Daiwa TDZ

[David Dionne]

Got a couple beloved 103ML’s and one of them is making noise on retrieve.  So far I’ve replaced every bearing except “45 B86-1702 - Ball Bearing C”.

 

I cant get at that bearing because I stripped the philips screw “70 E13-4503 - Drive Shaft RET Screw A” trying to get it out.  It wouldn’t budge.  And the only video I could find that went this far into a TDZ wasn’t in English, and while they did spend time talking about and pointing at this exact screw, they skipped over its removal...which leaves me wondering if it’s reverse threaded.

 

Any reel junkies out there, what are my options?

 

Heres the schematic...

https://www.daiwa.com/us/service/manuals/image/baitcasting/TD-Z103ML.pdf

Thanks

[MountainMan83]

Ahh, that's what they call the "death screw". Its not reverse threaded, they just used loctite and it can be a pain. They should never use a Phillip's head in these reels to begin with. 

 

I had a stripped one in a Sol I picked up recently. I ended up having to drill it out. Came out clean with no damage to the frame threads. 

 

The Tackle Trap used to carry replacement screws but I don't see them on their site. Contact them or Daiwa USA.

 

[Cgrinder]

Yep. Death screw indeed. A sharp, #1 Phillips has a chance. I bought a Wiha set primarily for that screw. Soft screw with red Loctite; what could go wrong?

[slowworm]

Is it really a Phillips head, or is it a JIS screw?  JIS looks like a Philips, but the point geometry is different.

 

I have a set of JIS screwdrivers for working on camera gear and lenses.  With Daiwa being Japanese I have to wonder...

[David Dionne]

Thx for the replies guys.  Never heard of a jis, but I do know none of my Phillips fit well.

 

Its stripped quite bad now, I guess I could try to drill it out, but I don’t want to do that.  Any other ideas?
 

I did replace a couple bearings so I just reassembled it last night.  I’m almost positive it won’t be fixed but I’ll try it later today...and disassemble it again tonite.

[.ghoti.]

Easy out if you have a small soldering iron. Get the screw good and hot, and it come out even if the head is partially stripped. When the screw is hot and a philips screwdriver doesnt work, grab a small straight diver that will fit in what’s left of the head.

[Jeff H]

I use a file on my phillips tip to fit it perfect.  Heat tip with small torch, press into screw head and let heat sink in for few minutes before trying to remove. Works for me every time!

 

Didn't think of the soldering iron idea. I like that too.

[slowworm]

17 hours ago, David Dionne said:

Thx for the replies guys.  Never heard of a jis, but I do know none of my Phillips fit well.

Then I’m sure it’s a jis screw.

 

http://jisscrewdriver.com Has the details.  A philips not fitting well and cramming out is telling for me.

 

j.

[NOC 1]

23 hours ago, David Dionne said:

Thx for the replies guys.  Never heard of a jis, but I do know none of my Phillips fit well.

 

 

Most people don't know about them. They are not used outside of Japan as far as I've ever seen. Looks like a Phillips, but cams out....most likely a jis. (A Reed and Prince will do the same thing, but I highly doubt that you would ever see anything like that on a Japanese fishing reel.)

[David Dionne]

I will try a heated straight blade tomorrow.

 

THANK YOU so much, to all, for the guidance.

[David Dionne]

Here tiz...

 

 

[David Dionne]

U guys are the best!

 

TTHHAANNKKK YYOOUUU

 

Now I don’t have replacement screw, but I will order one when I can.

 

For the time being though, am I safe to reuse this screw?  I want to believe they used loctite for good reason, is that true, in others opinions?

[J Francho]

On 5/31/2020 at 8:42 AM, slowworm said:

Then I’m sure it’s a jis screw.

It's not.  It's a standard #0 Phillips.  I've removed and replaced 100s of them.  As @.ghoti. posted, heat it up if you can't get it out.  I like Wiha or Wera tools.

 

19 minutes ago, David Dionne said:

Now I don’t have replacement screw, but I will order one when I can.

Nice job getting the stripped head out!  Definitely order this part, you don't want to use anything other than OE for this.  I reseat the screws with Loctite blue.

[David Dionne]

Thx Francho, u wouldn’t happen to know where I could order one do u?  Do u scrap out the red thread lock or just apply a dab of the blue and replace?

 

I think it’s “E13-4503” but I’m not sure.

[David Dionne]

I think I found it on Mikes Reel repair site...ordered a few, hope it’s the right one.

 

thx again to everyone

[J Francho]

Mike's is in Canada, FYI.  I usually order straight from Daiwa.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

I don’t see the need for loc-tite on that screw but it’s not going to hurt if you use blue. 

[JoeDrums]

I'm bringing this thread back from the dead just a little, but I am going to be on topic a bit. I have an eBay sourced TDZ 103h, and it's my first one so I'd like to present an issue and see if it's related to that shaft bearing.

 

   While the spool free spins great, and everything is pretty dang smooth on a normal retrieve motion, there seems to be an issue. Once I give the handle a good free spin, the handle moves well at high speed for a few seconds, then sort of abruptly slows and stops. When it slows and stops, it's accompanied by a slight geary/rough feeling. The previous owner cleaned serviced this reel before shipping it, and when I did the carbontex swap it looked good to my uneducated eyes. Are the symptoms I'm experiencing on the free spin of the handle, related to an issue with the "ball bearing c" you mentioned or could it be a number of other things?

 

Sorry if I should have created a new post. I just felt you guys are already on point with this reel and the topic was relative enough. Thank you for any help.

[iabass8]

The abrupt stopping isnt common and also isnt that serious On an issue. I still have a couple TDZ in rotation and could strip these things down to a spring with my eyes closed. What you can do is loosen the drag And see of it gets better. If it does, its either the drag stack or the small felt washer that sits between the main gear and the white plastic lvlwind gear. Also, make sure theres that thin washer under the drag clicker on top of the bearing that sits on top of the AR bearing. Its there to make sure theres clearance between the bearing and clicker. If its not there and you tighten the drag, you cam feel resistance. Start there. 

[iabass8]

All my steez, zillions , tdz, alphas have long handle spin times. Non of them come to an abrupt stop. Just a slow down after quite a few revolutions. 

[JoeDrums]

Awesome, guys. Thank you for the timely responses, and great info as always. This site has been extremely helpful in making tackle purchases and getting the information regarding the tackle I'm interested in.

 

The washer between click plate and AR bearing is there, and the drag adjustment yielded no changes in the spin. I'll check out that felt washer you mentioned. The reel fishes great, but this is my first venture in to the TD-Z. I just wanted to be sure it wasn't an issue that may cause avoidable or premature wear to any internal components. I have much to learn and also much to appreciate about this platform in the future.

 

The handle on my only OG Zillion spins very free and smooth, when compared to the TD Fuego or TD-Z.   Each of these reels are the first ones I have owned from these platforms, so I'm still getting to know them. Over time I  hope to learn all I need, to build and maintain an arsenal of more TD-Z's and Zillions to come.  

 

Cheers!