Super User cart7t Posted February 19, 2009 Super User Posted February 19, 2009 This is my little squirt boat I bought last May and fixed up. It's 12 footer with a 36" wide bottom. The question I have for aluminum boat guys is this. I'm thinking about adding some side sponsons made of .063 sheet aluminum. Each sheet would be approx 48" long and approx. 12" wide. I would bend the aluminum at approximately 90 degrees right in the middle and bolt it to the side of the boat. This would give me approximately 6" of flat surface extending out from the boat on both sides at the waterline which technically would widen the boat by 12". I realize I may have to have the front leading edge raised slightly higher than the back to keep this new "side fin" from digging into the water when the boat is underway at higher speeds when I'm moving from spot to spot but I'm wondering what anyone's thoughts are or if someone has done something like this differently to gain more stability with a narrower boat. BTW, getting a bigger boat isn't an option right now. Quote
fishizzle Posted February 19, 2009 Posted February 19, 2009 My friend has a boat like yours--old 12'er and 2 adults can't stand without that fall over feeling. I have a 9' Grumman 1996 semi v hull that is very stable. I don't need to worry about stabilizing myself when my buddy casts or moves suddenly. I will not buy another alum row boat without a water test first for stability. What about dock buoys extended out like a catamaran on a rod? Quote
quanjig Posted February 19, 2009 Posted February 19, 2009 I can see 1 problem right away. Have you thought about redecking the front so that instead of the deck being on top of the gunnals and putting your deck slightly below them. I have a mod v 14 footer and my decks are slightly below the gunnals front and back. It's a little narrow boat and it's not so tippy. Good luck. Quote
Super User cart7t Posted February 19, 2009 Author Super User Posted February 19, 2009 The deck on the front only holds the TM. The actual floor I put in is only about 3" above the bottom. I'm really trying to avoid any sort of out rigger deal. Quote
rfunfarm Posted February 20, 2009 Posted February 20, 2009 Friend of mine solved his problem this way. He bolted a 8' piece of PVC pipe on each side. About 8ft long each. Capped each pipe. The added stability is amazing. He then removed the benches & installed pedestal seats so that you can walk all the way around on the floor. The floor is covered between the bows with a thick industrial floor mat of rubber. This contraption is a very stable & comfy boat to fish from. Quote
Super User firefightn15 Posted February 20, 2009 Super User Posted February 20, 2009 Cart7, you gonna have this done by the beginning of April, I might have some questions. By chance last week I bought a 12" aluminum that's gonna be for local no wake lakes I've been wanting to hit. Kind of in the same boat, so to speak. I'll be watching this thread and maybe hittin' ya up for some ideas. I want to do a rear deck, front deck w/bow mount, open in the middle setup. Want to keep it light so I can throw it in the back of the pick up. Keeping it light will be the challenge. Quote
Super User cart7t Posted February 20, 2009 Author Super User Posted February 20, 2009 Cart7, you gonna have this done by the beginning of April, I might have some questions. By chance last week I bought a 12" aluminum that's gonna be for local no wake lakes I've been wanting to hit. Kind of in the same boat, so to speak. I'll be watching this thread and maybe hittin' ya up for some ideas. I want to do a rear deck, front deck w/bow mount, open in the middle setup. Want to keep it light so I can throw it in the back of the pick up. Keeping it light will be the challenge. This boat was light until I added the floor, TM front deck, TM and a battery. It would be far too heavy to put into a pickup without assistance either at home or at the lake. Friend of mine solved his problem this way. He bolted a 8' piece of PVC pipe on each side. About 8ft long each. Capped each pipe. The added stability is amazing. He then removed the benches & installed pedestal seats so that you can walk all the way around on the floor. The floor is covered between the bows with a thick industrial floor mat of rubber. This contraption is a very stable & comfy boat to fish from. This was my first idea though I was thinking about 6" pvc. How exactly did he bolt the pvc pipe to the boat? My concern is not having bolt holes drilled below the waterline. Quote
rfunfarm Posted February 20, 2009 Posted February 20, 2009 Two brackets per " pontoon" going up to top rail on side of boat. The brackets are slide adjustable so he can change length to fit boat load. He has marks on slides that make it quick to change from 1 man to 2 man boat as to weight. Quote
Super User BrianinMD Posted February 21, 2009 Super User Posted February 21, 2009 would be interested to see pictures of the pvc install. sounds like something that may do wonders for my little 14ft jon Quote
backpain... Posted February 28, 2009 Posted February 28, 2009 Personally, I would try to sell it and put the money toward a larger boat. In the end you would be much happier. Quote
Super User Way2slow Posted February 28, 2009 Super User Posted February 28, 2009 A few years ago I bought one like that, mainly for the 9.9 motor that was on it. When I picked it up, I took the motor off the boat, the boat off the trailer, told him he could keep the boat, and I went home with the motor and trailer. I wanted nothing to do with the boat. Quote
CGH Posted March 3, 2009 Posted March 3, 2009 This might be an easy build. I'm about to start the process of making the same out of 4 inch or 6 inch (10 foot long each side) PVC for my canoe and if they work well I'll do the same for the 1432, with shorter out rigger arms. hardest part so far has been the cross member metal type & design Quote
CGH Posted March 3, 2009 Posted March 3, 2009 Here is the Design that I am working on right now. Just not sure of what type of metal to use. Stainless steel, Aluminum, or Iron covered to stop galvanic corrosion on the 1432 and on the canoe. On the canoe and the jon they will be 9 1/2 feet on both sides Quote
Super User cart7t Posted March 3, 2009 Author Super User Posted March 3, 2009 Interesting. I've bought some of the material for mine. I'm using 1/4" aluminum bar stock. I'm not 100% sure how this will go. What are you making those outrigger pontoons out of? Quote
Super User cart7t Posted March 3, 2009 Author Super User Posted March 3, 2009 Personally, I would try to sell it and put the money toward a larger boat. In the end you would be much happier. I have a bigger boat... In fact I'm in the middle of a resto on it and that's where most of my money is going. Quote
CGH Posted March 9, 2009 Posted March 9, 2009 Interesting. I've bought some of the material for mine. I'm using 1/4" aluminum bar stock. I'm not 100% sure how this will go. What are you making those outrigger pontoons out of? PVC Thin wall with Caps at both ends Quote
backpain... Posted March 9, 2009 Posted March 9, 2009 Personally, I would try to sell it and put the money toward a larger boat. In the end you would be much happier. I have a bigger boat... In fact I'm in the middle of a resto on it and that's where most of my money is going. I was talking about a slightly larger "tin" boat You can get great deals on flat bottomed puddle jumpers for less than 300$ in alot of cases including a trailer. It is just a 12" boat (ecpecially one with a v) is going to be somewhat tippy. Quote
Sharkbite Posted March 10, 2009 Posted March 10, 2009 Friend of mine solved his problem this way. He bolted a 8' piece of PVC pipe on each side. About 8ft long each. Capped each pipe. The added stability is amazing. He then removed the benches & installed pedestal seats so that you can walk all the way around on the floor. The floor is covered between the bows with a thick industrial floor mat of rubber. This contraption is a very stable & comfy boat to fish from. Di he bolt the PVC directly to the boat or did he use a brace to exstend it? Quote
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