Slx dc backlashing problems

[Austin2608]

New to Dc baitcasters went and bought a Slx Dc but it keeps wanting to backlash no matter what. Only way it won’t is if I apply heavy thumb when casting. Set everything like the manual said to. It’s spooled with #12Lb seaguar Invizx. Been throwing baitcasters for almost 8+ years don’t have a backlashing problem with anything else. Any help is greatly appreciated. Tight lines! 

[Jig Man]

Adjust it a little tighter on the spool knob.  They aren’t all the same.  I have 2 Curado DCs, one is by the book while the other needs more adjustment using the same line, same casting plug and matching rods.

[Austin2608]

8 minutes ago, Jig Man said:

Adjust it a little tighter on the spool knob.  They aren’t all the same.  I have 2 Curado DCs, one is by the book while the other needs more adjustment using the same line, same casting plug and matching rods.

Okay thanks will give it a try. 

[DanielG]

set the brake to the line recommendation. Put the lure on and adjust the tension knob until the bait drops a foot at a time when you lightly shake it. I haven't had a nest in 2 years of heavy use on my Curado DC. I've managed to train my thumb to stay off the spool. Wasn't easy but I've done it.

[Austin2608]

1 hour ago, DanielG said:

set the brake to the line recommendation. Put the lure on and adjust the tension knob until the bait drops a foot at a time when you lightly shake it. I haven't had a nest in 2 years of heavy use on my Curado DC. I've managed to train my thumb to stay off the spool. Wasn't easy but I've done it.

Okay thanks 

[ATA]

I have so many Dc reels, just few weeks ago I got SLX because it is cheaper and more compact and spool it with 12lb vanish, I set the break on 4 and I didn't have a single backlash, also the distance is really good, the rod is MH.

[Reel]

Be careful for the first cast of the day.  The reel is not powered and it's easy to get a backlash.

[GetFishorDieTryin]

37 minutes ago, Reel said:

Be careful for the first cast of the day.  The reel is not powered and it's easy to get a backlash.

That's a really good point that I have never heard anyone else say.  I run my slx DC loose and my thumb is just over top the line on the spool so if it starts to fluff I feel it right away and take of it.  The only time I go above 2 on the brakes is if the wind is howling. 

What part of the cast does the line start to get squirrely?  If its happens just after you cast the brakes should be higher.  If it gets bad at the end of the cast the spool tension should be higher.   

[Tywithay]

50 minutes ago, Rusty_Shackleford said:

That's a really good point that I have never heard anyone else say.  I run my slx DC loose and my thumb is just over top the line on the spool so if it starts to fluff I feel it right away and take of it.  The only time I go above 2 on the brakes is if the wind is howling. 

What part of the cast does the line start to get squirrely?  If its happens just after you cast the brakes should be higher.  If it gets bad at the end of the cast the spool tension should be higher.   

The IDC4 system doesn't really have settings for "more" brake, necessarily. 3 is the setting for fluorocarbon line. It's just a different braking profile because fluorocarbon is more dense than nylon and braid, which use setting 2. 

[dodgeguy]

7 hours ago, DanielG said:

set the brake to the line recommendation. Put the lure on and adjust the tension knob until the bait drops a foot at a time when you lightly shake it. I haven't had a nest in 2 years of heavy use on my Curado DC. I've managed to train my thumb to stay off the spool. Wasn't easy but I've done it.

How do you get any distance with that much spool tension ? 

[GetFishorDieTryin]

Yes, your right the more brake/tension statement isn't the most accurate way to explain exactly whats going on in each setting.  I have noticed with my SLX DC that I gradually lose casting distance when I go from 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 no matter what kind of line I use.  Your right the more brake/tension statement isn't the most accurate way to explain how to dial in a DC reel.  Im not 100% sure what the differences are between settings, but I would think its more complicated then more or less brakes. He said that he had set his reel according to the manual so I would imagine he has read the manual and knows what setting is recommended for the line hes using.  That was just the shortest and simplest way I could think of to explain how to possibly solve the issue.          

[dodgeguy]

I don't have one but I've heard they sense backlash and react to it by which setting you choose.

 

[Tywithay]

52 minutes ago, dodgeguy said:

I don't have one but I've heard they sense backlash and react to it by which setting you choose.

 

I think it actually senses spool speed and applies intermittent braking to slow the spool to the optimal speed. As far as the settings, I imagine that 3 brakes a little more in the beginning of the cast since fluorocarbon is heavier and you want to avoid the initial blowup. After that, it should flow easier than lighter braid/mono becausethe weight will help carry it. Setting 2 likely has more braking midcast to adjust for the lighter line having to deal with wind and earlier deceleration. Spool tension is usually set a little tighter on these DC reels. It's not like a Daiwa where you just eliminate side to side movement. These work better with the slow drop setup and a meaningful cast. No need to lob it, because the module works best when the spool is really moving.

[NHBull]

DC reels are not backlash proof and poor technique can create overruns

[GetFishorDieTryin]

As far as I understand the DC system is micro chip that senses spool speed and applies brakes as needed to get optimal casting distance without over runs.  I read that it can read and apply brakes up to a 1000 times a second or something like that.  All DC systems aren't equal, the more expensive reels have DC8 while the SLX and Curado have DC4.  Some people talk about DC reels like they are the end all be all braking system that turn a casting gear novice into a veteran over night, but its not true. At least with the DC4 systems its not true,  Ive never used the higher grade DC reels so I cant comment on them.  Im not saying that the DC system doesn't work because it does and it works well, its just isn't the miracle some people claim it to be.  I think the best thing about DCs is the versatility.  If you change lures from a 3/8oz jig to a 1/2oz flat sided crankbait and cast without adjusting anything you wont blow up your spool.  If you do want to dial the reel in for something specific you don't have to take the side plate off, you just change the setting and or adjust spool tension if needed.  The DC system pretty much simplifies things and allows some room for error.  

[DanielG]

8 hours ago, dodgeguy said:

How do you get any distance with that much spool tension ? 

You know, I don't know. The casting distance is as good or better than a thumbing reel. I think that if you set the line setting (2 for me with my braid) the tension knob sets the stopping tension (maybe?). When you cast, the electronics takes over the cast and loosens the tension during the cast and drops it to the tension you set at the end of the cast, slowing and stopping the spooling of the line. If you cast into a wall from may be 30 ft away, the reel stops pretty fast on it's own when you hit the wall. A really short, hard smack will make the spool fuzz up a bit.

A good example of this is when I occasionally misjudge my cast with a heavier lure and pull the trigger to late. The lure smacks the water in front of me. No thumb on the spool, the spool stops before any more line is released. So, there I am with a big overhand swing to bomb a crankbait, About 10 feet of line spools out as the lure its the water but that's it.

But, I really don't exactly know the science behind it. Someone mentioned that with poor technique you can still get a nest. I think that with the correct settings, a nest is not going to happen, even if I smack the water in front of me! The wrong settings, yes it will happen. But the setting is very easy to master.

When I'm not in the boat, I go down to the dock and take several casts a few times a day. I ignore the reel, I ignore the wind, I ignore my thumb. I don't have any backlashes.

[DomQ]

Manual says that setting 1 is the least about of braking, 2 is generally for braided line and mono, 3 if for fluorocarbon and 4 is for the most amount of braking out of the 4 settings.

[suzuki2903]

I have one on a Denali mh-f 7ft rod, 30lb sufix 832 braid , set the spool with just a tad of side play and in setting 2 for braid. No back lashes at all and no matter what lure I throw.  But I will say you have to thumb it just as it hits the water just like any other baitcast reel.    I think the one issue is everyone thinks these reels will make you a perfect baitcast user and always error free.... which is not the case at all.   I’d definitely practice on the casting technique.