Bearings for dummies

[LCG]

Hoping i can get some help with cleaning and oiling bearings in a baitcaster. 

 

I am fairly new to maintaining my equipment, but I enjoy the learning curve and seeing how things work. 

 

My main question is what to do with bearings. I have read soak them in acetone and oil them. But when the bearings have those metal rings protecting them, how to you ensure a proper clean and lube? Afraid to try to remove the metal shield and mangling it. 

 

I am planning on using super lube for the gears and bantam oil for the bearings. 

 

I would greatly appreciate any help and direction. Want to have a clear understanding before I start the process. Don't be afraid to dumb it down, I take no offense

 

[The Bassman]

I just soak them in mineral spirits (paint thinner) then give them a spin on an old spool I have. Air dry for a little while and oil. You don't have to mess with the shields. Works for me. FWIW this thread will probably get moved to the rod, reel, and line forum. Good luck.

[garroyo130]

Once the bearings are removed, heres the process I follow. 

 

1. Remove the bearing shields with a pin

2. Drop the bearings in a baby food jar filled with MAF cleaner

3. Place the jar on top of the dryer on wash day 

4. Add a single drop of TSI 321 oil on the bearings and spin them (add yamalube blue grease to pinion bearing)

5. Add shield

 

You can probably get away with not removing the shields if you soak them longer. 

 

The lubricants you described should work fine. 

 

http://www.tackletour.com/articlebearings201pg2.html

[Jig Man]

I just put them in acetone and let them soak.  I use a kabob stick to swirl them around in the acetone after they have soaked.  Then I take them out blow on them, wipe them off and let them air dry.  I use a needle type oiler and put about 1/2 drop of oil on each one before putting them back in the reel.

[LCG]

1 hour ago, The Bassman said:

I just soak them in mineral spirits (paint thinner) then give them a spin on an old spool I have. Air dry for a little while and oil. You don't have to mess with the shields. Works for me. FWIW this thread will probably get moved to the rod, reel, and line forum. Good luck.

So is there enough room between the shield and the rim of the bearing for oil to enter? If so, I assume the shield is to keep larger pieces of dirt or whatever from entering. 

[garroyo130]

25 minutes ago, LCG said:

So is there enough room between the shield and the rim of the bearing for oil to enter? If so, I assume the shield is to keep larger pieces of dirt or whatever from entering. 

Theres definitely enough room for oil to enter, the reason i remove them is not for oil to enter, but to remove the grease. What typically happens if you dont remove them is the grease will collect on the non roller part of the bearing. It typically wont impact performance but when mixed with oil some of the grease may reenter the rollers on the bearing.

[diehardbassfishing]

Best thing you can do is remove shields. No question.

Makes cleaning effective, and oiling easier. Better anyway you look at it!

 

I usually remove only one shield. Depends what I see for ball keeper design inside. 

 

I use cigarette lighter fluid for cleaning. I feel better to handle over acetone - which can destroy plastic.

 

Karl

 

(Hopefully you have bearings with shields clipped in place - some are press fit. Removing press fit shields is difficult at best - risk bearing damage. I've done it. A learned skill.)

[JustJames]

Just Soaking them in acetone work but take a lot of time. To speed up the process use small mason jar, add acetone enough to just cover the bearing, then swirl the whole thing around gently.

I use aquarium air pump and secure the whole jar on top. The vibration from pump would help spin bearing around. Some will use  ultrasonic cleaner machine. This way I can soak them for 10-20 minutes not whole night. After the soaking process, I soak in 95% alcohol for a few minutes, let air dry, a drop of bantam oil.

[LCG]

14 minutes ago, diehardbassfishing said:

Hopefully you have bearings with shields clipped in place - some are press fit. Removing press fit shields is difficult at best - risk bearing damage

I have a Shimano Curado K and a newly acquired SLX MGL. Not sure how the bearings are shielded. The Curado K is still super smooth but has been used all season. 

[MickD]

OK, probably a dumb question, from one who has never taken a bearing apart or taken one out of the reel or cleaned one in place, who has just added a little oil now and then, what will I accomplish by doing the processes being mentioned in this subject?  (I dunked a reel once and had it professionally serviced)  thanks, 

[garroyo130]

3 minutes ago, LCG said:

I have a Shimano Curado K and a newly acquired SLX MGL. Not sure how the bearings are shielded. The Curado K is still super smooth but has been used all season. 

Both of those bearing designs will use clips which can be removed with a pin/needle. 

Just now, MickD said:

OK, probably a dumb question, from one who has never taken a bearing apart or taken one out of the reel or cleaned one in place, who has just added a little oil now and then, what will I accomplish by doing the processes being mentioned in this subject?  (I dunked a reel once and had it professionally serviced)  thanks, 

The biggest gain will be with spool bearings where removing the grease and adding only one drop of oil will make them significantly faster. While this may not result in additional casting distance (it has for me), it will make for smoother and more predictable casts.

[diehardbassfishing]

Oil progressively gets "pushed" out of the bearing. Unlike ceramic bearings, stainless steel bearings must have proper lubrication to avoid failure.

 

Not a good idea for the spool to sound "real bad" when casting before doing a lube job. 

 

 

Karl

[diehardbassfishing]

1 hour ago, garroyo130 said:

The biggest gain will be with spool bearings where removing the grease and adding only one drop of oil will make them significantly faster. While this may not result in additional casting distance (it has for me), it will make for smoother and more predictable casts.

Not all spool bearing ship with grease. Very few actually. Oil is typical.

 

Shimano in earlier days did use grease. They got tired of doing warranty repairs for neglected bearings.

 

 

Karl

[ike8120]

Be very careful when removing the bearing retainer clip, they like to fly into never, never land. Keep your finger on them when you remove them. Also I work in a carboard box lined with white paper so I can see all the small parts. Another suggestion is to take pictures before and during disassembly. Check you tube some good videos.

[LCG]

7 hours ago, garroyo130 said:

Add a single drop of TSI 321 oil on the bearings and spin them (add yamalube blue grease to pinion bearing)

So am I understanding this correctly in that only the spool bearing should be oiled, and the rest ie drive bearings, shaft bearing, pinion, and pinion support bearing should be greased? 

[garroyo130]

14 minutes ago, LCG said:

So am I understanding this correctly in that only the spool bearing should be oiled, and the rest ie drive bearings, shaft bearing, pinion, and pinion support bearing should be greased? 

All bearings can be oiled. 

 

I choose to grease the pinion support bearing only. All other bearings take oil on mine.

[diehardbassfishing]

Spool bearings most critical. With RPMs 20,000 and higher - good reason.

 

Second would be level wind worm gear. I use oil here - some use grease. Factory uses grease. Here reason is exposure. Gets lots of water exposure. Hopefully no grit dirt. Weed stuff common. But a fair amount of water!

 

 

Karl

[iabass8]

1 hour ago, LCG said:

So am I understanding this correctly in that only the spool bearing should be oiled, and the rest ie drive bearings, shaft bearing, pinion, and pinion support bearing should be greased? 

I use different lubricants depending on the bearing. Spool always gets oil. I prefer hedgehog oil. Frame bearings get a heavy synthetic 90wt gear oil or a grease cut I make depending on the reel. All shields are removed and never reinstalled. 

[LCG]

1 minute ago, iabass8 said:

All shields are removed and never reinstalled. 

I only fish in fresh water, would this be OK to remove the shields and it won't cause any issues? I guess it would make the whole process a lot easier. 

[iabass8]

Yes. Most of my reels have very high end bearings in them that come with either 1 shield or both shields removed. Running them shieldless is fine. 

[ike8120]

I use ReelX lubricant on the bearings. One drop goes a long way. You can also use this oil on any other parts that need lubrication.

[Log Catcher]

Be very careful using acetone. I nearly had a disaster the only time I have used it was for something I had to do at work. For that reason I bought an Ardent Reel Clean Kit. I don't have to worry about it eating up or damaging anything.

[diehardbassfishing]

3 hours ago, LCG said:

I only fish in fresh water, would this be OK to remove the shields and it won't cause any issues? I guess it would make the whole process a lot easier. 

Only fresh water for me. No issues. Plenty of hrs on multiple reels.

 

 

Karl

 

(I've actually never found water to reach my spool bearings.)

[LCG]

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the great advice. I feel a bit more confident to clean and lube my own reels without messing something up. 

[redmeansdistortion]

8 hours ago, LCG said:

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the great advice. I feel a bit more confident to clean and lube my own reels without messing something up. 

The first time you do it is the toughest time, but the more you do it the easier it gets.  Once you do it enough, you'll be like a one man NASCAR pit crew.