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  • Super User
Posted
On 1/7/2021 at 8:47 AM, ChrisD46 said:

Good range of replies - thanks ! ... A leading manufacturer's cranking specific rod under $150 now looks like it may be a good place to start . *The closest rod I have which may work would be my Dobyns Sierra 733C. (rated as MH/F but more like a MHL/F) . I also have a older, perfect  Berkley Lightening 6'6" Med/ Moderate Fast bait cast rod I could try (although I would prefer a longer cranking rod) .

Give that Lighting rod a chance first.  That's my squarebill cranking rod (though it's the newer version).  I find that for squarebills, I'm never really needing to bomb it long distances.  Accuracy is more important.  And the medium power works pretty well for most squarebills and shallow running cranks.  The moderate fast action is also good for keeping the treble hooks pinned, and good for casting distance.  I typically go with a longer MH/F for deeper diving and larger lipless crankbaits.

 

I don't think you need a fancy rod for crankbaits.  Anything that's rated for the lure's weight, and has a bit of flex in it, should work just about as well as anything else.  Sensitivity isn't really a concern with crankbaits, and they make a lot of ruckus when they hit something anyway.  

 

What is important, in my opinion, is matching the line to the rod.  I've fished a few where the rod was too stiff on braided line, and it was hard to keep the fish pinned.  I've also fished a few where the rod was too soft and the light mono was too stretchy, and it was hard to get enough leverage to set a hook when the lure was further out in the water.  So if you find a rod that's good, but not perfect, often times you can change up the line you're using to tweak it into perfection, or close enough.

  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, jimmyjoe said:

Instead of LMH/F (light medium heavy/fast) he just got the "L" in the wrong place.

I'm wearing my size 7/9/12 wide/narrow boots because it's warm/cold today.  ?

 

I see what you're saying, but it still makes no sense to me.  So, is this just looking for am all-in-one?  Does the "L" refer to the speed?  That might make sense.  I just don't know what he meant.  I stand by my original answer, a M/F is fine for this.

  • Super User
Posted

   I know. I'm not saying that it makes sense to you and me, I'm just saying that advertisers and others do it because they can. Because of that, you and I have to learn to deal with it.

   As for something making sense, just take a look at the world around you. What percentage of it makes sense to you?      ??       jj

  • Super User
Posted
15 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

What percentage of it makes sense to you?

A very large percentage, actually makes perfect sense to me.

  • Super User
Posted
3 minutes ago, J Francho said:

A very large percentage, actually makes perfect sense to me.

 

   Yeah, I can see what you mean. My comment was more rhetorical than literal.      jj

  • Haha 1
Posted

Primary:

Kistler KLX 6’9” MH MF 

Tatula Elite 7.1

15lb Invisx

 

Secondary:

Falcon Bucoo 7’ MH MF

Tatula CT 7.3

15lb McCoys Mean Green

 

Considering adding a 3rd for 2021. I’d really like to try a Cashion

  • Super User
Posted
7 hours ago, jimmyjoe said:

 

   Instead of LMH/F (light medium heavy/fast) he just got the "L" in the wrong place. Mistakes happen. It's more apt to occur with some people than others, but it's no bigee.

   Please don't shoot the cab driver.  ?       jj

Yes , ^^This^^ ! ... Sorry folks - just commenting my Dobyns rods are on the lighter side of their respective actions / ratings . It's just fine with me as I adjust for it within their rod  line up . 

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