Is this trailer right?

[Reddmann0]

Hello everyone. I have this old Cox trailer. It has 3 keel rollers and a smaller (bow?) roller. It only has the 2 short 2x4’s in the back. Is this normal? I’m gonna replace the rollers, but I’m not sure that the 2x4s shouldn’t be longer. Picture below.

 

 

[slonezp]

It's a tilt trailer

[Way2slow]

For a small, light weight boat, something like an aluminum jon or small glass boat, it's fine.  Are the rollers adjustable?  You want to make sure the boat is evenly support on them, if one is too high or two low, it will cause a hook or bow in the hull. 

[Reddmann0]

2 hours ago, slonezp said:

It's a tilt trailer

Slonezp, it is a tilt trailer. This is my first boat, so I wasn’t sure if someone had shortened the 2x4s, or if they’re supposed to be that way...

2 hours ago, Way2slow said:

For a small, light weight boat, something like an aluminum jon or small glass boat, it's fine.  Are the rollers adjustable?  You want to make sure the boat is evenly support on them, if one is too high or two low, it will cause a hook or bow in the hull. 

Way2slow, I’ll have to look at it again, but I don’t think the rollers are adjustable (I could be wrong). The 2x4s are on brackets that can be adjusted up or down. Thanks.

[Reddmann0]

2 hours ago, Way2slow said:

For a small, light weight boat, something like an aluminum jon or small glass boat, it's fine.  Are the rollers adjustable?  You want to make sure the boat is evenly support on them, if one is too high or two low, it will cause a hook or bow in the hull. 

Way2slow, I was wrong. The 2 rollers closest to the rear of the trailer are adjustable. The other ones are not.

[WRB]

The boards are very poor condition and need to be replaced with carpet cover bunk boards. The bunk board brackets look like they have holes to adjust them. If the tires are older then 10 years must be replaced regardless of tread condition. Check the wheels fit bearing wobble spindle wear.

Take a ball peen hammer and hit the metal frame to check for rusted out areas, any weak spot walk away even if the trail is free. 

Tom

PS, just looked at you other post about paint for transom and if this is the same trailer it isn't a Tilt trailer and is too long for the boat. The bunk boards should be moved forward until the board ends are even with the boat transom.

This is a small wheel trail and tires come with the rims as a set.

[Way2slow]

I guess I should have explained.  The trailer is good for what you have it and the 2/4's length is OK.  However, it does need a lot of TLC.  As mentioned, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a pieces of that low pile, gray indoor outdoor carpet.  Last time I bought any it was about $10 a yard, and that's more than enough for those bunks, unless you want to lay a piece in the bottom also for noise deadening.  Also, a pressure treated 2x4, if they have one, PT lumber is hard to find and expensive right now. 

If you don't have Stainless fasteners, get you some aluminum siding nails to put that carpet.  Remember, carbon steel rust.

You don't want the bunks too long.  They need to be just off center to the rear so they naturally fall to the back for getting the boat on.  Too long, and they will dig into the ground when you back up.  Just making them longer toward the front will make getting the boat on the trailer difficult because they will be sticking up in the air.

The bunks, the center and rear rollers are the ones that need to be adjustable.  If the bunks are not, have the center and rear down below the hull with the boat on the trailer and then adjust them up to the hull.

 

Also, for adjusting the proper tongue weight.  Place battery, TM and everything else in the boat as it would be if you was about to go fishing.

Then position the winch/stop bracket so when the boat is all the way up against it, you have about 10 - 15% tongue weight.

Now if yo don't have a enough weight in the boat, that may put the boat up past the rear roller, so you might have to cheat a little on tongue weight and slide it back until it's at least sitting on the back roller.

[Reddmann0]

9 hours ago, WRB said:

The boards are very poor condition and need to be replaced with carpet cover bunk boards. The bunk board brackets look like they have holes to adjust them. If the tires are older then 10 years must be replaced regardless of tread condition. Check the wheels fit bearing wobble spindle wear.

Take a ball peen hammer and hit the metal frame to check for rusted out areas, any weak spot walk away even if the trail is free. 

Tom

PS, just looked at you other post about paint for transom and if this is the same trailer it isn't a Tilt trailer and is too long for the boat. The bunk boards should be moved forward until the board ends are even with the boat transom.

This is a small wheel trail and tires come with the rims as a set.

WRB, I’m gonna replace the boards and cover them with carpet. They are adjustable. There is some rust on the winch and the Jack, but no rusted out areas as far as I can tell. I already have new tires and wheels, just haven’t changed them yet. It’s definitely a tilt trailer. And I’m pretty sure the previous owner had the winch set too far from the front of the trailer, so a lot of the boat was hanging off the back of the trailer. I’ll try moving it forward some, so that the transom is supported by the bunk boards. When I change the wheels, I’ll check the bearings, but how do I check for spindle wear? Thanks for the tips!

[Reddmann0]

9 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I guess I should have explained.  The trailer is good for what you have it and the 2/4's length is OK.  However, it does need a lot of TLC.  As mentioned, go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get a pieces of that low pile, gray indoor outdoor carpet.  Last time I bought any it was about $10 a yard, and that's more than enough for those bunks, unless you want to lay a piece in the bottom also for noise deadening.  Also, a pressure treated 2x4, if they have one, PT lumber is hard to find and expensive right now. 

If you don't have Stainless fasteners, get you some aluminum siding nails to put that carpet.  Remember, carbon steel rust.

You don't want the bunks too long.  They need to be just off center to the rear so they naturally fall to the back for getting the boat on.  Too long, and they will dig into the ground when you back up.  Just making them longer toward the front will make getting the boat on the trailer difficult because they will be sticking up in the air.

The bunks, the center and rear rollers are the ones that need to be adjustable.  If the bunks are not, have the center and rear down below the hull with the boat on the trailer and then adjust them up to the hull.

 

Also, for adjusting the proper tongue weight.  Place battery, TM and everything else in the boat as it would be if you was about to go fishing.

Then position the winch/stop bracket so when the boat is all the way up against it, you have about 10 - 15% tongue weight.

Now if yo don't have a enough weight in the boat, that may put the boat up past the rear roller, so you might have to cheat a little on tongue weight and slide it back until it's at least sitting on the back roller.

Way2slow, when I replace the bunk boards, I’ll cover them with that carpet. If I can’t find pressure treated, I’ll paint the bunk boards before putting the carpet on. We have a staple gun. Can I use that with stainless steel staples for fastening the carpet to the boards? If not, I’ll look for aluminum nails. I’ll keep the boards the same length and make sure they fall to the back. When I replace the rollers, I’ll adjust them as you described. I went ahead and slid the winch/stop bracket forward some because the boat was hanging off the back some. I’m not sure how to tell what percentage of the weight is on the tongue though? I’ll figure that part out. Thanks for all the advice, it’s very helpful!

[Way2slow]

Yes, stainless staples are fine if you can find them for your gun.  Home Depot and Lowe's carry a few, sometimes, for the Arrow T-50.  I have an air stapler I bought just to find SS staples I use because I also do my on recovering of the seats.

 

For tongue weight, just let it rest on a set of bathroom scales and try to get about 40 - 50 pounds on it, try not to get below 30,  that's more than enough for no more weight you will probably end up with.

 

Not enough tongue weight will make one want to swish back and fourth some.  A heavy load can make the whole vehicle move back and fourth, a light load like your boat will probably make it just eat tires and hard breaking can be dangerous.

[Guitarfish]

I always wrap the 2x4 rails enough to go almost all the way around.  I leave a space on the bottom so the carpet drains fully, and slows wood rot way down. 

[Way2slow]

Couple other tips on trailer bearing.  Have two new seals in hand to start with.  To save a trip, you will probably want to go ahead and get at least one kit the has both bearings and seals,  You need to knock the back bearing out, and it's held in by the seal, this pretty much destroys the seal, plus the seals should be replaced each year. 

Forgot to mention, use something flat on top of the seal to tap it back in, don't just hammer it, it will dent and deform the seal and cause it to leak.

To check for wear, first look at the surface the seal runs on and see how much of a grove it has worn.  A slight grove is ok, a noticeably deep grove will probably need a repair sleeve.  Now, without being able to show you, what's slight and deep is up to your judgement.

Next, look at the spindle surface where the bearings ride.  On that axle the spindle should be the same size without out any low spot signs of wear from the bearing.  This will mean the bearings inner race is spinning on the spindle and that's not good.

Inspect the bearings after cleaning the up good.  If they are blue or have any pits or signs of wear, replace them and the race/cone.  They are just too dang cheap to take a chance on just how bad one can ruin your day if it burns out.

Hope you know how to pack a bearing or get you a cheap bearing packer.  The bearing must be filled with grease and not just rub grease around the outside.  To do that by hand, place a blob of grease in the palm of your hand and keep pinching some off with the large edge of the bearing and forcing it up through the bearing pressing it against your palm until it comes out the other side, rotate it a little and keep doing that until you have gone all the way around.

Tighten the nut until spinning the wheel starts getting pretty good resistance, then back the nut off about 1/8 turn.  Wheel should spin somewhat easy.  Put your hands on the tire 180 degrees apart and try shaking the tire back and forth, there should be no more that a slightly noticeable movement.  Too loose and you get tire wear, too tight and it doesn't have a grease film and burns out.

Hope this helps, and you might already know all this, but I'm guessing not.

[WRB]

Excellent advice as always.

I used Bearing Buddy on my boat trailers, even the Shoreline tilt for the 14’ Lund I had. This makes it easy to maintain the assembly.

Tom

[Reddmann0]

1 hour ago, Way2slow said:

Couple other tips on trailer bearing.  Have two new seals in hand to start with.  To save a trip, you will probably want to go ahead and get at least one kit the has both bearings and seals,  You need to knock the back bearing out, and it's held in by the seal, this pretty much destroys the seal, plus the seals should be replaced each year. 

Forgot to mention, use something flat on top of the seal to tap it back in, don't just hammer it, it will dent and deform the seal and cause it to leak.

To check for wear, first look at the surface the seal runs on and see how much of a grove it has worn.  A slight grove is ok, a noticeably deep grove will probably need a repair sleeve.  Now, without being able to show you, what's slight and deep is up to your judgement.

Next, look at the spindle surface where the bearings ride.  On that axle the spindle should be the same size without out any low spot signs of wear from the bearing.  This will mean the bearings inner race is spinning on the spindle and that's not good.

Inspect the bearings after cleaning the up good.  If they are blue or have any pits or signs of wear, replace them and the race/cone.  They are just too dang cheap to take a chance on just how bad one can ruin your day if it burns out.

Hope you know how to pack a bearing or get you a cheap bearing packer.  The bearing must be filled with grease and not just rub grease around the outside.  To do that by hand, place a blob of grease in the palm of your hand and keep pinching some off with the large edge of the bearing and forcing it up through the bearing pressing it against your palm until it comes out the other side, rotate it a little and keep doing that until you have gone all the way around.

Tighten the nut until spinning the wheel starts getting pretty good resistance, then back the nut off about 1/8 turn.  Wheel should spin somewhat easy.  Put your hands on the tire 180 degrees apart and try shaking the tire back and forth, there should be no more that a slightly noticeable movement.  Too loose and you get tire wear, too tight and it doesn't have a grease film and burns out.

Hope this helps, and you might already know all this, but I'm guessing not.

I didn’t know all this. Thanks again for all the tips!