Need help on line (braid)

[cal9323]

I’ve always just used mono or fluoro but always hear about using braid. 
I have spinning rods but I prefer to use my baitcaster (7’, heavy, fast). What would be best line for my baitcaster for most types of fishing (Senkos, spinnerbait, cranks etc ...). I throw from bank more so, but do go out on canoe a few times as well. 
 

Looking for opinions on braid:

1. Is that the best option?

2. If so:

    What lb braid?

    Leader with it?

    What lb leader (Assuming fluoro)?

    How long of a leader?

 

 

Like I said, I’ve never used braid but heard it’s especially better for feeling bites so I wanted to try it - does the leader affect the feel of the bite from braid?
 

Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Bankc]

I would suggest starting out on 30lb braid.  That's a good middle weight.  If you throw into heavy vegetation often and either have to winch up a bunch of branches and muck, or drag a big fish through it, you might up it 60lb.  But 30lb is a good all-purpose strength.  Maybe look at Suffix 832, for a brand.  They're one of the most highly regarded, if a bit expensive.  I've used it and have to say I think it handles better than most of the other stuff I've tried.  

 

As for the leader, it depends.  I'd start off with just using the straight braid for a while, and then once you get used to braid, decide if you actually need a leader.  From there, you'll know why you're using a leader, and that will help you to determine how long and what lb test of a leader you need. 

 

If you're looking for shock absorption, then you'll need a longer leader.  If you're looking for stealthy presentations, then you won't need as long of a leader.  If you're okay with tying leaders often while on the water, then you can probably get by with a short leader.  If you'd rather tie you leader at home and still be able to switch out a bunch of baits on the water, then you'll want a longer leader.  The leader serves a purpose.  You have to figure out what that purpose is first, and then you can figure out how to make it serve that purpose.  

[MickD]

  On 7/10/2020 at 8:34 PM, Bankc said:

I would suggest starting out on 30lb braid.  That's a good middle weight.  If you throw into heavy vegetation often and either have to winch up a bunch of branches and muck, or drag a big fish through it, you might up it 60lb.  But 30lb is a good all-purpose strength.  Maybe look at Suffix 832, for a brand.  They're one of the most highly regarded, if a bit expensive.  I've used it and have to say I think it handles better than most of the other stuff I've tried.  

 

As for the leader, it depends.  I'd start off with just using the straight braid for a while, and then once you get used to braid, decide if you actually need a leader.  From there, you'll know why you're using a leader, and that will help you to determine how long and what lb test of a leader you need. 

 

If you're looking for shock absorption, then you'll need a longer leader.  If you're looking for stealthy presentations, then you won't need as long of a leader.  If you're okay with tying leaders often while on the water, then you can probably get by with a short leader.  If you'd rather tie you leader at home and still be able to switch out a bunch of baits on the water, then you'll want a longer leader.  The leader serves a purpose.  You have to figure out what that purpose is first, and then you can figure out how to make it serve that purpose.  

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Excellent!

 

But then comes the knot discussion. . .

[WRB]

Direct braid leaves you with the problem of trying to break off a snag.

Mono is a better choice for leader material, more reliable knots.

When I use braid and it's isn't often it's Finns.

Tom

PS your reel drag and rod is your shock absorber.

 

[dodgeguy]

If you get snagged with braid pull it with a wood dowel that you wrap the line around. IMHO never go below 50 lb braid on a baitcaster.you will have way less issues that way. Sufix 832 or Tufline domin8.

[Born 2 fish]

  On 7/10/2020 at 9:39 PM, dodgeguy said:

If you get snagged with braid pull it with a wood dowel that you wrap the line around. IMHO never go below 50 lb braid on a baitcaster.you will have way less issues that way. Sufix 832 or Tufline domin8.

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This would be my recommendation also.

[George_anthony]

Just to add what others have said I like to put a little monofilament backing on my baitcasting reels before I spool braid. Depending on the reels and the braid itself because sometimes it does dig into the spool on your reel.

[jimmyjoe]

    7' H/F rod? For spinnerbaits and senkos ..... maybe. But for cranks?  And then you're gonna add braid to the mix, with the attendant reduction in flex? 

   I did that once. I learned my lesson ..... quick. Bought a crankin' rod and went back to mono. That's still what I use for cranks .... or any lure with a treble hook smaller than Musky Killer hooks. If you're bound and determined to use this H/F for cranks, I'd advise you to find the stretchiest mono in existence and use it. You'll need it, especially for jumpers.

   For Senkos, you're gonna have a slight problem with casting accuracy and distance if weightless, because a H/F won't load well enough. If you're in the kayak, it might (or might not) be OK. If you use a Carolina rig, you'll be fine.

   For spinnerbaits, I suggest you try the braid, but keep another reel of mono with you. Some people here like braid on spinnerbaits. Some (like me) don't. If you experience problems with the braid, change to the reel with mono right away and compare results. You'll find out what YOU like and don't like fairly quickly and easily.

   Good luck!      jj

  

[cal9323]

  On 7/11/2020 at 1:13 AM, jimmyjoe said:

    7' H/F rod? For spinnerbaits and senkos ..... maybe. But for cranks?  And then you're gonna add braid to the mix, with the attendant reduction in flex? 

   I did that once. I learned my lesson ..... quick. Bought a crankin' rod and went back to mono. That's still what I use for cranks .... or any lure with a treble hook smaller than Musky Killer hooks. If you're bound and determined to use this H/F for cranks, I'd advise you to find the stretchiest mono in existence and use it. You'll need it, especially for jumpers.

   For Senkos, you're gonna have a slight problem with casting accuracy and distance if weightless, because a H/F won't load well enough. If you're in the kayak, it might (or might not) be OK. If you use a Carolina rig, you'll be fine.

   For spinnerbaits, I suggest you try the braid, but keep another reel of mono with you. Some people here like braid on spinnerbaits. Some (like me) don't. If you experience problems with the braid, change to the reel with mono right away and compare results. You'll find out what YOU like and don't like fairly quickly and easily.

   Good luck!      jj

  

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thanks for sharing ... sounds like I should just stick with mono for most of my fishing. I’ve had good success on pretty much every bait with mono ... I just always hear so many people using braid. 
 

Honestly, I’ve never really paired up line/rod/reels with what I was using and seem to do fine. Only thing I do is throw my smaller finesse baits (Ned rig, paddletail swimbaits, etc ..) on a spinning combo. Everything else I tend to throw on the baitcaster. 

[WRB]

I have been using mono forever with good results. Today I use Sunline Defier Armillo Nylon mono. Check the line diameter compared to what you normally use, it's small diameter are very good casting line.

Tom

[Mr Swim Jig]

If I am using braid 90% of the time it is Daiwa Samurai braid and the other 10% is Suffix 832 braid...I use 40 to 50lbs on bait casters and 15 to 30 on spinning...always use the Palomar knot on braid....

 

I fish copolymer line probably 95% of the time....