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  • Super User
Posted

image.thumb.jpeg.adc3b0b40277a9a7951f20c627eb0875.jpeg

 

  This is the end of a St. Croix Mojo Bass 7'-01" MH/F 2-pc. rod. As you can see, I have a propensity for breaking graphite.

   If I wanted to continue using this rod, what are my options? If I simply stick a new tiptop on there, what will be the effect on blank strength?

 

   Thank you.     jj

  • Super User
Posted

Strength....not too much of a change.

Action however will change quite a bit based on how much you lost. It's going to get faster.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

   Will the action be faster, or will the settling time be faster?   Thx.    jj

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Hey Jimmy, I think st croix mojos have a 5 year warranty. You could get it replaced for only the cost of shipping. If it’s past 5 years, I would still contact them and ask for a reasonable option. They are pretty good about replacing rods.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
2 minutes ago, gimruis said:

Hey Jimmy, I think st croix mojos have a 5 year warranty. You could get it replaced for only the cost of shipping. If it’s past 5 years, I would still contact them and ask for a reasonable option. They are pretty good about replacing rods.

 

   No. It was my fault.

   The thing is, this is the second time I've broken this rod and the fourth graphite rod in about 5 or 6 years. I have NEVER broken a fiberglass rod. Never. I'm getting to the point at which I really resent graphite. Yes, it's lighter. But it's just so dadgum BRITTLE!

   I am pretty sure that I can get a new upper wand for 35 bucks. But the thing is, it could break a third time. Why should I waste my money? If I could get a new tiptop on what's left of the rod now, I'd sure be money ahead!

   I just need to be sure a new tiptop will work OK.         jj

  • Super User
Posted
22 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

   Will the action be faster, or will the settling time be faster?   Thx.    jj

The action will be faster - less of the 'easily bendable' length is available. If it was a Fast, it might be an Extra-Fast now. If enough of the length was lost...it might be a broomstick.

  • Like 1
Posted

Shortening a rod from either end slows the action. Remember action is where it bends not how easily. Losing the tip will raise the casting weight significantly, how much exactly only trial will tell. A competent rod builder can splice it with imperceptible affect on performance. Probably looking at $40 give or take. Graphite isn’t brittle per se but the trade off for sensitivity and light weight is intolerance of rough handling or high sticking. It’s important that a rod not be bent with the tip beyond 90* to the butt. That pic is a classic high sticking break. 

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted
22 minutes ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

That pic is a classic high sticking break. 

 

   It's also a classic "rod-meets-rock" break.  Like I said, it's my fault.  ???  ???    jj

  • Sad 3
  • Super User
Posted

DVT is exactly right, if you just put a tiptop on, the action will slow, and slow a lot with that much gone.  It will sort of resemble a broomstick. (an exaggeration, but it will move significantly in that direction).  That will not yield a fishable rod, IMO.

 

Good to hear Jimmyjoe tell how it broke, because from a pic like that I don't believe one can diagnose very well how the break was caused.  You need a much closer, more detailed photo of the break area.

 

It can be repaired to be quite fishable, as stated by DVT, but it will get a little heavier in the tip.   And it will have a visible repair.  This tells how.  Before anyone argues that this process cannot yield a fishable rod, I have done it many times successfully.  In one case I broke a rod for which I had CCS numbers, and when I tested for them again after the break, they came in unchanged.  But the tip will be a little heavier.  The closer to the tip the break is, the more the weight will be felt and the more the response time will be affected.

 

https://www.rodbuilding.org/library/repair-oquinn.html

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
11 hours ago, jimmyjoe said:

No. It was my fault.

St Croix really doesn't care how you break it.  I've replaced a rod that I had leaning against the truck and slammed the tail gate shut on.  Its worth a try IMO.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

 

12 minutes ago, spoonplugger1 said:

Time to try composite rods maybe,

 

   I have some, but not much, knowledge of composite rods. If you would, could you give me a rundown of brands and models that I might consider?

   Thanks.    jj

Posted

Lamiglas does composites, I've used many, MHX does composites, NFC Deltas are composites, Thrasher I think may have some, you just got to look and ask questions of the companies. Rod building takes a bit of research and catalog/phone/e m ail time, you can't learn it here. Just remember to give them all the info as if they know nothing, because they can't read your mind. I write it m down first, set my parameters,  than ask.

  • Thanks 1
  • Super User
Posted
28 minutes ago, spoonplugger1 said:

ask questions of the companies.

 

   True, true. Right now, though, contact can be hit and miss. I'll do some investigation.    jj

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Jimmy Joe you can try the bass pro shop crankin stick. I have a 7’-3” heavy I’m using for chatterbaits. They’re relatively cheap (on sale quite frequently) and come in a good selection of lengths and powers. The bonus is bps is good with their warranty and return policy so if you break it or just don’t like it you can exchange/return it for something else.  

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
On 10/15/2020 at 9:08 PM, jimmyjoe said:

   Will the action be faster, or will the settling time be faster?   Thx.    jj

faster settling time, slower action as the current convention for describing action goes.  

  • Thanks 1

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