How to fish it

[Jonas Staggs]

Got a man made community hoa lake/pond to fish.

 

No grass and no structure in the lake/pond.

 

How would you fish it?

[ironbjorn]

Find the baitfish and fish in the last place the books would tell you to fish. That's literally how I learned to approach ponds like these. The books are made for bigger water and they can lead us to what looks good in smaller bodies of water but not what produces well. Really, honestly, just look at it and think "not the side" and the fish it. They will be there.

[JustJames]

Light Texas rig 4-6” worm, dropshot 3-4” fluke style or paddle style bait or weightless 3-4” senko or 6” fat roboworm. Might be a good time for you to hop in Ned Rig bandwagon also 1/16 or 1/20oz. Concentrate 2-4’ around concrete barrier wall. 

[plawren53202]

7 hours ago, Jonas Staggs said:

Got a man made community hoa lake/pond to fish.

 

No grass and no structure in the lake/pond.

 

How would you fish it?

I fish mine 4-5 days a week (slowing down now with the colder weather), and it sounds like yours is exactly the same. Add in the additional challenge that mine got hammered this spring and summer with anglers (not a lot of catching, but a lot of fishing). I'll throw out a few random observations. 

 

--There is a little more structure or cover there than might first meet the eye. From first glance mine looks barren. However, there are: (1) an inlet pipe on one side where the subdivision storm sewer runs in, and there are some football-size rocks under water (can't see them), I'm sure to cut down on erosion where the water flows in; (2) a very slight drop off in many cases, about 15 feet out from the bank (depending on water level)--it's not really even a "dropoff", just a place where the slope of the gradual drop gets a little steeper for a couple of feet; (3) there are a few little nooks in the bank where, when the fish come up shallow (and sometimes they get SHALLOW), the fish will park in them; (4) there is a spot where the pond narrows, and the wind frequently blows in that direction--it's not really a point, but the spot where the narrowing occurs provides a slight ambush spot when the wind is generating a little current past that point. Also pay attention to where water flows into the pond, and hit that especially during or just after rain or significant snow meltoff. Yours will be different, of course, but I'm just throwing out examples of the kinds of "structure" or "cover" I have to look for in this environment, versus much more obvious places in the big lakes I fish. I highly recommend taking some time with a heavy Carolina rig or jig to drag the bottom as thoroughly as possible, feeling for possible rocks or other structure.

 

--To me, it seems like the behavior of the largemouths in my pond is different from lake largemouths. They're almost more like spots. It seems like they roam a lot more, when they're actively feeding. In particular it seems like they roam a lot on that "dropoff" I mentioned above. I will 45 degree cast swim jigs, swim baits, or squarebills across that dropoff when it seems like they're active. Same goes for that pinch "point" I mentioned above, though they'll set up rather than roam there a little more, But they won't park on that spot like a typical largemouth parks on a log or under a mat.

 

--When they're not active, they park in one spot. Most often this is in the deepest part of the pond, which is simply the bottom of the bowl out in the middle. With a little work and the right baits that part is in casting distance at my pond, though I can't reach it with lighter baits like a Ned rig. Heavier bottom baits like a jig, most T rigged baits, a Neko rigged worm, or drop shot will all work. Vary depending on water clarity and weather (clearer or colder, go with more finesse-y presentations like the drop shot).

 

--Like the above poster said, pay attention to where the baitfish are. In warmer days this year, especially mornings and evenings, the "structure" those baitfish utilize is most often the bank. This requires some care in fishing water that shallow without spooking the bass cruising up there in inches of water. Weightless T rigged fluke is a good one. Also helps if you can find places to actually cast up on the bank and drag the bait into the water, eliminating the splash. During warmer months these bank cruisers will hit a topwater early and late; I caught quite a few this year on a size 75 or 90 Plopper, as well as a frog or Pop R in stiller water.

 

--Pay attention to what they have to eat. In my pond it's mainly bluegill and baby bass. My color choices reflect those. Soft plastics that combine green pumpkin and light blue ("Bream" in Yum Dingers, Moon Juice in Strike King products, "Neon Bluegill" in KVD 1.5s, Blue Craw in Z Man) are standby colors for me. Don't overlook the baby bass either. Other day I caught one with a tail sticking up out of his throat, pulled it out just a little and sure enough it was a baby bass.

 

--As the water is getting colder now, here are some things that have worked well for me. Jerkbaits have been great lately. I think they excel at getting those cruisers in colder water. Vision 110 Jr or the little Lucky Craft (forget the model number) in clear or reflective patterns (sunny) or sexy shad (cloudy). A Red Eye Shad in the cold water classic craw red does well. I fish it yo-yo more like a jig, and it casts a mile so great to get out to that deepest water when they aren't as active. A tungsten head jig (heavy weight to cast far/get down deep, but small profile) along with a low action trailer like the smallest Zoom chunk, has been my latest go-to.

 

--When in doubt, downsize. My strong preference during warmer months is to throw something fun like a swim jig or squarebill. But the old reliable fallback is always Ned rig (original TRD or TRD craw) or a 4" Yum Dinger wacky rigged. When the pond was getting hammered this summer I saw a LOT (almost entirely) of big, loud, flashy baits--white or chartreuse spinnerbaits, white buzzbaits, etc. Small and slow is always the fallback for me.

 

Hope this rambling helps. This is a meaningful topic to me because it took quite a bit of time to adjust from some of my lake bass/more "normal" pond bass thinking--and God knows I still am far from having this mastered.

[UNC1078]

Fantastic information, PLawren.  Thanks for sharing. I have a small 1/1.5 acre pond in my neighborhood that I am trying to figure out.  Your information is super helpful.

[NittyGrittyBoy]

Drop some brush piles with Christmas trees and dont tell anyone. 

 

Fish the obvious first, beat the banks, map out the rest. The more time you spend out there the more you'll figure it out. 

[Bankbeater]

If this hoa lake is like mine the lake is a used for retention, and has several culverts and drains leading into it.  You might also try casting out as far as possible.  In the center of my lake there are a few large rock piles that the bass use as structure.

[scaleface]

I would do like the boys and girls do and throw a 1/4 ounce Beetle Spin . 

[GetFishorDieTryin]

Start small, 3" keitech or grub with a 1/16, 1/20, 1/15 or whatever lightweight jighead you have.  If the water is cold, keep the rod tip high and reel as slow as you can without hitting the bottom so you don't get bogged down in grass or slime.  Just about anything will take a shot at that little bait, so it will tell you where the fish are.  Ned rigs and DSs will do the same thing, but you can cover water faster with a small swimbait.  Once you have an idea of where the fish are, pick the area apart with a ned rig, jig or DS.

 

[Jonas Staggs]

I caught 4 my first time there on a 1/32 oz jig. Been skunked since. Last time I went I saw schools of maybe 4" fish. I cannot tell what they are cause I can't see clearly through the murky water but I figure the bass have got to be feeding on these schools of fish.

[Fishes in trees]

Set up with a decent spinning combo-light braid & leaderfluorocarbon and a quarter ounce Brewer Spider Slider and a 4" Slider worm.   Throw it as far as you can and "polish the rocks".  What Charlie Brewer meant by this was to move your bait, as slowly and steadily as possible, occasionally touching the bottom, but trying to stay within 6 to 8 inches off the bottom.   Sudden jerks, erratic motions are bad, Brewer encouraged moving the bait as slowly and steadily as possible.