New crank rod

[Mbirdsley]

Looking for a new crank rod this/winter.  Giving up the ghost on the skeet Reese crank rod. I can’t keep fish on the dang thing even with good sharp hooks and flouro.  If I use my elcheapo 6ft6 black max medium rod they stay pinned all day. I’m looking for somthing with a faster tip that I can use mono with ( so the exact opposite of that skeet Reese crank rod) . I’m betting what ever I get I’ll have to order on line so first hand accounts would be nice . I could spend anywhere from $100-$200 bucks.  If I get a rod at the lower end I’ll stick with my 5:4:1 phluegar reel if it’s towards the $200 mark I’d probably get a new reel with a little faster ratio.  I wouldn’t be looking to throw anything bigger than 6xd’s on it.  Most of my cranking is 3-12 feet. 
 

 Are all of the glass rods whippy and slow action? 
 

how is the dobyns FR 705CB rod? 

 

or any other suggestions. 

[Bluebasser86]

All glass rods aren't created equal. I had one of the yellow/black Skeet Reese W&M cranking rods. It was a dead stick. I'm not the greatest crankbait fisherman, but I couldn't feel anything with that rod. A fish would have to really crush the bait for me to know anything was there and then the tip was so soft that I had the same issue with keeping fish pinned. A slower, softer rod is what you want for cranks to keep them pinned, but that rod is ridiculous.

 

I have no experience with the Dobyn's rod. I've got a Quantum KVD cranking rod and a St. Croix Legend Glass and they're both good rods. I really like the St. Croix, it handles the baits I like to fish perfectly and has good the right amount of flex to keep them pinned but enough backbone to handle a big fish without feeling overmatched.

[Mbirdsley]

34 minutes ago, Bluebasser86 said:

All glass rods aren't created equal. I had one of the yellow/black Skeet Reese W&M cranking rods. It was a dead stick. I'm not the greatest crankbait fisherman, but I couldn't feel anything with that rod. A fish would have to really crush the bait for me to know anything was there and then the tip was so soft that I had the same issue with keeping fish pinned. A slower, softer rod is what you want for cranks to keep them pinned, but that rod is ridiculous.

 

I have no experience with the Dobyn's rod. I've got a Quantum KVD cranking rod and a St. Croix Legend Glass and they're both good rods. I really like the St. Croix, it handles the baits I like to fish perfectly and has good the right amount of flex to keep them pinned but enough backbone to handle a big fish without feeling overmatched.

Yeah I dont know.  Mine is the all yellow one And your right at some points in the retrieve I can’t even feel the crank.  Last year I did not really have an issue with the rod landing fish. .  However, this year it has cost me a lot of nice small mouth all year. They hit and I can’t get enough power to get a good hook set.

 

 I think something along of the lines of an ugly stick( but, better)  type action would work good.  I know that st.croix  has the bass mojo crank rods in stock around me most of the time.  

is that skeet Reese rod considered a glass rod or graphite? 

[Bluebasser86]

5 minutes ago, Mbirdsley said:

Yeah I dont know.  Mine is the all yellow one And your right at some points in the retrieve I can’t even feel the crank.  Last year I did not really have an issue with the rod landing fish.  However, this year it has cost me a lot of nice small mouth all year.  I think something along of the lines of an ugly stick( but, better)  type action would work good.  I know they have the bass mojo crank rods in stock around me. 
 

is that skeet Reese rod considered a glass rod or graphite? 

I think it was a glass rod.

 

I've actually had good success cranking with a 7' MH Berkley Lightning Rod Shock. I use them for my kayak rods, bank, and johnboat trips and it does surprisingly well for shallow to mid depth baits.

[kayaking_kev]

Dobyns Champion XP 705 Glass isn't whippy or slow and good for 3-12 ft. divers, but it's also not 100% glass. It can be had for under $200 during the Black Friday sale or any 20% Dobyns sale. The Dobyns 704 Glass IS whippy & slow though.

 

I never tried the Fury 705cb, but the Colt 705cb is made with 15% glass.

 

I use the Dobyns 704 Glass for light cranks and a Tatula Regular action rod for medium divers. I wouldn't say the Tatula Regular action is whippy or too slow and I use the Medium, but it's also not glass.

[Mbirdsley]

I don’t need a glass I’m just trying to figure out what a glass rod is.  If the skeet Reese rod isn’t glass than I’ve never actually handled a glass rod.  
 

I’m going to look around maybe even if I found a 7ft medium bait caster.  Mediums depending on the rod seem to be a little slower in the tip than MH fast rods. I may have to take a trip up to Jay’s or stop on my way up north.  Jays carries a lot of rods.  My only other option for bass stuff is cabelas in Saginaw and BPS in suborn hills.  Jays and BPS are about an 1-1.5 hrs away 
 

 

I’ve caught a lot of fish throwing cranks using that black max combo.  Only issue with that cheap set up is the reel bogs down once you get into 5 and 6 xd size cranks.  

 
 

 

 

[Bluebasser86]

Try a MH with a glass rod. I've had regular M/M glass rods and they're really soft rods. All of them I've liked have been MH rods.

[roadwarrior]

Lamiglas SR705R is my favorite for deep cranking.

 

[Mbirdsley]

19 minutes ago, Bluebasser86 said:

Try a MH with a glass rod. I've had regular M/M glass rods and they're really soft rods. All of them I've liked have been MH rods.

Do you use mono with your glass rods or flouro/co-polymer ?

[Bluebasser86]

2 minutes ago, Mbirdsley said:

Do you use mono with your glass rods or flouro/co-polymer ?

Both, Big Game and PLine CXX. I never use fluorocarbon for cranking.

[Mbirdsley]

15 minutes ago, Bluebasser86 said:

Both, Big Game and PLine CXX. I never use fluorocarbon for cranking.

I want to go back to big game for cranking. I was afraid to do it with the current rod considering how whippy it was .  With a new one I can. My catch rate has went up exponentially since switching over my to other moving bait rods back to mono 

[ChrisD46]

2 hours ago, Bluebasser86 said:

I think it was a glass rod.

 

I've actually had good success cranking with a 7' MH Berkley Lightning Rod Shock. I use them for my kayak rods, bank, and johnboat trips and it does surprisingly well for shallow to mid depth baits.

+1 (the old Lightening Shock 7' MH rod - not the new one...) I also use the old Lightening Shock  in the 6'6" M with braid and it is great with smaller 1/4 oz. crank baits .

[Mbirdsley]

38 minutes ago, ChrisD46 said:

+1 (the old Lightening Shock 7' MH rod - not the new one...) I also use the old Lightening Shock  in the 6'6" M with braid and it is great with smaller 1/4 oz. crank baits .

I have a lightening shock rod.  Brown with split cork handles.  I like it it’s a good extra rod 

[Hook2Jaw]

I'm really enjoying my Tatula XT 7' MM, not the glass model, for working lipless on the bottom as well as shallow to medium cranks.  It doesn't have enough backbone to clear algae muck off the hooks, but I haven't found a rod that does.  I haven't had the opportunity to rip grass with it.  I would definitely recommend it for ⅜-⅝ billed crankbaits.  It's pretty well moderate fast and I suspect it would fish very well with monofilament.  The stick runs 99.99, but better deals can be found on various websites as well as ebay.

 

With that in mind in addition to the finances you have available, I would also take a look at the Tatula Bass 7' MR.  I believe stepping up a level would give you more sensitivity with the amount of weight shaved off and the better components.  150 bones nets that rod, with better deals available much like the Tatula XT.

 

Filling out your two hundred dollar budget are the Daiwa Tatula Elite 7'2" MHR Howell and 7'4" MHR Howell.  I have no experience with those models whatsoever, however, my 6'9" Tatula Elite Skipping Jig is a hell of a stick that does what it's supposed to do.  I imagine the two Tatula Elites suggested will cast their full rated range as well as have that sweet, sweet Daiwa moderate fast action they're well known for.

 

Outside the Daiwa line, my 13 Fishing Omen Black 2 7'9" Crank has a moderate fast action and it is a pleasure to fish as well.  I would also take a look at the Omen Black 3 line that has recently replaced it.

 

Good luck!  I wish I had a few bones to invest in a new stick for ripping my lipless through the grass.  Buying a new rod is always a wonderful experience for me.

[MidwestBassAttack]

Fury 705cb has great reviews. In fact, I ordered one yesterday and it’s to be delivered Thursday. I can add to this after I use it this weekend.
 

 

[Mbirdsley]

16 hours ago, Hook2Jaw said:

I'm really enjoying my Tatula XT 7' MM, not the glass model, for working lipless on the bottom as well as shallow to medium cranks.  It doesn't have enough backbone to clear algae muck off the hooks, but I haven't found a rod that does.  I haven't had the opportunity to rip grass with it.  I would definitely recommend it for ⅜-⅝ billed crankbaits.  It's pretty well moderate fast and I suspect it would fish very well with monofilament.  The stick runs 99.99, but better deals can be found on various websites as well as ebay.

 

With that in mind in addition to the finances you have available, I would also take a look at the Tatula Bass 7' MR.  I believe stepping up a level would give you more sensitivity with the amount of weight shaved off and the better components.  150 bones nets that rod, with better deals available much like the Tatula XT.

 

Filling out your two hundred dollar budget are the Daiwa Tatula Elite 7'2" MHR Howell and 7'4" MHR Howell.  I have no experience with those models whatsoever, however, my 6'9" Tatula Elite Skipping Jig is a hell of a stick that does what it's supposed to do.  I imagine the two Tatula Elites suggested will cast their full rated range as well as have that sweet, sweet Daiwa moderate fast action they're well known for.

 

Outside the Daiwa line, my 13 Fishing Omen Black 2 7'9" Crank has a moderate fast action and it is a pleasure to fish as well.  I would also take a look at the Omen Black 3 line that has recently replaced it.

 

Good luck!  I wish I had a few bones to invest in a new stick for ripping my lipless through the grass.  Buying a new rod is always a wonderful experience for me.

I’ve never used lipless cranks yet so that shouldn’t be a problem. Probably should I have a couple 

16 hours ago, MidwestBassAttack said:

Fury 705cb has great reviews. In fact, I ordered one yesterday and it’s to be delivered Thursday. I can add to this after I use it this weekend.
 

 

Yeah if you would reply back after you get the rod. If you get some time it would be appreciated. 

the fury is what I wish my M/l 7 ft colt was 

 

[Columbia Craw]

You essentially have three (3) options to find the power and action you are seeking for a crank bait rod.

 Blank taper and wall thickness will dictate the action. 

Materials will also dictate the blank action and sensitivity.

 

All graphite with a moderate action design seem to be the most popular.  Increased sensitivity but the rod will react much quicker. Quicker reflex.

 

All Glass (E glass) will be much more moderate but through proper design will possess ample power in the lower 60% of the blank.  The trade off is most designs for all glass are larger tube diameter and add some additional weight.  A well designed glass rod has a signature feel and action and some anglers like that slower blank reaction. 

 

A blended blank or composite blank marries the best of both features.  The lower 60 to 66% of the blank is graphite of some grade while the tip section is a transition to glass of some grade. This is an attempt to reduce blank mass and weight, improve sensitivity and generate the more moderate action and slower rebound properties.

 

As RW mentioned, the Lamiglas SR 705R is a model that is all E Glass and is very effective through proper design. I also have this model and a Cousins 735 Glass.

 

The Dobyns rods and Daiwa "Glass" rods are actually composite models and both have achieved the goals of blending the two blank materials. Quantum deserves mention here as well. 

 

Dobyns also has is all graphite Crank Bait series.  The actions are moderate through design but the blanks react or rebound quicker that their composite brothers.  Sensitivity is much better.

 

So you have to decide what action, power and level of reaction/reflex you want and then seek out the configuration that fills that need. You also have to be aware that crankbait rods are less prone to being broad in their lure weight ranges. That's just the way it is so expecting a Dobyns Fury 705 CB to throw a 6XD is not realistic.  You also need to consider that the model not only has to cast a weight range but work the resistance level of the bait.  

 

Crankbait rods are like fly rods.  The size of the fly dictates the weight of line to move and present it and then the rod has to manage the line to present the fly.  Enough for my morning tutorial.

 

CC

 

[Crankin4Bass]

On 9/30/2020 at 2:24 AM, Bluebasser86 said:

All glass rods aren't created equal. I had one of the yellow/black Skeet Reese W&M cranking rods. It was a dead stick. I'm not the greatest crankbait fisherman, but I couldn't feel anything with that rod. A fish would have to really crush the bait for me to know anything was there and then the tip was so soft that I had the same issue with keeping fish pinned. A slower, softer rod is what you want for cranks to keep them pinned, but that rod is ridiculous.

 

I have no experience with the Dobyn's rod. I've got a Quantum KVD cranking rod and a St. Croix Legend Glass and they're both good rods. I really like the St. Croix, it handles the baits I like to fish perfectly and has good the right amount of flex to keep them pinned but enough backbone to handle a big fish without feeling overmatched.

How is the weight of the St Croix Rod compared to the yellow/black Skeet Reese?

[Bluebasser86]

1 hour ago, Crankin4Bass said:

How is the weight of the St Croix Rod compared to the yellow/black Skeet Reese?

The rod I have now is a couple inches shorter than the Skeet Reese rod I had. It's the 6' 10" MH and they've got it listed at just over 5 ounces. So it's not a super light rod but glass rods usually aren't. 

[Bass Rutten]

The fury is an amazing value and very well balanced, it does have cheap guides and reel seat though I’ve yet to have an issue with them going on a full year of use. I didn’t like the rod with mono/copoly but when I put braid on it turned into a whole different beast with just the right power/flex ratio for spinnerbaits, chatterbaits and swim jigs too (light to med hooks), while still great for squarebills and jerks.

[new2BC4bass]

I'm going to give you some possibilities to research this winter.    Have read good things about most of them.  In no particular order:

 

ALX Ikos Hustler

Ark Tharp B-Hittay & Invorker Pro & Crankbait

Falcon Expert & BuCoo

Kistler Argon

Okuma Guide Select & Helios SX & TCS

iRod Genesis II Gabe's Rip Rap Special

Hammer

 

I have rods from all the above, but not those models with the exception of Gabe's Rip Rap Special and the B-Hittay.  Managed to get out with Gabe's RRS one time early this year.  Think I am going to like it a lot.  Also one time with the B-Hittay.  Was surprised by the large diameter of the blank.  One reviewer said it was his favorite of the several he tried in the Tharp series...and he admitted to being primarily a jig fisherman.

 

Hammer and Falcon rods have a pretty good parabolic bend.  I have used their standard models to fish crankbaits with.  Matter of fact a 7' MF Cara was my dedicated crankbait rod (and still set up for crankbaits) until I bought a couple actual "crankbait" rods.

 

Lew's makes several models.  The TP-1 Black has been highly praised for it price.  I have a Custom Pro Speed Stick Ledge/Small Crankbait still unused.  Shame as it seems like a pretty nice stick.

 

Daiwa makes quite a few.  Besides the glass models, I think quite a few of the Regular action rods would work.  I have a couple OG Tatula Regular, but haven't used them a lot and not with crankbaits.  I will say I really like them and feel they are great rods for the money.

[Mbirdsley]

On 10/1/2020 at 11:16 PM, Crankin4Bass said:

How is the weight of the St Croix Rod compared to the yellow/black Skeet Reese?

I can’t remember honestly it’s been too long. I do remember it is quite a bit thicker even in the medium version 

On 10/1/2020 at 12:49 PM, Columbia Craw said:

You essentially have three (3) options to find the power and action you are seeking for a crank bait rod.

 Blank taper and wall thickness will dictate the action. 

Materials will also dictate the blank action and sensitivity.

 

All graphite with a moderate action design seem to be the most popular.  Increased sensitivity but the rod will react much quicker. Quicker reflex.

 

All Glass (E glass) will be much more moderate but through proper design will possess ample power in the lower 60% of the blank.  The trade off is most designs for all glass are larger tube diameter and add some additional weight.  A well designed glass rod has a signature feel and action and some anglers like that slower blank reaction. 

 

A blended blank or composite blank marries the best of both features.  The lower 60 to 66% of the blank is graphite of some grade while the tip section is a transition to glass of some grade. This is an attempt to reduce blank mass and weight, improve sensitivity and generate the more moderate action and slower rebound properties.

 

As RW mentioned, the Lamiglas SR 705R is a model that is all E Glass and is very effective through proper design. I also have this model and a Cousins 735 Glass.

 

The Dobyns rods and Daiwa "Glass" rods are actually composite models and both have achieved the goals of blending the two blank materials. Quantum deserves mention here as well. 

 

Dobyns also has is all graphite Crank Bait series.  The actions are moderate through design but the blanks react or rebound quicker that their composite brothers.  Sensitivity is much better.

 

So you have to decide what action, power and level of reaction/reflex you want and then seek out the configuration that fills that need. You also have to be aware that crankbait rods are less prone to being broad in their lure weight ranges. That's just the way it is so expecting a Dobyns Fury 705 CB to throw a 6XD is not realistic.  You also need to consider that the model not only has to cast a weight range but work the resistance level of the bait.  

 

Crankbait rods are like fly rods.  The size of the fly dictates the weight of line to move and present it and then the rod has to manage the line to present the fly.  Enough for my morning tutorial.

 

CC

 

This is good info thanks 

3 hours ago, new2BC4bass said:

I'm going to give you some possibilities to research this winter.    Have read good things about most of them.  In no particular order:

 

ALX Ikos Hustler

Ark Tharp B-Hittay & Invorker Pro & Crankbait

Falcon Expert & BuCoo

Kistler Argon

Okuma Guide Select & Helios SX & TCS

iRod Genesis II Gabe's Rip Rap Special

Hammer

 

I have rods from all the above, but not those models with the exception of Gabe's Rip Rap Special and the B-Hittay.  Managed to get out with Gabe's RRS one time early this year.  Think I am going to like it a lot.  Also one time with the B-Hittay.  Was surprised by the large diameter of the blank.  One reviewer said it was his favorite of the several he tried in the Tharp series...and he admitted to being primarily a jig fisherman.

 

Hammer and Falcon rods have a pretty good parabolic bend.  I have used their standard models to fish crankbaits with.  Matter of fact a 7' MF Cara was my dedicated crankbait rod (and still set up for crankbaits) until I bought a couple actual "crankbait" rods.

 

Lew's makes several models.  The TP-1 Black has been highly praised for it price.  I have a Custom Pro Speed Stick Ledge/Small Crankbait still unused.  Shame as it seems like a pretty nice stick.

 

Daiwa makes quite a few.  Besides the glass models, I think quite a few of the Regular action rods would work.  I have a couple OG Tatula Regular, but haven't used them a lot and not with crankbaits.  I will say I really like them and feel they are great rods for the money.

I’ll research these too.  
 

 

This is my 3rd year having bait casters.  Last year I wasn’t able to bomb the lures out there so the fish would hit closer to the boat and I’d have power to set the hook.  This year I’m able to bomb a crank way out there which, is where the fish are hitting and I can’t get the power to set the hook 

[GReb]

I bought a cheap glass rod once and hated it. I primarily use a kistler KLX graphite crank rod and it’s phenomenal. Also use a falcon trap caster and Dobyns champion 683 as secondary rods.  I don’t throw deep cranks though. Mark menendez is a great crank fisherman and uses mostly a falcon Lowrider Mansfield. It’s $120 and maybe worth checking out. As far as glass goes a lot of people love the composit Dobyns and Shimano lines. 

[Boomstick]

On 9/30/2020 at 2:24 AM, Bluebasser86 said:

All glass rods aren't created equal.

No they are not. Given that it's glass and they're less sensitive by nature, you would think there would be a flatter curve among glass rods but that couldn't be further from the truth.

 

I am really impressed by the Daiwa Tatula glass rods that I have. They are surprisingly sensitive for glass to the point it's easy to forget they're glass.

[Mbirdsley]

I just ordered this in the crank version a Okuma EVX Crankbait Rod.  https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-OKUMARDS.html?from=basres
In a 7ft medium from TW. should be here when I get back from deer hunting next week.  Ill have to get a MH for my deeper cranks down the road.  My 6ft6 m black max rod can handle dt15’ and xd6’s no problem. I wouldn’t got much bigger though.  I’m excited for it. Hopefully get to use it before everything ices up.