help w/ 93' johnson 150 hp faststrike???

[soccplayer07]

Hello all. I finally took my new/used ranger out tonight. I had a horrible time getting her going. She cranks and turns over. She will idle ok. The minute I start giving her gas she dies. This continued for about 30-45 mins. Finally got her going. Ran her for about 30 mins. She feels very jumpy. Give her gas and no response... 7-10 seconds later she jumps. We shut her down and tried to start her again and the same thing happened again. Very difficult to get her going. Before buying the boat I had a mechanic come and check everything. Compressions checked out. fluids looked good. She started up (w/ muffs) and ran well. So what gives??? I changed the spark plugs (as directed). I think it could be the fuel line, throttle, or vro. Any of those fit the symptoms??? I think fuel line b/c "ball pump" never stays hard. Please give me ideas. I am very frustrated being that this a first bass boat for me.

[Way2slow]

Sounds very typical of dirty carbs on these motors.  Around here the going dealer price to rebuild them is $450.

I would also check the timing advance. Make sure the timer base is coming all the way to the stop.  I've seen cases where the wiring harness would cause it to stick.

Also look in the carbs and make sure the butterflys are opening fully.  I've seen the throttle arm sticking so they would not open for several seconds or not at all.

[Sfritr]

Sounds very typical of dirty carbs on these motors.  Around here the going dealer price to rebuild them is $450.

Way2slow

For anybody out there with a similar issue is there a better way to keep the carbs clean on these motors?

[CFFF 1.5]

Your problem is exactly the problem I was having with my boat before I got the carbs cleaned. After I got the carbs cleaned everything runs and starts perfect now.

[soccplayer07]

another forum suggested the throttle roller arm adjustment. Any thoughts?

[cart7t]

I would avoid adjusting anything until you've determined that the throttle linkage (and choke plates) are operating cleanly and not binding.

As already stated, it does sound like gummed up carbs.  Not unusual if that boat sat for any length of time.  

When you get it going I'd suggest adding a can of Seafoam to each tank full of gas.  Helps decarb the motor and is a fuel stabilizer as well.  

[soccplayer07]

yea, i think its carbs too. it sat for over a year. I spoke to mechanic today. He said the cleaning kits cost $17 a piece (x6) and labor charge of $75 (x2 hours). Good deal???

[burleytog]

Cleaning kits or rebuild kits?

[soccplayer07]

thought he said cleaning kits

[Way2slow]

The kits are rebuild kits, no such thing as a cleaning kit. If he only charges you for two hours, plus the kits, that's a good deal but it's very hard to do the whole job in two hours. There are also some other gaskets needed that are not in the kits. Make sure that also include link and sync, that's ajusting and syncronizing all linkages and the carbs, a somewhat time consumming job.

The cam roller is a two part roller, a softer out shell over a harder inner.  It's common for the outer shell to come apart and fall off, this does throw the syncronization and should be checked.

[soccplayer07]

I found another place that will clean the carbs. He estimated 4 hours at $85 an hour. So around $340 total. Sound good??? I thought about doing it myself but I really don't feel comfortable.

[fishfordollars]

You will be money ahead to get the job done buy a reputable mechanic. Don't let just anyone tell you what the motor needs and don't let just anyone work on it. That 200.00 job might end up costing four times that. To rebuild the carbs should run 400.00-450.00. There is no such thing as a cleaning kit. Stay away from anyone that steers you that way. Make friends with a good mechanic and it will save you tons of money down the road.

Remember a carb job should include the following:

Tear down

Parts cleaning

Rebuild kits(3)

Reassembly

Linkage adjustment

Idle adjustment

High Speed adjustments(Spark advance, etc.)

Test run(Either on the lake or in a tank)

That 400-450 includes many things that will improve the running of your motor or ruin it. If you lean it out you will understand.

[Way2slow]

Just cleaning is going to depend on the condition of the parts in the carbs, gaskets etc. I've pulled a many one off, taken them apart, cleaned and reassembled and bought nothing but the throttle body to intake gasket.

This is one time I would let a dealer with a good reputation do them. The carbs on your motor have some problems that the average Joe may not know about. First off, they are plastic, the bowls warp and the bodies get out of shape also. They should be reshaped when rebuilding them. Some just sand the bowls flat but that takes the little flange on top of it off. I prefer to use a heat gun, heat them just enough to soften them so I can work them back in shape, same with the bodies. There is a small emulsion tube for the mid orifice and it's very critical to get it clean and back in at the proper depth, some don't even know to take it out. Syncronizing the the butterflies is necessary after putting them back on the motor, many don't do this or know how. Link and Sync is another critical step of the setup.

No dealer is going to quote just pulling them off and cleaning because if the rubber bowl gaskets and the side plate gasket have hardened they are going to be unusable and he's not going to eat six carb kits at almost $20 each, plus the gaskets that bolt them to the intakes and a $15 - $20 worth of carb cleaner, aint gonna happen. That's why they charge approx $450 to clean/rebuild them.

I've had a couple of friends try the cheap route with theirs and it not run any better when done, then have their mechanic start trying to say it's the power packs and all sorts of things. Feeling sorry for them, I pulled their carbs back off, did them the right way and motors ran great. Which is a pisser because I don't normally work on other peoples stuff anymore.