what I like is not what someone else likes.  It's like the only saying beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  Well fishing rod preference is in the fishing rod holder.  And the lesson I just learned going out and getting all different rods before really trying the different power / actions is I ended up with some rods that I paid decent dollar for that I don't really care for.  So go try it out first.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

On 1/12/2021 at 8:11 PM, MickD said:

I think power is being ignored.  You cannot really discuss performance of a rod without considering both power and action.  It's power that drives a hook home. 

 

Action just describes where in the rod does the rod bend.  Slow means throughout the whole length of the rod, right into the grip most likely.  Extra fast means mostly just at the tip.

 

 

 

I insert the word “initially” bends as the more force applied , the deeper the bend. I feel this helps keep the separation of power and action as you asserted. 

[Spankey]

All rods will feel a bit differently on the water. But if you know what the intended purpose of the rod is going to be used for, you can get a good idea at the shop to tell whether the rod has an x-fast, fast, mf, or moderate tip. You can  somewhat check flex to the rod, ratings of the rod and sensitivity. Better if you can bring your reel with you. I’d never buy a rod untouched. Unless I’m using the same series of rod and was maybe getting a longer or shorter version of something I already have. 
 

Just that right rod can be a hard thing to find. A shop with a crap load of rods is hard to find (everywhere). MOST Wally Worlds are not the place for good rod selections but some of you guys have great Wally worlds. 
 

Other guys opinions are great, guys on here I respect their opinions. BUT what feels right to me may not be for you. 

 

I like St. Croix and Abu Garcia Rods. I’ll comment how I like a certain rod, but I’d never say or tell anyone that a certain rod is a say all do all rod go get that, greatest rod in the world crap. To each his own. I never buy a rod without trying to touch a bunch of them first. Even if you have to get someone like BPS or Cabela’s order you in 3 or 4 rods and you take the one you like best. Make your search fun.