Proper Curado DC setings

[Dashipa]

Hi Guys...I am new to the forum and have enjoyed reading the posts here.  I am hoping yall can help me out with the Curado DC.  I have been learning how to use a baitcaster rod/reel and I think i have a pretty good understanding of the mechanics. I have an Abu Garcia Revo X that I can pretty much cast without backlash 90 % of the time with 15lb mono - with minimal to no thumb.  However the DC is giving me some trouble and I want to know if i am reading the directions correctly or not.  

 

My gear: GLoomis E6X 6-6 M/H Fast, 15 lb mono (Berkley Big Game), Curado DC

 

If I am reading correctly the provided instructions say to adjust the cast control knob until side to side play is eliminated. However it also says that if the cast control knob is tightened more than necessary the DC system will not "demonstrate its original performance". 

 

Sooooo.........

After watching some you tube videos and reading several posts it seems there several ways to setup the DC system:

 

Method 1

1. Eliminate side to side play only (just barely tighten)

2. Start with the 4 on the brakes and cast - enjoy backlash free casting with limited distance

3. Progress to numbers 3, 2, and 1 as you get better with thumb to increase distance

4. You are now a DC expert and can cast a country mile

 

Method 2

1. Eliminate side to side play (tighten 1/8 to 1/2 turn more)

2. Start with the 4 on the brakes and cast - enjoy backlash free casting with limited distance

3. Progress to numbers 3, 2, and 1 as you get better with thumb to increase distance

4. You are now a DC expert and can cast a country mile

 

Method 3

1. Tighten cast control knob for weight of lure - the old tighten the knob method until the lure is just barely falling to the ground

2. Use numbers 4, 3, 2, and 1 as conditions require - ie use 4 in wind,  2 and 3 for calmer conditions, 1 for max distance.

3. You are now a DC expert and can cast a country mile

 

I have tried method 3 and the reel seems to work much better and i can spend time more time fishing and not hassling with backlashes...but is the DC braking system working properly?.  I have tried methods 1 and 2 and get mixed results - some casts are great but the majority of them blowup in my reel. 

 

What confuses me is that the method works for me seems to be the opposite of what Shimano recommends in the instruction manual - over tightening the control knob. Which I am obviously doing when tightening for lure weight in method 3. I think that this is what confuses alot of people who start using the DC system. Tighten for lure weight or just eliminate the side to side play only? Its frustrating because Shimano has not explained it very well at all.

 

Interestingly, there are folks on you tube that are casting the DC like 150 to 200 feet with no thumb at all on setting 2.  There is one guy who cast the DC in hard wind like 130 feet----no thumb on setting 2! If i try methods 1 or 2 above with no thumb the reel just blows up on me.  If i try for the no thumb approach i have to use method 3  - still working on getting 130 feet cast in calm conditions ---LOL.

 

So what is the trick for proper setup on the DC?  - I would love to know how folks are getting killer casts with no thumb and eliminate these $#%^ backlashes.

 

Thanks,

Mike 

 

 

 

[Reel]

The people on You Tube that are doing that probably use a more progressive rod than yours and also have practiced their extra long cast using the proper casting technique.  It's the same thing with a fly rod.  If you use the right smooth mouvements you get longer casts.  Method 1 and 2 are OK if you are using a standard weight compact lure: a 3/8 once jig.  #3 is better if that is not the case.  The cast control knob is there to be used.  Use it according to the conditions.  Nothing is set for a whole day.  I've been using DC reels for 20 years and it get even better with time especially in though conditions.

[Dashipa]

Thanks for the reply.  When you mention "more progressive rod"...what exactly is that?  Still a newbie when it comes to casting rod terminology. 

 

 

[jbsoonerfan]

Your line has a lot to do with it as well.

[Dashipa]

I am glad you brought line issue up.  What is the ideal line to be using in your opinion? 

 

...I should have said line "weight".  Is braid going to the best way to go on this reel.  I like mono best for most applications. 

[Tywithay]

I've owned several DC reels and every one worked better with the spool tension set for a slow fall, set for each lure individually. Daiwa reels work best with eliminating, or even just a slight amount, of side to side play. I've never found it to work best with any Shimano system, especially DC. The newer systems are set up for specific lines, so #2 would be for mono/braid. After that, I'd say make sure you're putting a forceful cast into motion, and not trying to lob it. DC systems need spool speed to work properly, so you have to get it moving. Probably why they've been notoriously bad at pitching in the past.

[Reel]

A ''progressive'' rod would be one that you would use for crankbaits or even spinnerbaits.  And like Tywithay, I don't use DC reels for pitching.

[A-Jay]

4 hours ago, Dashipa said:

Hi Guys...I am new to the forum and have enjoyed reading the posts here.  I am hoping yall can help me out with the Curado DC.  I have been learning how to use a baitcaster rod/reel and I think i have a pretty good understanding of the mechanics. I have an Abu Garcia Revo X that I can pretty much cast without backlash 90 % of the time with 15lb mono - with minimal to no thumb.  However the DC is giving me some trouble and I want to know if i am reading the directions correctly or not.  

 

My gear: GLoomis E6X 6-6 M/H Fast, 15 lb mono (Berkley Big Game), Curado DC

 

If I am reading correctly the provided instructions say to adjust the cast control knob until side to side play is eliminated. However it also says that if the cast control knob is tightened more than necessary the DC system will not "demonstrate its original performance". 

 

Sooooo.........

After watching some you tube videos and reading several posts it seems there several ways to setup the DC system:

 

Method 1

1. Eliminate side to side play only (just barely tighten)

2. Start with the 4 on the brakes and cast - enjoy backlash free casting with limited distance

3. Progress to numbers 3, 2, and 1 as you get better with thumb to increase distance

4. You are now a DC expert and can cast a country mile

 

Method 2

1. Eliminate side to side play (tighten 1/8 to 1/2 turn more)

2. Start with the 4 on the brakes and cast - enjoy backlash free casting with limited distance

3. Progress to numbers 3, 2, and 1 as you get better with thumb to increase distance

4. You are now a DC expert and can cast a country mile

 

Method 3

1. Tighten cast control knob for weight of lure - the old tighten the knob method until the lure is just barely falling to the ground

2. Use numbers 4, 3, 2, and 1 as conditions require - ie use 4 in wind,  2 and 3 for calmer conditions, 1 for max distance.

3. You are now a DC expert and can cast a country mile

 

I have tried method 3 and the reel seems to work much better and i can spend time more time fishing and not hassling with backlashes...but is the DC braking system working properly?.  I have tried methods 1 and 2 and get mixed results - some casts are great but the majority of them blowup in my reel. 

 

What confuses me is that the method works for me seems to be the opposite of what Shimano recommends in the instruction manual - over tightening the control knob. Which I am obviously doing when tightening for lure weight in method 3. I think that this is what confuses alot of people who start using the DC system. Tighten for lure weight or just eliminate the side to side play only? Its frustrating because Shimano has not explained it very well at all.

 

Interestingly, there are folks on you tube that are casting the DC like 150 to 200 feet with no thumb at all on setting 2.  There is one guy who cast the DC in hard wind like 130 feet----no thumb on setting 2! If i try methods 1 or 2 above with no thumb the reel just blows up on me.  If i try for the no thumb approach i have to use method 3  - still working on getting 130 feet cast in calm conditions ---LOL.

 

So what is the trick for proper setup on the DC?  - I would love to know how folks are getting killer casts with no thumb and eliminate these $#%^ backlashes.

 

Thanks,

Mike 

 

 

 

Hi Mike ~ 

There is a very simple one word answer that will, over the course of time, totally resolve most ALL of the challenges associated with learning how to use a bait casting rod & reel.

Practice. 

There is no time table linked to it and there's no replacement for it.

There's no short cut or magic setting. 

You can read about how to do it, you can watch videos about how to do it, until your eyes fall out.

But you still have to get out there and practice casting.

We've all done it.

Very few bassheads pick up a casting reel and cast it out 200 feet first time out.

In fact, in the beginning (and even later on), accuracy will trump distance all day, everyday & twice on Sunday.

Just go cast your new set up, you'll get the hang of it.

Good Luck

A-Jay

[Tennessee Boy]

I think @A-Jay said it well.  

 

I think Method 1 on your list is the right answer.  Just realize that step 3 might take a long time.  Take the time to learn to cast correctly.  Learn to use your thumb, it's the greatest breaking system ever invented.

 

 

[Dashipa]

A-Jay

You are right on about practice ? - I practice so much that my wife has threatened to hide my rods and my neighbors think i am crazy...LOL! But seriously I am aiming to get my technique down solid and get accuracy and distance to be more consistent.  I am trying to get the DC dialed in. Problem is there are varied opinions on how to properly use the DC.  I want to make sure i am using it correctly and getting the most out of it.  The hardest part about learning baitcasting gear was putting down the spinning gear! Now i am only taking out baitcasting gear and I have been catching some nice bass! No more spinning gear withdrawal symptoms - lol

 

Tennessee Boy

I have a "dumb thumb" i think - but like A-Jay said practice is key and you're right ...Method 1 (i think) is the correct method not only for DC but for correct baitcasting technique overall.  

[A-Jay]

1 hour ago, Dashipa said:

A-Jay

You are right on about practice ? - I practice so much that my wife has threatened to hide my rods and my neighbors think i am crazy...LOL! But seriously I am aiming to get my technique down solid and get accuracy and distance to be more consistent.  I am trying to get the DC dialed in. Problem is there are varied opinions on how to properly use the DC.  I want to make sure i am using it correctly and getting the most out of it.  The hardest part about learning baitcasting gear was putting down the spinning gear! Now i am only taking out baitcasting gear and I have been catching some nice bass! No more spinning gear withdrawal symptoms - lol

 

Tennessee Boy

I have a "dumb thumb" i think - but like A-Jay said practice is key and you're right ...Method 1 (i think) is the correct method not only for DC but for correct baitcasting technique overall.  

After several decades of successful casting revolving spool tackle, a couple of years ago I picked up my first and only DC reel.  Just had to see what all the fuss was about.  Got a SHIMANO 17 Scorpion DC 100 HG

I will tell you that after a couple of seasons of use - while the DC aspect works well, IMO it is NOT a magic bullet that totally prevents back lashes and makes super long casts.

When compared to any of my other quality standard reels, it casts the same; just makes a funny noise.

I tell you this so that you might understand that a casting reel is a casting reel; DC or not.

 And to get super max distance, it still requires the same somewhat refined casting technique that comes from experience.  

However, like any decent casting reel, if the user, turns 'up' the reels brakes appropriately (regardless of type),

uses decent technique and allows the reel's brakes to work correctly, along with perhaps just the smallest of user input, effective casts can be made & fewer over runs may be experienced.  Might not break any casting distance records but you can most certainly present baits effectively and in a manner that will allow you to catch bass;

from shore or a boat.

Hope that helps.

Below is a clip of casting with a Moderate rod looks like - this one happen to be a composite stick with a non DC round reel. .

A-Jay

 

 

 

[cheezyridr]

9 hours ago, Reel said:

The people on You Tube that are doing that probably use a more progressive rod than yours and also have practiced their extra long cast using the proper casting technique.  It's the same thing with a fly rod.  If you use the right smooth mouvements you get longer casts.  Method 1 and 2 are OK if you are using a standard weight compact lure: a 3/8 once jig.  #3 is better if that is not the case.  The cast control knob is there to be used.  Use it according to the conditions.  Nothing is set for a whole day.  I've been using DC reels for 20 years and it get even better with time especially in though conditions.

i think this is one of those "ymmv"  topics.  i have a curado dc on a curado med hvy/mod action rod with 12 lb p-line flouro.   i set mine with the no side play, on 2  1/2 and i never change it, no matter what i'm throwing.  i bank fish, so  lots of times i throw the long bomb, but not always.  as  a-jay said below, accuracy is more important almost all of the time. i very rarely backlash. i think for me, it has alot to do with the fact that i learned on the old garcia 5000, which had no mag brakes or any of the fancy  stuff.  thumb control and watching the lure fly is key. but like i said, ymmv

5 hours ago, A-Jay said:

Hi Mike ~ 

 

In fact, in the beginning (and even later on), accuracy will trump distance all day, everyday & twice on Sunday.

Just go cast your new set up, you'll get the hang of it.

Good Luck

A-Jay

this, forever and ever, amen

[Fishes in trees]

I hae two the Curado DC reels and I think that they work great, for what I'm using them for.  First  Have no clue how they handle heavier line - haven't tried any yet.   I'm using 15 lb Yozuri.  Not a fan and never have been a fan of the line the original poster is using.  (15 lb Big Game - I've had unfortunate experiences with different weights of Big Game over the years and these days I wouldn't even use the stuff to hang pictures ).  The baits I'm throwing are half ounce baits - spinnerbaits - chatterbaits & square bills and other shallow diving cranks.  (Yeah, I know that the spinner baits probably overall weigh more than a half ounce & I'm ok with that and I haven't taken the time to weigh them yet.  The digital scale is all the way over on the other side of the fishing shed AND I'd have to put the battery in it)

 

I'm using the close out All Star 6'10" spinner bait rod that I got at Academy, ( the purple series ).  I've messed with the settings quite a bit, but right now I forget what they are and I've got them set so that they work for the more or less half ounce baits I'm throwing.

 

For comparison purposes, previously I was using Calcutta TEGT reels or an older Calais or a Curado D.   After probably 8 or 9 trips this year and another half a dozen or so sessions of practice outside the fishing shed, I like these DC reels alot and they help me get more distance than I previously got with similar effort.

 

Like I said, I don't remember right now what the settings are at, but now that I've got mine dialed in to half ounce baits I'm really happy with these reels alot.  When I first got the Curado DC reel, practicing outside the fishing shed, I back lashed it the 3rd or 4th cast - to the point where I cut out all the line and started over.  Guess what - I started over by READING THE DIRECTIONS.

 

Anyway - I'm probably going to get a couple more of these reels because I really like them for reaction baits.

[DanielG]

I've been casting my DC constantly for 2  yrs now. After I figured out how to set it I haven't had one backlash. I'm using 30 lb braid.

Shimano's directions, the shaking spool tightening (1 and 2 pretty much) don't work well. I've written them about this and they've responded.

Method three is the one... I've written about it here a few times. Put the brake on the number for the type of line. I use the 2 setting. Put the lure on and set the tension knob so that when you pull the trigger and shake it the lure drops a foot or two each time. Don't worry that it's not spinning enough for a long cast. The computer will let it loose for you when the time comes.

 

Cast into the wind. Cast into the wind and hit a wall as hard as you can. Cast and close  your eyes. Don't touch the spool with your thumb. You'd really have to work at it to get a nest. 

Sometimes I miss the trigger timing and my crankbait will smack hard on the water in front of me on a hard overhead cast. I've had a little fuzz but that's it.

I never use my thumb, unless I want to stop a cast short, ever. And after training myself to cast thumbless (not easy), I've forgotten about it.

[Dashipa]

DanielG

 

Yup ... Method 3 is what works for me with out backlashing.  I feel like Shimano should have updated the instructions by now if they confirmed to you that Method 3 is the proper way to use the DC.  Thanks for the confirmation ?

[Dashipa]

Quick Followup....just went outside to cast and the distance is really lacking with the spool tightened up that much.  Is my reel defective?

 

If i put it at 1 and back off the spool tension just slightly it launches. On 2 i had to keep backing off tension to increase distance...the only thing i had to do was thumb the spool before the lure hit the ground or else it would overrun slightly.

 

If this is the way the DC is supposed to work  - the DC works like conventional reels in that you can tune the spool knob to control spool speed....which is kinda cool.  Then the DC brakes adjust to the spool speed and apply the brakes automatically....duh. You will need to use your thumb though ?

[Derek1]

Method 3, is the natural progression for anyone Just starting out with any casting reel. Mine is on number 2 and cast control is much looser then that. The bait drops freely to the ground. Just like any other reel, take it out and play with it. You’ll work it out. The directions are a starting point. 

[suzuki2903]

Have two of these on m/h f rods and rarely backlash . Spool is set so the side to side play is just barely gone and I use 30pound braid so I leave it at the appropriate setting and works perfect. Now I do have to thumb is right before it hits the water like any other baitcaster .  

[DanielG]

Using the method I describe.... basically #3. My casts with a 2.5" crank bait is 100-125 ft. I know this because the docks on my lake are positioned very close to 50 ft apart. I stand on mine, cast along the shore and ti's two docks or sometimes 2+ docks distant. I don't know if that's far or not but it seems to be a satisfactory distance to me. If I cast into a strong wind it goes much less than that, but without my thumb the reel compensates and the spool stays clean.

 

I put a bullet weight on once, with no lure, and it went much, much further. I think the aerodynamics of it are what makes that happen.