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  • Super User
Posted

I’m sure I’m right, but I’ll ask. When rigging, should the barb end be on the flat side of the worm? 

  • Like 1
Posted

When I texas rig a trick worm, the flat side is facing down. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Ok, that seemed to make sense. Never used one before yesterday. Had one weightless with a Gamma 3/0 EWG. Tossed it out and it got slurped down a second after it hit the water. That’s a good sign! 

  • Super User
Posted

I always rig them round side up, but when they get ripped up I flip them and it doesn't seem to matter.  

 

Weightless Trickworms are one of my favorite presentations and I am on a likely endless quest to find my "perfect" combo for them.  

Posted

Zoom Trick worms are some of the best worms made.  There is no way to fish them wrong. My favorite is wacky style hooked in the middle.  Works like dynamite in a canal.  If weeds are a problem, hook them in the nose Texas style with no weight and a swivel about 18" above the worm.  I throw this on an 8 pound test spinning outfit.  I've won lots of money using it, especially when fish are on the beds. 

 

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  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted
4 minutes ago, Captain Phil said:

Zoom Trick worms are some of the best worms made.  There is no way to fish them wrong. My favorite is wacky style hooked in the middle.  Works like dynamite in a canal.  If weeds are a problem, hook them in the nose Texas style with no weight and a swivel about 18" above the worm.  I throw this on a 8 pound test spinning outfit.  I've won lots of money using it, especially when fish are on the beds. 

 

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Seen that picture before, been preaching that for years.

 

 

Wacky.jpg.14ce47cabab21e617a9d6e405f624ab2.jpg

  • Super User
Posted
2 minutes ago, Catt said:

 

Seen that picture before, been preaching that for years.

 

 

Wacky.jpg.14ce47cabab21e617a9d6e405f624ab2.jpg

Every time this comes up I give it a try but I have never gotten it to work, it seems like at the slightest contact with any kind of cover the hook pops through the worm and snags.  I try to fish it with a very slow lift-n-dip retrieve like I do with them weightless t-rigged, but never seem to get bit.  How and where are you fishing them?  

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
4 minutes ago, fishwizzard said:

Every time this comes up I give it a try but I have never gotten it to work, it seems like at the slightest contact with any kind of cover the hook pops through the worm and snags.  I try to fish it with a very slow lift-n-dip retrieve like I do with them weightless t-rigged, but never seem to get bit.  How and where are you fishing them?  

Good question, as I’d likely pick up a 1/2 lb of algae with the swivel lol. It looks good, though! 

  • Super User
Posted
4 minutes ago, fishwizzard said:

Every time this comes up I give it a try but I have never gotten it to work, it seems like at the slightest contact with any kind of cover the hook pops through the worm and snags.  I try to fish it with a very slow lift-n-dip retrieve like I do with them weightless t-rigged, but never seem to get bit.  How and where are you fishing them?  

 

Outside grasslines, buckbrush, bridge pilings, creek channels.

 

Ain't throwing in the cover...dropping it on the edge.

Posted

Use a thin wire 3/0 wide gap hook and hook the worm in the nose just like would would with a Texas rig. Do not use a bullet weight.  The weight of the swivel is all you need.  The swivel pulls the worm down slowly and naturally.  It's much like a Mojo rig only lighter.  This rig works best in shallow residential canals without a lot of algae.  Most of the hits come on the fall.  If you are fishing a clear canal, make long casts in front of you.  Many of the fish will be in the middle of the canal. It's deadly on bedding fish.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted
9 minutes ago, Catt said:

 

Outside grasslines, buckbrush, bridge pilings, creek channels.

 

Ain't throwing in the cover...dropping it on the edge.

Interesting, I was definitely trying to use it where I fish t-rigged trickworms, which is generally areas of cover that still have a lot of pockets of open water.  This makes it inevitable that the presentation is going to bump into a lot of stuff as I work it back to me, I’ll give it a go again and stick to edges.

  • Like 1
Posted

Residential canals are often ignored.  Most anglers like to fish open lakes.  There is nothing pretty about fishing in someone's back yard, except it's often full of fish. The same thing applies to the rim ditch in Okeechobee.  

  • Super User
Posted
16 minutes ago, Captain Phil said:

Residential canals are often ignored.  Most anglers like to fish open lakes.  There is nothing pretty about fishing in someone's back yard, except it's often full of fish. The same thing applies to the rim ditch in Okeechobee.  

It’s like residential bowhunting. I love hunting in the mountains. Beautiful scenery, fresh air, the solitude. But hunting 2-4 acres parcels in the ‘burbs can produce some real hammer bucks. You have to deal with lawnmowers, kids on bikes, neighbors playing music, etc. Not great as far as the “visual hunting experience” is concerned. But you have a great chance at a real monster buck. 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
21 hours ago, fishwizzard said:

Interesting, I was definitely trying to use it where I fish t-rigged trickworms, which is generally areas of cover that still have a lot of pockets of open water.  This makes it inevitable that the presentation is going to bump into a lot of stuff as I work it back to me, I’ll give it a go again and stick to edges.

 

With this rig think vertical ?

 

When targeting grass I look for areas where the grass abruptly stops forming a shear wall. This areas are usually where quick depth changes occur or bottom composition changes.

 

Standing timber I want it to fall vertically down the tree/stump.

 

Bridge pilings are fished similar to standing timber.

 

Bluff banks, ours are not shear walls but we have high banks with short shorelines covered with buck brush extending out a few feet then dropping off quickly.

 

I'm usually not making long cast but rather a pitching distance.

  • Super User
Posted
12 minutes ago, Catt said:

 

With this rig think vertical ?

 

When targeting grass I look for areas where the grass abruptly stops forming a shear wall. This areas are usually where quick depth changes occur or bottom composition changes.

 

Standing timber I want it to fall vertically down the tree/stump.

 

Bridge pilings are fished similar to standing timber.

 

Bluff banks, ours are not shear walls but we have high banks with short shorelines covered with buck brush extending out a few feet then dropping off quickly.

 

I'm usually not making long cast but rather a pitching distance.

Copy.  I’ll try it again with more of a “wacky rig mindset”.  Is the swivel there mostly for weight or mostly for line-twist mitigation?

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted
50 minutes ago, fishwizzard said:

Copy.  I’ll try it again with more of a “wacky rig mindset”.  Is the swivel there mostly for weight or mostly for line-twist mitigation?

 

Both ?

 

By changing the size of the swivel you can change the rate of fall.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I've been fishing a weightless TR trick work without a swivel and I haven't had any line twist issues. I tie hooks into creme worms and I usually use a snap swivel on those.

  • Like 1

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