Need new paddle.

[JustJames]

Looking to buy new kayak paddle to replace the lost one. I don’t use kayak very often so I’ll go with a budget type around 100 dollars. Any recommendations? I’m 5’7 and my kayak is 32” width, I should look for 240cm paddle. correct?

[J Francho]

230-250 will be fine.  I use an AT Oracle full carbon with a custom bent shaft, that is adjustable for length.  You get the same adjustable length paddle for around $120 without all the fancy materials.  It's the most aggressive blade shape they make.

[TnRiver46]

I’ve never given more than $44 and I still have the first one I ever bought, still works just like it did day 1 (shorelander brand)

[CountryboyinDC]

$100 will probably buy a aluminum shaft plastic blade paddle, which will be durable as all get out, but not great to paddle long distances with (read heavy).  Somewhere around 230 cm should be about right, but everyone holds a paddle a little different.  Something like https://www.austinkayak.com/Bending-Branches-Angler-Scout-Kayak-Paddle/ACK8185P.html, https://www.austinkayak.com/Carlisle-Magic-Aluminum-Paddle/ACK28631P.html.  I would pay the extra $30-$50 for a fiberglass handle, personally.  Still very durable, but a good bit lighter.  One like @J Francho is lighter still and good for keeping wrist pain down, but you can get into some money quickly.  

[DogBone_384]

You want a stiff, and as light as your budget allows, paddle.

 

I started with a BPS brand and upgraded to a Cannon fiberglass when I bought my first Lure 11.5.

 

The stiffer the paddle, the less energy is lost while paddling, making for a better overall experience.

[CountryboyinDC]

2 hours ago, TnRiver46 said:

I’ve never given more than $44 and I still have the first one I ever bought, still works just like it did day 1 (shorelander brand)

It probably weighs 3 pounds.  I've got a friend that uses a Caviness that's definitely durable and fine for fishing the river he does.  If he actually had to paddle for propulsion across a currentless body of water for 10 miles or so, he'd be looking for a $400+ Werner, I guarantee it.  I still have different paddles that I use for shallow, rocky river fishing.  You get nothing other than ounces saved (maybe a little better blade design, but not a lot) for all that you pay, but after a day of paddling, it's worth it.

[TnRiver46]

47 minutes ago, CountryboyinDC said:

It probably weighs 3 pounds.  I've got a friend that uses a Caviness that's definitely durable and fine for fishing the river he does.  If he actually had to paddle for propulsion across a currentless body of water for 10 miles or so, he'd be looking for a $400+ Werner, I guarantee it.  I still have different paddles that I use for shallow, rocky river fishing.  You get nothing other than ounces saved (maybe a little better blade design, but not a lot) for all that you pay, but after a day of paddling, it's worth it.

Oh I don’t doubt there are much lighter and better paddles, I just know I’ve abused the heck out of mine and I can paddle all day with no fatigue. Kind of like when someone asked Herschel walker if he was tired after carrying the ball 40 times in a single game and his reply was “that ball ain’t heavy!” I’m far from the Herschel walker of kayaking but I don’t even think about my paddle as cumbersome on a 12+ hour trip that might cover 10 or more miles.  I also wanted to buy several more of this paddle  and have never seen them again, kind of weird. I run some trips occasionally for a local outfitter and I used a bending branches paddle that I’m sure was lighter but I didn’t notice. What I did like about it was the diameter, seemed thinner and for whatever reason that felt helpful. My boss there says he can get them on a pro deal for $80, not sure what MSRP would be  

[JustJames]

Thanks all,
I’m not really looking for long range paddle and definitely no current but quite windy in 5-10 mph. I’m not looking for fancy ones either but at least some blade quality that not gonna wrapped, why my budget only around 100.

My old one is just a local brand aluminum shaft 230cm which I had no problem with (only hit the size of kayak every once awhile)

I have a few paddle in mind though.

1. Pelican Angler Symbiosa

90 bucks, adjustable length 230-240cm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0845GMYBP/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1&th=1

2.Carlisle Magic Plus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B084KP86LR/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AU8KF031TC39C&psc=1

 

[CountryboyinDC]

@TnRiver46 I've never heard of that brand, but I'm guessing it's and aluminum shaft, plastic blade paddle.  They're definitely durable, just like the canoe paddles of the same construction.  I didn't realize that I was somewhat sensitive to equipment until I went into the military.  I realized that I don't like heavy triggers on rifles (fine on fully automatic belt-fed rifles where you don't want to squeeze the trigger, though) and paddling equipment in general.  The guys that had never been in a canoe didn't know how bad a Zodiac is to paddle with the heaviest paddle that will float is, but I sure did.  And the longer in the tooth I get, the more I want light equipment. 

As for a small diameter diameter paddle, a lot of people prefer those - you wouldn't believe the number of people that like the feel of my son's paddle, an Aquabound youth paddle.  I know a bunch of Werners touring paddles come in the smaller shaft size, surely AT, Accent, etc. might as well.  It might be worth checking out.

[CountryboyinDC]

@Bass_Fishing_Socal, of those 2, I think I'd like the Pelican blade shape better, although it's really hard to tell.  To be honest, I didn't know Pelican made paddles, although I see a fair amount of Pelican kayaks.  Carlisle is an old name in paddles, sort of famous for their livery paddles.  If you were going for the 230 cm version, you could save $34, so their's that.  Both of these are fiberglass-handled, plastic bladed paddles, and with the reviews and description on Amazon, there may not be a huge difference between the 2.

Without seeing you in your kayak, I can't say what length paddle is best.  If you're not worried about hitting the side now and again, 230 is probably fine.  The longer your paddle, the more horizontal your paddle stroke is likely to be, which wastes energy when you're trying to go forward.  But hitting the side of your kayak scares the fish, I'm sure.  I'm 6'0, I guess reasonably normally proportioned, and I used to use a 230 cm paddle on a Wilderness Ride 135 (I think it was 31 or 32 inches wide), and I use a 240 cm on my Jackson Coosa HD, which is 33-33 inches wide.  

[J Francho]

My first paddle was a Carlisle Magic Plus.  It worked pretty well with my OG Big Game, which paddled like a sheet of plywood.  Now that I think of it, it didn't have a sticky ferrule, like the cheapo no name aluminum shaft paddle I have for the guest boat.

[Bankc]

I use a Bending Branches Angler Classic.  It's a good paddle, durable, fiberglass handle.  A bit on the expensive side, but not ridiculously so, and right around your budget.  The blades are firm, the paddle is light weight, and it's held up to some abuse without showing any signs of wear.  The only issue I've had is the two sections can be a bit hard to pull apart due to the tight fit.  A little grease or oil fixes that though.  I'd definitely avoid any metal handled paddle, if for no other reason than they can get hot in the sun, and cold in the winter.  

 

I'm 6'2" but have relatively narrow shoulders and short arms for my height.  My kayak is about 32" wide.  I went with a 260cm paddle.  That's longer than what's recommended, but it allows me to paddle while standing up and makes paddling a bit easier on my back (which has problems).  I can't generate as much power from my torso as some people, or I'll hurt myself.  My seat also sits higher up than on a lot of kayaks, so the extra length is good for me.  

 

My point being, those charts telling you what length paddle you need don't really factor everything you need to consider into them.  Your standing height and the kayak's width obviously play a role.  But so does the height of your seat, your shoulder width, arm length, and torso height.  Plus, your paddling style matters.  They're a good starting point, but you really need to decide for yourself.  Plus, those charts are usually designed with sit inside kayaks in mind, rather than SOT fishing kayaks.  You just have to get some experience and figure out what works for you.  Since you're replacing an old paddle, you have a baseline to go against.  If your old paddle was too short or too long, then you know which direction to lean.  If it seemed about right, then just get another one that length.  Trust your own experience here.  You'll be happier if you do.

[DogBone_384]

I forgot to add that aluminum paddles will get cold. Something to consider if you live in a cold climate.

[Crankin4Bass]

@Bass_Fishing_Socal Do you still have the Pescador Pro 10? I have that kayak and I use a 240 cm Werner Camano. It's higher priced than what you are looking for, but maybe take a look at the Werner Skagit. It's $135 but you can get 20% of at REI right now if you are a member with code "GEARUP2020" bringing the cost down to $108. It's the same shape as the Camano and has a carbon/fiberglass shaft.

[TcRoc]

Aqua bound manta ray hybrid 250 size.. yes longer than recommended but works well for me .. I tried the 240 and didn’t like it.

[kjfishman]

On 11/16/2020 at 12:17 PM, Bass_Fishing_Socal said:

Looking to buy new kayak paddle to replace the lost one. I don’t use kayak very often so I’ll go with a budget type around 100 dollars. Any recommendations? I’m 5’7 and my kayak is 32” width, I should look for 240cm paddle. correct?

$79.99 for Ascend Tournament Kayak Paddle, fiberglass shaft not aluminum. Good value for the money.

[Stasher1]

While blade shape and handle composition are definitely important, blade rigidity needs to be evaluated as well. A nice light handle won't matter much if excessive blade flex requires you to paddle your butt off to propel yourself forward at a decent speed. 

 

I've had good luck with the current production Carlisle Magic. Sturdy enough to survive a couple tumbles in whitewater, rigid blade, and a decent price. The older models had some issues with sticky ferrules, but the current models are using a different ferrule design that seems to work a lot better. I think my current one was about $80 shipped from ACK.

[JustJames]

Thanks everyone, I did considered all you guys mentioned here, especially Aqua bound Stingray fiberglass 90 bucks and bending branches angler classic 120 bucks even Werner Skagit. Yes I still have Pescador pro 100 but as I said I haven’t use it a lot only once or twice a this year. I considered a lot of pros and cons, wasn’t gonna get Carlisle Magis Plus due to its weight at 40oz compare to others 30-34oz but with price tag at 60 and too lazy to shop on Black Friday. I ended up order Carlisle 230cm today. If I use it a lot next season I might consider upgrade along the line.

[FishTank]

Aqua Bound Sting Ray.  It retails for $150 but I found it on sale for $100 last year.   I would say its a beginners to experienced paddle.  I think after some use, I like it and it gets the job done effectively but it makes me want a better one after using some of the more advanced/expensive paddles. 

[Boomstick]

The Bending Branches Angler Classic is pretty decent. You might be able to find a deal and get one closer to $100. Works well if you prefer high and or low angle paddling, and has a ruler so you can use it to measure any fish you catch and a hook remover as a bonus feature.

[bulldog1935]

with so many friends on this thread, I tend to keep my mouth zipped.  

I can best explain it with an anecdote.  

I bought my daughter a Werner paddle (Shuna, carbon bent-shaft) when she outgrew her kid paddle - about 12.  Right away, she would cross the flat upwind before the grown men.  By the time she was 15, I couldn't keep up with her any more. 

I was using the top-line A/T - it was a Harmony product, seemed right with a Wilderness boat.  

I bought myself the Werner Camano carbon bent-shaft, and got my edge back - I left her behind on the new paddle maiden crossing on Boerne City Lake.    

There's a reason Werner's blade design is patented - it both enters and leaves the water more efficiently. The difference will be felt in your joints at the end of the day.  

IMO, the best buy in kayak paddles are the glass-blade Werner's.  I propel my 16' Tarpon with the glass-blade Corryvecken, the largest-blade-area paddle made.  I can keep up with my friends in Hobies and Mirage drive, except when they want to stretch their legs out.  The straight-carbon-shaft glass blade Werner is only one-ounce difference from my all-carbon bent-shaft Camano.  

In my racy little Kestrel, my friends with Hobie Mirage drive can't keep up with me and the Werner Camano touring paddle.  The Corryvecken badly oversteers the Kestrel, and makes it tougher to keep your balance.  

What you gain with bent shaft is automatically placing your hands in the position for most efficient paddling.  

If you know where, you can do the same thing on your straight-shaft paddle with indexed-position grips.  

I made these grips by rolling on thin closed cell foam with 3M 77 spray contact cement and covering with X-shrink tube.  

[JustJames]

I think I’m happy with Magic Plus for now, my lake is not that big only 4-500 acres and I have a lot of locations to get the kayak on water depends on spot I wanna fish mostly isolated from wind and not very far.

I understand you guys point exactly, when I upgraded my float tube fins to Force Fin, it was night and day, easier to kick, faster and I can manage in calm wind, yet I hardly use the tube. If you don’t know by now I’m a lazy type lol. The next upgrade for me would be pedal drive kayak but that is up to my lovely wife lol.