Stuck Lug Nuts "Update"

[CFFF 1.5]

The lug nuts on my trailer seem to be permanentely attached. I have tried multiple things to get the nuts off and I haven't been able to even budge the nut. I need to get them off so I can change the hubs.

Things I have tried.

4 way

3/8" Socket wrench - Busted the Wrench

Heated the nut with a propane torch and applied PB Blaster

My breaker bar isn't big enough to fit over the 4 way but i'm going to try to find one that will fit over it. Do any of you have any other Ideas to help me get these nuts off. I can't take it anywhere until I get the title so I can get the boat registered.

[Way2slow]

First off, a 3/8" drive in anything is going to be too small.  As a minimum you need a good, long 1/2" drive breaker bar and a good six point socket, possibly a short extension but none of this made in China stuff.  If just the breaker bar won't break them, put a 3' section of pipe on it so you can get serious.    

If it's where you can tow it, just take it to a tire shop and let them put their impact on it.  My IR will take them off with no problems,  they are either going to screw off it break off, but they will come off.

[bilgerat]

A word of caution - After you get the wheels off, have the studs replaced (along with new lug nuts). It sounds like someone has overtorqued the nuts, likely stretching and weakening the studs. There is a chance they could fail, causing wheel loss.

Lug nuts can be installed with an impact gun, but it's easy for someone to go crazy with an air gun and over tighten the lugs. They should be tightened with hand tools so you can get them off later.

[CFFF 1.5]

I went and bought a 20" 4 way and I was able to turn the lugs but, because the hub is so rusted when I turn the nuts it is just turning the whole bolt I believe I didn't have anybody watching the hub side of the bolts. I really just want to get everything off so I can replace the hubs. I can't tow the boat anywhere because I can't get the boat registered until I get the title from the previous owner. Is there any way I can just get the whole thing off so I can replace the hubs and leaf springs.

[bilgerat]

If it is just an axle and a simple hub (no brakes) maybe you could remove the whole wheel / hub assembly by removing the cap at the center of the hub, then remove the cotter pin and axle nut. Then the whole thing should come off.

Good time to inspect and or replace the wheel bearings and grease seal.

[CFFF 1.5]

I will try doing that tomorrow. I wasn't sure if that was possible. I plan on replaceing the whole unit.

[bilgerat]

Post back if you are not familiar with installing the hub - as in the correct way to set the axle nut.  I'll be back online tomorrow.

[CFFF 1.5]

Yeah I have absolutely no idea what I am doing. I have never done anything like but I am pretty handy and I feel this shouldn't be too hard.

[bilgerat]

Rather than try to explain it, I Googled "trailer wheel bearing installation" and came up with this. It's actually a fairly simple job. Yell back if you have troubles.

http://sierranevadaairstreams.org/owners-guide/maintaining/bearings/index.html

[CFFF 1.5]

Thanks man I appreciate it. I got the hub off with the wheel still attached, but at least it is a start. I am going to take the wheels to a mechanic tomorrow to see if I can get the lugs off or at least cut the bolts off so I can reuse the rims.

Question: where is the best place to buy tires for the trailer.

[cart7t]

I'd check craigslist first.

I just picked up 4 Goodyear marathons with over 90% tread left for $100.  Quite a deal.  

[drmnbig]

Tractor Supply Company has trailer tires about as cheap as they get.

[CFFF 1.5]

I just dropped the tires off at my mechanic and he said oh yeah they will come right off with the impact wrench...nope they wouldn't even budge, well one did but it was just spinning in the hub. He is going to cut the bolts off.

I'll check craigslist and tractor supply. I'm starting to get really excited. As long as there are no other unforseen problems, the boat and trailer should be water ready this Friday. Need to replace the hubs and leaf springs and few other easy things and she will be ready to go.

[fishfordollars]

Torque the new studs and bolts at 100 ft. lbs. I had new wheels put on my trailer at Discount Tire last week and asked them what the correct torque specs were.

[CFFF 1.5]

Yeah I'll make sure I torque them to the correct specs. I checked tractor supply tonight for tires and hubs, man are they expensive, they wanted almost $50 for 4.80-12 LRC tires and $51 for one hub. That is ridiculous. My wal-mart doesn't have any in stock but they only charge $30 for the same tire and will mount them for $5.

[bilgerat]

Since you are going to a lot of trouble to get this trailer roadworthy, spend a few extra bucks on a small jar of "never seize" , some people call it "anti seize".

It's a silver paste sold in auto parts stores in the chemical aisle. When applied to studs and bolts, it prevents corrosion. It lasts for years. It will be helpful especially if your trailer wheels get submerged while putting your boat in the water.