Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

*I initially posted in marine electronics, but since it's about a kayak I'm re-posting here. figured it would get more attention*

 

New to kayak fishing, I've had my lure 11.5 for just over a year now and I want to start adding on to it. I'm looking to add a depth/fish finder at the moment, but I have no idea what makes a good one and what the price ranges are. I'm sure I could research them just like I normally do with my fishing stuff, but I figured I'd ask around here first. 

 

I'm on a budget, but since I'm not sure how expensive a decent one is I don't know where to set the bar so any recommendation is welcome. If you need anymore info before giving any suggestions let me know and i'll do my best to provide it. 

 

Thanks, 

Harrison

  • Like 1
Posted

Your budget? Do you want side scan?  If you dont want side scan I'll look for a older lowrance hdi units in the 4 or 5.  Want side scan then the hook 2 triple shot.  Or Cabelas have the Garmin 73sv onsale now.  It has side and capable livescope.  Not a bird user so dont know much about them.  I will be in the future though.  Buddy has G3N bird and the side image is clear asf if that's what your going for.  Otherwise the 73Sv are pretty good already.  My hook2 were just a tad below in detail compared to my SV plus.  Di on hook 2 and old models are the same that's why if you decide not to get side then hdi are hard to beat

  • Like 1
Posted
59 minutes ago, THE_Vue's said:

Your budget? Do you want side scan?  If you dont want side scan I'll look for a older lowrance hdi units in the 4 or 5.  Want side scan then the hook 2 triple shot.  Or Cabelas have the Garmin 73sv onsale now.  It has side and capable livescope.  Not a bird user so dont know much about them.  I will be in the future though.  Buddy has G3N bird and the side image is clear asf if that's what your going for.  Otherwise the 73Sv are pretty good already.  My hook2 were just a tad below in detail compared to my SV plus.  Di on hook 2 and old models are the same that's why if you decide not to get side then hdi are hard to beat

When I said I don't know much about depth finders, I really meant it lol. If I had to guess, side scan doesn't just tell you the depth right below, but all around as well? As for a budget, I'm not sure because I don't know how much I need to spend to get a decent one. If I can get good quality one for $100-150 that would be best, but I'm willing to spend more if that won't even get me close to what I need. 

 

What Optimator recommended, the Striker, seems like you get a lot for the price. But I don't know what other finders offer at that price point. I'm not sure how much more something with side scan would run me, but I'll look at that right now. 

  • Super User
Posted

I have a Lowrance Hook2 5.  It has GPS with CMAPs, down imaging, and side imaging.  The 5" screen is pretty small for a boat, but plenty big for a kayak.  It's probably the cheapest fish finder with side imaging.  However, the transducer is like a foot long, so it won't fit in the scupper holes, like some other transducers will.  I mount mine over the side on a Scotty transducer arm mount.  I have the display attached to the same mount, so it's not a big issue, other than when it's lowered into the water, it creates asymmetrical drag which pulls the kayak off to one side a bit as you paddle.  You could mount it into the rear, but that might make loading and unloading harder, if you can't easily remove it.

 

You'll want the check some videos and websites on what features are available to see how they work and to see which ones you might actually use.  Like side scan and down scan don't easily show you fish.  They just show you structure. The sonar is for fish (and they all have sonar).  The GPS is pretty useless without a good map.  Your phone does that.  What you want from the GPS napping in a fish finder is details on depths of the lakes you visit.  Different companies have different default mapping programs, and different mapping companies have different lakes mapped out.  So you might want to check around to see which mapping companies have the maps for the lakes you visit preloaded.  You can usually go to their websites and see what their maps of individual lakes look like.  You can buy the maps afterwards, but their expensive.  So it's best to get the right ones when you buy the fish finder, if you plan on using them.

Posted

My kayak has a elite 4 on it it’s been great. I bought a garmin striker 4 plus for my bass raider I’ve not used it yet.

Posted

One thing to keep in mind is if you plan on doing a split screen.  If so the bigger the better.  I have an Echomap UHD 7" with SideVu.  I love it.  I actually use three views at once now that I've learned to read the SideVu and wish I had the 10" screen.  With just two views 7" would be fine. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I have a smaller bass boat and didn't want to spend a ton of money on the fish finder.  I ended up with the Garmin Striker Plus 4 CV.   Its a great deal for less the 200 bucks!   I'm still learning about all of its capabilities but so far its been great.

  • Like 2
Posted

Garmin striker 4cv is what I'm getting for my Yak. $180.00 .. been trying to find father days sales with no luck for it.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you to everyone who responded. It seems like the Garmin Striker 4cv is going to be my choice, every where I've looked people only seemed to have good things to say about it. After doing some searching, I don't think that side imaging is important enough to me to spend $100+ more so the Striker should do me fine. 

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, Bankc said:

I have a Lowrance Hook2 5.  It has GPS with CMAPs, down imaging, and side imaging.  The 5" screen is pretty small for a boat, but plenty big for a kayak.  It's probably the cheapest fish finder with side imaging.  However, the transducer is like a foot long, so it won't fit in the scupper holes, like some other transducers will.  I mount mine over the side on a Scotty transducer arm mount.  I have the display attached to the same mount, so it's not a big issue, other than when it's lowered into the water, it creates asymmetrical drag which pulls the kayak off to one side a bit as you paddle.  You could mount it into the rear, but that might make loading and unloading harder, if you can't easily remove it.

 

You'll want the check some videos and websites on what features are available to see how they work and to see which ones you might actually use.  Like side scan and down scan don't easily show you fish.  They just show you structure. The sonar is for fish (and they all have sonar).  The GPS is pretty useless without a good map.  Your phone does that.  What you want from the GPS napping in a fish finder is details on depths of the lakes you visit.  Different companies have different default mapping programs, and different mapping companies have different lakes mapped out.  So you might want to check around to see which mapping companies have the maps for the lakes you visit preloaded.  You can usually go to their websites and see what their maps of individual lakes look like.  You can buy the maps afterwards, but their expensive.  So it's best to get the right ones when you buy the fish finder, if you plan on using them.

I have the same unit without side scanning. Transducer fits nicely in scupper. 5 is ok for kayak especially if you’re on a budget. I’d like to get a 7” screen but no money for it right now. 

Posted

A garmin striker 4 cv is a pretty good graph for the money although the mapping feature on mine has been pretty iffy, will randomly stop recording and half the time won’t record at all even though it says it is. I just got a humminbird helix 5 SI for my boat and am really happy with it. It was the least expensive option I could find with both side imaging as well as being able to use a lakemaster chip on it, both of which I use all of the time. It is $499 so a good amount more expensive than the striker but it’s worth it. Garmin makes a 7” model in that price range with side imaging but you can’t put a chip in it so I’ll take a smaller screen and lake maps any day over an extra 2”.

Posted
14 hours ago, Ogandrews said:

A garmin striker 4 cv is a pretty good graph for the money although the mapping feature on mine has been pretty iffy, will randomly stop recording and half the time won’t record at all even though it says it is. I just got a humminbird helix 5 SI for my boat and am really happy with it. It was the least expensive option I could find with both side imaging as well as being able to use a lakemaster chip on it, both of which I use all of the time. It is $499 so a good amount more expensive than the striker but it’s worth it. Garmin makes a 7” model in that price range with side imaging but you can’t put a chip in it so I’ll take a smaller screen and lake maps any day over an extra 2”.

Yeah sadly I can't go up to anywhere near $500, but I think that the Striker will be ok for me. I'm just throwing it on a kayak and I'm usually fishing smaller bodies of water, just ponds and once in a while your average size lake, so I'm not really worried about mapping much. I'd just like to know what's below me really. Thanks for the input!

Posted

I guess I responded in the old thread

 

I was gonna get a Striker, then someone here told me the Echomap Plus 6SCV with a 6 inch screen was on sale for $300 (and still is at BPS, I added a link in the other thread)

 

I couldn't use a 4 inch Striker without glasses on. This 6 inch is awesome, plus it has lake maps built in. Highly recommended if it's in your price range.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I'm more than happy with my Garmin Striker's. Easy to use. Lot's of "bang for the buck". I have had Lowrance Elite's , and Humminbird Helix's (gen 1 for both) and the Garmin beats them both hands down. The 4" is fine on the console of my little Bass Tracker, and the 5" is great on the bow.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/19/2020 at 8:13 PM, optimator said:

I'm more than happy with my Garmin Striker 4

I second this... I've had one for a couple of years not and it's pretty good.

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, ww2farmer said:

I'm more than happy with my Garmin Striker's. Easy to use. Lot's of "bang for the buck". I have had Lowrance Elite's , and Humminbird Helix's (gen 1 for both) and the Garmin beats them both hands down. The 4" is fine on the console of my little Bass Tracker, and the 5" is great on the bow.

 

16 hours ago, DanielG said:

I second this... I've had one for a couple of years not and it's pretty good.

Great to hear guys thank you!

18 hours ago, schplurg said:

I guess I responded in the old thread

 

I was gonna get a Striker, then someone here told me the Echomap Plus 6SCV with a 6 inch screen was on sale for $300 (and still is at BPS, I added a link in the other thread)

 

I couldn't use a 4 inch Striker without glasses on. This 6 inch is awesome, plus it has lake maps built in. Highly recommended if it's in your price range.

I'll check it out for sure, but I think I'm just going to go with the striker just because it's pretty close to what I was hoping to spend and I haven't really heard anything bad about it yet. And I'm not too worried about reading the screen since I've got pretty good eyes at 16 lol

  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, BigBass'n_Harrison said:

 

Great to hear guys thank you!

I'll check it out for sure, but I think I'm just going to go with the striker just because it's pretty close to what I was hoping to spend and I haven't really heard anything bad about it yet. And I'm not too worried about reading the screen since I've got pretty good eyes at 16 lol

I think you'll be happy with that.  The screen is small, but with that comes the fact that it doesn't take up a lot of space, and space is kind of a premium on a kayak.  And if you're not one of those people who complains that they can't see the text on their phone, then you'll probably be alright.  If you have trouble seeing what's going on, just lean over a bit to get a closer look.  When the screen is split, you'll just be looking for general information anyway.  You don't need specifics and details.  When you need to see the details, you won't be using the split screen.  And since the display will always be within arm's reach, switching back and forth won't be an issue.  

 

I don't really use the side imaging as much as I thought I would.  9 times out of 10, what's going on to the side is pretty much the same as what's going on right below me.  And if there is a difference, like rocks or brush, I can usually see signs of that on the surface.  So it rarely tells me something that I didn't already know.  It's nice to have, but it's probably the least important feature on a fish finder.  

 

The only real downside I see is the lack of mapping.  It does have the Quickdraw mapping ability, which allows you to create your own maps.  And they have a website where you can download the maps other user's have uploaded.  But they don't have the capability to run some of the nicer mapping programs that other fish finders have.  It's probably not a deal breaker for you though.  At worst, you could always look up some depth cart maps on your phone for the lake you're visiting.  A minor inconvenience to save a bunch of money.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

All of that is exactly why I am going with the Striker. It does as much as I need it to do at a lot lower price, I'm not too worried about mapping because like I said I'm not out on large bodies of water often. And I'm not worried about having a smaller screen, like you said space is pretty much top priority on yak. 

 

Thanks Bankc, tight lines

  • Super User
Posted

You need to factor in a battery to operate the sonar unit. More features a sonar unit has the power it takes to operate everything. 

Where fish kayaker's tend to stay near the shore out of the way of boat traffic. My suggestion with your inexperience and fishing from a kayak is start with a simple 2D color display unit that displays depth, water temps with CHIRP for good target separation.

Look into a used unit that someone wants to upgrade to a larger size for example. 

Tom 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, WRB said:

You need to factor in a battery to operate the sonar unit. More features a sonar unit has the power it takes to operate everything. 

Where fish kayaker's tend to stay near the shore out of the way of boat traffic. My suggestion with your inexperience and fishing from a kayak is start with a simple 2D color display unit that displays depth, water temps with CHIRP for good target separation.

Look into a used unit that someone wants to upgrade to a larger size for example. 

Tom 

Tom your always providing the best info on literally every topic on this website lol thanks for the response, I’ll follow ur advice

  • Super User
Posted

Look for a wheelchair battery.  Something with Sealed Lead Acid technology at 12v.  They're a lot smaller and usually cheaper than the deep cycle batteries made for boats.  Size and weight, of course, are always an issue.  You can buy lithium ion batteries too, and they're even smaller and lighter, but a good bit more expensive.  They're not worth the extra money, in my opinion.  The Garmin Striker 4CV runs at about 400mA.  So with a 7Ah battery, that ought to get you over 14 hours of use on a full charge when the battery is new.  No need to go higher than that, unless you plan on spending a weekend of fishing and camping without a way to charge the battery.  Try to find one that comes with a battery charger, as they tend to be cheaper when sold as a pack versus buying separately (at least in my experience they were).  

 

If you want to buy a waterproof box for it, they make some waterproof ammo cans or other dry boxes that you can buy pretty cheap.  Find one that's big enough to hold the battery.  Then just pack the inside with foam or whatever, so the battery stays put (and finding an exact dimension will probably be impossible, so find a box that's a bit larger and pack it in to make it snug).  Drill a hole in it and install a waterproof cable gland.  You can get even more fancy with switches, USB outlets and battery meters, but I find them unnecessary on a kayak.  They even sell premade ones, but they tend to be a lot more expensive than going the DIY route.  And the DIY rout is easy.  All you need is a drill to drill a hole for the cable gland, and some scissors and contact cement for the foam (I used some scrap EVA foam from some foam puzzle garage mats that I got at Harbor Freight years ago).  Then maybe a bungee to strap it down or some industrial strength velcro.  I think I paid about $30 for all the parts for mine.

 

You'll also need a way to mount it all.  Scotty and Yak Attack make some decent fish finder mounts that aren't too expensive.  You can go the DIY route, but I don't think you'd save that much money, or come up with as elegant of a solution (unless you have a 3D printer).  Plus they're easy to tear down and reinstall, which helps for transportation and storage.  Just be sure not to try to shorten the transducer cable.  You can cut the power cable down, but the transducer cable needs to be a certain length to work properly.  If you need to, coil it up with some zip-ties to get it out of the way.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


  • Outboard Engine

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.