New to Kayak Angling

[Brett's_daddy]

Okay, so I just bought my first kayak. Nothing fancy, a 10ft. Lifetime Tamarack Angler sit-on-top kayak. Not sure how I’ll like it so didn’t want to spend $1000+. My questions are this, what size rods should I bring (I’m thinking no longer than 7ft.), do I need an anchor? How do I set the hook without tipping over?

 

[Bankc]

Get used to the kayak first, without worrying about fishing.  Just get used to moving it around, loading and unloading, and practice falling out and getting back in while on the water.  Doing that will help establish your balance and get a feel for how to control the kayak with your balance.  Once you learn to balance, which usually doesn't take all that long, then you'll see that you set the hook like normal.  The only difference is you balance your body more with your core than with your legs, like in a bass boat, mainly because you're sitting down rather than standing up, and because your balance effects the movement of the boat more. 

 

You'll learn primary and secondary balance points.  The primary balance point is where the kayak is centered and your weight is centered over it.  Kayaks aren't very steady like this, so you have to really control your body to maintain this, especially if the kayak isn't moving.  The secondary balance points are were the kayak is leaning over to the side, yet your weight is still centered over it.  Kayaks are more stable when placed into the secondary balance points.  You're closer to tipping over, but you have more control and stability here.  Learn to transition between them.  Do all of this stuff, and practice getting back into the kayak, without gear before you attempt to fish from it.  

 

I'd recommend an anchor, though I rarely use one anymore.  I prefer to drift while I fish to cover more ground.  Though, sometimes you need an anchor to hold up in a location to work an area, or for other reasons.  The type of anchor you need will be determined by the type of water you fish.  Some anchor styles do better in mud, and some do better in sand, and others do better in rocks, some do better in shallows and some do better in deep water.  I also recommend an anchor trolley because where you tie your anchor is really important in a kayak.  Also, make sure it has a quick release or keep a sharp knife on you that's easy to access.  If a large boat passes by with a huge wake, or you get caught in high winds or strong currents, it can submerge your kayak and roll it if you're anchored in place.  So being able to quickly release your anchor is really important.

 

As for rod length, I don't think it matters much.  Shorter rods do have some advantages on kayaks.  But you can certainly use longer rods too.  The longer the rod, the more likely it is to get in the way, but if you have a system to keep it out of the way (like rod holders) then longer rods will still work fine.  Just use what you have now, and as you get used to it all, you'll figure out what your preferences are, and if you actually need shorter rods.  I prefer about a 7' rod in my kayak.  But then again, I prefer a 7' rod for just about every situation.  The kayak doesn't change that. 

[Dens228]

I'd get an anchor, I don't think you'll tip by setting the hook, and my SHORTEST rod s 7 foot even. 

[Bird]

I take the same rods as I did in the bass boat just not as many. 

Fishing kayaks by nature are very stable so tipping on hook set shouldn't be an issue unless you're a really big guy in an underrated kayak. 

[J Francho]

Bring whatever rods you use for whatever type of fishing you're going to do.  I would limit it to one or two in a small boat.  I always bring an anchor, but rarely use it when fishing.  It's more for sticking in a spot to tie up, clean up the hull, rerig, or take a break.  It's pretty much the same as setting the hook so you don't fall over.  I don't know anything about that boat or it's stability.  I'm almost always standing when I'm fishing.  Even if I'm sitting, it's the same hook set.  I think with some time in the seat, you'll answer your own questions.

[Brett's_daddy]

My boat has a 275lb. weight limit and I'm 6' tall and 255lbs. (yeah, I need to lose some serious paunch...lol).

[HookInMouth]

I like things simple. I take two rods, both 7'. A medium heavy baitcaster and a medium spinning rod. I guess I might add a third later but I can't see any more than that. Clutter stresses me out. I don't even take a crate with me anymore. I have a little walmart bad that carries 4 3600 boxes. No rod holders, I just la the rods in front of me. 

 

I've not anchored yet but to be honest, it's my biggest struggle. I just haven't convinced myself that I want to get into all of that yet. Might add a power pole or manual version at least. Until your comfortable I would avoid anchoring myself. I do a lot of holding position by coming upstream and beaching on exposed rocks (I'm a river guy mostly) or grass islands. Or I just get out and fish. 

 

I would make a trip or two without fishing and get used to the boat. Learn it's point of no return and what you are comfortable with. Then add the rods and you're off. 

 

I'll add that being mostly a small river guy I value accuracy over distance and that's why I'm not running longer rods. It really has nothing to do with being on a kayak. Larger water I would probably prefer longer rods. 

[Mike 126]

As the others have said start simple.  Don't bring every lure you own.  Scupper holes are notorious for eating lures so watch where you put the ones you don't have in your box or on the line.  I generally prefer rods 7' and under. They are easier to land fish and don't get hung up in tree limbs as much.

 

To be honest, I've never purposely rolled my kayak but I really should practice that.  For your first trip out just paddle around.  Practice backing up, breaking, sharp turns etc.  You'll be surprised how often good boat handling makes the day much less frustrating.

 

I would not start with an anchor.  I have one and it has never seen the water.  I did find a wind/drift sock useful on unprotected water.  It slows you down.  You'll need to read up on how to use them.

 

Once you go out to fish, I'd bring one rod to start with one Plano box with a few lures.  Just keep it simple and practice casting and boat handling.  Also, tether your paddle and rod.  Its very easy to lose one or both.  As you get more comfortable things will become second nature.

 

Since you are in VT, bring a crash kit (extra clothes and towel) and leave it in the car.   ALWAYS wear your PFD.  I use an inflatable in the summer but now that the weather is getting cooler I will go back to my regular PFD.

 

Have fun and enjoy the peace and quiet on the water!

[Brett's_daddy]

Thanks for all that have responded and to those who respond in the future. I can't wait to try it out. I definitely will try getting used to it first before actually fishing. I do intend on adding a gear track and one of those "Y" shaped paddle holders. I have already purchased the stadium seat upgrade for this particular model that everyone who has this boat said is a must addition. Me and the wife were looking for most of the summer but kayaks have been scarce to find (we finally found a small kids kayak for our son and he loves it) but now as the season winds down (at least way up North her in Vermont) our local Walmart got in a shipments they've been waiting on for the past 2 months. Mine was originally priced at $280 but it was missing a paddle (which they had removed to satisfy an unruly customer who ordered a boat that didn't come with one and was making a scene) so the manager said I could have it 50% off so I bought it for $140 and picked up a paddle at DSG for $40 so I ended up saving a hundred bucks . Now I just need to find a dry bag that will fit the 6" hatch.

[Bird]

2 hours ago, Brett's_daddy said:

My boat has a 275lb. weight limit and I'm 6' tall and 255lbs. (yeah, I need to lose some serious paunch...lol).

If it's something your going to stick with and enjoy just upgrade the kayak. 

Both of my fishing yaks have 475 lb limit so that means I can bring 300 lbs of tackle. Lol

[Tizi]

I recommend taking 2-3 rods and just a small amount of tackle.  As others have said an anchor with anchor trolly is going to be helpful.  I usually use whatever size rod for the techniques I’ll be using while kayak fishing.  My PDL allows me to stand quite easily to cast/pitch/flip if necessary.  You shouldn’t have any issues setting the hook in that yak.  I think you’re going to enjoy kayak fishing.  I started with a paddle kayak and loved it, and the new pedal yak is even that much better.  I almost prefer fishing out of my yak.

 

[Fishingmickey]

2 hours ago, Brett's_daddy said:

My boat has a 275lb. weight limit and I'm 6' tall and 255lbs. (yeah, I need to lose some serious paunch...lol).

Hi Brett,

     I'm really close to your size also. your really close to the suggested weight limit of the kayak. My first kayak was also a 10'er. I dumped it a couple of times. What you really have to be careful of is getting your weight to far outboard (like stretching to net a bass). once your get your weight far enough outside or off of center line the kayak will squirt out from underneath you like a soap dish. 

     Go out your first couple of times and practice capsize drills before the water temps drop too much. Get some rod floats and make sure anything you really like is in either a water proof dry bag or it will float. It is also good to tether them to the boat if your river fishing.  If your fishing when it is cold or the water is cold and your far from the car pack that spare set of clothes and maybe something to start a fire into a dry or waterproof bag and stow it in the hatch or bunged down. 

     Last but not least wear your life jacket w/whistle in pocket and file a float plan with your wife or with a friend if she is coming along.

Good luck,

Fishingmickey

 

[Manly Studson]

I have this kayak. I prefer short rods. You can set the hook hard without tipping over. An anchor or at least a tether will help you relax from time to time.

[kdubracing]

I’m about the same size as you and have this exact kayak. I don’t have any stability problems with it. We also have an Ascend 10t that has a 325 lb weight limit and it fills with water with me or my 200 lb son in it with nothing else. I take a crate on the back with 3 3600 boxes and 3 gallon ziplock bags full of soft plastics, a 1.5 lb anchor, a Garmin Striker 4 on this kayak and have no problems. It’s pretty stable. Initially I tried to pay attention setting the hook, but I haven’t almost tipped at all. I don’t even think about it anymore. Enjoy, you’ll have a blast.

[Smalls]

16 hours ago, Brett's_daddy said:

My boat has a 275lb. weight limit and I'm 6' tall and 255lbs. (yeah, I need to lose some serious paunch...lol).

It's suggested to load a kayak to 75% of its rating. You might feel stable while sitting/paddling, but lean over the side very much and you might go swimming. Wear your PFD, and leash anything that doesn't float. If you end up enjoying fishing from a kayak, I suggest upgrading.

[Brett's_daddy]

2 hours ago, Smalls said:

It's suggested to load a kayak to 75% of its rating. You might feel stable while sitting/paddling, but lean over the side very much and you might go swimming. Wear your PFD, and leash anything that doesn't float. If you end up enjoying fishing from a kayak, I suggest upgrading.

Upgrading will be done after I pass 2 stages...A.) I enjoy fishing from a kayak and/or just plain enjoy kayaking period and B.) I can afford to .

[CountryboyinDC]

From that boat, you can potentially have a lot of fun and learn a lot.  I think others have covered the concerns I would have - the boat's capacity and trying to keep your tackle selection simple.  For the anchor, it would depend on where I was fishing with that boat.  If it's in the river, probably best to leave the anchor at home until you're relatively comfortable fishing from it.  No need to submarine your close-to-capacity kayak in current somewhere cause you can't cut free from your anchor quickly enough.  On still water, the anchor might take away some (just some) frustration you face on windy days.  You don't need much anchor for a kayak - 3 lbs. is plenty.  Get a good PFD with that money you saved. 

[J Francho]

20 hours ago, Brett's_daddy said:

My boat has a 275lb. weight limit and I'm 6' tall and 255lbs. (yeah, I need to lose some serious paunch...lol).

20# of gear adds up quick.  Travel light, or you're going to have issues.  That isn't a big boy boat.

[Brett's_daddy]

1 hour ago, J Francho said:

20# of gear adds up quick.  Travel light, or you're going to have issues.  That isn't a big boy boat.

Yeah I know. A couple of 3740 Planos, couple gallon bags of plastics and 3 rods maximum plus anchor if I decide on that.

[Bird]

If you were from VA, you could take one of mine out for the day.

I often sit sideways with feet dangling in the water while fishing as various positions help with fatigue. 

 

Only reason I have 2 yaks to begin with is the wife often wants to go with me on pretty days so got one with a center motor pod and drag her kayak " lifetime " behind while I'm fishing, she's reading, fun actually. 

 

As you get older you'll appreciate the high seats in some of today's designated fishing kayaks. 

 

Enjoy your adventure and keep it safe. 

 

 

[Brett's_daddy]

39 minutes ago, Bird said:

As you get older you'll appreciate the high seats in some of today's designated fishing kayaks.

This was the first DIY mod I did for my kayak. After reading all of the mods for this particular boat almost unanimously they said to do a seat mod with a stadium seat I got from Costco for $20 and it has a weight rating of 300lbs. It fits perfect over the stock kayak seat with a bungee cord to hold it down. One guy said before he did this his back would be killing him within 30 minutes but now with this stadium seat mod he can fish for hours. 

43 minutes ago, Bird said:

As you get older you'll appreciate the high seats in some of today's designated fishing kayaks.

Already there...lol. I'm 47 and definitely don't bend or stretch as well as I used too .

[J Francho]

22 minutes ago, Brett's_daddy said:

I'm 47 and definitely don't bend or stretch as well as I used too .

Step it up!  This was from my 48th birthday:

[Talio]

So I just started "kayak" fishing after a few years of bank fishing. My boat isn't technically a kayak, but kinda like a weird cross between a sit on top and stand up paddle board.  That being said, I can teach you what I learned this season: 

 

-You need a rod long enough that from your seated position the tip goes over the bow without fouling in case the bass runs under the boat and I've found he often will.  More important than rod length, is reel speed.  My fastest spin setup is 5:3:1 and it's too slow for fishing from a boat under most wind conditions.  Generally, if I'm drifting towards my lure, I can't take up line fast enough.  If you're trying to hop a jig, you'll never feel the weight on the bottom to get a positive snap.

 

-At first, use finesse gear, something you can break off easy.  If you get snagged and can't break your line easily, you can get into trouble, especially in current.  You can open the reel to keep the rod from being jacked out of your hand if the current is moving swiftly, but then you're gonna have a mess of line to take up which normally twists all to hell after you get the lure out or break it off.  I don't use an anchor, but often wish I had one.  I prefer a drift anchor/wind sock, because my boat gets blown around really easily and I don't have a trolling motor.  Chuck the sock of the starboard side and the boat drifts in the wind just a bit offset so I can cast with my right hand to the port side.  I use the I-boating app with my phone hanging in a waterproof case around my neck to see how I'm positioned over bottom contour because I haven't invested in electronics yet.  I find it super enjoyable though to watch my boat on my phone drift over drop offs as I cast to it.  Very relaxing, easy going fishing and has been productive for me thus far.  Be aware that some boats don't like to anchor in current.  For inflatables and rotomolds, this probably isn't a big deal because you have air trapped that just doesn't want to go under because physics, but if all the stars line up right, it could pull down the gunwales down and swamp your boat.  The one time I used an anchor I just used an old 5lbs dumbbell on a rope.  It worked.

 

-For hook sets, the phrase that popped in my head while teaching myself is "Always know where your hook set will be."  What happens when working the bait, you end up with your rod way behind your head.  You want your rod tip to be in some position to give you room for the set.  So if you're hopping a jig with the rod in a high position, you're gonna have to reel down for the hook set.  Often, in between casts, I'll do a mock hook set just to get it in my muscle memory.  But remembering to always be asking yourself that question, "Where is my hook set?" That will keep you mentally focused on being prepared for a bite.  I found visualization of this to be key.  I just imagine myself setting the hook on a big fish while I'm day dreaming and generally I find an instinctive hook set works on the water after.  This will change depending on your presentation.  When I'm jerking something back, my rod tip is much lower to the water, so the hookset is different.  Just practice with each of them in your mind whenever you're day dreaming and you should be pretty well prepared to make the real world adjustments needed when you get on the water.  As far as falling off the boat during a hook set?  Probably not a problem if you've got that in mind, but it's gonna depend on your boat.

 

-Play fish with your rod parallel to the water.  I lost a couple of big ones early on to this. I was used to trout hook set from fly fishing or playing bass from an elevated position on the bank.  If you do this, and play the fish with the tip overhead, the big ones will get off on a jump.  You can't always get a sideways hook set from a kayak, but after your set, you can get your rod parallel to the water as quickly as possible which seems to keep fish on.

 

-Land fish by grabbing the line.  Trying to grab them while they're still in the water is a great way to go overboard.  Just get the fish close to the boat, grab the line and lift him in.  Then don't let go.  I've had to dive on more than one fish flopping on my deck, which is okay, cause I've got a big wide open deck.  Most fishing specific kayaks, including your's probably have pretty busy decks.

 

-Always be prepared to fall off the boat.  I've never done it, but I always have a game plan.  Is everything batten down, where are my rods, do they have floats, are all the lids on my bait trays and stuff positively closed?  (It pays to know what that final slap or click feels like on your storage and making a habit out of doing those small things.)  Do I have a change of clothes if it's cold?  How easily can I swim to shore?  Is the wind stronger than my free style stroke where I might lose the boat?  Is the water cold?  In the summer time, I fish in a swim suit and dive off into deep water to cool myself, so I'm not worried about wearing my vest, but I am also an open water swimmer.  I know I can swim 20-30 miles while navigating without gassing out.  It's important to note that you can't swim nearly as fast in a vest because it creates a lot of drag.  If you're going into dangerously cold water where hypothermia is a problem, you can't always rely on getting back to your boat where you store your dry bag with your extra clothes in it.  If you've gotta swim it to shore, you're gonna want to be wearing a wet suit or dry suit, but those won't totally save you.  In a hypothermic situation, generally you still need to worry about frost bite on your fingers and toes.  I've had frost bite numerous times, all in the Spring months and it's not fun.  Once you get it, that area wants to get it again.  Have a plan for going overboard and realize that plan can change from minute to minute as you move around the water.  If you're 2 miles away from the launch with a heavily wooded shoreline, you're not getting back to your truck.  I would say any cold water paddling is risky, but then again, we can't live our lives afraid of something going wrong.  I've thought of getting a really small dry bad and attaching it to me somehow with my clothes in it, but haven't totally figured this out.  Gotta act fast, the temperature is dumping in the Northeast in a big hurry this year.

 

-Rod floats....It's just a matter of time before you dump a combo into the drink.  Whoever designed my board had the bright idea to put the rod holders in the exact spot your paddle will hit if you farm a stroke so I lost one almost right away.  I use rod floats now, but they keep the rod from fitting in the Scotty rod holders on my boat, so I just lay them on the deck and am careful.  Most fishing kayaks have really busy decks, so this may not work for you. But then again, most of them have rod holders that actually make sense.

 

-Get used to fishing the opposite of bank fishing.  This took a really good amount of time this summer to get used to.  On the bank, you're stationary and the water moves.  In a boat, it's the other way around.  If you're talking about current things get even more weird.  So for me, I like to throw chatterbaits a lot, which from the bank I could burn in a straight line right back to me.  When from the boat, which is generally moving, the lure will come back in a bit of a curve to you.  So your visualization of the lure is different, plus your casting point.  So lets say you're floating down a river and you want to cross a piece of submerged cover.  You would cast before your boat got to the structure and start reeling in so you're pulling the lure over the structure rather than around it.  Took me 2 or 3 trips to figure that out.

 

-Keep your head up while rigging.  Can't tell you the weird places my boat has drifted into while my head is down.  Situational awareness is hard when you've got 10 different elements you're keeping track of.

 

And otherwise, good luck!  It's a tough transition, but it's super rewarding compared to bank fishing.  As much as I agree with the point to get used to the kayak before you start casting from it, if you're at least an intermediate angler, which most of us will be at best, I think it pays to start right away.  First off, you're gonna be burning up paddling around the water without a rod and second, I've found that 90% of this is muscle memory.  Every time I launch things are a little easier than the last time.  Kayaking on calm water is a stupid, stupid easy skill.  People with no experience at all rent and paddle all day on lakes without a single issue.  Being a bank fisherman has probably prepared you for more than you think.

[J Francho]

I have a couple of thoughts about this advice.  It's mostly well written, and almost all of it is pretty reliable.

5 minutes ago, Talio said:

You need a rod long enough that from your seated position the tip goes over the bow without fouling in case the bass runs under the boat and I've found he often will.

You can also let the fish pull the kayak around so it's always on the side you hooked it.  Of course, if it's taking you into trees, this won't work.  If a fish runs straight down, let it.  If it runs away from the boat, use the kayak as drag.

7 minutes ago, Talio said:

Land fish by grabbing the line.

Never, never, never, never, unless you are using really stout braid - and not even then if you can help it. Otherwise, get a net or learn to belly land them.  This may work a long time, until it doesn't.

10 minutes ago, Talio said:

Play fish with your rod parallel to the water. 

No matter where or what I'm fishing from, I hold the rod perpendicular to the fish.  In a kayak, canoe, or seated from a small boat that often means using "side pressure" on the fish.  Maybe that's what you mean parallel to the water?

9 minutes ago, Talio said:

Keep your head up while rigging.

True story.  This is about the only time I anchor up.  Otherwise I paddle way out of harm's way.

 

Anyway, that was a good write up, @Talio

[Talio]

What I worry about with rod length is the fish taking off under my boat and my line getting caught on the bow.  Having a long rod (6'6" seems to be enough for me, but I would think it depends on how long your arms are) I can make sure the line goes around the bow.

 

Grabbing the line seems to be a matter of opinion I've found.  I saw some pro (can't remember who, older southern gentleman) give a talk where he says he always grabs the line every time, but many other pro's will only boat flip or refuse to do either.  I've been doing it this way even from the bank for years on 6lbs test and it hasn't been a problem.  I'm also generally not using treble hooks lures, cause well...I don't like them.  I'm almost always using a big, stout hook.  I may regret this some day, but for now, as a beginner to boating, it seems to work.  Net is coming, but the only net I have now is a little short handled job for fly fishing.  It's on my list of things to try.  I'm just trying to illustrate that trying to grab him out of the water with your hands is a good way to take a drink depending on how stable the boat is.  If you can stand in it without it being tippy, you'll probably be okay.  Hard for me to say because I have that big open deck.  I have a lot of options.  OP has less.

 

So I'm not a geometry expert so I had to look this up, but playing fish with the rod tip to the side of your body rather than with the tip overhead is what I'm getting at.  It's pretty standard I know, but for me, that was a big lesson I had to relearn from the boat.  Not sure perpendicular is the word, but that would be a really stupid argument to get into right now.  I'll leave this for reference - https://www.khanacademy.org/math/basic-geo/basic-geo-lines/parallel-perp/a/parallel-perpendicular-review