Why wait until spring?

[Glenn]

Pro Tip:  If you don't store your boat outside for the winter and therefore don't winterize it, then go get your "spring tune up" now.  

 

Most shops are really slow this time of year, so you can get your boat in and out within a day or two instead of waiting weeks to get your boat "ready" for spring.  Not only that, but you don't have a long wait for parts if you need them.

 

I always do my annual work and repairs in late fall or early winter, and usually get "the confused dog" look by the shop because they're accustomed to doing it in the spring when everyone else does it. I just got my boat back from the trailer shop to have the bearings, wiring and worn suspension parts replaced. Took only two days.

 

Not everyone can swing it, because they must winterize their boat. But for those of us with garages or warmer climates where we don't need to winterize the boat for storage, then this is great time to beat the lines!

 

[GaryH]

Just got mine done 2 weeks ago. Great minds... LOL

[roadwarrior]

Odd you would bring this up just now. I got my boat back today!

 

[Bluebasser86]

New brakes, spring leafs, and bearings all done a couple months ago ?

 

Mostly just been sitting since I got the new ride though.

[Jig Man]

I take advantage of the Bass Pro Service Center 34 point inspection each fall when I get the oil and lower unit serviced on my Verado.

[tander]

Put my boat in the shop several weeks ago for some minor work done. Only in shop 3 days. Lots better than 30 or 4 weeks.

[Michigander]

Boat is winterized in an unheated garage. The main winter projects are redoing all the weather sealing on the hatches (totally shot) and a full boat rewire. There's twenty years worth of temp fixes and questionable logic in there.

[Way2slow]

If you winter fish for stripers when they come into the shallow back waters, it turns into doing it late winter when after they go back deep, in the cold. 

On seasons I have no plans of stiper fishing, I did mine in the late fall.

[Big Rick]

Got mine done last week. I hit a stump with my TM and broke my left turn cable. So, I just had a full service done. New plugs, water pump, oil and filter change, replaced all fuel filters. 

 

By the way, the replacement cables for my Ultrex were only $16 per. I was more than satisfied. That TM has jumped a ton of stumps and logs the last 3 years with no issues. With the way I use it replacing cables every 3-4 years is acceptable IMO. YMMV

[bagofdonuts]

unless you live in duck hunting land and all the shops are full of duck boats.

[InfantryMP]

I have an unheated garage, do I really need to winterize the boat fully? I mean I do not mind putting fuel stabilizer in and all that, but is all the other stuff necessary in an unheated garage? 

 

 

[A-Jay]

13 minutes ago, InfantryMP said:

I have an unheated garage, do I really need to winterize the boat fully? I mean I do not mind putting fuel stabilizer in and all that, but is all the other stuff necessary in an unheated garage? 

 

 

 

Correctly preparing your outboard motor for the off-season will help insure that it’s ready to go next spring. In cold climates, freezing weather can cause costly damage to an engine that isn’t winterized properly. Even in milder climates, the end of the boating season is a great time to take care of annual maintenance that will keep your outboard running reliably. Whether you do the job yourself or take your outboard to an Authorized dealer for service, spending a little time and money today can save a lot of both come spring.

Here's a few winterization maintenance items to consider: 

Treat the Fuel

You should always store your boat with fresh fuel that has been treated with marine fuel stabilizer. Fuel that is left untreated will begin to oxidize and form a gumlike substance in the engine’s fuel system. This is especially true for outboards equipped with carburetors.

It is important to get that treated fuel into the entire fuel system by running the boat for about 10 minutes.

Change the Oil

If you have a four-stroke outboard, the engine oil and filter should be changed every 100 hours or once a season, regardless of how many hours the engine was used. Storing the motor with old oil can expose internal engine components to moisture and acidic combustion byproducts, which can cause corrosion. It’s always a good idea to start the engine again, to circulate fresh oil through the engine. 

Fog the Engine

Ideally while the motor is still warm, treat four-stroke and conventional two-stroke engines with fogging oil to prevent corrosion within the engine.

Change the Gear Lube

The gear lube in the outboard lower unit should also be changed every 100 hours or once a season – check your owner’s manual for the specific service interval. Any water in the gear lube can freeze and expand during storage, potentially cracking the gearcase. 

Check the Prop Shaft 

It’s a good idea to pull off the prop. If you propeller is nicked or bent, the off-season is a good time to send it out for repair at a propeller shop so it will be ready to go in the spring. 

After removing the prop, check the prop shaft for fishing line.

Check the Power Trim Fluid

Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions for your outboard model.

Check Sacrificial Anodes

Sacrificial anodes (or zincs, as they are often called) are designed to protect the motor’s other submerged metals from galvanic corrosion. Most outboard motors have several sacrificial anodes, and they can be located by consulting the owner’s manual. Sacrificial anodes should be replaced when they are 50 percent deteriorated.

Lubricate Any Grease Points 

Most outboards have some grease zerks or other lubrication points that should be serviced. 

Check and Maintain the Battery 

If it’s a lead-acid battery, inspect the fluid level and add distilled water, if needed. Be sure the battery is fully charged, remove it from the boat, and store it in a cool, dry place. Storing the battery on a maintenance charger will keep it charged and fresh until spring.

Store the Engine Upright

Whether the boat is stored on a trailer or a rack, the motor should be trimmed down to its vertical position so that any water remaining in the engine can self-drain. If water trapped in the engine freezes, it could cause serious damage. 

Good Luck

A-Jay

[InfantryMP]

18 minutes ago, A-Jay said:

 

Correctly preparing your outboard motor for the off-season will help insure that it’s ready to go next spring. In cold climates, freezing weather can cause costly damage to an engine that isn’t winterized properly. Even in milder climates, the end of the boating season is a great time to take care of annual maintenance that will keep your outboard running reliably. Whether you do the job yourself or take your outboard to an Authorized dealer for service, spending a little time and money today can save a lot of both come spring.

Here's a few winterization maintenance items to consider: 

Treat the Fuel

You should always store your boat with fresh fuel that has been treated with marine fuel stabilizer. Fuel that is left untreated will begin to oxidize and form a gumlike substance in the engine’s fuel system. This is especially true for outboards equipped with carburetors.

It is important to get that treated fuel into the entire fuel system by running the boat for about 10 minutes.

Change the Oil

If you have a four-stroke outboard, the engine oil and filter should be changed every 100 hours or once a season, regardless of how many hours the engine was used. Storing the motor with old oil can expose internal engine components to moisture and acidic combustion byproducts, which can cause corrosion. It’s always a good idea to start the engine again, to circulate fresh oil through the engine. 

Fog the Engine

Ideally while the motor is still warm, treat four-stroke and conventional two-stroke engines with fogging oil to prevent corrosion within the engine.

Change the Gear Lube

The gear lube in the outboard lower unit should also be changed every 100 hours or once a season – check your owner’s manual for the specific service interval. Any water in the gear lube can freeze and expand during storage, potentially cracking the gearcase. 

Check the Prop Shaft 

It’s a good idea to pull off the prop. If you propeller is nicked or bent, the off-season is a good time to send it out for repair at a propeller shop so it will be ready to go in the spring. 

After removing the prop, check the prop shaft for fishing line.

Check the Power Trim Fluid

Check your owner’s manual for specific instructions for your outboard model.

Check Sacrificial Anodes

Sacrificial anodes (or zincs, as they are often called) are designed to protect the motor’s other submerged metals from galvanic corrosion. Most outboard motors have several sacrificial anodes, and they can be located by consulting the owner’s manual. Sacrificial anodes should be replaced when they are 50 percent deteriorated.

Lubricate Any Grease Points 

Most outboards have some grease zerks or other lubrication points that should be serviced. 

Check and Maintain the Battery 

If it’s a lead-acid battery, inspect the fluid level and add distilled water, if needed. Be sure the battery is fully charged, remove it from the boat, and store it in a cool, dry place. Storing the battery on a maintenance charger will keep it charged and fresh until spring.

Store the Engine Upright

Whether the boat is stored on a trailer or a rack, the motor should be trimmed down to its vertical position so that any water remaining in the engine can self-drain. If water trapped in the engine freezes, it could cause serious damage. 

Good Luck

A-Jay

 

Yea that is all what I have done in previous years. I just wondered if it was truly needed kept inside. 

[A-Jay]

1 minute ago, InfantryMP said:

 

Yea that is all what I have done in previous years. I just wondered if it was truly needed kept inside. 

Yea 

Perhaps skip a few seasons and see how it goes.

A-Jay

[TnRiver46]

Spring is the worst time to be fishing around here ! 

[roadwarrior]

22 minutes ago, TnRiver46 said:

Spring is the worst time to be fishing around here ! 

 I gotta get you to drive over to Pickwick this spring. You want to plan a short vacation?

Cheap lodging and I have a boat that will cost you nothing.  Pick a time that fits your

schedule. I'm retired and can fish any day ending in a "y".

[TnRiver46]

33 minutes ago, roadwarrior said:

 I gotta get you to drive over to Pickwick this spring. You want to plan a short vacation?

Cheap lodging and I have a boat that will cost you nothing.  Pick a time that fits your

schedule. I'm retired and can fish any day ending in a "y".

Spring is when everyone is fishing their 2 times a year! Haha. I’ll go with ya when it’s freezing . We always call the first warm Saturday in spring “amateur day” and watch people try to launch. Don’t the big monster bronzebacks bite in Jan-Feb? 

[roadwarrior]

4 minutes ago, TnRiver46 said:

Don’t the big monster bronzebacks bite in Jan-Feb? 

                     Yep!

 

<-------------------------------------

[TnRiver46]

1 minute ago, roadwarrior said:

                     Yep!

 

<-------------------------------------

I’ll keep ya in mind this winter! 
 

back to the topic, I like Glenn’s theory. As you’ve seen on recent tournament trails, fall time is tougher fishing in the south so it would be a great time to do maintenance. Unfortunately, my friends and I just skip maintenance and go fishing 365..........

[Michigander]

1 hour ago, InfantryMP said:

 

Yea that is all what I have done in previous years. I just wondered if it was truly needed kept inside. 

Keeping it inside without heat just means you can leave it unwrapped/tarped. It's still basically outside, just much dryer and more accessible.

[GoneFishingLTN]

What’s everyone use for a good trickle battery charger. Also can I use it once a week or so I rather not have something plugged in all winter 

[MN Fisher]

14 minutes ago, GoneFishingLTN said:

What’s everyone use for a good trickle battery charger.

I've got a West Marine charger to go with my West Marine battery.

14 minutes ago, GoneFishingLTN said:

Also can I use it once a week or so I rather not have something plugged in all winter 

I just give it a good charge before hauling the battery out of the canoe and stashing it in the basement for the winter. Then a good charge in the spring...it doesn't drop all that much when stored.

[Glenn]

I do all the annual maintenance stuff in the late fall/early winter.  Boat is stored inside an insulated garage. Even when it's well below freezing outside (like it is this morning), it never gets colder than 55 degrees.  

 

For that reason, plus I do go fishing during the winter, I don't fog the engine.

 

I do hit the batteries with a quick charge every week or two to top them off, but never leave it on continual trickle-charge.  I burned through 2 chargers in 5 years doing that, but I've had the current charger for 10 years since I stopped that practice.

 

[Paul Roberts]

Yeah, I already squeezed the air outta my float tube. Glad that's outta the way! :))