Rod Components Buying Order?

[Michigander]

So I am ready to order the parts for my first rod build and have everything picked out but I'm stuck on not knowing what ID sizes to order for some of the components. Is the normal way to order the blank, guides, grip, and butt first and then order the other parts as a second order after getting the measurements?

[MickD]

With experience you'll get this down better than it is now.  Separating orders is bad because shipping costs much more than it will with a single order, in most cases.

 

You can ask the people you are ordering from to help, most are very good.  Or ask right here, give a lot of detail on what you're trying to accomplish.  Cast or spin?  Specific components planned?  etc.    Or you can message me if you think I can help, i will be glad to.

 

If spin, IMHO, don't even consider reel seats smaller than a 17.  Bad ergonomics.  I don't even use 16's on ultra lights.

[Michigander]

1 hour ago, MickD said:

With experience you'll get this down better than it is now.  Separating orders is bad because shipping costs much more than it will with a single order, in most cases.

 

You can ask the people you are ordering from to help, most are very good.  Or ask right here, give a lot of detail on what you're trying to accomplish.  Cast or spin?  Specific components planned?  etc.    Or you can message me if you think I can help, i will be glad to.

 

If spin, IMHO, don't even consider reel seats smaller than a 17.  Bad ergonomics.  I don't even use 16's on ultra lights.

Casting rod and I'm going with the Bushido LS7/10-20 blank:

Item	LS7/10-20
Description	Bushido 7’0” Light Saltwater 10-20 lb.
Length	7’0”
Line WT.	10-20 lb.
Lure Rating	3/8 - 1 oz.
Butt	.527”
Tip	5.5
Blank WT.	2.41 oz.
Action	Mod-Fast
Power	Med-Heavy

And I'm going with the MINIMA Ultra-Lite Exposed Blank Casting Reel Seat because I have this on another rod and like it. However, there are thirteen ID size choices on this seat between 9.5mm and 15.5mm. So I have no idea what to pick at this point.

 

Also, not sure how to pick the correct size of aluminum winding checks which suffer from the same problem of lots of ID size choices. 

 

[.ghoti.]

Measure the diameter of the blank, where you are going to place the reel. Ditto for all winding checks.

[Michigander]

2 minutes ago, .ghoti. said:

Measure the diameter of the blank, where you are going to place the reel. Ditto for all winding checks.

So order winding checks and reel seat after receiving the blank.

[.ghoti.]

If you know exactly where the seat and checks will be placed, contact your supplier. Some of them will size components for you. Be exact, or don’t try this method.

[Michigander]

3 minutes ago, .ghoti. said:

If you know exactly where the seat and checks will be placed, contact your supplier. Some of them will size components for you. Be exact, or don’t try this method.

I don't know the precise placement yet. So sounds like I need to order the blank tonight to get this show on the road. I'll miss Mudhole's pre Black Friday for some of the parts but I can get the majority ordered. Thanks!

[MickD]

2 hours ago, Michigander said:

Casting rod and I'm going with the Bushido LS7/10-20 blank:

 

 

Item	LS7/10-20
Description	Bushido 7’0” Light Saltwater 10-20 lb.
Length	7’0”
Line WT.	10-20 lb.
Lure Rating	3/8 - 1 oz.
Butt	.527”
Tip	5.5
Blank WT.	2.41 oz.
Action	Mod-Fast
Power	Med-Heavy

And I'm going with the MINIMA Ultra-Lite Exposed Blank Casting Reel Seat because I have this on another rod and like it. However, there are thirteen ID size choices on this seat between 9.5mm and 15.5mm. So I have no idea what to pick at this point.

 

Also, not sure how to pick the correct size of aluminum winding checks which suffer from the same problem of lots of ID size choices. 

 

.527 is 13.4 mm.  But you are not placing the seat at the butt.  You probably need about a 12.5 mm seat, but ask the source where you buy the blank and the seat what size you need if you put the reel level wind guide about 14 inches (or your planned dimension-if you have a rod you like use that dimension)  from the butt.  That will get you the seat.  If it's a little small, better than a little big.  You can ream it out.

 

With checks, if you need them, if you use the flexible "rubber/vinyl" checks, they will stretch.  I prefer them to the gaudy metal ones which look to my like too much make-up on a woman.  No gender insult intended, a bad toupee on a male is the same thing.  Order a bunch of them in the range you need.  Lure parts online has them for $.34 each.  If you choose to use metal, estimate their size; they will be a little smaller than the butt diameter.  Better to go bigger rather than smaller because you don't want them tight to the blank which can scratch the blank and even may fail it if the deflection of the blank under load gets back into the grip area.  If they are too large, wrap thread under them to make the diameter on which they are mounted a little larger.  Hope this helps, feel free to ask further questions.

[spoonplugger1]

All you need to know is how long your rear grip is, after that everything falls into place for your supplier, they throw it all in the tube with the blank and you get all the correct parts on the same, or similar nickel as a bare blank would be. It is your choice though.

[Michigander]

Well, I'm building a pair of these with slightly different measurements and components. I think I'll just go the slow route for my first piecemeal custom builds. I think I'll benefit from doing all the measurements myself as I'll understand things better for future builds. Thanks everyone for your help!

[Lyman X]

You made the right decision.

[MickD]

Many casting reel seats come with specific ID's that will fit nicely onto your blank.  Pick the one just over the OD of the blank, or let the source pick it as suggested above.  If it's slightly too tight you can ream it.   Review this article to ensure best epoxy bond.  To prepare the bores of seats I put a strip of foam abrasive into the patch slot of a shotgun cleaning rod and spin it with a drill driver.  https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html

Note especially the section on solvents.  And consider that the author is one of the most respected authorities on rodbuilding and epoxies.  He has formulated epoxies and knows what he is talking about.

[Michigander]

35 minutes ago, MickD said:

Many casting reel seats come with specific ID's that will fit nicely onto your blank.  Pick the one just over the OD of the blank, or let the source pick it as suggested above.  If it's slightly too tight you can ream it.   Review this article to ensure best epoxy bond.  To prepare the bores of seats I put a strip of foam abrasive into the patch slot of a shotgun cleaning rod and spin it with a drill driver.  https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/waterfree.html

Note especially the section on solvents.  And consider that the author is one of the most respected authorities on rodbuilding and epoxies.  He has formulated epoxies and knows what he is talking about.

I don't think the cleaning rod for my shotgun will survive a drill, but I can rig something equivalent up.

 

Should I key the skeleton seat to the thinner diameter of the front piece and bore the back piece to ensure the tightest fit then?

[Bass Junke]

17 hours ago, Michigander said:

Well, I'm building a pair of these with slightly different measurements and components. I think I'll just go the slow route for my first piecemeal custom builds. I think I'll benefit from doing all the measurements myself as I'll understand things better for future builds. Thanks everyone for your help!

Very true. I built my first rod using a rainshadow blueprint. Came out pretty good but didn't learn much. 

 

Second rod, bought the blank, did the measurements, selected the guides I thought I wanted, then ordered all the components. Paid a little extra in shipping but learned so much more doing it this way. 

 

When everything arrived wouldn't you know I did all the measurements right and everything fit. 

 

Love it when a plan comes together. 

[Michigander]

[MickD]

6 hours ago, Michigander said:

I don't think the cleaning rod for my shotgun will survive a drill, but I can rig something equivalent up.

 

Should I key the skeleton seat to the thinner diameter of the front piece and bore the back piece to ensure the tightest fit then?

My cleaning rod is a sectional one and I use just the last section.  Yes, I would do that.  There is not much taper in that short distance and if it is a little tight it would be easy to ream.  You don't want a press fit, and you don't want a line to line fit, and you don't want a sloppy fit.  Big help, right?  If you tell the supplier where you will place the front piece they can select it for you.  When you glue it on you will push epoxy out in front of the pieces so be prepared with paper towels and denatured alcohol.  Make sure you dry fit and understand the order you're going to do things in before you start mixing your epoxy.  I like Rod Bond paste epoxy (ten minute Quick Bond) because it stays put well, gives adequate time to work.   I have used light build Flex Coat wrap epoxy for years, but many builders are really raving about a new one on the market called Gen 4.  I have tried it on one rod and it seems OK, but others say it levels better and bubbles burst more with it than others.  I like light build since I usually have a thread nib sticking out after the first coat and I can get a second coat on without the "football" shape forming.  I personally like my wraps to be cylindrically shaped, not shaped like footballs.  These nibs can be simply cut off with a sharp razor blade.

[Michigander]

Ok, when I get my measurements for the skeleton seat I'll ask Mudhole to recommend a size. I'm sure I'll understand what the gap should be after getting the one they say to use.

 

For the mounting epoxy, I got the regular Pro Paste. They had a fast cure version but I went with the slow stuff so I could take my sweet time as I'm a novice and may need extra time for fiddling.

 

Is denatured alcohol the preferred choice for cleaning the excess epoxy? I've got a bunch of 91/99% isopropyl alcohol handy that I use for cleaning my 3D printed parts. 

[MickD]

I use that 90 % isopropyl all the time.  Lots of folks use denatured.  I see no difference in performance.  I couldn't remember the word "isopropyl" when I wrote the post.  :-)

[Michigander]

3 minutes ago, MickD said:

I use that 90 % isopropyl all the time.  Lots of folks use denatured.  I see no difference in performance.  I couldn't remember the word "isopropyl" when I wrote the post.  :-)

Ok, cool. I could go get denatured if it's better but I had about 2 gallons of isopropyl before the pandemic started and it became impossible to get. Still have about 3/4 gallon left. After the bill I racked up on Mudhole last night, I'm content to not spend any money for a bit. 

[Black Hawk Basser]

On 11/16/2020 at 3:17 PM, MickD said:

I like light build since I usually have a thread nib sticking out after the first coat and I can get a second coat on without the "football" shape forming.  I personally like my wraps to be cylindrically shaped, not shaped like footballs.  These nibs can be simply cut off with a sharp razor blade.

Same here, 100%

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

The hard part of installing split seats is keeping the proper alignment and distance between the pieces. Beware of that. Slower curing epoxy provides the strongest bond as well as longer pot life so that was the right call on both counts.