Use more breaks or rely solely on my thumb?

[SoCalFishingWithCy]

For awhile I’ve been using the “educated thumb” method of casting, with the spool tension loose and the breaks on the lowest setting. And I usually get pretty good distance and accuracy this way, but I’m noticing that it’s hard to be consistent with the lighter baits since they change speed in the air much quicker which is hard to adjust to. So it affects my consistency. 
 

So I’m wondering if any of you prefer to keep the spool loose but turn up the breaks a tad for distance? 
 

I tried this and it definitely helps with the lighter baits. But I think I still prefer to keep the breaks on the lowest setting with heavier baits. And I always keep my spool tension loose because of accuracy and versatility.  
 
What do you all prefer? With lighter baits do you leave the spool tension loose and then increase the breaks to make it easier to control? Do you notice an increase in distance?

 

New to bass resource but this question has been on my mind so I would appreciate any advise. Thanks

Edited June 15, 2020 by SoCalFishingWithCy

[waymont]

Just get a Tatula SV tw and stop worrying about it. No joke.

[dodgeguy]

i always leave the tension loose. a little more brake should help.

[Bankc]

For me, it depends on the reel, the rod, the line, and the lure.  Some reels can be dialed in so that you don't have to use your thumb except to stop the spool as the lure hits the water.  Some reels always require some thumb (especially older reels).  Sometimes if the lure is really light, you need a soft rod to get much distance without having to cast too hard to the point where you have to back off the spool tension and compensate with breaks and your thumb.  

 

Whatever works for you, that's what you should do.  I try to set up my gear for maximum distance with minimal thumb.  I get a lot of tiny backlashes this way, but I can often clear them out by just lifting the rod while the lure sinks into the water.  I could ease up the spool tension to get a bit more distance, but then I'd have to use more thumb, and I tend to be more focused on how I plan to retrieve while the baits in the air and don't like having to pay attention to the spool.  I typically like to leave the breaks alone once I find a good setting for most baits, and only really adjust for wind and unusual circumstances.

 

[SoCalFishingWithCy]

Ok thanks for the feedback. I have the ability to tune my reel so that I can just thumb it before it hits the water just like any other modern reel. But I prefer to keep the spool tension loose. It helps my distance, accuracy, and versatility. And I like being able to just pick up my bait caster and throw any bait right off the bat.

 

My question is if those with an educated thumb do better throwing lighter baits with minimal spool tension and minimal breaks, or if they keep their spool tension loose and use a bit of breaks. 

Because I feel like I get better distance if I dial in the breaks, but I’m worried that if I do that all the time that I’m going to get used to it and not be able to go back 

Edited June 15, 2020 by SoCalFishingWithCy

[WRB]

I am old and learned to drive using a standard shift car with a clutch. My 1st reel was a baitcasting with no free spool or any braking system. You learn to use what you have.

Today's performance cars have paddle shifters using electronic clutch, no more foot peddles. 

Todays baitcasting reels have breaking systems like todays performance cars with paddle shifters. You need to learn to engage a clutch or use your thumb like we did in the past. 

Me, I still use my thumb.

Tom

[SoCalFishingWithCy]

Thanks Tom that’s what I’m looking for. So when you say you use your thumb, do you use any assistance from the breaking system at all?

I currently can cast a bait pretty good with no spool tension or breaks but I just find that I’m not as consistent when I’m throwing lighter baits so I’m trying to decide between using assistance from the breaking system or just keep going the way I have 

[WRB]

I use minimal breaking with FC line in the wind because it's dry and sheds water. Mono almost no braking and braid I use much except in heavy cover and trying to make long cast. FC is the most difficult line for me cast into wind and requires a line conditioner to help manage it.

My average cast using jigs is between 40 to 50 yards....long casts.

Tom

[SoCalFishingWithCy]

Ok thanks Tom and everyone. Yeah I think I’m gonna use a bit of breaks with lighter baits but keep them off while throwing the heavier stuff. I can get it done entirely without the breaks but I guess it all comes down to preference in the end, and I’m looking for consistency. Let me know what you think

 

Cy

By the way I use floro and braid. I don’t use mono main line 

Edited June 15, 2020 by SoCalFishingWithCy

[Manifestgtr]

I learned on an old abu ambassadeur back in the early 90s before I had any idea what brakes were (it’s “brakes” by the way...if it “breaks”, that’s a totally different story). I barely even knew what the spool tension did and after a while, I lost the cap. So I was left with this reel that had god knows what for brakes and literally no spool tension. Now that’s one extreme and I don’t think it’s a particularly good one, to be honest. Not knowing what your gear can help you with is only going to hurt you.
 

Getting good with your thumb is universally accepted as “important” in the bass fishing community. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a credible source claim otherwise. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t learn your brakes as well. I keep some reels loose and some reels tight depending on their use. My light frog rod has a curado 70 with all four brakes engaged and the dial around 4...why? Because the pad crasher jr is LIGHT but I want at least a medium/heavy rod to help out with cover. So I lean on my brakes a little more with that reel.

 

You should definitely learn to work your thumb but there’s also no shame in letting your reel help out. 
 

EDIT: I actually walked by my old gear and found my first baitcaster, complete with missing tension knob hahah

[JustJames]

It is really depend on the brake system and how light the lure. For magnetic brake I’ll go with more brake but loose spool tensions for lure down to 1/16oz. Centrifugal brake especially on curado 70 and conquest 50, I will use both since those spool are really hard to stop. I set tension to just when I light tug the line and only get a few loose coil. This is only for lure weight 1/4 down to 1/8oz. 

[Bankbeater]

I learned to use a baitcaster back in the late 70's so I use my thumb.

[Teal]

Typically my reels are set fairly low on breaks and I just use my thumb.  A new reel, I'll set the breaks half way.  But it wasnt always easy for me, I had to learn the hard way and ease my self off the breaks.  When its windy, I'll turn the external breaks up a hair if needed.  

 

For me however teaching my son and my godson, how to fish It was more about how to make an accurate cast and loading the rod up with correct weight for the rod.  Once my 10 year learned how to cast with out his lure crashing twenty feet in front of him, using his thumb came more naturally.  For him with light lures, he was over compensating on the motion of casting to make up for the lack of his top tip not loading up well, and it was a disaster.  Little tide bits to think about...

 

Me - minimal to half on breaks, loose tension

 

My son- loose tension, mid to high on breaks helps him. But 

.

[Glaucus]

I keep my reels so loose that I can't let anyone else use them without me tightening them down because I rely on my thumb a lot. My spool tension knob is extremely loose. With proper casting technique and an educated thumb it's the best way in my opinion. So many people try to overhand bomb cast as hard as they can, like they're swinging an axe or something. You don't have to cast hard like that. 

[new2BC4bass]

Reading through your replies I would say I can't offer any advice.  I learned to use a baitcast reel a few years ago at 61.  I will never be able to cast without some brakes.  I feel that a loose spool with brakes adjusted as necessary gives me better distance.  However, I have never tried to prove that.  And highly doubtful I ever will. 

[Bass Junke]

10 hours ago, WRB said:

I am old and learned to drive using a standard shift car with a clutch. My 1st reel was a baitcasting with no free spool or any braking system. You learn to use what you have.

Today's performance cars have paddle shifters using electronic clutch, no more foot peddles. 

Todays baitcasting reels have breaking systems like todays performance cars with paddle shifters. You need to learn to engage a clutch or use your thumb like we did in the past. 

Me, I still use my thumb.

Tom

Still drive a 6 speed manual transmission, never owned an automatic. I learned to cast a baitcaster as a kid but had to learn all over again a few years ago. Minimal to no brakes, all thumb. With me too much brake isn't about distance it's about accuracy, the brakes throw off my accuracy.

[Bankc]

I think it's like shooting a basketball or swinging a golf club.  There's a "proper" way to do it , but if you watch the pros in just about any sport, you'll see they're more likely to develop their own style that they're comfortable with, and master that.  It's more about figuring out how you can be the best you can be, rather than figuring out how it's "supposed" to be done.  There are some bad habits that are best to be avoided.  But they're usually only worth addressing if they're preventing you from being your best.  

 

There's a lot more to casting that just your thumb.  There's the amount of shoulder, elbow, and wrist involved.  There's your release point.  There's the angle you hold the rod, the way you accelerate through the cast, and the follow through.  There's even which hand you cast with!  What works best for you in regards to your thumb will likely be determined both by your gear and the rest of your casting mechanics, as well as what makes you comfortable (habit).  My guess is, a lot of the older guys and gals use a lot more thumb than the younger crowd who grew up with reels with good braking systems.  The reasons being simply that it's how they learned, and what their comfortable with.  Why switch methods if you won't gain anything other than the frustration of learning a new method?

 

 

[Heartland]

Why would you buy a reel with an advanced braking system and just turn it off.   The brakes are there to ensure you can get smooth repeatable casts in a variety of conditions and casting methods.   Learn to use the features of your reel, to ensure repeatable results.   Your thumb will still be needed when a reel is properly adjusted, it just wont be the primary.

[jbrew73]

 Brakes........Brakes......

[SoCalFishingWithCy]

Wow a lot of replies. Thanks guys. What I’ve taken from your posts is that it’s best to choose whatever advances my fishing/casting personally. I have my own style so it wouldn’t make sense to adopt someone else’s style just because it’s looked up to. 
 

And BTW I’ve got three baitcasting reels casitas, revo premier, and Curado 71. I’ve had the first two for a couple years but I just got the Curado and for whatever reason it’s harder for me to control lighter baits even though the reel can cast them farther with the smaller and lighter spool. So the brakes helped a ton since my thumb couldn’t adapt.

 

Also I agree that it doesn’t make sense to buy a reel with a nice braking system and not use it. I don’t wanna let pride keep me from my casting potential 

Edited June 16, 2020 by SoCalFishingWithCy

[Hammer 4]

I'm one of the Old guys. Even though I have today's reels, oldest is a 2017..I tend to use the least amount of brakes I can get away with, usually 2 on..Loose spool tension, and rely heavily on my trained thumb.

Yeah, I'll get a back lash once in a while, nothing major, but I do get the distance I want out of my reels.

 

That's one reason why I like the old Shimano E 7 reels, set it and forget it.

[Boomstick]

22 hours ago, waymont said:

Just get a Tatula SV tw and stop worrying about it. No joke.

Even with my Tatula SVs, the decision of if you want to use your thumb comes into play. Sometimes I'm out in my kayak and I don't need to cast that far, so I'll set it to a place I don't need to thumb, usually around 10. Then sometimes I want extra distance and I'm willing to use my thumb, and I'll lower it as low as 6 depending on my lure or rod. Same largely holds true with my Tatula CT and Tatula 150 as well.

[Linewinder]

I started with reels before there were ball bearings in the affordable ones, and the spool tension knob was used, but I just turned it in enough to keep the spool from rattling around in the bushings left to right (too loose), otherwise distance was sacrificed.  Once I got the just-enough tension, I didn't change it for any lure weight.  When the magnetic controls came I adjusted those for my casting, after setting the spool tension with the magnets on zero.  Nowadays, the spool bearings seem to do a good job keeping the spool from rattling around but I still adjust it once for just enough free fall (not slow), no matter the weight being cast or distance.  Habit.  Am I going to cast as far as you?  No.

 

I also play around with an old Pflueger Supreme direct-drive reel -- you know the kind where the handle spins while casting.  Most times the distance just isn't there but I still don't adjust the spool tension once set, but I do adjust the friction control as needed.  The adjusters are worn out.  That'll teach you how to use a thumb.  But I manage to cast backhanded lower to the surface.  It's not a go to reel, just for funs.

[Linewinder]

18 hours ago, Manifestgtr said:

... I was left with this reel that had god knows what for brakes and literally no spool tension. Now that’s one extreme and I don’t think it’s a particularly good one, to be honest. Not knowing what your gear can help you with is only going to hurt you.
 

...

 

You should definitely learn to work your thumb but there’s also no shame in letting your reel help out. 
 

EDIT: I actually walked by my old gear and found my first baitcaster, complete with missing tension knob hahah

That reel is begging to have a spool tension cap.  Does the spool move much left and right?  Anyway, "Not knowing what your gear can help you with is only going to hurt you" sums up advice very well.  That's why when I need to cast light lures, I'll pick up the spinning rod and not fight with the baitcast reel.

 

[Manifestgtr]

9 hours ago, Linewinder said:

That reel is begging to have a spool tension cap.  Does the spool move much left and right?  Anyway, "Not knowing what your gear can help you with is only going to hurt you" sums up advice very well.  That's why when I need to cast light lures, I'll pick up the spinning rod and not fight with the baitcast reel.

 

Haha yeah, it’s got quite a bit of wobble. It’s retired now though. It did its job many times over back in the day.