Are Medium Rods easier to break then say a medium heavy?

[umar_abbas]

I picked up a medium action fast tip for frogging and I feel like it may be too light. (using 40-50lb braid on it as well). Anything helps thanks !

[FishTank]

Most frog rods are in the 7'+ range, Heavy and have a fast tip.  I think the rod you mentioned would be too light for that purpose. 

 

Here is a link to various frog rods at Tackle Warehouse.....

 

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Frog_Rods/catpage-FRD.html

[diehardbassfishing]

Not may favorite area of conversation to chime into. But.

 

You're sorta asking two questions - the subject of the post, and the body of the message.

 

Rods that aren't abused don't break. Abuse is High Sticking, for one. Having drag set very high and horsing a large fish, or snag - depending on rod position, can also qualify as a potential break situation.

 

To answer the question in the subject title - I'd really like to say No. At least not significantly. The difference between a med and med heavy is how it performs while fishing. Not much (or hardly anything) to do with how much punishment it can take. If you're really on the way to bustin' a med rod, you're "just this close" to bustin' a med heavy.

 

To answer the body of your post - frogging would best handled with a rod with a stronger backbone than a medium. You'll have better control over landing the fish.

 

 

Karl

 

 

 

Keep in mind most reels max drag is typically 10-15 lbs.

Braid break strength numbers sound impressive, but the line is more a "no stretch" thing, than purely a Superman force thing.

 

[jimmyjoe]

   Frogging entails either pulling a fish through masses of weeds or pulling a fish and weeds through masses of weeds. Either way, it's not a job for lower power rods. I have a Heavy power rod that I use for it, with 65 lb. braid. To me, a Medium power rod is for areas with no weeds or obstructions.    jj

[MN Fisher]

20 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

   Frogging entails either pulling a fish through masses of weeds or pulling a fish and weeds through masses of weeds. Either way, it's not a job for lower power rods. I have a Heavy power rod that I use for it, with 65 lb. braid. To me, a Medium power rod is for areas with no weeds or obstructions.    jj

Ditto this - though I run 50# braid on my frog-rod...it's a Heavy power.

 

Medium/Fast - good jerk, wacky, neko, shaky rod....bad frog rod.

[Bluebasser86]

They aren't easier to break, but they are not properly suited for what you're wanting to do either, and that can result in breaking the rod but it wouldn't be the fault of the rod.

[Bankc]

In my experience, price is a better indication of how easily a rod will break than power.  Usually, more expensive rods break easier than cheaper rods.  And it's not so much due to the price, but to the sensitivity and weight.  More expensive rods tend to be more sensitive and lighter.  More sensitive rods tend to be more rigid, so as to transmit vibrations better.  That increased rigidity makes them more fragile (they transmit rather than absorb vibrations), as does the decrease in the amount of material used (which makes them lighter).  

 

Cheaper rods tend to be made out of fiberglass or composite materials.  That makes them less sensitive and heavier, but it also makes them more likely to sustain abuse.  And even the cheaper graphite rods tend to be made of less dense graphite, and thicker layers of it.  

[Fishes in trees]

I don't break a lot of rods - lifetime, maybe 15 to 20.    Nearly every time "operator error" was the primary reason the rod broke.  The other few times I'm pretty certain that "operator error" was a strong contributing factor to busting that rod.

[Boomstick]

You're going to want at least a stronger medium heavy rod for throwing frogs, but probably ideally a heavy. I wouldn't even think about throwing a frog on a medium rod, you need to have the power to pull them out of the slop and set those large hooks.

[Michigander]

Car doors and tailgates don't discriminate. They'll snap an XH the same as an UL. Ask me how I know, lol.

[MN Fisher]

Just now, Michigander said:

Car doors and tailgates don't discriminate. They'll snap an XH the same as an UL. Ask me how I know, lol.

50+ years of fishing - I've yet to break a rod in a vehicle. I've broken a couple while out fishing - wading a stream, trip/slip on a slick rock, rod impacts the bank...that sort of thing.

 

(knock on wood - or my head (not much difference))

[Michigander]

6 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

50+ years of fishing - I've yet to break a rod in a vehicle. I've broken a couple while out fishing - wading a stream, trip/slip on a slick rock, rod impacts the bank...that sort of thing.

 

(knock on wood - or my head (not much difference))

You're lucky. I haven't broken a rod in years but that's because I am ultra careful now. Car door, garage door, tailgate, and my feet have all claimed victims.

[mcipinkie]

Boat cleats are my nemesis.  It's amazing how many rods you can break on cleats.  I love retractable cleats.

 

I'm 74 years old.  Fished all my life.  I can only remember breaking one rod on a fish.  That was my fault.  Big flat head and I leaned on him too hard.   

[Michigander]

8 hours ago, mcipinkie said:

Boat cleats are my nemesis.  It's amazing how many rods you can break on cleats.  I love retractable cleats.

 

I'm 74 years old.  Fished all my life.  I can only remember breaking one rod on a fish.  That was my fault.  Big flat head and I leaned on him too hard.   

I've broken off on the cast because the lure grabbed a cleat but never snapped a rod on one. Now I'll be wary of those too! Thankfully I haven't broken a rod on a fish!

[Boomstick]

13 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

50+ years of fishing - I've yet to break a rod in a vehicle. I've broken a couple while out fishing - wading a stream, trip/slip on a slick rock, rod impacts the bank...that sort of thing.

 

(knock on wood - or my head (not much difference))

The only rod I broke was a super cheap Walmart combo in the trunk of a car years ago. The way it was packed, nothing could have slammed against it so the weight of the rod must have broken itself, or another rod that was next to it must have broken it.

[A-Jay]

I've fragmented a few; OK several.

Usually on the hookset and most of them were Heavy action 'Travel' rods.

Seems they start out in 3 pieces but ended up in more.

Here's what my latest and somewhat comical effort looked like ~ 

A-Jay

 

 

[jimmyjoe]

   Hey, @A-Jay! You need a longer rod that's more resistant to high sticking!   ??   jj

 

  

[A-Jay]

39 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

   Hey, @A-Jay! You need a longer rod that's more resistant to high sticking!   ??   jj

 

  

Unless it's a G Loomis, 

Me & Travel rods just don't get along.

A-Jay

[WRB]

Technically a medium power rod will break before a medium heavy power rod with everything being equal.

Power is lifting force in pounds of dead weight originally started by Fenwick as I recall, rod bent 90 degrees. 1 through 6 power being 1 lb to 6 lbs now referenced basically (no standard ) 1=light, 2= medium light, 3=medium, 4= medium heavy, 5= heavy, 6=extra heavy.

This being the rods limit in lifting dead weight before bottoming out. Typical bass rod 7’long medium power bottoms out lifting 3 lbs, medium heavy 4 lbs. 4 lbs could break a medium rod, 5 lbs a medium heavy.

Fishing we apply force in many different ways and usually at a slower even pressure by pulling at different angles. 

Frog fishing you are alway applying near maximum pulling force to control the bass or pull it out of cover along with some of the cover. 

Bottom line longer 7’5” heavy or XH is recommended for frog fishing.

Tom