Line for jigs

[DHP]

So I’ve searched a lot on this topic in this forum and on others and I’m hoping for some more specific responses than what I’ve found. 
 

I bought a new jig setup, a 7’4” mh/f with an 8.0:1 reel. I do not want to use fluorocarbon because I hate tying knots with it. And I’ve used braid with leader and I feel like I don’t get good sensitivity with semi-slack line, so I would end up watching my line to detect strikes. I’m starting to go to mono on a lot of my setups and I like maxima ultra green and berkley trilene. I’m looking to use 15# or .015 diameter line. I know a lot of you on here recommend big game but Walmart was out of that so I have a spool of maxima ultra green 15# and a spool of trilene xl in the clear fluorescent blue in 17#, both are .015. I’ve had good experience with the maxima for sensitivity and the color matches my local lakes water very well, but I’ve also had good experiences with the blue trilene xl in 8# fishing the ned rig and liked it for line watching and had no issues in clear water lakes. 
 

My question is will I be handicapping myself using the trilene xl vs the maxima as far as abrasion resistance and strength goes or maybe less sensitivity? Will they be similar being the same diameter? I know maxima is plenty strong, but does the xl’s manageability make it not as strong? 
 

My thoughts are that I can’t go wrong with the maxima but I’d like the ease of line watching with the XL and I could try the XL first since it’s cheaper and go to maxima if I don’t like it but thought I’d ask here first before spooling it up. 
 

Sorry, long-winded, but thanks in advance. 

[Choporoz]

19 minutes ago, DHP said:

I do not want to use fluorocarbon because I hate tying knots with it.

I tried to read the whole post a couple of times, but I have a hard time getting past this.  

 

I know it isn't answering what you're asking...but maybe you're asking the wrong question.

[WRB]

State of the art mono is Sunline Defier. Armillo is Nylon small diameter mono, Defier Shooter is Nylon copolymer small dia mono.

I recommend 22 lb /.015 dia if .015D is your goal, 15 lb test is .013D. Smaller diameter has less coeffient of drag in the water results is better strike detection.

Tom

[Team9nine]

43 minutes ago, DHP said:

My question is will I be handicapping myself using the trilene xl vs the maxima as far as abrasion resistance and strength goes or maybe less sensitivity? Will they be similar being the same diameter? I know maxima is plenty strong, but does the xl’s manageability make it not as strong? 
 

My thoughts are that I can’t go wrong with the maxima but I’d like the ease of line watching with the XL and I could try the XL first since it’s cheaper and go to maxima if I don’t like it but thought I’d ask here first before spooling it up. 

I'd say you'll give up just a little bit of sensitivity and abrasion resistance by going with XL, and probably a little bit of strength, but you'd probably gain in better handling and better visibility with XL. I'd opt for your idea of trying the XL first and see how it goes. If it doesn't seem to be working, then switch out to UG and retry.

[WRB]

I can tell you from more then a decade of experience that 15 lb/ .015 D Maxima UG has very high memory in colder temps.  I stopped using Trilene XT when Big Game came out in the 80's because it has less memory. Trilene XL and XT only differ in diameter per lbs test, XL is about smaller with less abrasion resistance. 14 lb XL is .014D, 14 lb XT is .016D. 15 lb Big Game is .015D.

You want a line with high abrasion resistance, high impact and knot strength that cast good without memory issues. Big Game isn't a small diameter line compared to Armillo, the reason I have changed is equal performance with smaller diameter.

Tom

[Tywithay]

If you want slack line sensitivity, it's pretty much fluorocarbon, then everything else. 

[RoLo]

Quote

My question is will I be handicapping myself using the trilene xl vs the maxima as far as abrasion resistance and strength goes or maybe less sensitivity?

The answer is ‘yes’, but not without qualification.

I’m not aware of any nylon line more manageable than Trilene XL, it’s one sweet line.

However, if the emphasis were on abrasion-resistance and tensile strength,

then I’d go with Sufix Siege, sadly, we can’t have it both ways.

 

Quote

I know maxima is plenty strong,

Maxima Ultragreen has a reputation for being rough & tumble, but Maxima is guilty

of false advertising. Maxima 10-lb Ultragreen is advertised as being .012” in diameter,

but its actual diameter is .014”. A 17% difference in diameter is not something

you can explain away with room temperature or faulty micrometer feel.

On the other hand, Sufix 10-lb Siege is advertised as having a .012” diameter,

and that’s precisely what it measures. Based on true diameter versus true diameter,

Sufix 10-lb Siege is 17% stronger than Maxima 10-lb Ultragreen.

 

Roger

[WRB]

The problem measuring round line that isn't perfectly round as most extruded line. Using micrometers or calipers are only 2 sided. It's what we have and don't carry around die sets or optical equipment. 

Not trying to sound like a Sunline advertisement but Super Natural mono is good and better IMO then XL and less expensive. I wouldn't recommend XL or Super Natural for jigs use. When the Japanese advertise line dia is XYZ it's accurate and round.

Tom

[Tywithay]

51 minutes ago, RoLo said:

The answer is ‘yes’, but not without qualification.

I’m not aware of any nylon line more manageable than Trilene XL, it’s one sweet line.

However, if the emphasis were on abrasion-resistance and tensile strength,

then I’d go with Sufix Siege, sadly, we can’t have it both ways.

 

Maxima Ultragreen has a reputation for being rough & tumble, but Maxima is guilty

of false advertising. Maxima 10-lb Ultragreen is advertised as being .012” in diameter,

but its actual diameter is .014”. A 17% difference in diameter is not something

you can explain away with room temperature or faulty micrometer feel.

On the other hand, Sufix 10-lb Siege is advertised as having a .012” diameter,

and that’s precisely what it measures. Based on true diameter versus true diameter,

Sufix 10-lb Siege is 17% stronger than Maxima 10-lb Ultragreen.

 

Roger

Did you test actual breaking strength, or just the 10lb listed on the box? The 10lb Maxima is closer to 17lb actual breaking strength. Suppose that's why people assume it's so strong. I wish lines were sold by diameter instead of some arbitrary number, but as you pointed out, even the diameters are often incorrect. 

[dodgeguy]

2 hours ago, DHP said:

So I’ve searched a lot on this topic in this forum and on others and I’m hoping for some more specific responses than what I’ve found. 
 

I bought a new jig setup, a 7’4” mh/f with an 8.0:1 reel. I do not want to use fluorocarbon because I hate tying knots with it. And I’ve used braid with leader and I feel like I don’t get good sensitivity with semi-slack line, so I would end up watching my line to detect strikes. I’m starting to go to mono on a lot of my setups and I like maxima ultra green and berkley trilene. I’m looking to use 15# or .015 diameter line. I know a lot of you on here recommend big game but Walmart was out of that so I have a spool of maxima ultra green 15# and a spool of trilene xl in the clear fluorescent blue in 17#, both are .015. I’ve had good experience with the maxima for sensitivity and the color matches my local lakes water very well, but I’ve also had good experiences with the blue trilene xl in 8# fishing the ned rig and liked it for line watching and had no issues in clear water lakes. 
 

My question is will I be handicapping myself using the trilene xl vs the maxima as far as abrasion resistance and strength goes or maybe less sensitivity? Will they be similar being the same diameter? I know maxima is plenty strong, but does the xl’s manageability make it not as strong? 
 

My thoughts are that I can’t go wrong with the maxima but I’d like the ease of line watching with the XL and I could try the XL first since it’s cheaper and go to maxima if I don’t like it but thought I’d ask here first before spooling it up. 
 

Sorry, long-winded, but thanks in advance. 

So solve all your issues and try Sufix Advance Mono. It's a COPOLYMER with a lot less stretch and excellent abrasion resistance. Handles really well on casting gear.Comes in clear and green.

Edited June 8, 2020 by dodgeguy

[RoLo]

20 hours ago, Tywithay said:

Did you test actual breaking strength, or just the 10lb listed on the box? The 10lb Maxima is closer to 17lb actual breaking strength. Suppose that's why people assume it's so strong. I wish lines were sold by diameter instead of some arbitrary number, but as you pointed out, even the diameters are often incorrect. 

 

No, I didn't test the breaking strengths of the lines.

As a retired tool & die maker, I've plenty access to micrometers, but not break-strength

apparatus beyond reproach. I'd like someone to test the break strengths,

I strongly encourage it, and welcome the results.

 

Roger

 

[GTN-NY]

I’ve always used and loved big game 20 pound clear line for my jig fishing. Very good abrasion, sensitivity, line watching capabilities.  If you use the green I wouldn’t think you’d be able to watch the line very well. 

[DHP]

Thanks everyone for the replies so far. I actually enjoy these kind of conversations on here. I’ve read lots of threads on here about the best lines for jigs and I realize that the options I have probably aren’t the best, and everyone has everyone has different preferences. But I know I’ve read multiple times here where people swear by big game for jigs and then other threads comparing big game to the 2 lines that I’m asking about. I chose these lines because they are easy to get at Walmart and fairly inexpensive. I mainly wanted to hear everyone’s opinions on these specific lines for this specific technique for comparison purposes. 
 

What really makes fluorocarbon better than mono, in some’s opinion, when I read in some threads that fluorocarbon stretches, has poor knot strength, the clearness isn’t required etc.?  Is Big Game better than the 2 I asked about or a good compromise or what? When someone like Catt swears by Big Game for jigs is he relying on line watching for detecting strikes or is the line really just as sensitive as anything else? 
 

I’m just picking 15# as a middle ground based on recommendations from various threads on this subject and the .015 diameter seems like a good comparison for different lines. I could honestly get by with 12-14# for sure but didn’t want to be too light in certain situations. I realize that different line brand’s ratings are not always accurate and is why I went with the same diameter in both. 

 

 

[Cgrinder]

Sensitivity is subjective and with lower end to midrange gear, I don't think line choice matters so much. Big Game's fine. I'm straight fluoro outside of frogging, punching, and topwater, so I'm not a lotta help when it comes to nylon.

 

Going to throw my two cents in: I've been using fluorocarbon in some capacity for around six years. I've used cheap and expensive lines from multiple brands. In that time, I have popped exactly one knot that I wasn't intentionally trying to break. In practical fishing situations, I believe the knot strength complaints are overblown and many stem from folks who are unwilling or unaware that you have to use certain knots and apply some form of lubrication during the tying process (if I get COVID, it will be from slobbering all over my knots). Sure, line conditioner is pretty much mandatory, but I use that stuff on nylon and copolymer as well. You'd be amazed how well CXX behaves after its been soaked with a little Line n Lure. I imagine it would be super good on something like Maxima.

[NorthernBasser]

There's 3 steps to jig fishing:

 

1) Get some 16# Sunline Sniper fluoro.

 

2) Learn the San Diego Jam knot (super easy).

 

3) Catch lots of fish.

 

 

[Catt]

9 hours ago, DHP said:

When someone like Catt swears by Big Game for jigs is he relying on line watching for detecting strikes or is the line really just as sensitive as anything else? 

 

I night fish a lot so most of the time I cannot watch my line.

 

When talking "sensitivity" everyone wants to talk rods & lines. I firmly believe that a huge portion of "sensitivity" depends on whose hands are holding the rod & whose brain is interpreting what's being felt.

 

There's a lot of false information about monofilament & stretch. 

 

One of two things has to happen before "stretch" can occur.

 

When one end the line is attached to an immovable object & something is pulling on the other end stretch occurs. That bass is not an immovable object!

 

When pressure (pulling) is applied to both ends of the line stretch occurs. When a bass inhales my jig off the bottom no stretch is occurring.

 

You listen to some talk its like monofilament stretches all by itself.

 

When big Momma makes a dive for the bottom I want some line stretch, some rod flex, & if necessary some drag slippage.

 

Rant over ?

[Manifestgtr]

I’ve only ever used two lines for jig fishing

 

Straight big game for years...worked like a charm.

 

Max quatro 65lb to big game when I made the switch over to braid to leader...or just straight braid. 
 

I’m trying to think back and in all honesty, I don’t remember straight mono being any more or less sensitive with a slack line. I’m sure it was a little more sensitive but it hasn’t been a super dramatic change or anything. What I HAVE noticed is that braid’s limpness allows me to see line jumps much more obviously. Where I used to watch loops on the surface, I’m now watching a straight line of braid and when something touches the jig, the entire thing goes “tap tap” in the surface film. So that’s been a welcome benefit.
 

I dunno man...I wouldn’t lose sleep over line choice here. I caught fish just fine with both setups. The only line I don’t have an opinion on is fluorocarbon. I’ve just never been able to make it work for me. 

[scaleface]

For jigs and Texas rigs I use 17 lb test Trilene XL clear blue fluorescent . It is only .15"  thick and I can "see it" . I  like Big Game but I have difficulty seeing it .

[Todd2]

20 minutes ago, scaleface said:

For jigs and Texas rigs I use 17 lb test Trilene XL clear blue fluorescent . It is only .15"  thick and I can "see it" . I  like Big Game but I have difficulty seeing it .

That XL does light up blue, even more than Stren's. BG has a steel blue but I haven't tried it yet. 

[DHP]

4 hours ago, Catt said:

 

I night fish a lot so most of the time I cannot watch my line.

 

When talking "sensitivity" everyone wants to talk rods & lines. I firmly believe that a huge portion of "sensitivity" depends on whose hands are holding the rod & whose brain is interpreting what's being felt.

 

There's a lot of false information about monofilament & stretch. 

 

One of two things has to happen before "stretch" can occur.

 

When one end the line is attached to an immovable object & something is pulling on the other end stretch occurs. That bass is not an immovable object!

 

When pressure (pulling) is applied to both ends of the line stretch occurs. When a bass inhales my jig off the bottom no stretch is occurring.

 

You listen to some talk its like monofilament stretches all by itself.

 

When big Momma makes a dive for the bottom I want some line stretch, some rod flex, & if necessary some drag slippage.

 

Rant over ?

Thanks Catt for the response. 
 

 

3 hours ago, Manifestgtr said:

I’ve only ever used two lines for jig fishing

 

Straight big game for years...worked like a charm.

 

Max quatro 65lb to big game when I made the switch over to braid to leader...or just straight braid. 
 

I’m trying to think back and in all honesty, I don’t remember straight mono being any more or less sensitive with a slack line. I’m sure it was a little more sensitive but it hasn’t been a super dramatic change or anything. What I HAVE noticed is that braid’s limpness allows me to see line jumps much more obviously. Where I used to watch loops on the surface, I’m now watching a straight line of braid and when something touches the jig, the entire thing goes “tap tap” in the surface film. So that’s been a welcome benefit.
 

I dunno man...I wouldn’t lose sleep over line choice here. I caught fish just fine with both setups. The only line I don’t have an opinion on is fluorocarbon. I’ve just never been able to make it work for me. 

I’m not losing any sleep over this, I’m pretty much set on what I’m going to do, which is start with the XL and see how it goes, just wanted to know what I would have to expect based on others experience who fish a lot more and have tried a variety of lines. I wasn’t sure how the XL would compare to the Big Game being the same advertised diameter even though it’s rated 2# test higher. I knew when asking this that Big Game would be sufficient but it wasn’t available without ordering and the line visibility of the XL seemed like a good thing to try. 
 

Thanks again for all the responses and interesting dialogue on the subject. At some point I’ll have to give the various lines suggested here a try. 
 

 

 

1 hour ago, scaleface said:

For jigs and Texas rigs I use 17 lb test Trilene XL clear blue fluorescent . It is only .15"  thick and I can "see it" . I  like Big Game but I have difficulty seeing it .

You were the one that gave me the idea to try it so thanks for chiming in.