Soup spilled on reel

[Lead Head]

Just a note. You need to really know what you're doing if you use acetone on your reel. It does not play well with plastic. I would only use it on removed metal parts.

[MN Fisher]

5 minutes ago, Lead Head said:

Just a note. You need to really know what you're doing if you use acetone on your reel. It does not play well with plastic. I would only use it on removed metal parts.

Ya...this. I accidentally got some acetone on a plastic, push-on retainer-ring in my old Ambassaduer 500R - dissolved it. Had to get a replacement ring.

[niiickboy]

@MN Fisher what grease should i get? I went to walmart and they had none at all, so i guess i’ll have to order or wait until i can go to dicks or bass pro. I have automotive grease at home from my dad since he works on his car, but i heard it’s too thick for reels? Also i’m gonna open up the gear side of the reel today since i have time, but if it looks good (no soup?) do i really need to clean and regrease it anytime soon? (on the flip side how would i know if the surface is slimy from the soup or grease ?)

[MN Fisher]

I'm still using the Abu Reel Grease I got when I purchased my Ambassaduer 500R lo those many years ago...but now I'm starting to get low. I've heard good things about Cals, but as my Abu has performed well, it's a tossup.

 

Others may have other opinions. Don't take my word for it...get LOTS of opinions.

[niiickboy]

@MN Fisher honestly i guess as long as i stay with a brand name i should be fine, any a good amount of Youtube videos on cleaning and reassembling everyone SWEARS by a different grease and oil brand... also can you answer my other questions^

[MN Fisher]

2 minutes ago, niiickboy said:

also can you answer my other questions^

Whoops - got lost in the fog.

25 minutes ago, niiickboy said:

do i really need to clean and regrease it anytime soon?

Personally - if it was my reel, I'd do it before I went out again. Of course I have some experience in full-service of reels, so it's only a 2-3 hour job. Being new it might take a weekend's worth of work.

 

Be careful, be methodical, be attentive...that's the best thing.

[niiickboy]

so for sure no automotive grease and should i just stick to a simple cleaning for now like the shimano chart shows 

also for the end cap knobs to take it off i just pop off the covers and unscrew it?

[niiickboy]

so i’m starting to take it apart now, and i took off the tension knob, is the lube supposed to be this milky color or is it because water got to it? 

[MN Fisher]

11 minutes ago, niiickboy said:

so for sure no automotive grease and should i just stick to a simple cleaning for now like the shimano chart shows 

Personally - I'd go beyond that and do a full tear-down. If you're uncertain as to your skill, you can take it to a local shop that has reel maintenance service or send it to DVT (in the right-sidebar is a link). Mike's service is touted here as one of the best. Might take a couple weeks (or more) and cost a bit, but what you'll get back is basically a reel that's like new.

Just now, niiickboy said:

so i’m starting to take it apart now, and i took off the tension knob, is the lube supposed to be this milky color or is it because water got to it?

All depends on the grease...some can be a milky color.

[niiickboy]

so just making sure it doesn’t matter which way the retrieve is the cap that you use a 10mm wrench with you go lefty loosey and righty tightly right, because this thing is beyond tight lol

[niiickboy]

so i need help , i took it apart and carefully but this tiny thing fell out and i’m not sure where it goes

[niiickboy]

to be sure i am not missing anything in that picture^... i am pretty paranoid now after i saw the tiny piece that so happen to just show up on my table

 

 

okay so i finally figured out that piece is the clicker for the drag, but i finally put it together 2 hrs later lol, and now i’m realizing when the drag is turned “on” u can press down and “move” the drag star around like it’s loose right? or did i mess up putting it together again

[Hewhospeaksmuchbull]

20 hours ago, niiickboy said:

when the drag is turned “on” u can press down and “move” the drag star around like it’s loose right?

Are you saying that with a tightened drag, the drag star is loose immediately as you begin to back off drag?

 

There should be resistance as you begin to loosen drag star.

[niiickboy]

22 minutes ago, Hewhospeaksmuchbull said:

Are you saying that with a tightened drag, the drag star is loose immediately as you begin to back off drag?

 

There should be resistance as you begin to loosen drag star.

when the drag is loosened all the way, there is “no play” with the drag it’s stiff and tight, but when i tighten the drag becomes moveable, i guess that is how it is supposed to be? but i don’t remember from before, i’m not talking about actually turning it, that feels fine i mean the actual drag star feeling just a tad loose if tightened 

[roadwarrior]

[MidwestBassAttack]

Make sure you have that parts schematic open while you break it down. I just got done doing my first tear down and it was pretty easy. Take your time, as you take parts out, lay them out in the order you remove them as it makes re-assembly that much easier. Make sure your lighting is good and keep minimal distance between the reel and your work surface to prevent anything from falling and bouncing everywhere.

 

I had fun doing mine and plan on doing more this weekend. Good luck!

[niiickboy]

12 hours ago, BaitFinesse said:

That is normal if that reel has a drag star with a nut and spring.  As the star is tightened the nut is driven closer to the reel and a gap forms between the star and nut.  What this does is allow the drag star to remain in the same position on the crank crank shaft as it is tightened or loosened because a nut inside the star that free floats and moves in and out along the threaded crank shaft.  In the tightened position the nut is furthest away from the start and there is some movement allowed by the star and spring.  In reels with a treaded star the star moves to and from the reel and body and handle and it is tightened or loosened.  Shimanos and Tatulas use this nut and spring type drag star.      

thank you so much for that in dept answer, i kinda figured it was normal, but i just wanted to make sure since it was my first time.

7 hours ago, MidwestBassAttack said:

Make sure you have that parts schematic open while you break it down. I just got done doing my first tear down and it was pretty easy. Take your time, as you take parts out, lay them out in the order you remove them as it makes re-assembly that much easier. Make sure your lighting is good and keep minimal distance between the reel and your work surface to prevent anything from falling and bouncing everywhere.

 

I had fun doing mine and plan on doing more this weekend. Good luck!

it was pretty easy, the only thing that got me worried was when the tiny pin that makes the drag click just showed up on my table and i couldn’t figure it out and a spring from the inside fell out too but i figured that one out quick.

 

i believe i did everything right, but i feel like i lost a part, in the back of my head since i had a piece fall out onto the table and i didn’t even realize lol

[Columbia Craw]

I think I saw this in an episode of Seinfeld.

[niiickboy]

Is eagle claw grease any good/bad? that’s the only one at my dicks besides the penn grease but it comes with oil and i already have that, need answer ASAP

[Hewhospeaksmuchbull]

15 minutes ago, niiickboy said:

Is eagle claw grease any good/bad? that’s the only one at my dicks besides the penn grease but it comes with oil and i already have that, need answer ASAP

Run with it if its all you have on hand, worst is you may have to service the reel a little sooner.

[niiickboy]

I did some research and got the penn one for cheaper with price match lol got both the grease and oil for a dollar more than the eagle grease, but dicks trying to rip people off they charging 10.99 and on bass pro and academy it’s only 5.99

[MN Fisher]

35 minutes ago, niiickboy said:

Is eagle claw grease any good/bad? that’s the only one at my dicks besides the penn grease but it comes with oil and i already have that, need answer ASAP

 

Just now, niiickboy said:

I did some research and got the penn one for cheaper with price match lol got both the grease and oil for a dollar more than the eagle grease, but dicks trying to rip people off they charging 10.99 and on bass pro and academy it’s only 5.99

Good choice - I use Abu grease for now...until I run out. But between Eagle Claw and Penn...I'd have gone for the Penn.

[niiickboy]

i was gonna cheap out but realized rather spend money now than later on w cheaper stuff, but for the worm gear i was gonna use grease but should i take off as much oil as i can that’s on it or can i just put grease on it too. (is grease actually better or no difference between oil n grease)

[MN Fisher]

Just now, niiickboy said:

i was gonna cheap out but realized rather spend money now than later on w cheaper stuff, but for the worm gear i was gonna use grease but should i take off as much oil as i can that’s on it or can i just put grease on it too. (is grease actually better or no difference between oil n grease)

If you want grease on the worm gear (I'm assuming that's the level wind on a BC), use a THIN grease...not a gear grease. I personally oil the level wind.

 

If that's the worm gear on a spinning reel...then by all means use the grease.

[niiickboy]

yes level wind, someone called it a worm gear , so many different names ppl say