Replacing Full Cork Handle.

[SNK]

Are there any good videos showing how to replace a full cork handle? New pet got a hold of my Dobyns HP and chewed the cork up pretty good near the bottom of the handle to the point I can see a smal portion of the blank.

[MickD]

Cut the cork off, clean it up best you can so you have a solid base to work on.  Now you have a tapered blank, fairly clean, at least no loose pieces.  Now using masking tape wrap a few shims along the blank making the end of the blank and and 2 or 3 shims into a cylindrical surface.  Ream a new cork grip to a slip fit on that cylindrical surface formed by the butt of the blank and the shims.  Use a good quality adhesive epoxy, totally encapsulate the shims, and liberally apply epoxy all along the blank.  Have paper towels and alcohol ready for clean-up of epoxy that gets out.  

 

If your new grip has a closed end it's difficult to ream it, so you may choose an open ended grip, then cover the end with a slipover type  butt knob/sleeve, or finish it with cork.

 

Not as easy as it sounds, but can be done.

I would be tempted to fill in the damage to provide a good surface then add Winn grip tape.  Probably cheaper and one heck of a lot easier.

 

[SNK]

Thanks Mick.

 

I did a little researching and found, on Janns Netcraft a 10”, 1-1/16OD,  5/16”ID, open ended I believe, Full cork handle that should work (the Dobyns cork measures 10” from the reel seat to the buttcap) 

I’ll have to figure out how to get the buttcap off, and ream out the new handle. They also sell a buttcap that I imagine I will need for the new handle.

 

Not sure how well filling would do. It has to be at least 1-1/2” long, an inch wide and deep enough to see the blank.

 

 

[MickD]

1 hour ago, SNK said:

Thanks Mick.

 

I did a little researching and found, on Janns Netcraft a 10”, 1-1/16OD,  5/16”ID, open ended I believe, Full cork handle that should work (the Dobyns cork measures 10” from the reel seat to the buttcap) 

I’ll have to figure out how to get the buttcap off, and ream out the new handle. They also sell a buttcap that I imagine I will need for the new handle.

 

Not sure how well filling would do. It has to be at least 1-1/2” long, an inch wide and deep enough to see the blank.

 

 

Yes, reaming a 10 grip is not easy, even if you have the reamers designed for this work.  See if you can find a builder in your area; he could do the whole repair or just the reaming.  You'll need to establish the diameter you need.  After setting up the tape arbors.

 

One way to finish the end would be to add a knob after reaming and gluing the grip on.  It could be larger than the grip, and could be sanded down to match the grip.  If you do this, leave about 3/8 in of the blank sticking out to be a pilot for the butt knob.  If you end up with an open ended grip which would then leave you with an ugly hole, you can finish it off with a rubber bumper like Mudhole sells or that are available at O Reilly Auto in the interior trim fastener display.  I'll do some looking for parts that might work fairly well.

 

This is a casting rod, right?

 

[MickD]

https://www.mudhole.com/Composite-Cork-Butt-Caps

 

https://www.mudhole.com/Straight-Cork-Rear-Grip-Two-Tenons-Super-Grade

 

These parts should work fairly well.  But reaming is still an issue.  

 

The grip has a tenon that matches the hole in the butt caps, if you choose the right combination of sizes.  If your current rod has 10 inches from the butt to the seat, then go with the 9 inch grip.  And add the butt cap.  Which should get you very close to original dimensions.  

 

I think EVA will ream easier than cork, although I don't know how you could ream without the proper tools.  A local machine shop might be able to help without an exorbitant fee.

 

What is the outer diameter of the blank at the butt?  It is probably about .5, which should allow these parts to work, so you will have some tenon left after reaming.

 

We had a chewing dog one time and I used hot sauce on the stuff he was interested in to cure him.  He was actually chewing on our deck at one time.  Hot sauce did it.

 

 

[Jigfishn10]

I had a rescue puppy do the same thing. I ended up splitting the grip instead of a full replacement. 

 

Thought I’d throw that out there, although you sound pretty committed to replacement. 

 

Good luck on the repair.

[MickD]

I still don't know for sure this is a casting rod.  If spin, split would make it much easier since one doesn't really need any grip at the rear of the seat anyway.  If cast, one still has to fit a rear grip on, even though it would be be much shorter.  

 

 

[.ghoti.]

Another route to consider. If you have access to a rod lathe, or can fab up one using a variable speed drill and some home-made stands to support the spinning rod: don't try to remove the damaged cork all the way down to the blank. Using some 60 grip sandpaper, with the rod spinning, turn the damaged cork down to near the blank, but leave some cork attached. Make the remaining cork an even diameter all along the length of the grip. Make it just a hair smaller than a standard drill bit size. Bore out your new grip to that size. Get it done right and you can simply slide the new grip over what’s left of the old grip. If you have holes in what’s left of the old grip, use some of the cork dust, mixed with titebond glue to make a paste the patch the holes. No need to worry about color matching. You wont see it when the new grip is slid over the old.

 

Take your time sanding down the old grip. Have the new grip already bored out so you can check the diameter of the old grip as you go. You will need a loose fit. The new grip, when bored out will be a bit on the flimsy side until it is glued on place over the old cork. So be gentle when dry fitting the pieces together.

[Michigander]

1 hour ago, .ghoti. said:

Another route to consider. If you have access to a rod lathe, or can fab up one using a variable speed drill and some home-made stands to support the spinning rod: don't try to remove the damaged cork all the way down to the blank. Using some 60 grip sandpaper, with the rod spinning, turn the damaged cork down to near the blank, but leave some cork attached. Make the remaining cork an even diameter all along the length of the grip. Make it just a hair smaller than a standard drill bit size. Bore out your new grip to that size. Get it done right and you can simply slide the new grip over what’s left of the old grip. If you have holes in what’s left of the old grip, use some of the cork dust, mixed with titebond glue to make a paste the patch the holes. No need to worry about color matching. You wont see it when the new grip is slid over the old.

 

Take your time sanding down the old grip. Have the new grip already bored out so you can check the diameter of the old grip as you go. You will need a loose fit. The new grip, when bored out will be a bit on the flimsy side until it is glued on place over the old cork. So be gentle when dry fitting the pieces together.

Cool idea!

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

5 hours ago, Michigander said:

Cool idea!

Turning a whole rod is different than just a grip. Be careful to not get the tip whipping and snap. 

[Michigander]

30 minutes ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

Turning a whole rod is different than just a grip. Be careful to not get the tip whipping and snap. 

That makes sense. Glad I'm not the one who has to do it! Though we do foster strays, and if we ever get a rod chewer then at least there's this. ?

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

I’m not sure anymore but years ago it was common practice to may builders to glue cork rings to the blank then shape the grip. I never had the nerve or inclination to try that. 

[.ghoti.]

Mike, I’ve done this twice. Once by sliding a bored out grip over the old cork, and once by gluing individual bored out rings; then shaping the grip. The first way is easier.

 

I used my Alps wrapper, at a fairly slow speed to keep the tip whip down. I used my Worksharp knife sharpener to sand down the old grip. 
 

https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Knife-Tool-Sharpener/dp/B07CVN8HV5/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=Hsm9UB65vCVSJVwubOi0bg&hsa_cr_id=4812382890801&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1

 

With the alignment piece removed, what's left is a small easily manipulated belt sander. I also use this for prepping guide feet.

[MickD]

Where did SNK go?