Initial Brake Setting Curado DC Re: Hybrid Lines?

[5/0]

Going to be taking out my DC for the first time in a couple weeks and looking for a starting point for the brake system. It will be spoiled with either Yozuri or McCoy Hybrid line.

My question is which setting? Would the characteristics of hybrid line be closer to the #2 setting for mono or #3 for flouro?

 

Thanks....Joe

[Manifestgtr]

I only own the slx dc but it’s essentially the same thing brake-wise. Starting at 4 for a cast or two then backing it up from there is probably the way to go
 

I dont think of the numbers on the idc reels as corresponding to line type (maybe they do...maybe there’s some insane math in there and I’m just not aware of it). In practice, it really is just a matter of the braking profile and amount. When I use mine, I always have it on 2 or 3. I’ll just toggle back and forth with any given bait to see what gives me the best result. 

[Tywithay]

I don't think I've ever switched mine off of 2 with any line.

[FishTank]

I set mine to 2 for most everything and I am using 12lb Invizx.  For whatever reason all of a sudden 3 seams to give me the most issues with FC.   I use 4 for wind and 1 for long casts if the bait is around 1/2oz or heavier. 

[DanielG]

Put it on 2. Then forget the rest of the adjustment that Shimano provides. Put a lure on and adjust the tension knob so that when you give it a shake it drops a foot or so each time. You need to readjust with the changing of lures if they have different weights.

 

When I got my dc a couple of years ago, I did the Shimano method by tightening until the spool didn't have side play in it. Things didn't work well. Then I changed after finding the drop method online and I haven't had a nest in hundreds (thousands??) of casts. I went from considering returning it to it being the a reel I would replace if I lost this one.

[5/0]

14 hours ago, DanielG said:

Put it on 2. Then forget the rest of the adjustment that Shimano provides. Put a lure on and adjust the tension knob so that when you give it a shake it drops a foot or so each time. You need to readjust with the changing of lures if they have different weights.

 

When I got my dc a couple of years ago, I did the Shimano method by tightening until the spool didn't have side play in it. Things didn't work well. Then I changed after finding the drop method online and I haven't had a nest in hundreds (thousands??) of casts. I went from considering returning it to it being the a reel I would replace if I lost this one.

Daniel, Did you find that your tighter than Shimano suggested cast control settings allowed the internal chip to work? I’ve had mine out in the yard a few times using their recommended settings with mixed results.

[DanielG]

1 hour ago, 5/0 said:

Daniel, Did you find that your tighter than Shimano suggested cast control settings allowed the internal chip to work? I’ve had mine out in the yard a few times using their recommended settings with mixed results.

All I can say is that with their one size fits all setting caused occasional backlashes. It has to be adjusted for the weight of the lure. Put something light on it... do the shake thing, and the tension is less so it casts properly Put a heavy crankbait on it and the tension is set tighter using the same method and it casts good. Using this method I've been able to cast little plastics or big wobblers without a single backlash. Of course once I smacked a big bait right in front of me on the water because I pulled the trigger too late but the backlash was still minor. I've got videos on here someplace where I heave overhand as hard as I can big and small baits, over and over again, into the wind with the camera on the spool. My hand and thumbs are down low on the handle. I don't even get any fuzzing.

Now, does the thumb thing really matter if someone uses a standard caster? Not really I guess, but it does to me.