Another Crankbait Rod Question - Looking For Advice, Recommendations, Information

[ACGOG]

Hi Ya'll,

 

I'm starting to realize that even though I'm an avid fisherman and have been doing it for a long time I'm still a total noob, especially when it comes to gear. For years and years now I've always stuck with my old faithful, the Texas Rig. I'll throw on the occasional chatterbait but for the most part I'm a one trick pony. However, the past few weeks I haven't had as much luck as I'd like so I decided to change it up.

 

I did my due diligence and added a bunch of staples that were lacking from my tacklebox, including a couple of Megabass S Crank 2.0 lures. I just received them today and apparently wasn't paying attention to the fact that they're 1oz in weight. The rod I was planning on using was my GLX M/H EF but the lure weight is only 1/8 - 7/16.

 

I've read if you don't match the lure weight a lot of bad things could potentially happen like breaking the rod, not being able to set the hook, etc. It seems at a glance that using a lure that's almost double the highest recommended weight would qualify for all of the bad things to happen; would that be an accurate statement? If I did need to get a new rod, I've seen Dobyns as a recommended budget brand but don't mind spending more. I was hoping to get another G-Loomis rod but the only dedicated crankbait rod is a casting rod and there don't seem to be any spinning rods that can handle a 1oz lure. Is there another rod out there that will give me the sensitivity and the feel of my GLX and NRX?

 

Any advice, tips, and information would be greatly appreciated.

[Nelson Delaney]

If you have your mind set on Loomis, check out the green water rods. It’s a “salt water” rod but there’s heavy/moderate spinning rods In the line up 

[jimmyjoe]

3 hours ago, ACGOG said:

It seems at a glance that using a lure that's almost double the highest recommended weight would qualify for all of the bad things to happen; would that be an accurate statement?

 

   Yes, that's an accurate statement.

 

3 hours ago, ACGOG said:

there don't seem to be any spinning rods that can handle a 1oz lure

 

   Dobyns has two or three spinning rods that are rated 705, or H/F. They throw up to, I believe, one-and-a-quarter oz. You might investigate them if you're dead-set on spinning gear.

 

3 hours ago, ACGOG said:

. Is there another rod out there that will give me the sensitivity and the feel of my GLX and NRX?

 

   I can understand that you want a cranking rod with the "feel" and sensitivity of your high-end rods. Sensitivity is addictive. The thing is, you really don't need sensitivity in a moving-bait rod. You may benefit from some decent amount of sensitivity at certain times, like running squarebills through trees or among rocks. But even then, any normal graphite rod will show you as much sensitivity as you need. For big squarebills (Strike King KVD Magnum 4.0) I use fiberglass, and I have no problems.

   Then again, I'm accustomed to fiberglass.

 

   I hope you find what you need, and I wish you good luck!     jj

[roadwarrior]

You messed up, bite the bullet and sell the lures in our Flea Market. Don't buy new gear for lures

you did not intend to buy in the first place.

 

[Spankey]

I would get some cb’s in the size and weight you intended. Sell them hold on to the whatever but if you downsize there are plenty of options available. I do a lot of crankbait fishing but a lot lighter. 3/4 oz. I probably top out at. Low end 1/4 oz. I cover this with a few rods. Good luck in your search, good fishing. 

[Fishes in trees]

I have a small set of extra large square bills, not of the Megabass brand, but the Academy Sports house brand which are for the most part the same weight.  I throw mine on a 7' MH bait casting rod with 20 lb mono.

 

If I was determined to throw those baits on spinning gear - I think that gear is readily available.  I have a 7' Fenwick MH/extra fast tip spinning rod - rated to 3/4 oz I think that I wouldn't have any reservations about throwing a crank weighing an ounce with.   Be mindful that the rod is only half the problem.  You're going to need a decent reel.  I'd use any larger size spinning reel that could handle at least 20 or maybe 30 lb braid

 

 

Another option - years ago Cabelas marketed a series of "predator" rods, for European style fishing.   One of those was an 11' Medium action spinning rod, rated for baits up to 2 or 3 ounces.  It will accept either bait casting or spinning reels.  Take my Diawa 2600 Black Gold reel, fill it with braid and you could throw an ounce 100 yards or so.   I got distances of up too 150 yards throwing ounce and a half slab spoons.   I was using 12 lb mono at the time because I didn't know any better.  I have an Ambassador 6500 and filled with 20 lb mono I could get 100 yards once I got the reel dialed in.

 

So there are a couple of different options.  Good luck.

[ACGOG]

10 hours ago, Nelson Delaney said:

If you have your mind set on Loomis, check out the green water rods. It’s a “salt water” rod but there’s heavy/moderate spinning rods In the line up 

Thanks, I'll look into it!

 

1 hour ago, roadwarrior said:

You messed up, bite the bullet and sell the lures in our Flea Market. Don't buy new gear for lures

you did not intend to buy in the first place.

 

Appreciate the advice. All of the rods I have currently though are some iteration of one another. My thought process was that it wouldn't be a bad idea to buy a rod that can throw higher weight lures effectively to expand my toolset. Having a higher range will enable me to be more dynamic or flexible... or something ?.

 

12 minutes ago, Fishes in trees said:

I have a small set of extra large square bills, not of the Megabass brand, but the Academy Sports house brand which are for the most part the same weight.  I throw mine on a 7' MH bait casting rod with 20 lb mono.

 

If I was determined to throw those baits on spinning gear - I think that gear is readily available.  I have a 7' Fenwick MH/extra fast tip spinning rod - rated to 3/4 oz I think that I wouldn't have any reservations about throwing a crank weighing an ounce with.   Be mindful that the rod is only half the problem.  You're going to need a decent reel.  I'd use any larger size spinning reel that could handle at least 20 or maybe 30 lb braid

 

 

Another option - years ago Cabelas marketed a series of "predator" rods, for European style fishing.   One of those was an 11' Medium action spinning rod, rated for baits up to 2 or 3 ounces.  It will accept either bait casting or spinning reels.  Take my Diawa 2600 Black Gold reel, fill it with braid and you could throw an ounce 100 yards or so.   I got distances of up too 150 yards throwing ounce and a half slab spoons.   I was using 12 lb mono at the time because I didn't know any better.  I have an Ambassador 6500 and filled with 20 lb mono I could get 100 yards once I got the reel dialed in.

 

So there are a couple of different options.  Good luck.

Okay so another person above made a suggestion if I'm "dead-set on spinning gear." I'm starting to think that these lures aren't typically thrown on them? I use nothing but spinning gear. The reel I was planning on using was a Diawa Certate LT; is that not going to work?

[Fishes in trees]

It is true, in fresh water, one ounce crank baits aren't generally thrown on spinning gear.  Doesn't mean that it can't be done, just to say that most guys don't.   In fact, my tongue was kinda in my cheek when I suggested the 11' Predator distance casting rig as an option.

 

You aren't going to find many rods, in any companies fresh water rod line up that will do what you want.  The place to look for a spinning rod that will do what you want is different companies inshore rods.  That is where I'd look.  You're in Texas - Academy sports is based in Texas - All Star rods are exclusively distributed by Academy Sports.   That is where I'd look first.

[ACGOG]

6 minutes ago, Fishes in trees said:

It is true, in fresh water, one ounce crank baits aren't generally thrown on spinning gear.  Doesn't mean that it can't be done, just to say that most guys don't.   In fact, my tongue was kinda in my cheek when I suggested the 11' Predator distance casting rig as an option.

 

You aren't going to find many rods, in any companies fresh water rod line up that will do what you want.  The place to look for a spinning rod that will do what you want is different companies inshore rods.  That is where I'd look.  You're in Texas - Academy sports is based in Texas - All Star rods are exclusively distributed by Academy Sports.   That is where I'd look first.

Yeah, I thought as much, or that it was a typo, but I'm also asking for advice and if that's what you use I'm in no position to judge.

 

After someone above recommended it, I do see a few Loomis spinning rods for inshore saltwater that can throw up to 1oz so might look into that further. However definitely going to check out Academy.

[FishTank]

The closest you are going to get in a spinning rod is probably the St. Croix Legend Glass that goes up to 3/4 of an ounce.   I have not used it but held it in hand at a show last year.  It is pretty stoat and it might be able to handle that size of lure.  But as others have stated, you would be better served going with a casting set up.  I would suggest again a St. Croix Legend Glass 7'4'' MH and a Shimano Curado with Sunline Defier 15lb.  This combo will get the job done, be fun to fish, and would be close to the cost of a GLX rod alone.

 

On a side note, I would say that a GLX level of sensitivity is not really needed with crankbaits.  I have owned one of the old GLX crankbait rods.  It was a great rod but too sensitive for crankbaits and I ended up selling it.  I know it sounds weird but it can be a disadvantage, at least for me it was.  I found I was setting the hook too soon and missing fish.  I currently own four crankbait rods.... A G. Loomis IMX Pro, a St. Croix Legend Glass, a Shimano Curado and a Quantum KVD Launcher rod.   The each have their uses. The IMX pro is pretty much perfect for all my small cranks, the Legend Glass is my do all, the Curado for deep cranks and the Quantum does my heavy stuff. 

[Jaderose]

I bet I could spool a spinning reel with a 1 oz lure...lol.

[WRB]

To me spinning reels and crankbaits are like mixing oil and water they don't go together.

If you use braid to help managed the line twist then a mod/fast action rod using treble hook lures with enough power to properly load up the rod to cast a long distance you going to lose more bass then you land.

Spinning reels are also high IPT recovering 30"-35" of line per handle turn, way too fast for deep diving lures.

You can easily have a top quality crank bait rod custom biult using high end rod black ideally suited for your application, not sure a spinning reel is the answer.

Tom

[jimmyjoe]

8 hours ago, ACGOG said:

Okay so another person above made a suggestion if I'm "dead-set on spinning gear." I'm starting to think that these lures aren't typically thrown on them? I use nothing but spinning gear. The reel I was planning on using was a Diawa Certate LT; is that not going to work?

 

   As far as "going to work", yes, the spinning reels will work .... as long as you use the correct size. The stress on a spinning reel is when the spool is at full forward position. The main shaft is at a mechanical disadvantage, and the only way to  compensate is make the shaft bigger and beefier. IOW, a bigger reel.

   IF I were to use the Certate reels, I'd probably gamble on the 4000 size.

   So you can use a spinning setup. You have to find the right size reel, the right strength reel, then the right power rod, and put it all together. Not too big, and not too small.

   And then you still have the problem, and @WRB said, of rod action. The only rods for spinning that I know of that have the requisite softer action for cranks are walleye rods. That can be a whole 'nother world in itself!

   4) Spinning gear holds the lure on the cast with the fisherman's trigger finger. Heavier lures put more pressure on the finger. That can (and does) get uncomfortable. It's not like the thumb pressure on casting gear. You might not mind that, or you might not like that at all.

 

   Maybe @roadwarrior and @spanky gave you the best advice. After all, if you go ahead with this, you'll get your "higher range to be more dynamic and flexible", but it's going to cost you in new gear, new experiments for new problems and lots of money. Are you sure you want to go ahead with this?

 

   Just sayin'.       jj

[ACGOG]

2 hours ago, WRB said:

To me spinning reels and crankbaits are like mixing oil and water they don't go together.

If you use braid to help managed the line twist then a mod/fast action rod using treble hook lures with enough power to properly load up the rod to cast a long distance you going to lose more bass then you land.

Spinning reels are also high IPT recovering 30"-35" of line per handle turn, way too fast for deep diving lures.

You can easily have a top quality crank bait rod custom biult using high end rod black ideally suited for your application, not sure a spinning reel is the answer.

Tom

Is it all about the gear ratio for spinning? I can't believe I'm about to ask this but could you please elaborate or point me somewhere for more info?

To me the argument about casters vs spinners has always boiled down to preference. I've seen all the debates, about power, castability, etc. but that at the end of the day whatever you like is what you should use. This has been the first time I've come across an application that appears to be heavily favored towards one over the other.

I've never had any luck with casters or braid for that matter, and I don't mean just not being able to catch anything. I mean like I touch a caster and it immediately blows up every time I do so I've sworn them off.

 

Also, I'm not super familiar with custom rods either. Any tips on where to start there as well? 

31 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

 Maybe @roadwarrior and @spanky gave you the best advice. After all, if you go ahead with this, you'll get your "higher range to be more dynamic and flexible", but it's going to cost you in new gear, new experiments for new problems and lots of money. Are you sure you want to go ahead with this?

I mean, I am and I don't mind if it's worth the investment (went from a Stradic CI4+ to the Certate LT to my Stella FJ). I have to learn this at some point and like I mentioned in my other post it seems like this might finally be a point in my fishing... uh... "career" where I need to be more open minded to other gear. This is my primary hobby and if I can get better at it and enjoy it more with the right tools then so be it.

The more I can learn, the better I'll be, and being armed with information is always a good thing! 

[jimmyjoe]

19 minutes ago, ACGOG said:

I mean like I touch a caster and it immediately blows up every time I do so I've sworn them off.

 

   Yeah. So what? Everyone has to learn. You should have seen me 60 years ago, learning to rollerskate. I spent far more time on my butt than I did upright. But I persevered. I learned.

   You can learn, too. The new baitcasters are FAR better and easier to manage than the old green Heddon I learned on. And there are plenty of people here who are willing to help you. They might tease the heck out of you, but they'll still help you to the bitter end.

   If you go that route, you'll be in the catbird seat for any and all heavier techniques. Not only that, but I suspect that a casting setup for heavier lures will be MUCH more comfortable and efficient than a spinning setup for heavier lures.

 

   Like my older sister said when it came time to teach me to swim, "C'mon in! The water's fine!"  ???    jj

[ACGOG]

1 minute ago, jimmyjoe said:

 

   Yeah. So what? Everyone has to learn. You should have seen me 60 years ago, learning to rollerskate. I spent far more time on my butt than I did upright. But I persevered. I learned.

   You can learn, too. The new baitcasters are FAR better and easier to manage than the old green Heddon I learned on. And there are plenty of people here who are willing to help you. They might tease the heck out of you, but they'll still help you to the bitter end.

   If you go that route, you'll be in the catbird seat for any and all heavier techniques. Not only that, but I suspect that a casting setup for heavier lures will be MUCH more comfortable and efficient than a spinning setup for heavier lures.

 

   Like my older sister said when it came time to teach me to swim, "C'mon in! The water's fine!"  ???    jj

100,000%. I totally agree with you and it seems I might be at that point as there doesn't seem to be a really great answer to my original question.

 

I'm ready to go to school ?‍?!

[WRB]

Anglers confuse gear ratio with inches of line retrieved per 1 rotation of the reel handle or IPT.

Example a baiting reel used for bass fishing usually has a spool diameter about 1.25 to 1.50 and narrow width about equal to the diameter. Line capacity somewhere between 100 to 140 yards of 12 test mono for size 100 and 200 reels. The reel having 6.3:1 gear ratio the IPT with full spool of line about 26". If the gear ratio if 7.2:1 the IPT increases to 30" for example. 

Compare a spinning reel size 2500 with a gear ratio of 6:1 the IPT is 35". You moving the lure nearl 3' with each handle crank! The ideal IPT for crank baits is between 22"-24" any faster it's like riding a bicycle uphill in high gear, you struggle.

Tom

[roadwarrior]

21 minutes ago, WRB said:

Anglers confuse gear ratio with inches of line retrieved per 1 rotation of the reel handle or IPT.

Example a baiting reel used for bass fishing usually has a spool diameter about 1.25 to 1.50 and narrow width about equal to the diameter. Line capacity somewhere between 100 to 140 yards of 12 test mono for size 100 and 200 reels. The reel having 6.3:1 gear ratio the IPT with full spool of line about 26". If the gear ratio if 7.2:1 the IPT increases to 30" for example. 

Compare a spinning reel size 2500 with a gear ratio of 6:1 the IPT is 35". You moving the lure nearl 3' with each handle crank! The ideal IPT for crank baits is between 22"-24" any faster it's like riding a bicycle uphill in high gear, you struggle.

Tom

It's not just a matter of preference, there are fundamental differences in capabilities

and performance. If you are going to fish crankbaits, and especially deep divers, a

baitcaster has significant advantages.

[jimmyjoe]

2 hours ago, ACGOG said:

I'm ready to go to school ?‍?!

 

   OK. Now, everyone here is gonna pile on with conflicting advice, most of it from people who are already comfortable with casting gear.  If you follow all of them, you'll go ten different directions at once, and you'll get so frustrated that you'll give up. You've already given up once.

   You don't learn to drive by learning how to start a car, put it in gear and step on the footfeed, then head straight for the interstate. You'll get killed. Neither do you jump into baitcasting with the same attitude. You have to learn in a controlled manner, so that you see every advance and every problem BEFORE it gets away from you.

 

   1) Get an inexpensive baitcaster. I didn't say "cheap", I  said inexpensive. The critical attribute of this reel is that it can be shut down so far that you cannot - and I emphasize CANNOT - backlash it. Of course, the weight on your line may not go further than five feet, but that's totally beside the point. It'll go further and further as time goes on. You'll see.

   2) Get an inexpensive rod. Because you've already been talking about cranks, get a moderate action rod, rated to at least one ounce.

   3) Get a lead weight and tie it on your line. You should probably get one about the same weight as the lure you want to use, but close is OK, too. The line should be minimum 12 lb. test, and I suggest Berkely Trilene Big Game, just because it's good line and cheap. Remember, you're learning here. You're not going out on that Interstate alone yet.

   4) Here's where it gets dicey. Fishermen who are comfortable with casting reels use their thumb to feather or control the spool speed during a cast. That's something they've learned, and you will learn it, too. But you're going to learn it s-l-o-w-l-y. Like you said, you've given up once on baitcasters. I don't think you want to go down that road again, with all that frustration.

   When you use spinning gear, you FLING the lure out, with absolutely no control on line tension. When the lure stops, the line stops. No untoward consequences at all. That's because your spool doesn't move.

   Casting reels are the total opposite. Total. When you release your thumb to cast, the spool rotates. It can reach un-heard-of speed, and do so in the blink of an eye. If it's not controlled some way, the acceleration will cause an immediate backlash. (I think you've experienced that!) so something has to act against the acceleration, to moderate it as such. And for us old farts, that was the thumb. You would ride the spool right from the beginning of the cast, kinda gently but not too gently, and voila' .... no backlash. And you can still do it this way, but you shouldn't have to. It's frustrating. Not that you never use your thumb; you do, but not the same way as the old reels. Not to the same degree.

   So there are two other ways to calm down the spool when you cast.

   4a) centrifugal. This uses tiny weights symmetrical around the axis of the spool, and when that extreme acceleration starts, they rotate out and rub against a ring or post, slowing and controlling the spool.

   4b) magnetic. This uses magnets and inductors to create an effect that retards the acceleration.

   Both can work. In fact, both can work really, really well. WHICH ONE YOU CHOOSE IS IMMATERIAL. You'll get used to it, so no problem.

 

   5) Set your cast control to maximum, put your spool tension up high, and "fling" the weight on your line outward, keeping your thumb kinda in touch with the spool. The reason I say for you to keep your thumb somewhat in contact with the spool is that you need to learn how it feels, and what to expect. Always press down with your thumb when the weight reaches the end of the cast, stopping the spool yourself rather than letting the control do it. This will be important as you get better and better.

   Most probably, your weight will go only a few feet. That's fine. No problem.

   Wind the weight back in, and ever so gently, little micro-steps at a time, back off on the cast control. Leave the spool tension knob where it is FOR NOW. Remember ... this is just a learning process.

   As you back off the cast control more and more, you'll notice that you're starting to get "fluff". Fluff is the term for line that is jumping off the spool during a cast. It's a sign that in about one-billionth of a second more, you'll have a backlash. So tighten up your cast control juuuuuuust a wee bit, and you should be OK.

   Now....... how far did you cast the weight just before the "fluff" showed up? It should have been a decent distance, like maybe 50 feet, maybe more.

   At this point, go back to the maximum setting on the cast control, and turn your attention to the spool tension knob. The only way you're going to find out how these two controls interact with each other is by actually using them. Books don't help much. Videos can help a lot, if you watch very carefully. The video library accessed at the top of the  page has lots of information, for everything from the flat beginning to more advanced uses. You need to watch those videos!

   As you get better with this process, you'll have more questions. Come on back with your questions; we'll be here.   ????   

 

   GOOD LUCK!         jj

  

[A-Jay]

28 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

 

   OK. Now, everyone here is gonna pile on with conflicting advice, most of it from people who are already comfortable with casting gear.  If you follow all of them, you'll go ten different directions at once, and you'll get so frustrated that you'll give up. You've already given up once.

   You don't learn to drive by learning how to start a car, put it in gear and step on the footfeed, then head straight for the interstate. You'll get killed. Neither do you jump into baitcasting with the same attitude. You have to learn in a controlled manner, so that you see every advance and every problem BEFORE it gets away from you.

 

   1) Get an inexpensive baitcaster. I didn't say "cheap", I  said inexpensive. The critical attribute of this reel is that it can be shut down so far that you cannot - and I emphasize CANNOT - backlash it. Of course, the weight on your line may not go further than five feet, but that's totally beside the point. It'll go further and further as time goes on. You'll see.

   2) Get an inexpensive rod. Because you've already been talking about cranks, get a moderate action rod, rated to at least one ounce.

   3) Get a lead weight and tie it on your line. You should probably get one about the same weight as the lure you want to use, but close is OK, too. The line should be minimum 12 lb. test, and I suggest Berkely Trilene Big Game, just because it's good line and cheap. Remember, you're learning here. You're not going out on that Interstate alone yet.

   4) Here's where it gets dicey. Fishermen who are comfortable with casting reels use their thumb to feather or control the spool speed during a cast. That's something they've learned, and you will learn it, too. But you're going to learn it s-l-o-w-l-y. Like you said, you've given up once on baitcasters. I don't think you want to go down that road again, with all that frustration.

   When you use spinning gear, you FLING the lure out, with absolutely no control on line tension. When the lure stops, the line stops. No untoward consequences at all. That's because your spool doesn't move.

   Casting reels are the total opposite. Total. When you release your thumb to cast, the spool rotates. It can reach un-heard-of speed, and do so in the blink of an eye. If it's not controlled some way, the acceleration will cause an immediate backlash. (I think you've experienced that!) so something has to act against the acceleration, to moderate it as such. And for us old farts, that was the thumb. You would ride the spool right from the beginning of the cast, kinda gently but not too gently, and voila' .... no backlash. And you can still do it this way, but you shouldn't have to. It's frustrating. Not that you never use your thumb; you do, but not the same way as the old reels. Not to the same degree.

   So there are two other ways to calm down the spool when you cast.

   4a) centrifugal. This uses tiny weights symmetrical around the axis of the spool, and when that extreme acceleration starts, they rotate out and rub against a ring or post, slowing and controlling the spool.

   4b) magnetic. This uses magnets and inductors to create an effect that retards the acceleration.

   Both can work. In fact, both can work really, really well. WHICH ONE YOU CHOOSE IS IMMATERIAL. You'll get used to it, so no problem.

 

   5) Set you cast control to maximum, put your spool tension up high, and "fling" the weight on your line outward, keeping your thumb kinda in touch with the spool. The reason I say for you to keep your thumb somewhat in contact with the spool is that you need to learn how it feels, and what to expect. Always press down with your thumb when the weight reaches the end of the cast, stopping the spool yourself rather than letting the control do it. This will be important as you get better and better.

   Most probably, your weight will go only a few feet. That's fine. No problem.

   Wind the weight back in, and ever so gently, little micro-steps at a time, back off on the cast control. Leave the spool tension knob where it is FOR NOW. Remember ... this is just a learning process.

   As you back off the cast control more and more, you'll notice that you're starting to get "fluff". Fluff is the term for line that is jumping off the spool during a cast. It's a sign that in about one-billionth of a second more, you'll have a backlash. So tighten up your cast control juuuuuuust a wee bit, and you should be OK.

   Now....... how far did you cast the weight just before the "fluff" showed up? It should have been a decent distance, like maybe 50 feet, maybe more.

   At this point, go back to the maximum setting on the cast control, and turn your attention to the spool tension knob. The only way you're going to find out how these two controls interact with each other is by actually using them. Books don't help much. Videos can help a lot, if you watch very carefully. The video library accessed at the top of the  page has lots of information, for everything from the flat beginning to more advanced uses. You need to watch those videos!

   As you get better with this process, you'll have more questions. Come on back with your questions; we'll be here.   ????   

 

   GOOD LUCK!         jj

  

Nicely Done ~

A-Jay 

[ACGOG]

48 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

 

   OK. Now, everyone here is gonna pile on with conflicting advice, most of it from people who are already comfortable with casting gear.  If you follow all of them, you'll go ten different directions at once, and you'll get so frustrated that you'll give up. You've already given up once.

   You don't learn to drive by learning how to start a car, put it in gear and step on the footfeed, then head straight for the interstate. You'll get killed. Neither do you jump into baitcasting with the same attitude. You have to learn in a controlled manner, so that you see every advance and every problem BEFORE it gets away from you.

 

   1) Get an inexpensive baitcaster. I didn't say "cheap", I  said inexpensive. The critical attribute of this reel is that it can be shut down so far that you cannot - and I emphasize CANNOT - backlash it. Of course, the weight on your line may not go further than five feet, but that's totally beside the point. It'll go further and further as time goes on. You'll see.

   2) Get an inexpensive rod. Because you've already been talking about cranks, get a moderate action rod, rated to at least one ounce.

   3) Get a lead weight and tie it on your line. You should probably get one about the same weight as the lure you want to use, but close is OK, too. The line should be minimum 12 lb. test, and I suggest Berkely Trilene Big Game, just because it's good line and cheap. Remember, you're learning here. You're not going out on that Interstate alone yet.

   4) Here's where it gets dicey. Fishermen who are comfortable with casting reels use their thumb to feather or control the spool speed during a cast. That's something they've learned, and you will learn it, too. But you're going to learn it s-l-o-w-l-y. Like you said, you've given up once on baitcasters. I don't think you want to go down that road again, with all that frustration.

   When you use spinning gear, you FLING the lure out, with absolutely no control on line tension. When the lure stops, the line stops. No untoward consequences at all. That's because your spool doesn't move.

   Casting reels are the total opposite. Total. When you release your thumb to cast, the spool rotates. It can reach un-heard-of speed, and do so in the blink of an eye. If it's not controlled some way, the acceleration will cause an immediate backlash. (I think you've experienced that!) so something has to act against the acceleration, to moderate it as such. And for us old farts, that was the thumb. You would ride the spool right from the beginning of the cast, kinda gently but not too gently, and voila' .... no backlash. And you can still do it this way, but you shouldn't have to. It's frustrating. Not that you never use your thumb; you do, but not the same way as the old reels. Not to the same degree.

   So there are two other ways to calm down the spool when you cast.

   4a) centrifugal. This uses tiny weights symmetrical around the axis of the spool, and when that extreme acceleration starts, they rotate out and rub against a ring or post, slowing and controlling the spool.

   4b) magnetic. This uses magnets and inductors to create an effect that retards the acceleration.

   Both can work. In fact, both can work really, really well. WHICH ONE YOU CHOOSE IS IMMATERIAL. You'll get used to it, so no problem.

 

   5) Set you cast control to maximum, put your spool tension up high, and "fling" the weight on your line outward, keeping your thumb kinda in touch with the spool. The reason I say for you to keep your thumb somewhat in contact with the spool is that you need to learn how it feels, and what to expect. Always press down with your thumb when the weight reaches the end of the cast, stopping the spool yourself rather than letting the control do it. This will be important as you get better and better.

   Most probably, your weight will go only a few feet. That's fine. No problem.

   Wind the weight back in, and ever so gently, little micro-steps at a time, back off on the cast control. Leave the spool tension knob where it is FOR NOW. Remember ... this is just a learning process.

   As you back off the cast control more and more, you'll notice that you're starting to get "fluff". Fluff is the term for line that is jumping off the spool during a cast. It's a sign that in about one-billionth of a second more, you'll have a backlash. So tighten up your cast control juuuuuuust a wee bit, and you should be OK.

   Now....... how far did you cast the weight just before the "fluff" showed up? It should have been a decent distance, like maybe 50 feet, maybe more.

   At this point, go back to the maximum setting on the cast control, and turn your attention to the spool tension knob. The only way you're going to find out how these two controls interact with each other is by actually using them. Books don't help much. Videos can help a lot, if you watch very carefully. The video library accessed at the top of the  page has lots of information, for everything from the flat beginning to more advanced uses. You need to watch those videos!

   As you get better with this process, you'll have more questions. Come on back with your questions; we'll be here.   ????   

 

   GOOD LUCK!         jj

  

Dude, thanks for taking the time to write all of this out. This is great information!

 

Out of curiosity, if I wanted to come out the gate swinging, would I have an easier time learning? What I mean by that is I've heard the Daiwa Steez brought up repeatedly as one of the best casting reels you can get. Does something like that present an advantage when it comes to preventing backlash or any of the other problems associated with casting reels? I've heard the Curado DC is great about that too.

[jimmyjoe]

   I can't really tell you about the digitally-controlled reels. But I will tell you that 3 weeks ago I met a man who was learning to use a casting setup. He had only been learning for 2 weeks at that time, and he wasn't doing bad at all. He had a magnetic reel by Pflueger. I think this is it:

 

   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pflueger-Monarch-CHLP/163908959577?hash=item2629bc3d59:g:VH8AAOSwEGVdqFMD

  

   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pflueger-Monarch-Baitcaster-Bass-Fishing/164398358830?hash=item2646e7e12e:g:iJwAAOSw5eBfa8Sb

  

   Yes, that's a low-priced reel. But what impressed me was the control it had over the cast. He wanted some tips, so he let me use it for a few casts. I got it to cast a fair distance, and cast reliably. If it only lasts three months, so what? In that time you have learned to use a casting reel, and you're out very little money. By that time you'll know enough to step up to the better tier of reels. And if it lasts longer, so much the better.

 

   Hope this helps.         jj

 

P.S. - Sometimes people say that some reel is a "great casting reel" because it has less control over the cast, not more. Some fishermen are real artists (pun intended) and achieve their results by their own physical control. That's not the kind of reel you want right now.

[MN Fisher]

11 minutes ago, jimmyjoe said:

   I can't really tell you about the digitally-controlled reels. But I will tell you that 3 weeks ago I met a man who was learning to use a casting setup. He had only been learning for 2 weeks at that time, and he wasn't doing bad at all. He had a magnetic reel by Pflueger. I think this is it:

 

   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pflueger-Monarch-CHLP/163908959577?hash=item2629bc3d59:g:VH8AAOSwEGVdqFMD

  

   https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pflueger-Monarch-Baitcaster-Bass-Fishing/164398358830?hash=item2646e7e12e:g:iJwAAOSw5eBfa8Sb

  

   Yes, that's a low-priced reel. But what impressed me was the control it had over the cast. He wanted some tips, so he let me use it for a few casts. I got it to cast a fair distance, and cast reliably. If it only lasts three months, so what? In that time you have learned to use a casting reel, and you're out very little money. By that time you'll know enough to step up to the better tier of reels. And if it lasts longer, so much the better.

 

   Hope this helps.         jj

 

P.S. - Sometimes people say that some reel is a "great casting reel" because it has less control over the cast, not more. Some fishermen are real artists (pun intended) and achieve their results by their own physical control. That's not the kind of reel you want right now.

I'd put the Monarch as a step below the Trion - but for a budget angler, it's a good starting point.

 

Monarch combo in 7'0" MH/F is available at Dick's for $70.

https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/pflueger-monarch-low-profile-combo/16pflupflmnrchlp7com

[Fishes in trees]

I remember reading about a crank bait designer - I first came across his name (Tom Seward) in the old Fishing Facts magazine and later in the earlier 80's In-fisherman magazines.   He designed the Brush Baby and later the Timber Tiger.  He recommended using spinning gear for throwing cranks - basically for distance purposes.  He was throwing crank baits into bushes & trees.  He didn't share the opinion that bait casters were more accurate, basically saying that with an equal amount of practice you could be just as accurate with spinning gear.

 

I tried it for a while early in my co-angler tournament fishing.  I purchased a rod similar to what he used ( a 7' Medium rod ( on the MH side of Medium ).  I liked the distance I could get.  I liked that I reduced back lashes when I threw into the wind or cross wind.  Accuracy to the extent that he described as possible never really happened for me, but I wasn't all that accurate with bait casting gear either at the time.

 

He was using a fairly large spinning reel and 10 lb mono.  This was a time when braid wasn't readily available.

So all this really proves is that throwing cranks with spinning gear is doable.  Besides I don't know anyone who can throw size 5 or size 7 Balsa Shad Raps on bait casting gear.   I'm sure there are some guys who do, but I don't know them.

[jimmyjoe]

36 minutes ago, Fishes in trees said:

 He recommended using spinning gear for throwing cranks - basically for distance purposes.  He was throwing crank baits into bushes & trees.  He didn't share the opinion that bait casters were more accurate, basically saying that with an equal amount of practice you could be just as accurate with spinning gear.

 

   I agree with that 100%. But the OP was inquiring about throwing 1 oz. lures, something probably done better on casting gear and with line heavier than 10 lb. test mono.

   I think manufacturers today are marketing spinning rods that are, in the main, quite a bit different from 30 years ago.   jj