2 stroke oil question

[bass or bass ?]

I have a question for anyone with more 2 stroke knowledge than I. When I was filling my fuel tank ,I mistakenly added 1 pint more 2 stroke oil than necessary. Would this have caused my motor problem on Saturday. I had started the motor at home before I left and it started and ran fine, but after adding fuel and the 1 pint too much oil it was a real bear to get started at the lake, didn't really run well, and finally shut down and wouldn't restart. It would fire for a second on starting fluid, but then die. I have added 5 gallons of gas , so now the mixture is correct, pumped out the fuel from the fuel lines and am going to replace the spark plugs. Think that'll solve my problem? Happy fishing.

~B.A.S.S.~N.A.F.C.~BoatU.S.~N.R.A.~

[Zum]

I think it might,probably fouled up your plugs.

Don't think it's good on a 2 stroke to start with starter fluid.

[bass or bass ?]

I pulled the plugs and they were dry and a nice light brown color. Anybody have any more advice for me? My engine mechanic at Valley Marine recommended using a 2 to 3 second squirt of starting fluid when first starting this old 1967 Evinride Starflite 80 hp motor.

~B.A.S.S.~N.A.F.C.~BoatU.S.~N.R.A.~

[whoopbazz]

First off get rid of the fuel, or add enough gas to make the mix right.

A lot of guys (me and my father included) are having very good luck with Sea Foam additive. I really clean out the carbs and motor good. You may need to run a whole tank through to get 100% results.

You WILLneed to clean the plugs during this time. Use carb/choke cleaner. This should help clean the sludgy gunk that may be causing you a problem.

You can buy it at Walmart.

Good Luck!

[bass or bass ?]

I have added 5 gallons of gas to get the mix back to normal. I'm also using Sta-Bil marine formula fuel additive. This fuel tank was drained and cleaned before the last 2 tankfulls. Carbs and fuel filter were recently rebuilt. This fuel tank is 18 gallon capacity. Any more advice will be appreciated.

~B.A.S.S.~N.A.F.C.~BoatU.S.~N.R.A.~

[Way2slow]

If the plugs were dry, it's not getting fuel. The only thing the extra oil would have caused is a lot more smoke and some extra carbon build up on the pistons. A lot of people double oil a motor for the first 10 hours after rebuilding it so the oil was not your problem.

Pump the primer bulb until it's firm then try starting it but instead of using the choke, use your hand and close off the front of both carbs for a few seconds, your palm should get wet, and see if it will start then. After doing this a couple of time, if it doesn't start, check the plugs again to make sure they are not still dry because if it's getting fuel into the motor, they should be wet.  If wet and it's not starting, you may have flooded it so try drying the plugs and then try starting it without choking it.

If it does start, you might need to do a link and sinc. Also make sure when you press the key, the solenoid is closing the choke butterfly.

If it starts and wants to die again, keep slapping your hand over the carbs. I will usually open the throttle wide open and keep using my hand several times over the carbs, YOU JUST HAVE TO BE SURE NOT TOO LET THE MOTOR REV OVER 2,000 rpm. The super amount of gas in the engine will keep it almost choked down. This will sometimes clear a clogged jet but if you're not sure how to do this, DON'T try it. You've never had anything scare the crap out of you like a two stroke that's in runaway and you can make a whole lot of internal parts become external.

[fishfordollars]

Doubling the oil will not hurt it at all.

[Uncle Leo]

Doubling the oil will not hurt it at all.

Agreed, might smoke a bit more then normal though.

[bass or bass ?]

If the plugs were dry, it's not getting fuel. The only thing the extra oil would have caused is a lot more smoke and some extra carbon build up on the pistons. A lot of people double oil a motor for the first 10 hours after rebuilding it so the oil was not your problem.

Pump the primer bulb until it's firm then try starting it but instead of using the choke, use your hand and close off the front of both carbs for a few seconds, your palm should get wet, and see if it will start then. After doing this a couple of time, if it doesn't start, check the plugs again to make sure they are not still dry because if it's getting fuel into the motor, they should be wet. If wet and it's not starting, you may have flooded it so try drying the plugs and then try starting it without choking it.

If it does start, you might need to do a link and sinc. Also make sure when you press the key, the solenoid is closing the choke butterfly.

If it starts and wants to die again, keep slapping your hand over the carbs. I will usually open the throttle wide open and keep using my hand several times over the carbs, YOU JUST HAVE TO BE SURE NOT TOO LET THE MOTOR REV OVER 2,000 rpm. The super amount of gas in the engine will keep it almost choked down. This will sometimes clear a clogged jet but if you're not sure how to do this, DON'T try it. You've never had anything scare the crap out of you like a two stroke that's in runaway and you can make a whole lot of internal parts become external.

When I pump the bulb with the choke open, I can hear fuel squirting into the carb. I will try starting and check the plugs. It'll have to be tomorrow, it's getting dark outside. Thanks.

This motor has been consistantly unreliable. Always with the same problem. Last time, my mechanic said there was water and contaminants in the fuel. I run 2 inline filters. This is only the second tankfull since I drained and inspected the tank. It is clean with no rust inside. I had the motor overhauled when I bought the boat two and a half years ago. I have been using marine formula Sta-Bil in the last two tankfulls and storing the boat with a full tank each of the last two times. It was April the last time I had the boat out and it ran fine then. Also, I started it in my test tank in the driveway before I took it to the lake Saturday and it started and ran fine before leaving the house. Before the last problem I had been using regular Sta-Bil. This is getting very frustating and expensive and I can't afford to buy another motor right now in this economy. All further assistance and advice will be appreciated.

~B.A.S.S.~N.A.F.C.~BoatU.S.~N.R.A.~

[Way2slow]

NO RUST IN TANK??  Are you running steel tanks?  If so, I would look at replacing them with plastic.  A couple of things involved with steel.  The are very prone to sweat inside, causing water and rust, even when left nearly full.  They have to be left full to help keep them from sweating, making you have to deal with old gas.

With plastic tanks, they can be emptied of any gas left in them when you get back from the lake because they are not as prone to sweat.  This keeps you from having to deal with old gas, and the rust and water associated with steel tanks.  Aluminum tanks don't rust but you still have the condensation problem producing water so they are not much better.  

Since I lost my fishing partner, I don't go near as much as I used to so I pump my tank out every time I come back from the lake.  I also prefer SeaFoam over StaBil.  There are good things SeaFoam does inside the motor that StaBil doesn't.

Another thing you can do is use a small, portable tank and mix a 1/2 gallon of gas with the correct amount of oil and one ounce of SeaFoam and run the motor about once a month for about 5-10 minutes on the hose with it.   That keeps the carbs and fuel system nice and clean.    Before you go to the lake, remove the plugs and clean them off a little because they can get fouled if you're run it a number of times on the hose between lake trips, or keep an old set to run it on the hose with and a good set to run the lake.

Right now, you might want to drain the carbs and try to catch what runs out to see what it looks like.   To do this, there are large brass screws on each side of the fuel bowls, remove one and that will let all the fuel drain out of the carbs.   You also have a round plastic cover cover on the side of the fuel pump held on by one screw in the center.  Take the cover off and look at the fine mesh metal screen under it, make sure it's clean.   Pump the primer bulb a couple of times to flush the lines and put the cap back on, pump the bulb a couple of more time to flush the carbs and put the screws back in them.

[BassChump]

What year and what make of engine do you have?

I guess I'll just have to get my boat down there so you can go fishing. lol 8-)

[farmpond1]

A couple of obvious questions:

Did you pump the bulb when you got to the lake?

Had the fuel line gotten bumped and come off?

The fuel you added too much oil to-was it old?  Could it be water in the gas?

Your engines problems may have nothing to do with the additional oil.

Just some thoughts.

[bass or bass ?]

Hi Way2slow and farmpond1, thanks for your input.

This motor is a 1967 Evinrude Starflite 80 hp.

The fuel was @ 60 days old. Possible water. I'm going to get some of it tested. The fuel lines have not been disconnected. Yes, I pumped the bulb.

I talked with bassChump this afternoon and he also suggested replacing my old steel tank. I bought a new plastic one but didn't install it because slight modifications to both tank and boat are necessary to make it fit. I'm going to do this though now and replace the old tank.

I'm also going to R & R my carburator and inspect/replace needle valves and seats and float valves and seats. If the fuel analysis shows water, I'm also going to install a water separator filter.

So many people praise SeaFoam that I will also make a change to it.

I greatly appreciate everyone's help and advice with my problem. Keep the suggestions coming and I'll advize you all as I progress.

[bass or bass ?]

Ok, here's the deal. I have posted this problem on 4 sites to get as much feedback as possible. 4 people on 2 of the sites have suggested that I replace my steel tank with a plastic one as a preventative to forming condensation inside the tank. I bought a new plastic tank in February, but didn't install it because the steel one was clean and showed no signs of rust inside and to install the plastic tank I need to use a hole saw and make a couple modifications in order to fit the plastic tank. I decided to go ahead and replace the steel tank before doing any other troubleshooting. I was surveying the situation, examining the hoses, when I noticed that the fuel pickup hose connection at the tank was wet and the hose clamp was loose. I disconnected my fuel filter and squeezed the primer bulb. Weak fuel squirt into a gas can. Then I tightened the hose clamp and pumped the fuel primer bulb again. Woosh. Major difference in fuel delivery.  Adjusted the slow speed needle screws and decided to try starting the motor. Fired up instantly and purred like a kitten. Restarted at the touch of the key. What a relief. Again , a big thank you to all who responded with suggestions and help in my hour of need. Now I have one final request of you all . Do you all recommend switching my gas tank from steel to plastic? Thanks again.