What is your Chatterbait Set Up? Anything I am doing wrong?

[Chonch12]

Hello,

 

Been getting into chattterbaits more recently and doing rather well on them. Caught my PB and 2nd PB this year. Been throwing the Siebert 'Fogy' (3/8 - 1/2 oz with zako trailers). Also have 2 jackhammers from last year I got on sale.

 

Prior to getting my new baitcaster set up I was using St. Croix Triumph 6' 6" Med with 30lb Braid paired with Pflueger President XT 35x It worked well but the 1/2oz was a too much for this rod, 3/8 was fine. I wanted to use this for more finesse stuff so I switched over to my baitcaster.

 

Expride 7' 2" MH with Curado DC. This is my all purpose rod as I walk the banks 99% of the time. I recently tried 15lb Fluro seeing some great results for the most part. Was using 30-50lb braid. (have this Mono backed, to Braid, to Fluro on top (found this suggestion here in order to not waste a lot of Fluro)

 

Again I have been getting the lure crushed but having trouble keeping them from jumping off. Maybe I am inexperienced at catching fish further out? Cath most of my fish using soft plastics, closer to the bank. The biggest thing is keeping them from jumping, this is where they can spit the hook out most of the time. I lost what would have easily been a new PB (5+lb) 2 weeks ago on a jump. Very disappointing... but my own fault

 

Whey they hit I set the hook try to maintain consent pressure and reeling. Also when further out keep the rod tip low so they dont jump as much. Am I doing something wrong? Should the drag be tighter? Looser? Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thank you

[Dens228]

You are keeping the rod tip low to keep them from jumping but are you keeping it back?  Not pointed in the direction of the fish?  Let the rod keep tension on the hook.

[Reel]

Sharpen your hooks

[Manifestgtr]

With any jig fish, including chatters, I really try to keep the tension at every moment. Something you should be doing anyway, yeah...but jig heads are easily thrown. I lost a really good finesse jig fish this morning. Sometimes it just happens, unfortunately. Cost of doing business.

[Teal]

Your rig sounds sweet... just focus on detecting the hit, sweep the rod, keep him down.  I lost a bunch ofnpickrel last week on the jackhammer..sometimes it happens.   You are doing alot of things right.

[Cgrinder]

Your rod 'may' be a little fast for single hook moving baits. A high quality graphite rod, like the Expride, is very responsive; it will load and unload very quickly. Fish changes direction, jumps, etc and the rod unloads, pressure is off, fish throws the hook. You really have to be on your game and aware of your equipment; it's easy to make a mistake and lose a fish. This is why many folks, myself included, have come to prefer a stout but more moderate action rod for single hook moving baits. Alternatively, a lower end fast action rod will unload a bit slower. 

 

I do understand the appeal of doing it all or at least most of it with a single rod. During spring, I often found myself fishing a swim jig on a Loomis XF, just because that's the rod I had with me. With higher end fast action rods, I'm trying to end the fight as quickly as possible; get their head above water and ski 'em in. Keep the rod low and loaded and grind until you've got 'em. Don't be afraid to adjust your drag during the fight if necessary.

 

I hope some of this is relevant and helps.

[GReb]

I think you’ll find the Flouro will land more fish with that rod since it has a little more give and stretch than braid. Braid is popular with chatterbaits but most are pairing it up with moderate action or glass rods. 
 

The pinned weight on a jig head is typically going to work against you. The hook is inside the mouth and the weight is usually outside the mouth so if at any point there is slack in the line the weight of the jig head will push the hook out. So ultimately the name of the game is reduce slack. The right rod and line combo will help but unfortunately their isn’t a textbook answer. Try different setups and see what works for you. And try your best to keep the fish under the surface 

[Chonch12]

3 hours ago, Dens228 said:

You are keeping the rod tip low to keep them from jumping but are you keeping it back?  Not pointed in the direction of the fish?  Let the rod keep tension on the hook.

Yes doing my best at this, good advice Thank you

1 hour ago, Manifestgtr said:

With any jig fish, including chatters, I really try to keep the tension at every moment. Something you should be doing anyway, yeah...but jig heads are easily thrown. I lost a really good finesse jig fish this morning. Sometimes it just happens, unfortunately. Cost of doing business.

ok thanks for the feedback, good to know Im not crazy haha

1 hour ago, Teal said:

Your rig sounds sweet... just focus on detecting the hit, sweep the rod, keep him down.  I lost a bunch ofnpickrel last week on the jackhammer..sometimes it happens.   You are doing alot of things right.

Thanks I love it, figure spend a little more since I only have 3 set ups total. Great deals helped lol and it was actually mainly for jigs but the chatter bite has been on fire. Appreciate the feedback, good to know it wasn't 100% me just doing things wrong

59 minutes ago, Cgrinder said:

Your rod 'may' be a little fast for single hook moving baits. A high quality graphite rod, like the Expride, is very responsive; it will load and unload very quickly. Fish changes direction, jumps, etc and the rod unloads, pressure is off, fish throws the hook. You really have to be on your game and aware of your equipment; it's easy to make a mistake and lose a fish. This is why many folks, myself included, have come to prefer a stout but more moderate action rod for single hook moving baits. Alternatively, a lower end fast action rod will unload a bit slower. 

 

I do understand the appeal of doing it all or at least most of it with a single rod. During spring, I often found myself fishing a swim jig on a Loomis XF, just because that's the rod I had with me. With higher end fast action rods, I'm trying to end the fight as quickly as possible; get their head above water and ski 'em in. Keep the rod low and loaded and grind until you've got 'em. Don't be afraid to adjust your drag during the fight if necessary.

 

I hope some of this is relevant and helps.

This makes a lot of sense, thanks for the knowledge, reason I love this forum. Question on the drag. I tend to keep it much tighter when throwing Chatters to help with tension. However being newer with bass, should this be lighter, stronger when bringing them in? I feel like they should take some line correct but also wanna be able pull them in. I know this is a broad question but drag has always confused me some with fishing.

 

I have been catching fish in the 2-3lb range recently, when I am used to mainly dinks haha. For me anything over 2 is a good fish. 3.25lb is my PB. So I think its also an adjustment to catching larger fish, and a learning curve. Losing that pig (easily 4.5-5.5lb) before killed me and I wanted to make sure it wouldn't happen again. 

 

I upgraded this set up (great prices on them) and because I only have 3 set ups (2 Spin and 1 casting). walking the banks I really only like to bring 2 or 3 rods, especially the woods and such I go through. This rod was mainly for jigs and some other heavier lures but the chatter bite has been great.

22 minutes ago, GReb said:

I think you’ll find the Flouro will land more fish with that rod since it has a little more give and stretch than braid. Braid is popular with chatterbaits but most are pairing it up with moderate action or glass rods. 
 

The pinned weight on a jig head is typically going to work against you. The hook is inside the mouth and the weight is usually outside the mouth so if at any point there is slack in the line the weight of the jig head will push the hook out. So ultimately the name of the game is reduce slack. The right rod and line combo will help but unfortunately their isn’t a textbook answer. Try different setups and see what works for you. And try your best to keep the fish under the surface 

Interesting that Fluro should help more over the Braid, good to know. I was debating going back, but I have seen a  large uptick in bites with the Fluro over the Braid. Keeping te fish under the surface is the key Ive learned, that thing jumps im losing it like 75% of the time

 

All of that makes sense. Thanks for the feedback

Edited June 22, 2020 by Chonch12
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[DitchPanda]

I don't think your line is the issue...a lot of guys use that rod for jigs with braid or fluoro and I don't hear about them having an issue. I think the rod may be the issue. I agree with the assessment of the rod being to fast..to me that rod is more of a bottom contact rod..believe for a moving bait with the rod being fast you may be pulling the bait away from the fish causing you to barely skin hook them. What I use for bladed jigs, spinnerbaits and lipless is medium heavy moderate fast and I very rarely lose fish.

[Chonch12]

2 hours ago, DitchPanda said:

I don't think your line is the issue...a lot of guys use that rod for jigs with braid or fluoro and I don't hear about them having an issue. I think the rod may be the issue. I agree with the assessment of the rod being to fast..to me that rod is more of a bottom contact rod..believe for a moving bait with the rod being fast you may be pulling the bait away from the fish causing you to barely skin hook them. What I use for bladed jigs, spinnerbaits and lipless is medium heavy moderate fast and I very rarely lose fish.

Makes sense thanks. I purchased this as a multi purpose rod and mainly for jig and bottom fishing actually, but the Chatter bite has been so good I cant take them off haha

[Mr.C in Texas]

Great info on this post.  What has worked well for me with fast rods is to use 10ft. of mono as a leader. I can take the leader off when needed. 

[RoLo]

 

When a bass decides to jump, there isn't too much we can do.

Even plunging the rod-tip underwater won't necessarily change her mind. 

Adhere to the Big 3: Preset the proper drag tension, keep the rod perpendicular to the line

and maintain a constantly taut line. 

 

Roger

[Glaucus]

This thread is one of many reasons I highly disagree that a true fast action rod is the best all around ?‍♂️ in almost every instance give me a rod that is either labeled as or performs as a MF with a strong backbone.

[Heartland]

Cross their F'in eyes on the hook set, large single hook at a distance requires a strong hook set if you want to drive that point through the roof of the mouth or gill plate.  Make sure your hooks are sharp, seen many hooks that have a rolled point right out of the package.

 

[Chonch12]

19 hours ago, Heartland said:

Cross their F'in eyes on the hook set, large single hook at a distance requires a strong hook set if you want to drive that point through the roof of the mouth or gill plate.  Make sure your hooks are sharp, seen many hooks that have a rolled point right out of the package.

 

humm this is interesting, I know my hooks are razor sharp, but maybe I m not truly setting the hook since I already have some tension bringing the bait in. Ill keep this in mind. Thanks

 

 

[Heartland]

3 hours ago, Chonch12 said:

humm this is interesting, I know my hooks are razor sharp, but maybe I m not truly setting the hook since I already have some tension bringing the bait in. Ill keep this in mind. Thanks

 

 

Everything starts with a good hook set.  I use a MH/F or XF when I fish jigs, chatterbaits, buzz baits and anything else where I have a lot of line out and have to drive a large single hook into a fish.   I don't lose a lot of fish.  I have tried with slower rods but at long distances and heavy hooks they just fail to have enough hook setting power because the rod flexes too much.  In my camp a Moderate or Moderate Fast rod is for sweep setting small treble hooks.

Everyone has a style and opinion, this is mine.

[Mr Swim Jig]

For single hooks baits like a chatterbait, swimjig or a spinnerbait I like Daiwa MH/R action rod which is close to other rod manufactures MOD/Fast...I also use 10 to 12lbs fluorocarbon...

[Lobocito]

Yeah you gotta cross their eyes even if they hit it on the move, at least with the Jackhammer. I've been ON FIRE with the Jackhammer using 15# flouro on a MH-F. I keep my drag light enough that when I hookset it gives just a little on them, but swing for the fences every time I get bit. If I throw a huge hookset and they are still there, they almost never get off. Recently had a 3.5 jump maybe 4 times and she never had a chance. 

 

A few other tips - I pull away from the fish down and sideways when I can tell they are trying to jump and be d**n sure you can pull even further once they get up in the air, and reel like crazy while they are airborne. The benefit of keeping your drag appropriate is that you can reel as hard as possible without necessarily just jerking the fishes head towards you - in another words, its easier to keep constant tension, because you won't snap the fish towards you with a big reel turn or jerk of the rod and create slack 

 

Edit: I'll note that you will lose some fish swinging for the fences... but IMO, if you can't drive the hook some with a big swing, they're gonna get off before you get your hands on them anyways. 

[Heartland]

On 6/22/2020 at 9:55 AM, Cgrinder said:

Your rod 'may' be a little fast for single hook moving baits. A high quality graphite rod, like the Expride, is very responsive; it will load and unload very quickly. Fish changes direction, jumps, etc and the rod unloads, pressure is off, fish throws the hook. You really have to be on your game and aware of your equipment; it's easy to make a mistake and lose a fish. This is why many folks, myself included, have come to prefer a stout but more moderate action rod for single hook moving baits. Alternatively, a lower end fast action rod will unload a bit slower. 

 

I do understand the appeal of doing it all or at least most of it with a single rod. During spring, I often found myself fishing a swim jig on a Loomis XF, just because that's the rod I had with me. With higher end fast action rods, I'm trying to end the fight as quickly as possible; get their head above water and ski 'em in. Keep the rod low and loaded and grind until you've got 'em. Don't be afraid to adjust your drag during the fight if necessary.

 

I hope some of this is relevant and helps.

Please explain to me your thoughts on a rod being to fast for single hook moving baits.

[Boomstick]

Are you actually losing them mid fight, or not really getting them hooked well to begin with? Once I get a bite and I know I got a solid hookset on a chatterbait, I'm usually landing that fish. Be sure to keep your rod tip down when retrieving the lure so you're in position for a solid hookset, and when they run with it try to use the rod to position them and keep them from jumping and reel up any slack when they swim towards you and repeat when they turn or try to jump.

 

I am not familiar with your rod, but most MH/F rods are fine for a 3/8 or 1/2oz chatterbait. You should be fine with a MH that runs on the heavier side and a mod. fast even - you can get away with a slower tip on a moving bait when they're swimming at you and they straight up eat it as opposed to say an archy head jig because they're likely to eat it and let you know they did and if you're constantly reeling, you've reeled in all the slack.

 

 

 

[Chonch12]

4 hours ago, Lobocito said:

Yeah you gotta cross their eyes even if they hit it on the move, at least with the Jackhammer. I've been ON FIRE with the Jackhammer using 15# flouro on a MH-F. I keep my drag light enough that when I hookset it gives just a little on them, but swing for the fences every time I get bit. If I throw a huge hookset and they are still there, they almost never get off. Recently had a 3.5 jump maybe 4 times and she never had a chance. 

 

A few other tips - I pull away from the fish down and sideways when I can tell they are trying to jump and be d**n sure you can pull even further once they get up in the air, and reel like crazy while they are airborne. The benefit of keeping your drag appropriate is that you can reel as hard as possible without necessarily just jerking the fishes head towards you - in another words, its easier to keep constant tension, because you won't snap the fish towards you with a big reel turn or jerk of the rod and create slack 

 

Edit: I'll note that you will lose some fish swinging for the fences... but IMO, if you can't drive the hook some with a big swing, they're gonna get off before you get your hands on them anyways. 

Makes ton of sense. Think this is part of my problem. I'm not giving a true legit hook set when they hit it on the move. Think that's why I'm losing some mid fight. Appreciate the write up and advice 

[RoLo]

20 hours ago, Chonch12 said:

I'm not giving a true legit hook set when they hit it on the move.

Think that's why I'm losing some mid fight. 

 

Hook-set 'timing' is second to nothing.

A hook-set that's a fraction of a second early or late, cannot be corrected by a jaw-breaking hook-set

 

Roger

[Cgrinder]

11 hours ago, Heartland said:

Please explain to me your thoughts on a rod being to fast for single hook moving baits.

Two thoughts: 1) fast rod unloading during the fight and causing pressure on the fish to be lost, as described in my post, and 2) fast rod may stop loading before the fish has sufficiently engulfed the bait, especially on a short initial strike, causing the angler to inadvertently take the bait away from the fish.

 

Keep in mind, you can and will catch/land plenty of fish on a Fast action rod throwing a moving bait, especially if you run a bit of stretch in your line (straight fluoro, nylon, etc). However for the purpose of technique specificity and dialing in equipment, I am of the opinion that more Moderate rods feel better during the bite and fight. Of course, this may necessitate a step up in rod power, but that's a different topic altogether I think.

[Heartland]

Two thoughts: 1) fast rod unloading during the fight and causing pressure on the fish to be lost, as described in my post,   

 

I think if you are letting the rod unload during the fight, that is a matter of technique and not rod/action specific. Once the rod loads on the initial strike and set, why would you let your rod unload from that point?  Keep pressure on the fish.

 

2) fast rod may stop loading before the fish has sufficiently engulfed the bait, especially on a short initial strike, 

What would the rod be loading on at all if the fish does not have the bait?   Fish short strike some, but there are a lot of ways to reduce those times.

 

[Cgrinder]

5 hours ago, Heartland said:

Two thoughts: 1) fast rod unloading during the fight and causing pressure on the fish to be lost, as described in my post,   

 

I think if you are letting the rod unload during the fight, that is a matter of technique and not rod/action specific. Once the rod loads on the initial strike and set, why would you let your rod unload from that point?  Keep pressure on the fish.

 

2) fast rod may stop loading before the fish has sufficiently engulfed the bait, especially on a short initial strike, 

What would the rod be loading on at all if the fish does not have the bait?   Fish short strike some, but there are a lot of ways to reduce those times.

 

 

Yeah, sure, I dont necessarily disagree. I feel you didn't much read my initial comment beyond the first sentence. I agree, keep the pressure on. But how do you keep pressure when the fish suddenly changes direction or jumps? In these situations, sometimes a fast or extra fast rod unloads.

 

Keep in mind I'm specifically talking about true fast, higher end graphite rods with a high recovery rate. For example, the Expride the OP uses. A Loomis MBR, for example, loads deeper despite being also rated as Fast. I don't have issues with swimming jigs or chatters on an NRX MBR. However, I do have issues on an NRX JWR of the same power.