Techniques Where FC Main Line Is A Must ?

[mcipinkie]

I got to buy some Kool - Aid stock. 

[TnRiver46]

On 11/20/2020 at 7:02 PM, mcipinkie said:

I agree with all the "Nones".  I finally spit out the FC Kool - Aid.  Once I finish what I have, I'm done with it.  It's 90% advertising hype.  I use braid with a leader on every rod, every lure, every technique.  As far as I can tell, the benefits of FC, if any, and I don't think there, are pretty minimal when you only have 6 feet or so on your rod.  I've gone back to Berkley Big Game as I run out of FC.  I've still got a couple spools of 8 lb and 12 lb FC.  When they are gone, back to mono.  I might try some XT or XL just for hits and giggles. 

 

Now, I can't agree with Hawg and his 4 spools in 12 years, but I get at least a year out of a 1/4 lb. spool of Big Game.  I use lots of 15, 20, and 25 but in short pieces.  Flipping, pitching rods generally get about 6 ft.  I want the knot outside the tip when I pitch.  Pull bait rods generally get about 12'.  2 across the chest pulls.  

 

One non-scientific note of interest.  Every one, including me, touts the abrasion resistance of FC.  I got to looking, and I can't remember which brand of FC, but of one of good ones that I used was significantly larger in diameter than Big Game.  That's how you get abrasion resistance. 

 

Don't start me on Tungsten flavored Kool - Aid. 

It's a lot harder to drink any of those Kool aid's when you are broke! Mono and lead aren't broke so I don't fix them . I also have a single cab pickup truck with manual transmission manual windows and manual locks if that tells you anything haha

[Bassun]

FC a must?  None.  

I use fluorocarbon leaders a lot.  

I run straight fluorocarbon for ultralights in gin clear water.  

Either could be replaced with something else IMO.

[ChrisD46]

*Now rethinking FC  as a main line based on replies and further reading from Pros : The phenomena of FC line weakening  when it gets stretched causing breakage approx. six feet up the line certainly raises an eye brow (per cranking guru David Fritts) requiring stripping off six feet of line at a time for re-ties is expensive / disconcerting .  

[zelmo]

On 11/21/2020 at 3:40 PM, Team9nine said:

Big difference between 'retie' (as in the link provided) and 'replace.' Ditto @J Francho as I commonly go 2-3 years or more with most fluoro spools on my baitcasters. As long as you've kept your outfits in good conditions, the line will last a long time. Yes, check for wear in the last several feet; retie as needed. And I will replace if I get a major backlash that I feel might have compromised the integrity of the line further into the spool (usually from trying to get the backlash out, not the backlash itself), but that is the exception. 

 

I have lost lures several times on the cast when the FC coming off the spool was broken.  I assume it was due to the line being compromised from a backlash although I didn't remember it happening.  How do you know when you have a problem and need to change the line?

[Mike L]

Hold the line between your fingers, You’ll feel it as you reel back. 
 

 

Mike

 

 

[detroit1]

I use flouro for leader material only.  I have not tried it for mainline for years, and won't any time soon. I don't use my line to help my bait's sinking ability, rate of fall, or to help keep it on the bottom. That is why we have different choices with lure or weight weight. (?)  If it's not braid, it's XL for my mainline. I am old AND cheap,and i will never buy any type of line "conditioner".  

[Team9nine]

8 hours ago, ChrisD46 said:

*Now rethinking FC  as a main line based on replies and further reading from Pros : The phenomena of FC line weakening  when it gets stretched causing breakage approx. six feet up the line certainly raises an eye brow (per cranking guru David Fritts) requiring stripping off six feet of line at a time for re-ties is expensive / disconcerting .  

 

I’m no David Fritts, but I’ve been testing this out at home with a micrometer and have found that the “necking” which can lead to breaking, in my outfits, happens within 6” of the knot. As such, I have been fine just retying after snipping off about a foot of line from the end. 

 

3 hours ago, zelmo said:

 

I have lost lures several times on the cast when the FC coming off the spool was broken.  I assume it was due to the line being compromised from a backlash although I didn't remember it happening.  How do you know when you have a problem and need to change the line?

 

If you just lost the lure from the end, it is probably just a matter of checking the last couple feet with your fingers, and retying more frequently as a precaution, especially after landing several nice fish or any particularly hard fights.

 

If your line is snapping more down the spool, it’s probably from backlashing. Remove backlashes slowly and carefully, and avoid tugging at the ‘V’ notches that tend to form as you work the backlashes out.

[WRB]

I have always cut off about 3’ of line when retrying and check about 5’.

Necked line also occurs by sharp hook barbs with laying on the deck.

Tom

[NoShoes]

On 11/20/2020 at 1:09 PM, roadwarrior said:

Even with the cheapest line on the planet I don't know how you do that.

I'm trying leader to braid on most of my baitcasters, but I am not totally

sold. That saves some money,  but I'm still budgeting something north

of $50 a month.

 

50 a month for just line???

 

 20 bucks for 300 yds of power pro. (4 reels worth with backing), 30 bucks on tatsu (right day on amazon) and I’m set for at least a year for 50 bucks.

 

That’s what? 100 two yard leaders?  And the braid should get at least a year. 

[mcipinkie]

If I was throwing straight FC, and fishing tournaments hard again, I doubt 50 bucks a month would cover my line cost without a sponsor. 

 

I'd be respooling 4 - 10 rods at least 4 times a month.  Used to with mono before FC and braid came out.  Bought the big 3,000, or whatever they were, yard service spools. 

 

Another reason I went to braid & leader, but if I thought FC was the way to go, I would spend the money.  Heck, that's one tank of gas in the truck or half a tank in boat.

[J Francho]

Why respoool the FC so frequently?  You wouldn't respool braid that much.  

[YoTone]

I just ordered some floro to use for my jerkbaits. I feel like when using braid the lure seems to rise more than I'd like. That and thinking the floro might foul less than braid. No idea how its going to work but but I thought I'd give it a try.

[Gary_Snyder]

I would not say that fluoro is a must, but it's helpful:

 

1) For sensitivity when fishing baits where the line sometimes goes slack, like soft plastics.

 

2) Windy conditions.

 

3) Maybe when you want your line to sink faster - as an example, to get a crankbait to run deeper.

[mcipinkie]

I would suggest that all you lovers of FC flavored Kool - Aid quit reading ads, and the posts of other FC lovers, and pros that are paid to hype their sponsor's products, and spool up some line and make an objective test of what really works for you.  I have, all the way from 8 lb test line to 25 lb test, and can find no difference that I can determine between FC and mono.  Mind you, I am using braid with a leader 100% of the time that I'm not using braid alone.

 

I'm not being critical.  I drank the Kool-Aid in barrels when FC first hit the market.  Like most of us at that time, I paid far too much for it, but it had to be the best thing going.  Spent a lot of money on FC.

 

Tackle Tour's tests showed minimal measurable differences between FC and mono.  Those tests are what got me really thinking about what worked and made me quit listening to sponsored ads. 

 

If you like FC, and believe it is of value to you, use it.  Fishing is a head game, anyway.  If you think something works, it does.

 

[ChrisD46]

3 hours ago, mcipinkie said:

I would suggest that all you lovers of FC flavored Kool - Aid quit reading ads, and the posts of other FC lovers, and pros that are paid to hype their sponsor's products, and spool up some line and make an objective test of what really works for you.  I have, all the way from 8 lb test line to 25 lb test, and can find no difference that I can determine between FC and mono.  Mind you, I am using braid with a leader 100% of the time that I'm not using braid alone.

 

I'm not being critical.  I drank the Kool-Aid in barrels when FC first hit the market.  Like most of us at that time, I paid far too much for it, but it had to be the best thing going.  Spent a lot of money on FC.

 

Tackle Tour's tests showed minimal measurable differences between FC and mono.  Those tests are what got me really thinking about what worked and made me quit listening to sponsored ads. 

 

If you like FC, and believe it is of value to you, use it.  Fishing is a head game, anyway.  If you think something works, it does.

 

Interesting - good comments . Slack line sensitivity might be the area where FC line is apt to shine the best ?

[Sphynx]

A MUST as in non negotiable? No technique falls under that heading for me, I fished monofilament for years as a main line, could do it again too, and catch fish even shockingly, as to where I prefer it? Gin clear water, on a finesse rod as a leader more often than not, I will spool up a reel with FC as a main for some crankbaits, namely deep diving ones because it lets me get down there faster, and I have been known to throw jerkbaits on 10# FC, but I would consider it preferable only in gin clear water or where it gets me deeper faster when it matters, like deep cranking...in nearly every other application I prefer braid to mono, FC has too many downsides and is too much trouble to be a good option for a main line in my experience and opinion. 

[mcipinkie]

Short Fish,  Question, not being critical, trying to make people think.  It's the old school teacher coming back out in me.

 

Have you actually tried FC to see if you can get a crankbait deeper on it than mono, or are you reading ads? 

 

Believe me, I have.  IMHO, based on what I've seen, what matters is line diameter, not line type.  Small diameter line will always get deeper than big diameter regardless of type.  Line labels are interesting reading for the variation in diameters between brands and within a brand.  I throw deep cranks on 20 or 30 lb. braid, with a 10, 12, 15 mono leader depending on what I'm throwing and where.  Right now, and I'm still using up my FC stash, I'm throwing jerk baits in open water on 8 lb FC.  Anxious to try mono and see how in works.  I'm using about a 15' leader in front of 20 lb braid on bait casters and 10 on spinners.

 

As I said, "If you think it works, it does." 

[Team9nine]

20 minutes ago, mcipinkie said:

Short Fish,  Question, not being critical, trying to make people think.  It's the old school teacher coming back out in me.

 

Have you actually tried FC to see if you can get a crankbait deeper on it than mono, or are you reading ads? 

 

Believe me, I have.  IMHO, based on what I've seen, what matters is line diameter, not line type.  Small diameter line will always get deeper than big diameter regardless of type.  Line labels are interesting reading for the variation in diameters between brands and within a brand.  I throw deep cranks on 20 or 30 lb. braid, with a 10, 12, 15 mono leader depending on what I'm throwing and where.  Right now, and I'm still using up my FC stash, I'm throwing jerk baits in open water on 8 lb FC.  Anxious to try mono and see how in works.  I'm using about a 15' leader in front of 20 lb braid on bait casters and 10 on spinners.

 

As I said, "If you think it works, it does." 

 

Agreed, and this has been thoroughly tested. No crankbait diving depth difference of any consequence between fluoro and mono. It's all about diameter and distance 

[ChrisD46]

*Perhaps MUST is a little strong - how about highly desirable or preferred ? 

While you can use an FC leader to braid mainline  to defeat line shy bass in clear water I believe FC main line to be highly desirable / preferred for slack line sensitivity and dragging bottom contact T-Rigs and Jigs ... True or False ?

[Russ E]

7 minutes ago, ChrisD46 said:

*Perhaps MUST is a little strong - how about highly desirable or preferred ? 

While you can use an FC leader to braid mainline  to defeat line shy bass in clear water I believe FC main line to be highly desirable / preferred for slack line sensitivity and dragging bottom contact T-Rigs and Jigs ... True or False ?

true. slack line sensitivity is the only reason I use fluorocarbon.

Here in eastern Kansas most water is stained, so line visibility is a not a major concern.

on leaders for braid I usually use mono or copoly.

[Team9nine]

3 minutes ago, ChrisD46 said:

*Perhaps MUST is a little strong - how about highly desirable or preferred ? 

While you can use an FC leader to braid mainline  to defeat line shy bass in clear water I believe FC main line to be highly desirable / preferred for slack line sensitivity and dragging bottom contact T-Rigs and Jigs ... True or False ?

 

True - 

 

Braid is good sensitivity-wise when dragging, but not so slack-lined, regardless of leader material used (different physical properties that don't transfer much beyond the leader knot).

[Mike L]

38 minutes ago, ChrisD46 said:

*Perhaps MUST is a little strong - how about highly desirable or preferred ? 

While you can use an FC leader to braid mainline  to defeat line shy bass in clear water I believe FC main line to be highly desirable / preferred for slack line sensitivity and dragging bottom contact T-Rigs and Jigs ... True or False ?

True!!

 

 

 

Mike

[MassYak85]

I use Braid to leader for 90% of my fishing. The only exceptions are Frogs/Punching which is straight braid, and large treble hook swimbaits which is straight copoly for a little added forgiveness with the bigger lures. I've tried straight fluoro for one season and did not like it. The slack line sensitivity was nice but in my experience one bad backlash was lights out for your spool of line, which for the cost of the stuff was sickening when it happened. Even one kink and the line was compromised. I broke fish off 20 yards from the bait multiple times because of it. (This was sunline sniper if anyone is wondering). Maybe I'll give it another shot one day but I really don't feel I'm giving much up by using braid. 

[ChrisD46]

20 hours ago, MassYak85 said:

I use Braid to leader for 90% of my fishing. The only exceptions are Frogs/Punching which is straight braid, and large treble hook swimbaits which is straight copoly for a little added forgiveness with the bigger lures. I've tried straight fluoro for one season and did not like it. The slack line sensitivity was nice but in my experience one bad backlash was lights out for your spool of line, which for the cost of the stuff was sickening when it happened. Even one kink and the line was compromised. I broke fish off 20 yards from the bait multiple times because of it. (This was sunline sniper if anyone is wondering). Maybe I'll give it another shot one day but I really don't feel I'm giving much up by using braid. 

*Curious if you were using a 50 yard top shot of FC line with mono backing and still finding line management  issues ?